[Gamma6]

Background: Car lowered on coil-overs, with Varrstoen ES1 wheels with M3 offsets.

Problem: Had a very aggressive wheel set up with spacers in the rear. Caused major camber/toe wear. Replaced rear tires, got rid of spacers and installed adjustable toe arms. Got an alignment and removed toe and still ran max camber in the rear, -3*, and -1.5* (i think) up front. The tech doing the alignment noticed both front tires had the inner sidewalls had a huge bulge. Replaced them and went back for an alignment and the tech noticed the steering wheel shake while braking. Once he had it on the alignment rack, he mentioned I had bad bushings. And that it would be a waste of our time to align it. He advised me to fix the "bushings" first. I have no clue what bushings he was talking about. I got used to the steering wheel shake and forgot about that issue. As of late, I have replaced the rear tires twice due to sidewall bulge. On this current set, my driver side goes flat every other day and probably has a sidewall bulge. And my passenger side has some camber wear along with some feathering. I have replaced the rear tires with cheap tires both times assuming that the sidewall bulge was due to the cheap tire.
I do get a slight vibration at 62mph exactly.

Soo... Could all these problems be related?
The steering wheel shake while applying the brake, slight vibration at 62mph, and the weird, to me, sidewall bulge and tire feathering on rear tires???

I have searched the steering wheel shaking be resolved with the thrust arm (upper control arm) but I am not sure if it will resolve all the issues. I would like to fix all the suspension issues together to avoid doing multiple alignments. Please help...

[feuer]

Rear:
too much negative camber (-3) and toe that is not close to 0.05 will cause excessive tire wear.(bad bushings as well)
Both the rim and the tire and not designed to perform at their best when rolling mostly on inner portion.
Rims get easily bent and cracked because there isn't spokes on the inner part to make them physically sturdier.
Tires, especially asymmetrical, have softer inner and stiffer outer sidewalls for better cornering.
So you rolling on the inner portion mostly, will cause them to wear out quick and because the sidewall is not as strong to support all the weight they will develop bulges, particularly when they are worn out already because that further weakens the tire.
Front:
Steering wheel vibrations and brake pulsation are 2 separate issues.
They might be related meaning: one is by-product from the other that was ignored for a while.
1)If you wheels are bent, or out of balance the car will vibrate at speed and you ignore the issue long enough it will mess up your brakes, wheel bearing, tie rods, control arms and steering shaft u-joint.
2)If your brakes were pulsating and you once again ignore it it will mess up wheel bearing, tie rods, control arms and steering shaft u-joint.

So, to fix the rear issue is easy: get alignment that is whit in specs to prevent excessive tire wear.

To fix the issue on the front you will have to probably replace few parts since you tend to ignore the problems.
Start with:
-inspect the front wheels, make sure they are straight and balanced good.
-inspect the wheel hub for run off and rust and derbies
-inspect the bearings for play
-inspect the control arm bushings, ball joints and the tie rod ends
-inspect the rotors for run off and uneven brake pad deposit
-inspect the brake carrier/caliper guide sliding pins and bushings
-inspect the caliper piston seals

Good luck!

[Gamma6]

Thanks feuer!
My last alignment had all the toe taken out and left the camber at said specs due to the aggressive fitment.
I am going to jack up the car and inspect all mentioned line items and see what needs replacing.