[kevinM1971]

http://postimage.org/gallery/4et4r2xe/

I need some advise on buying new ones if these are bad

[jzxi]

They look fine for used. Use plastigage to determine if they are still in spec(probably are). Make sure they go back in the same journal they came out of! Why do you have them out?

cheers
jz

[mike-y]

yeah, that's normal wear

[EQUANT]

I'd put new ones in. It's not like you change your crankshaft everyday.

[kevinM1971]

Originally Posted by jzxi

They look fine for used. Use plastigage to determine if they are still in spec(probably are). Make sure they go back in the same journal they came out of! Why do you have them out?

cheers
jz

I'm getting a tick/knocking sound when engine is heated, sort of like a lifter problem. I changed all 24 lifter valve and spark plugs, dealer can't solve my problem they think it's piston slap but I checked it, moves freely no hooks

[jzxi]

Bearings are cheap usually just replace them(again plastigauge with the new bearings). Use a bore indicator to determine if the cylinders are still in spec, measure the pistons and ring gaps. Any other issues other than the noise, oil consumption etc?.

cheers
jz

[#Tee]

The bearings looks like normal wear, if youre goona use new bearings find the right color code plastigauge to measure oil tolerance. Running a thicker oil should help with the knocking.

[kevinM1971]

Originally Posted by jzxi

Bearings are cheap usually just replace them(again plastigauge with the new bearings). Use a bore indicator to determine if the cylinders are still in spec, measure the pistons and ring gaps. Any other issues other than the noise, oil consumption etc?.

cheers
jz

Maybe this video will help, I have engine on ground anything I should check?
http://videobam.com/cAWnq

[kevinM1971]

Originally Posted by ~XxTeexX~

The bearings looks like normal wear, if youre goona use new bearings find the right color code plastigauge to measure oil tolerance. Running a thicker oil should help with the knocking.

Thicker oil only helps for a few minutes then noise starts. When engine is cold, no noise then when it starts to get hotter noise starts, then gets louder as engine is heated. Oil pump is fine, no leaks, car only has 20k miles, and pistons look new

[#Tee]

Drive the car til its in closed loop once the knocking develops pull disconnect a plug wire/coil plug one by one. Locate the cylinder thats causing the knocking, this may help diagnosing the related cause. Also keep an eye out for exh leaks, they also make the same ticking/knocking sound.

[kevinM1971]

Originally Posted by ~XxTeexX~

Drive the car til its in closed loop once the knocking develops pull disconnect a plug wire/coil plug one by one. Locate the cylinder thats causing the knocking, this may help diagnosing the related cause. Also keep an eye out for exh leaks, they also make the same ticking/knocking sound.

Did all that before I even changed all spark plugs, and all 24 hydraulic valves, car doesn't misfire. When it's knocking and I turn it off and turn it back on, no noise then a minute later it starts again. RPMs goes to around 1400 when I start it then slowly goes down to around 500 then jumps to 800-900 then goes back down, sometimes it will fluctuate between 300-400 and whole car shakes, and I have to gas it so it stops, and then it will turn off.

[G-Bus]

Bad ground maybe? ECM ground check all of those...

[kevinM1971]

Originally Posted by G-Bus

Bad ground maybe? ECM ground check all of those...

Don't think anything like that. I had a quiet ticking noise, *thought it was lifters* I was driving in the night, went like around 90s for like 50 miles then suddenly I smelled a burning oil type smell, and then I hear a loud ticking/knocking sound like in video, I was paying toll at same time too and since I was between the toll booths the sound was more enclosed, pulled over, checked around, no more burning smell, then continued to drive like 80 miles more home with sound. Next day, stripped out engine started diagnosing.

[theblackmamba]

Might be of some help"

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=767464

[G-Bus]

Originally Posted by kevinM1971

Don't think anything like that. I had a quiet ticking noise, *taught it was lifters* I was driving in the night, went like around 90s for like 50 miles then suddenly I smelled a burning oil type smell, and then I hear a loud ticking/knocking sound like in video, I was paying toll at same time too and since I was between the toll booths the sound was more enclosed, pulled over, checked around, no more burning smell, then continued to drive like 80 miles more home with sound. Next day, stripped out engine started diagnosing.

Car never missed oil right?! It's really weird. Did it pull the same? Other than the sound, any other symptoms?

[kevinM1971]

Originally Posted by G-Bus

Car never missed oil right?! It's really weird. Did it pull the same? Other than the sound, any other symptoms?

Out of 3 well experienced mechanic (15+ years) I know, 2 of them said oil pump, basically oil related problems, other one said if bearings has a little scratch it will cause the noise, dealer said I have piston slap. Engine only has 20k miles so I doubt piston slap, anyways I have new bearings and their not cheap $400+ for 6 sets. I'll change them tomorrow and see what happens.

[jzxi]

Originally Posted by kevinM1971

Out of 3 well experienced mechanic (15+ years) I know, 2 of them said oil pump, basically oil related problems, other one said if bearings has a little scratch it will cause the noise, dealer said I have piston slap. Engine only has 20k miles so I doubt piston slap, anyways I have new bearings and their not cheap $400+ for 6 sets. I'll change them tomorrow and see what happens.

Ouch! those are spendy. If you have the engine torn apart, definately take the time to measure and check everything. Be scientific and methodical. If it is a base engine concern it will show up with proper diag. Did you put a mechanical oil pressure gauge on it before disassembly? DO not scatter gun parts at it, unless of course money is no object, which at that point do a proper over-haul.

Manufacturers can and do make errors so 20k miles means nothing. I have been in the industry for 20+ years and have seen some real sub-standard sh*t show up under warranty. I rebuilt an ISC this summer after a "rebuilt" injector failed, over fueled and melted a piston within 10k miles of install. Did another one this year that suffered from constant dpf plugging and poor performance since new. Middle ring gap on three pistons was three times specification. I could go on and on....Diagnosis is cheaper in the long run than random parts changing. Fix it right the first time!

cheers
jz

[G-Bus]

Originally Posted by kevinM1971

Out of 3 well experienced mechanic (15+ years) I know, 2 of them said oil pump, basically oil related problems, other one said if bearings has a little scratch it will cause the noise, dealer said I have piston slap. Engine only has 20k miles so I doubt piston slap, anyways I have new bearings and their not cheap $400+ for 6 sets. I'll change them tomorrow and see what happens.

I have had a oil pump fail me on a previous car (Jetta TDI) and the damage was huge; pistons melted with the block.

If there would have been pressure loss, enough for the engine to start knocking, you would have had a signal telling you that on your dashboard, I think. But this also points to be oil related some how. Since you're there, change the oil pump, just to be sure.

[kevinM1971]

Originally Posted by G-Bus

I have had a oil pump fail me on a previous car (Jetta TDI) and the damage was huge; pistons melted with the block.

If there would have been pressure loss, enough for the engine to start knocking, you would have had a signal telling you that on your dashboard, I think. But this also points to be oil related some how. Since you're there, change the oil pump, just to be sure.

Car is tripping now, I'm hearing all kind of noises now. Oil pump is losing pressure around the nut. $400 for a new one