Help with changing rotors

Sam_335i · 02-14-2010, 08:52 PM

I am about to order some cross drilled rotors and I am trying to figure out what the torque specs on the caliper bolts. Is tight enough?

Also can I get the calipers off with a torque wrench or would I need an impact gu

bmw6953 · 02-14-2010, 09:57 PM

I belive the torque spec is 40 foot lbs (correct me if I'm wrong) . Also you might need a malet to remove the old rotors if they are rusted on there.

Just a good size wrench with the correct socket should do it . Rear bolts are 17mm and front bolts are 18mm. You might need to aply some force to get them off. I had my brother pull on the wrench with me. If you don't have any help buy a braker bar. I don't think there is any need for need for a impact wrench.

neo871 · 02-15-2010, 02:00 AM

What aftermarket rotors have you found?

Sam_335i · 02-15-2010, 08:29 AM

Here is the link to the rotors I am thinking on buying:

http://brakeperformance.com/site/bra...0410&ad=direct

stressdoc · 02-15-2010, 11:54 AM

I suggest checking out the DIY section for brake replacement.

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=76418

Sam_335i · 03-06-2010, 12:56 AM

Well after getting my drivers rear rotor off, I tried to install the brake performance cross drilled/slotted replacement and it does not fit. Its too big on the hub and does not allow me to tighten the allen wrench screw. Hope they refund me my money.

Here is the link:

http://brakeperformance.com/site/bra...0410&ad=direct

stressdoc · 03-06-2010, 11:26 AM

Measure it -- maybe they sent you the front rotor by mistake.

AlanAZ · 03-07-2010, 08:18 AM

Quote:

brakeperformance.com

Slots that go all the way to the edge weaken the rotor. Look at Brembo or Stoptech, the slots end before the edge of the rotor.

clairvoyant · 03-07-2010, 11:00 PM

A rubber mallet vs. alignment, tie rods, etc is not a good idea. Invest a three jaw puller if you are a DIY enthusiast.
Or you can rent it from Autozone.

Quote:

Originally Posted by bmw6953

I belive the torque spec is 40 foot lbs (correct me if I'm wrong) . Also you might need a malet to remove the old rotors if they are rusted on there.

Just a good size wrench with the correct socket should do it . Rear bolts are 17mm and front bolts are 18mm. You might need to aply some force to get them off. I had my brother pull on the wrench with me. If you don't have any help buy a braker bar. I don't think there is any need for need for a impact wrench.

Sam_335i · 03-08-2010, 07:21 AM

After a weekend struggle mission accomplished.

Lessons learned:

1. Front rotors when put on a rear rotor hub will not work. lol
2. Rear rotors are a pain. Must release parking brake to get them off.
3. The correct tools for the job are must in any situation (torque wrench,
breaker bar, allen wrenches, rubber mallet)
4. The parking brake must be released in order to remove the rear rotors. Be
careful doing this and make sure the car is in gear and the tires are
blocked off as the car will roll if not secured. Once I got the rear rotor
off I placed the parking brake back on until I was ready to install the new
rotor.

On the rear to help them off, I placed a bolt through the 2 holes used to hold the caliper bracket on the rub (after it was removed). Then I threaded the bolt on the outside with a washer and nut. Tightened the bolt until it pushed against the back of the rotor. This helped loosen it up a bit.

The fronts came off with no problem or fuss.

Will post pics later today.

stressdoc · 03-08-2010, 09:07 AM

Excellent, looking forward to pics!

Sam_335i · 03-08-2010, 06:53 PM

Here are 2 pics taken from my phone. Not the best pics

best1 · 03-17-2010, 09:37 PM

i used the same rotors on my car. i now have a vibration and figure it is from these rotors. only when braking and i am using cool carbon pads

Sam_335i · 03-18-2010, 07:00 AM

2 weeks running and no vibration when braking.

e90pilot · 03-18-2010, 05:21 PM

I have a set of stoptech OE replacement rotors in the works for mine. Keep an eye on the crossdrilled holes, they sometimes can crack. Vibration is usually caused by pad deposites and not warping. Improper bedding will lead to deposites. Avoid ABS when bedding the pads as it leads to a "washboard effect" on the rotor due to the pad skipping. Once the pads are bedded go into ABS to your hearts desire.

