[N0OS3]

I'm having to inch my car home a bit at a time right now - this sucks. Im also out of warranty... onto the point though...

My orange temp alarm came on shortly followed by a red high temp alarm. Oil reads fine and the only coolant that came out was overflow from the boiling temp.
Other threads all point to the water pump failed... i want to get other people's view on this first though before i go and drop $360 on a new water pump.

[Snyperx]

JUST had this happen this morning. At the dealer right now (typing at the dealer). $1100 for pump and thermostat. It IS the pump. How many miles? I am at 79k miles, dealer stated that is a bit early for the pump to go but not uncommon.

[obert]

Buy and replace the pump and thermostat

[Snyperx]

Originally Posted by obert

But and replace these pump and thermostat

Huh? Might want to retype that.

[sibhusky]

I experienced the exact same symptoms on my friends 06 325i who had 82k. Ended up being the water pump but replaced both the thermostat and pump. Also when the pump goes out, you wont notice any heat coming out of the vents when set to hot, the coolant reservoir will also be super low.

[Snyperx]

Originally Posted by sibhusky

I experienced the exact same symptoms on my friends 06 325i who had 82k. Ended up being the water pump but replaced both the thermostat and pump. Also when the pump goes out, you wont notice any heat coming out of the vents when set to hot, the coolant reservoir will also be super low.

Yes,yes, and yes. I experienced all of the above. I actually had heat from my vents for a bit (trying to pull heat from the block while I got to the dealer), but just as I got to the dealer no heat.

[obert]

Originally Posted by Snyperx

Huh? Might want to retype that.

Sorry about that

[Johnny D]

This is why you have good insurance...get the car towed home or to a shop.

[N0OS3]

i think im going to get the parts myself... i found a new oem water pump for $360 and lookin for a thermostat now... can u make a claim lime this through insurance though? i figured this would be a warranty thing (if i had a third party warranty)

[Snyperx]

Originally Posted by Johnny D

This is why you have good insurance...get the car towed home or to a shop.

Not sure what insurance you have, but mine doesn't cover break/fix stuff with my car. Only accident related stuff.

[Johnny D]

Originally Posted by N0OS3

i think im going to get the parts myself... i found a new oem water pump for $360 and lookin for a thermostat now... can u make a claim lime this through insurance though? i figured this would be a warranty thing (if i had a third party warranty)

Originally Posted by Snyperx

Not sure what insurance you have, but mine doesn't cover break/fix stuff with my car. Only accident related stuff.

Insurance for towing you goobers. No sense in driving the car if its broken.

[Snyperx]

Originally Posted by Johnny D

Insurance for towing you goobers. No sense in driving the car if its broken.

I was less than 2 miles from the dealer. I let the car cool down and drove it in under 50 mph.

[N0OS3]

well, i went ahead and ordered the water pump and thermostat... cost me $440 for both (at least they are brand new). I was going to buy a brand new set of LCI halogens but i think getting the car to be able to drive takes priority...

[2ndname]

It's about right, 80K. Should be good for another 80K before you need to change it again.

[N0OS3]

Originally Posted by 2ndname

It's about right, 80K. Should be good for another 80K before you need to change it again.

:/ i'm at 76,250 right now... i got a close-by bimmer pal (drives e90 325i) at 84k with no water pump failure so far... i told him to start putting money aside right now for it, cuz he's due for it lol

[Cir14]

Originally Posted by Snyperx

Yes,yes, and yes. I experienced all of the above. I actually had heat from my vents for a bit (trying to pull heat from the block while I got to the dealer), but just as I got to the dealer no heat.

Same thing happened to me. I actually had a low coolant light ~4 months prior to the water pump failure. Topped it off and it was OK for 4 months then it finally gave out. Best of Luck though

[2ndname]

Originally Posted by Cir14

Same thing happened to me. I actually had a low coolant light ~4 months prior to the water pump failure. Topped it off and it was OK for 4 months then it finally gave out. Best of Luck though

LOL, dude...that happened to be 1 week before my water pump literally assploded!

