Oil On Rear Turbo Inlet Pipe, PCV Related?

Jeller · 09-16-2012, 07:26 PM

Doing some maintenance on the car this week (53K on the car now) and noticed a small amout of oil on the rear turbo where the rear turbo inlet pipe slides on the turbo. I can assume that is is from the PCV system as it connects to the rear turbo. I took apart the PCV system, and I have a couple questions... (found this pic for reference)

-The left side of the pipe above has the flapper valve in it but also has like a small bypass hole in it. So when I do blow into it, the valve does close but "some air" can still bypass around the flapper via this small hole. I am correct in assuming that this is supposed to function this way?

-On the right side there is a "heater element" ? The plug of this had some oily residue on it, very small amount. Does this part only work durning cold conditions? What is its intended purpose? And is there anyway to check that it is functioning properly? Could this be the cause of my oil issue?

I have also been reading up on the check valve the RB is offering as an upgrade/replacement part found here: http://www.n54tech.com/forums/showth...light=advanced

I removed the factory check valve and it was moving freely, I pressure tested it and it does seem to leak a bit, but thats with about 20psi pusing through it from my compressor.

I know I should probably get an oil catch can to help this issue, but I also have to question why/how the oil is now getting there in the first place, not just what method to use to collect it instead.

Thanks for any insight

Chris

JamesM3M5 · 09-17-2012, 11:02 AM

Oil will always get through into the rear turbo. The PCV has oil separators inside the valve cover to get most of it out before the gasses get pulled into the rear turbo, but there will always be oil vapor that condenses back to liquid. Some oil is OK. If your PCV is functioning properly (sounds like it is), I would not add an OCC. The BMS is the only good one out there, but it's still a band-aid for a bad PCV (something wrong under the VC or bad pipe you have pictured), IMHO.

Really good oil such as Motul 5W40 X-cess or Castrol Edge will vaporize less than many other synthetics (Group III crap, including BMW oil). Make sure you use oil that has ACEA A3 certification, not A1/A5. It should be clearly labeled on the bottle except for Motul 300V and other "race" oils which are not specifically sent to the ACEA for certification.

JamesM3M5 · 09-17-2012, 11:16 AM

Just pulled that valve from a defective VC I have lying around. This valve leaks slightly if you just blow on it with your mouth - maybe a 1/2 - 1 psi max. It's clean, too. The RB upgrade will definitely help if you have higher than normal boost.

I cleaned my intake 9/2011, been running meth since 11/2011. I am planning to pull my intake to see how bad it gets in a year. There was noticeable wet oil running a few of my intake ports, the rest were caked with dry carbon. I also cleaned the oil weep off the rear turbo inlet. I have not replaced any parts, but I also ran about 9000 miles from my first oil change with only about 1/2 quart consumption and lots of hard driving.

Jeller · 09-17-2012, 12:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JamesM3M5

Oil will always get through into the rear turbo. The PCV has oil separators inside the valve cover to get most of it out before the gasses get pulled into the rear turbo, but there will always be oil vapor that condenses back to liquid. Some oil is OK. If your PCV is functioning properly (sounds like it is), I would not add an OCC. The BMS is the only good one out there, but it's still a band-aid for a bad PCV (something wrong under the VC or bad pipe you have pictured), IMHO.

Really good oil such as Motul 5W40 X-cess or Castrol Edge will vaporize less than many other synthetics (Group III crap, including BMW oil). Make sure you use oil that has ACEA A3 certification, not A1/A5. It should be clearly labeled on the bottle except for Motul 300V and other "race" oils which are not specifically sent to the ACEA for certification.

I dont really want to add an OCC but maybe forced to, the PCV parts all seem to be functing well, I may update with the RB check valve for good measure. Either that or the only other thing I have not invesigated yet is the valve cover itself. I have not been able to find a pic of the valve cover on the inside/its baffle system? Valve cover is a bit pricey too, really dont want to take a shot in the dark on that one.
I am running the castrol edge oil now. I have not done an intake valve cleaning yet, but should over the winter time considering the cars mileage.

Thanks for your response.

Chris

King mode · 09-17-2012, 02:05 PM

Completely normal...

Jeller · 09-17-2012, 06:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by King mode

Completely normal...

Thanks, I don't really know how long it has taken to accumulate there, was just curious to see of other owners have anything like this or any tell tale signs of a failing part in particular.

