[justalilbit]

So I finally received my BT adapter for use with the Carly app. I wanted to code some things such as side mirrors folding when locked/unlocked, 5 click turn signals up from 3, angel eye brightness + welcome light brightness. I already had LUX 160, but I'm quite fond of the gold during the day and the contrast with the xenon bulb at night; I put my stock AE bulbs back in for this procedure.

So I did some research. The DRL voltage was set to "rather high", and I turned it up to "high". For reference, I believe the scale goes off/very low/low/medium/rather high/high/very high. I'm just concerned about melting things. Has anybody run the AEs on a higher voltage for a lengthy period of time? (months, years?) Again my biggest concern is safety. If it's too risky I'll put the voltage back down. (But the AEs look incredible even slightly higher voltage, I'll post some pics)

[justalilbit]

Here are some comparison pics, LUX 160 (always at max brightness) vs stock turned up to (high). I didn't try Very High because it was already bright enough that you couldn't look directly at it for long.

[E90 335xi]

Originally Posted by justalilbit

So I finally received my BT adapter for use with the Carly app. I wanted to code some things such as side mirrors folding when locked/unlocked, 5 click turn signals up from 3, angel eye brightness + welcome light brightness. I already had LUX 160, but I'm quite fond of the gold during the day and the contrast with the xenon bulb at night; I put my stock AE bulbs back in for this procedure.

So I did some research. The DRL voltage was set to "rather high", and I turned it up to "high". For reference, I believe the scale goes off/very low/low/medium/rather high/high/very high. I'm just concerned about melting things. Has anybody run the AEs on a higher voltage for a lengthy period of time? (months, years?) Again my biggest concern is safety. If it's too risky I'll put the voltage back down. (But the AEs look incredible even slightly higher voltage, I'll post some pics)

I just had mine set to the highest setting at all times, regardless of whether the headlights are on or not. Only been a few weeks though but no issues so far.

Stock bulbs are replaced with the Arc Angel H8 bulbs (see BMS site) so it's brighter than stock. They almost look LED-ish from head on, but from the side not quite.

I was wondering too if that could be an issue with heat but I don't think the HIDs create that much heat, and the factory H8 rings are on full brightness when the HIDs are off from the factory so with that reasoning, I'm hoping it will be ok.

[selectaj]

Originally Posted by justalilbit

Here are some comparison pics, LUX 160 (always at max brightness) vs stock turned up to (high). I didn't try Very High because it was already bright enough that you couldn't look directly at it for long.

Just piggybacking off the pics.....excuse me i'm new to the bimmer world but i have that stock look in the last two pics where the halos look yellow. My question is in order to get that clean white look in the first 2 pics what do i need? Is it a bulb that i can purchase which in turn makes the halos look white instead of that yellow color??

[Masry335i]

Originally Posted by selectaj

Just piggybacking off the pics.....excuse me i'm new to the bimmer world but i have that stock look in the last two pics where the halos look yellow. My question is in order to get that clean white look in the first 2 pics what do i need? Is it a bulb that i can purchase which in turn makes the halos look white instead of that yellow color??

That yellow look you're experiencing is from the Pre Lci Bimmers that use halogen H8 bulbs and produce the genuine halogen color. In order to get that clean white look you need to use after market LED bulbs. Companies like LUX and a few others make them. Granted they arent cheap. Stock halogen bulbs is about 20$ each, The LED look is 200$ for a pair of bulbs. Don't go HID route as it yellows the fibres in the angel eye glass. So, its just an easy bulb change, not difficult to change. Ive seen people go ebay route. I might even try ebay aswell.

[Nordic335M3]

I have pre LCI angels too, and the Carly 2.gen adapter / app, I have turned voltage check off and tried various setting with the DRL, but I get the error code from the angel eyes regardless...?... yes I could get the expensive replacements instead of the cheap LEDs i have now, but I was just wondering about this , if anyone have succesfully coded the error check off ..?

[perezr10]

I could be wrong but I thought I'd read that in the E series cars the iCarly voltage setting was irrelevant and no matter what setting you chose the lights were at the same brightness.

[justalilbit]

Originally Posted by Masry335i

That yellow look you're experiencing is from the Pre Lci Bimmers that use halogen H8 bulbs and produce the genuine halogen color. In order to get that clean white look you need to use after market LED bulbs. Companies like LUX and a few others make them. Granted they arent cheap. Stock halogen bulbs is about 20$ each, The LED look is 200$ for a pair of bulbs. Don't go HID route as it yellows the fibres in the angel eye glass. So, its just an easy bulb change, not difficult to change. Ive seen people go ebay route. I might even try ebay aswell.

Do you think slightly higher voltage on the stock H8 would yellow the glass optic tubes? The reason I switched back to halogen was even though LUX are bright, the outer ring is invisible during the day unless directly in front of the car from 20ft due to it being the same color as daylight.

Originally Posted by perezr10

I could be wrong but I thought I'd read that in the E series cars the iCarly voltage setting was irrelevant and no matter what setting you chose the lights were at the same brightness.

It absolutely works man. At least with the most modern H8 optical system. I can vouch for you that turning the voltage up increased the brightness noticeably.

[AWDBooSTIn90]

These are really good for the money.
http://www.highperformancebulbs.com/...-e88-html.html

I have the same ones but the V1 40w version. Same design with heatsink and fan. Ive tried ebay Led AE, lux AE, and a few other brands. The HighPerformanceBulbs.com angle eye leds have alsoways worked the best for me. They also have excellent customer service and warranty. I had a bad dome light led when i got it. Amd they sent me two new ones overnight to not delay my installation. Cant get better than that.

I also plan on getting the other leds in the future. So far i have AE Leds, glove box, trunk, mpa lights, door puddle lights, and footwell lights, all in that 6000k white led color. I love it. Makes it look like a newer car over the black leather and black carpet.

EDIT: Heres the other LED angel eye bulbs they offer:
http://www.highperformancebulbs.com/...-upgrades.html

-Make sure to click on either E90 or E92 accordingly.

The E90 (sedan) uses a special type of bulb/bulb holder that you must choose from the list specifically, while the pre-lci E92 (coupe) uses a classic H8 bulb.

Im not too familiar with the icarly app, but when i coded AE voltage on my early build '07 E92 with a NFRM, i had to to code the voltage using the the NETTODATA method. Not hard, just need to read up on it and take your time.

I still haven't taken the time to make my AE's not dim while the xenons are on. Its on my list of things to do. I was more worried about coding out the PWM volatage output on the fog-lights causing my new H8 HID 6000k 35w hids to not work properly when the csr was running, weird i know. But you need to change the voltage from a PWM maintained 12.7 volts to 16 volts which basically just feeds the foglights full battery voltage without the voltage fluctuations of PWM, which dont affect regular halogen bulbs because of the nature of filament bulbs.

[LuxAngelEyes]

Just so you know, coding will not have any impact on the LUX H8 160 angel eyes. They are designed to run at full power all the time

[justalilbit]

Originally Posted by LuxAngelEyes

Just so you know, coding will not have any impact on the LUX H8 160 angel eyes. They are designed to run at full power all the time

Yup, I decided to switch back to the 160s and set the voltage back to stock. White looks cleaner and I was paranoid about the heat of increasing voltage to the stock bulb.