This is the way I see it...any issues you have with your car at around 80K, just bet that it's due to the sh*tty water pump and thermostat combo.

Originally Posted by N0OS3

:/ i'm at 76,250 right now... i got a close-by bimmer pal (drives e90 325i) at 84k with no water pump failure so far... i told him to start putting money aside right now for it, cuz he's due for it lol

Keep us posted. I really think these water pumps are basically time bombs.

[Snyperx]

I opted for the dealer to do it. Yeah it cost me $1200 for the pump and stat, but it comes with a 2 year unlimited mileage warranty on the work. I little bit of piece of mind if you ask me.

[N0OS3]

Originally Posted by 2ndname

Keep us posted. I really think these water pumps are basically time bombs.

I plan on doing the work myself, i might try and put together a DIY based on the procedures outlined in my Bentley Publishers RM. Looks like it's just a plug-n-play replacement...

[Casca]

Originally Posted by sibhusky

I experienced the exact same symptoms on my friends 06 325i who had 82k. Ended up being the water pump but replaced both the thermostat and pump. Also when the pump goes out, you wont notice any heat coming out of the vents when set to hot, the coolant reservoir will also be super low.

Any reasoning why there would also be low coolant? I wouldn't think the pump going out would cause it to loose coolant. However I can see low heat output since water isn't flowing anymore.

Was just driving to the gym when I noticed very low heat output from my vents. Cranked it up and it was better, but I was pretty sure it degraded to cooler within 5 minutes...so was pretty sure something is wrong. Enough reason for me to miss a workout, darn it. Drove it back home (@2 miles) and by then there was very little heat even with it fully cranked to hot. I do have 107k miles on the original pump so it is about that time, but I was hoping to make it through the holidays before shelling out for the parts.

There was no indication from the carputer that anything is wrong. I checked for evidence of coolant leak and found nothing. It was raining yesterday and a little wet today, but no wetness on the bottom of the engine bays covers...really dry looking actually and no coolant smell at all. Haven't checked coolant level as the enginewas just shut off.

Wondering if I can still drive it if coolant was low and adding more corrects the low heat output from the vents? I mean....maybe low heat output could be a different problem. Trying to find info on it for now. Don't want to do a water pump t-stat change right now and not even fix the problem that I have.

[LittleBlue]

Hello, I have a 2006 325i sedan that I just had the water pump, therm and flush done at the dealer, needless to say it wasn't cheap. To my surprise, when I got home I noticed on my invoice that the water pump is a 'remaufactured' part. I have also read somewhere on here I can't find now where, but read that BMW redesigned the pumps a couple of times since the intitial part put on the car due to the fact that they are prone to going out at any time. Does anyone know if the remanufactured part would have the redesigned ( better ) parts in it, or did I just get shafted ? does anyone have the orginial part number and the successors? I am really puzzled as to why a BMW dealer ship would install a remanufactured part vs new! Please help before I go back to them.

[Casca]

Checked my coolant level, it was a little lower from @7 months ago when I put new coolant in....just above the low line. Would assume the car burped some more. Read somewhere else about a rotary wheel control in the center of the dash with blue on one side and red on the other that can affect the heat from the vents. I had it in blue (cool). Turned it to red, drove around and now heat from the vents seem fine. Turned it to blue and got a lot less heat same as before.

What I don't understand is, I am positive that switch has always been in the cool position and my heater has worked great till yesterday. This is not the first winter that I have had this car either.

Edit: Even with that rotary wheel in the red position, the heat still feels too low. Usually 67f feels warm to me and that was with the rotary wheel in the blue. Now, with rotary wheel in red, it doesn't really feel warm till I dial it up to 77f. Ambient temperature is almost always @60 now for a while. Cooling system doesn't seem to have a problem keeping the coolant temp. @90c for easy driving/idle. No fault codes, but I am going to go ahead and assume the waterpump is only capable of low flow now and is on its way out. Car's staying in the garage till I replace the pump and t-stat.