[bender rodriguez]

So I just got back from the dealer.. A great guy there has been working on retrofiting my bluetooth. He thought he could just change the VO and it would be no problem. Turns out I have a rare model that requires a TCU and MULF for bluetooth to work..

So I have two options buy a TCU to piggyback with MULF or a combox..

Thinking about going used with both routes.

[snoozee]

Originally Posted by Mr.Ritz

So I just got back from the dealer.. A great guy there has been working on retrofiting my bluetooth. He thought he could just change the VO and it would be no problem. Turns out I have a rare model that requires a TCU and MULF for bluetooth to work..

So I have two options buy a TCU to piggyback with MULF or a combox..

Thinking about going used with both routes.

bluetooth works with EITHER the TCU or MULF.
you can have both in a car but you DO NOT need both to get bluetooth working. whoever told you that do not know what he's talking about.

you can read the links below to find out more about the TCU and MULF (ULF)
http://www.bmw-planet.com/diagrams/r...840037-K07.htm
http://www.bmw-planet.com/diagrams/r...840061-K07.htm
http://www.bmw-planet.com/diagrams/r...840036-K07.htm

[alexwhittemore]

Ahh, see, you've run into the exact coding issue I mentioned. You DO only have to code the VO, but you also probably need to do a full vehicle SG_RESET job if that doesn't take (You might get away with only resetting the radio and MULF)

[bender rodriguez]

Well I don't know what to do.. Every shop in town has said no to messing with this now. I started to call out of town to an autologic place. They wanted 105.00 dollars to tell me they could do it and then 120.00 to program it.. So even if they cant do it they were still going to charge me.

[alexwhittemore]

If you want to buy a cable I can try remote coding it for you. Not the easiest thing in the world, but we can probably work it out.

[bender rodriguez]

Originally Posted by alexwhittemore

If you want to buy a cable I can try remote coding it for you. Not the easiest thing in the world, but we can probably work it out.

I am looking for a K-DCAN that ships from us that is proven to work and trying to track down a 32bit version of windows. All I have is 64bit.. I am going to give it a try my self.. But if I can't get it to work I can paypal money to you remote in

[ctuna]

You can upgrade to Win 7 pro and get XP mode

I think after you update the VO in both the modules that require it. You still have to code the radio as in code the RAD or 2urad file and go in an set individual options in that file in
some cases.

You can upgrade to Win 7 pro and get XP mode
The only program that won't work in 64 bit mode is NCSexpert.
I got a Kcan cable from ebay from some European Source that had
the three base programs inpa ebidas and ncsexpert plus DIS57 and
SSS, TIS bundled. The thing is it wasn't very uptodate version of the three base programs and they make you set up the other two programs in Vmware.
I got DIS57 working which is kind of worth it because it gives you a one step diagnostics and will read all the BMW Codes and BMW shadow codes.
I could not get SSS running as it said it wouldn't take anything but and icom cable this is pretty common. I think I payed 50 bucks shipped for the setup.
Also you can get a win7 pro upgrade for about 60 bucks . All this stuff takes
a lot of disk space and DIS57 and SSS run real slow even on a fast computer.

All the cars before 2010 have bluetooth and most other options in separate hardware modules that vary by model year. If you have to spend money on those modules you are probably better off buying a Dension gateway 500s BT that will give you Ipod , usb , bluetooth phone and Bluetooth music streaming .

[bender rodriguez]

Originally Posted by ctuna

You can upgrade to Win 7 pro and get XP mode

I think after you update the VO in both the modules that require it. You still have to code the radio as in code the RAD or 2urad file and go in an set individual options in that file in
some cases.

You can upgrade to Win 7 pro and get XP mode
The only program that won't work in 64 bit mode is NCSexpert.
I got a Kcan cable from ebay from some European Source that had
the three base programs inpa ebidas and ncsexpert plus DIS57 and
SSS, TIS bundled. The thing is it wasn't very uptodate version of the three base programs and they make you set up the other two programs in Vmware.
I got DIS57 working which is kind of worth it because it gives you a one step diagnostics and will read all the BMW Codes and BMW shadow codes.
I could not get SSS running as it said it wouldn't take anything but and icom cable this is pretty common. I think I payed 50 bucks shipped for the setup.
Also you can get a win7 pro upgrade for about 60 bucks . All this stuff takes
a lot of disk space and DIS57 and SSS run real slow even on a fast computer.