Jeller

King mode · 09-17-2012, 06:33 PM

Yeah you should be fine. And I don't believe anyone with a n54 minus maybe single turbo setups actually need occ's. Good luck with it!

09-16-2012, 07:26 PM	#1
Jeller Lieutenant 15 Rep 506 Posts Drives: 2007 335i E90 ZSP Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Buffalo NY iTrader: (5)	Oil On Rear Turbo Inlet Pipe, PCV Related? Doing some maintenance on the car this week (53K on the car now) and noticed a small amout of oil on the rear turbo where the rear turbo inlet pipe slides on the turbo. I can assume that is is from the PCV system as it connects to the rear turbo. I took apart the PCV system, and I have a couple questions... (found this pic for reference) -The left side of the pipe above has the flapper valve in it but also has like a small bypass hole in it. So when I do blow into it, the valve does close but "some air" can still bypass around the flapper via this small hole. I am correct in assuming that this is supposed to function this way? -On the right side there is a "heater element" ? The plug of this had some oily residue on it, very small amount. Does this part only work durning cold conditions? What is its intended purpose? And is there anyway to check that it is functioning properly? Could this be the cause of my oil issue? I have also been reading up on the check valve the RB is offering as an upgrade/replacement part found here: http://www.n54tech.com/forums/showth...light=advanced I removed the factory check valve and it was moving freely, I pressure tested it and it does seem to leak a bit, but thats with about 20psi pusing through it from my compressor. I know I should probably get an oil catch can to help this issue, but I also have to question why/how the oil is now getting there in the first place, not just what method to use to collect it instead. Thanks for any insight Chris
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09-17-2012, 11:02 AM	#2
JamesM3M5 Some dude 91 Rep 1,780 Posts Drives: E92 335i Join Date: Sep 2011 Location: Northern VA iTrader: (0)	Oil will always get through into the rear turbo. The PCV has oil separators inside the valve cover to get most of it out before the gasses get pulled into the rear turbo, but there will always be oil vapor that condenses back to liquid. Some oil is OK. If your PCV is functioning properly (sounds like it is), I would not add an OCC. The BMS is the only good one out there, but it's still a band-aid for a bad PCV (something wrong under the VC or bad pipe you have pictured), IMHO. Really good oil such as Motul 5W40 X-cess or Castrol Edge will vaporize less than many other synthetics (Group III crap, including BMW oil). Make sure you use oil that has ACEA A3 certification, not A1/A5. It should be clearly labeled on the bottle except for Motul 300V and other "race" oils which are not specifically sent to the ACEA for certification. __________________ RRT E92 335i/6MT with stuff and things
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09-17-2012, 11:16 AM	#3
JamesM3M5 Some dude 91 Rep 1,780 Posts Drives: E92 335i Join Date: Sep 2011 Location: Northern VA iTrader: (0)	Just pulled that valve from a defective VC I have lying around. This valve leaks slightly if you just blow on it with your mouth - maybe a 1/2 - 1 psi max. It's clean, too. The RB upgrade will definitely help if you have higher than normal boost. I cleaned my intake 9/2011, been running meth since 11/2011. I am planning to pull my intake to see how bad it gets in a year. There was noticeable wet oil running a few of my intake ports, the rest were caked with dry carbon. I also cleaned the oil weep off the rear turbo inlet. I have not replaced any parts, but I also ran about 9000 miles from my first oil change with only about 1/2 quart consumption and lots of hard driving. __________________ RRT E92 335i/6MT with stuff and things
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09-17-2012, 02:05 PM	#5
King mode First Lieutenant 8 Rep 374 Posts Drives: 335xi Join Date: May 2012 Location: Denver iTrader: (0)	Completely normal... __________________ 2008 335xi AT Cobb AP stage 1, drop in filter, the rest stock 13.10@106.01 w/ 1.86 60' (5,800' altitude)
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09-17-2012, 06:33 PM	#7
King mode First Lieutenant 8 Rep 374 Posts Drives: 335xi Join Date: May 2012 Location: Denver iTrader: (0)	Yeah you should be fine. And I don't believe anyone with a n54 minus maybe single turbo setups actually need occ's. Good luck with it! __________________ 2008 335xi AT Cobb AP stage 1, drop in filter, the rest stock 13.10@106.01 w/ 1.86 60' (5,800' altitude)
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