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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
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Help, drivetrain vibration gets me crazy!
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05-26-2018, 02:49 PM | #23 |
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Road force balance is much more precise than a regular spin balance machine. Operator also makes a difference.
I keep coming back to... vibrations started about 100 miles after a brake job... I've read about pad deposits on rotors causing vibrations, could also be rust/debris on the hub/rotor surfaces causing the rotor to not seat properly. Are both of your wheel sets hub-centric? If not, and using a plastic ring, one of those could have broken. |
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05-26-2018, 03:42 PM | #24 |
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If the problem started after the rear disc and pad replacement, I would tend to focus it in that area.
While speeding up, and when the vibration first started, do you first feel it in the steering wheel or in the seat? If the latter I would focus in the rear wheel area. And stepping on the brakes you never felt vibration in the pedal? I agree that road force balancing also depends on the operator. |
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05-27-2018, 04:45 AM | #25 |
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Problem started after rear brake job but dont know if its just coincidence. My though is if brakes will cause the problem, there should be vibration under braking also.
Tires were balanced with roadforce machine from Hunter several times, when vibrations appeared I was on winter wheels, the problem stayed also after mounting the summer wheels. So I exclude tyres rims from the equation. I had in the past bent rim or unbalanced tires and know how it feels. The vibration I have is high frequency ( possible 3d order). The driveshaft was swapped including the center bearing , no change. |
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05-27-2018, 04:52 AM | #26 | |
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I cant tell if its rear or front. Brake pedal does not vibrate when braking from high speed. Workshop mounted vibration sensors on each axle and driveshaft, and it did not show anything, which is honestly dissapointing. |
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05-27-2018, 08:36 AM | #27 |
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i had an issue once where i lost rim counterweights trying to remove the wheel for a brake job on the rear.. i know u said you have balanced them but it maybe was never done right..
What I would do : There are alot of apps that you can download that can record the phones accelerometer data. Todays accelerometers are very sensitive 16 bit data resolution.. So download an app. Go for a drive on the exact strech of road with you current set up for like maybe 2 km. Switch up to 3 gears. Keep the phone in the same location in the car. Then move the tires around in such a way that you can make 4 distinct recordings. Analyze the vibrations to see if there is a pattern with the tire rotation. That will tell you if your tires and rims are causing this vibration. This experiment should be free.. |
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05-30-2018, 04:54 AM | #29 |
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I have staggered setup but the tires dont have direction arrows. Anyway the issue is the same on the square winter setup.
I will probably pay for the NVH app as the next step to see if that helps. Its something loose in the drivetrain I guess. BTW can a differential cause vibrations? |
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05-30-2018, 11:32 AM | #30 | |
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Not a couple weeks or months later... |
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05-30-2018, 07:04 PM | #31 |
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I know you've had the wheels balanced multiple times, but listen to my recent experience. I picked up a 2001 Toyota Avalon from my parents for my son. They had it since new. They had recently bought new tires. On the way home I noticed a shimmy so I immediately thought either wheels out of balance, needs alignment or maybe a bent wheel. I lifted the car and none of the wheels were bent at all so I took it to Les Schwab. All of the wheels were out of balance, the fronts were WAY out. Even though the tires only had about 3,000 miles. The tech could only conclude that someone had done a horrible job balancing them or their equipment had a problem. Shimmy is gone.
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05-31-2018, 04:09 PM | #32 |
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I think the vibration comes from the front axle, its either control arms or end links. I have the M3 control arms and I have the feeling they pick up all the roads imperfections and that feels like running over rumble strips.
I bought my lift and will install it soon so I ca lift the car up and see what the hell is wrong. Can a pair og bad end links create vibrations? |
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06-01-2018, 08:12 AM | #33 | |
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06-01-2018, 10:19 PM | #34 | |
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06-02-2018, 12:54 PM | #35 |
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Yeah I am not confident in those mechanics anymore. I will take the car to a local indy next week that works only with bmw to get their opinion
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06-03-2018, 02:30 PM | #38 |
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Yeah but its not shaking only the steering wheel. The whole car is shaking.
I had the famous shake when braking and its completely different to what I have now. |
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06-03-2018, 03:34 PM | #39 |
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That was why I asked if the shaking started at the seat. When the whole car shakes it is hard.
Does the steering vibration lessen if you step on the brakes? If so may be wheel bearings. Is the steering rack mount bushings in good shape? |
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07-09-2018, 10:27 PM | #40 |
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By all estimates, I have the very same problem. 2006 330xi automatic tranny 145,000 miles. Started humming about 10k miles ago, getting louder with every thousand miles. It's a vibration / rumble / droning noise that's speed dependent. It's not a whining sound, but more of a rumble or pulsation. It is a very low pitched rumbling drone 10-25 mph, at 25-35 mph its sort of a whu-whu-whu-whu vibration, and at higher speeds it sort of sounds like my motor is just loud. Highway speeds it's a pulsating vibration you can feel through the whole vehicle, but not a crazy vibration that shakes things around. It does barely make things like the headrests wobble a tiny bit at the same frequency as the vibration when at highway speeds. It changes pitch, not volume, only with an increase in wheel speed. It sounds like the source is the rear passenger side of the vehicle. It is completely speed dependent, not drive-train load or steering/cornering dependent, and the vibration doesn't change pitch OR volume with shifting into neutral at ANY speed. I've swapped tires around, changed the rear passenger wheel bearing twice (put it in backwards the first time - both seals were black/dark grey with no markings to indicate installation direction), and I've lifted the car in the air and put in drive, going slowly from 0-60mph and and back, and it makes the EXACT same sound as when it's on the road. The differential makes a clicking sound when I turn the rear wheels/axles by hand, so I was thinking this may be the cause. However, I've just learned that this clicking may be normal. No one is torching my car.
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12-28-2018, 04:01 PM | #41 |
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Fast forward, I still have the issue and never found out where the vibration comes from.
I actually noticed that during cruise at highway speeds its not that noticeable. When accelerating for example when going uphil on highway or overtaking the rumble is more pronounced. That will indicate driveshaft or driveaxles but both were replaced without any effect. I have only left to replace the control arms (there is no play in them) and differential. I am sick and tired of this car and want to get rid of it ASAP, since we expect baby next year. |
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12-30-2018, 04:01 PM | #42 |
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Did you by any chance check/adjust the parking brake? I made the mistake once of setting my parking brake to tight after completing work on the rear brakes. This caused the parking brake shoe to constantly rub the rotor. Suddenly on the highway the whole car began to shake exactly as you describe. After safely getting home the whole wheel was hot due to friction. I never noticed the brake was set to tight before this. I could be stretching here but it may be a possibility
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01-02-2019, 10:13 AM | #43 |
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I have checked the parking brake and its not coming from there, I had a thermal camera measuring temperature on each wheel and its not getting hot. So I dont know what is causing it , but it feels like driving on small rumble strips constantly also at low speed.
I suspect control arms transmitting road imperfections , but there is no play in them. |
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01-02-2019, 12:45 PM | #44 | |
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