All the cars before 2010 have bluetooth and most other options in separate hardware modules that vary by model year. If you have to spend money on those modules you are probably better off buying a Dension gateway 500s BT that will give you Ipod , usb , bluetooth phone and Bluetooth music streaming .

I already have the module that counts.. The one with usb/ipod intergration and bluetooth. Should have cost me only 80 bucks to have program but the places that are willing to try are trying to dick me.. 105 to "diagnose" and 120.00 to program lolol

[BMWBadger]

I'm a newbie and attempting to do this retrofit. So this forum has been super helpful and I wanted to say thanks to everyone who has posted. I've got just about everything done except the mic pins behind the glovebox. I cannot for the life of me get the pins to come out of the connector. Anyone have any suggestions of how to get those pins to come out? It doesn't seem like they go to a second position and then they come out. I can't get them to move at all. Also, as a FYI I have the exact same options and same year of BMW 335i as lazd. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

[alexwhittemore]

Originally Posted by badgerballer

I'm a newbie and attempting to do this retrofit. So this forum has been super helpful and I wanted to say thanks to everyone who has posted. I've got just about everything done except the mic pins behind the glovebox. I cannot for the life of me get the pins to come out of the connector. Anyone have any suggestions of how to get those pins to come out? It doesn't seem like they go to a second position and then they come out. I can't get them to move at all. Also, as a FYI I have the exact same options and same year of BMW 335i as lazd. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

I don't have a picture, but they have a metal flange that springs out to catch a cutout on the plastic housing. Push down on the exposed metal on the side of the connector housing for the pin you want, and pull back. Like a normal backpack buckle without convenient handles.

[BMWBadger]

Originally Posted by alexwhittemore

I don't have a picture, but they have a metal flange that springs out to catch a cutout on the plastic housing. Push down on the exposed metal on the side of the connector housing for the pin you want, and pull back. Like a normal backpack buckle without convenient handles.

Do you need a lot of force to push the metal flange down so it doesn't catch? I feel like it should be easy to push the metal tabs in like the pins I changed in the trunk. I was pretty much doing what you described so maybe I just need to work at it a bit more.

[Jpropri]

Since I can't seem to find anyone with Autologic experience to finish my coding (see previous posts by me in this forum) - I figure I'll purchase the DCAN cable, download the NCS Expert software and attempt to complete myself.

With that, I found this cable on ebay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-INPAEdia...-/300811788071). Any reason I should not buy this? The reason I ask is because the price is about $50 less than the cable on 'one stop' ($99).

[alexwhittemore]

No guarantees, but it looks solid. I made the same gamble and my $50 cable works great.

The trick is whether it uses an FT232rl chip or a cheaper, buggier competitor. This listing doesn't say, but it does list lots of positive clues.

$100 is way more than the assembly is worth. $20 and I'd be worried, though.

[Jpropri]

Originally Posted by alexwhittemore

No guarantees, but it looks solid. I made the same gamble and my $50 cable works great.

The trick is whether it uses an FT232rl chip or a cheaper, buggier competitor. This listing doesn't say, but it does list lots of positive clues.

$100 is way more than the assembly is worth. $20 and I'd be worried, though.

Thanks. I purchased this one (http://www.ebay.com/itm/271177413173...84.m1497.l2649) - wanted a cable with 64-bit capability. I may be reaching out for assistance

[BMWBadger]

I just wanted to say thanks to Lazd and the other members who posted on this thread. I successfully completed the bluetooth retrofit last weekend. My vehicle had the same options as Lazd's. I did end up having to repin the mic pins behind the glove box. If anyone is looking for a coder in the Milwaukee or Madison area shoot me a PM. I found a guy who's coded quite a few cars in Madison.

[atl32807]

Originally Posted by atl32807

it says MULF2 HI

this is a photo of my cables, any guidance?

[snoozee]

Originally Posted by atl32807

this is a photo of my cables, any guidance?

i THINK the antenna cable is the one with the black/pink connector. Can't verify as my car doesn't come prewired. You may want to search your driver side foot well for the other end of the cable to verify. You need to remove a panel first. read the first few posts of this thread on what you need to remove.

you do not need the rest of the cables as they seem to be for sat radio.

also check your fzd and see if there is existing mic wirings. you may also want to remove the mulf 2 and check the existing connections on it.

if your car does come prewired, you only need to do coding and maybe the swapping of the mic wiring behind the glove box.

[atl32807]

Originally Posted by snoozee

i THINK the antenna cable is the one with the black/pink connector. Can't verify as my car doesn't come prewired. You may want to search your driver side foot well for the other end of the cable to verify. You need to remove a panel first. read the first few posts of this thread on what you need to remove.

you do not need the rest of the cables as they seem to be for sat radio.

also check your fzd and see if there is existing mic wirings. you may also want to remove the mulf 2 and check the existing connections on it.

if your car does come prewired, you only need to do coding and maybe the swapping of the mic wiring behind the glove box.

Snooze, i was outside removing the unit so i could post pics of it... its different from others as you have said in the past but plesae review:

[snoozee]

Originally Posted by atl32807

Snooze, i was outside removing the unit so i could post pics of it... its different from others as you have said in the past but plesae review:

from first pic, i can see you have the mic wiring. it's the thick black wire which has clear heat shrink.

from 2nd pic, i can see you are missing the antenna cable.

3rd pic just confirms that you have a mulf2 high.

you still need to search your driver side foot well to see if you do have the other side of the antenna cable. if you manage to find it and have a multimeter, you could short the connectors of the antenna cable on the footwell side and check the bunch of cables you found in the trunk to confirm. if the color code of the connector is the same as one of those in the trunk, then i guess it should be the same cable.

search the fzd to see if you have any existing mic, if you do not, then you need to order the mic and bt antenna, install hardware, code and test. whether you need to swap mic wires behind the glove box will depend on the test calls you make and whether the other party can hear you.

that's all there is to do.

[atl32807]

Originally Posted by snoozee

from first pic, i can see you have the mic wiring. it's the thick black wire which has clear heat shrink.

from 2nd pic, i can see you are missing the antenna cable.

3rd pic just confirms that you have a mulf2 high.

you still need to search your driver side foot well to see if you do have the other side of the antenna cable. if you manage to find it and have a multimeter, you could short the connectors of the antenna cable on the footwell side and check the bunch of cables you found in the trunk to confirm. if the color code of the connector is the same as one of those in the trunk, then i guess it should be the same cable.

search the fzd to see if you have any existing mic, if you do not, then you need to order the mic and bt antenna, install hardware, code and test. whether you need to swap mic wires behind the glove box will depend on the test calls you make and whether the other party can hear you.

that's all there is to do.

thank you for the response, isn't the antenna cable the white with purpel cap on far left? it looks the same as the OP's install photo

[Xplore]

I've got just about everything done except the mic pins behind the glovebox. I cannot for the life of me get the pins to come out of the connector. Anyone have any suggestions of how to get those pins to come out? It doesn't seem like they go to a second position and then they come out.

There is a cover over the pins on the white connector in the glove box. I used a small flathead to get that cover off and was able to remove the pins easily. Tried for an hour or so before realizing that the cover on both sides of the white connector needed to be removed in order to pull the pins out. This was the hardest part of the hardware changes to make for me. Of course it was easy once I figured out how to do it correctly.

Thanks to lazd for the write up, made this upgrade possible for me.

I do have to also thank ******84 for help with changing the VO. I had issues with install of NCS and he was able to get it operating and got it coded. Project complete!

-X

[snoozee]

Originally Posted by atl32807

thank you for the response, isn't the antenna cable the white with purpel cap on far left? it looks the same as the OP's install photo

as i've mentioned, my car did not have prewiring so i do not know what is the correct color. based on the official BMW install guide, the cable for antenna is supposed to be black color which is why i asked you to check for the cable in your foot well and match the colors.