If you have no problems after 2 weeks then it's safe to say your pads are properly broken in. The only thing you have to worry about now is cracking near the holes. It's usually caused by excessive heat buildup and fast cooldown. The stock brakes have decent cooling ducts so you shouldn't have to worry too much.

best1 · 03-25-2010, 07:26 PM

my vibration started after 3500 miles. i think it is the rotors. No problems before that mileage and it is getting worse. i hope brake performance will switch mine out for plain rotors as i really like the stopping power.

02-14-2010, 08:52 PM	#1
Sam_335i Private First Class 22 Rep 139 Posts Drives: Alpine White 335i Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Maryland iTrader: (0)	Help with changing rotors I am about to order some cross drilled rotors and I am trying to figure out what the torque specs on the caliper bolts. Is tight enough? Also can I get the calipers off with a torque wrench or would I need an impact gu
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02-14-2010, 09:57 PM	#2
bmw6953 Second Lieutenant 22 Rep 257 Posts Drives: 2006 325i Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: california iTrader: (0)	I belive the torque spec is 40 foot lbs (correct me if I'm wrong) . Also you might need a malet to remove the old rotors if they are rusted on there. Just a good size wrench with the correct socket should do it . Rear bolts are 17mm and front bolts are 18mm. You might need to aply some force to get them off. I had my brother pull on the wrench with me. If you don't have any help buy a braker bar. I don't think there is any need for need for a impact wrench. Last edited by bmw6953; 02-14-2010 at 10:15 PM..
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02-15-2010, 02:00 AM	#3
neo871 Major 142 Rep 1,399 Posts Drives: 340i xDrive MPPSK Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Bucharest, Romania iTrader: (0)	What aftermarket rotors have you found?
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02-15-2010, 08:29 AM	#4
Sam_335i Private First Class 22 Rep 139 Posts Drives: Alpine White 335i Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Maryland iTrader: (0)	Here is the link to the rotors I am thinking on buying: http://brakeperformance.com/site/bra...0410&ad=direct
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02-15-2010, 11:54 AM	#5
stressdoc Moderator 617 Rep 10,855 Posts Drives: BMW i8; Toy 4runner TRD pro Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Waco TX iTrader: (0)	I suggest checking out the DIY section for brake replacement. http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=76418 __________________ My recent ED photos: http://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sho....php?t=1026808 my not-so-recent ED: http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=31829 Please join BMWCCA http://bmwcca.org/index.php?pageid=c...&ref_by=300279
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03-06-2010, 12:56 AM	#6
Sam_335i Private First Class 22 Rep 139 Posts Drives: Alpine White 335i Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Maryland iTrader: (0)	Well after getting my drivers rear rotor off, I tried to install the brake performance cross drilled/slotted replacement and it does not fit. Its too big on the hub and does not allow me to tighten the allen wrench screw. Hope they refund me my money. Here is the link: http://brakeperformance.com/site/bra...0410&ad=direct
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03-06-2010, 11:26 AM	#7
stressdoc Moderator 617 Rep 10,855 Posts Drives: BMW i8; Toy 4runner TRD pro Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Waco TX iTrader: (0)	Measure it -- maybe they sent you the front rotor by mistake. __________________ My recent ED photos: http://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sho....php?t=1026808 my not-so-recent ED: http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=31829 Please join BMWCCA http://bmwcca.org/index.php?pageid=c...&ref_by=300279
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03-08-2010, 07:21 AM	#10
Sam_335i Private First Class 22 Rep 139 Posts Drives: Alpine White 335i Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Maryland iTrader: (0)	After a weekend struggle mission accomplished. Lessons learned: 1. Front rotors when put on a rear rotor hub will not work. lol 2. Rear rotors are a pain. Must release parking brake to get them off. 3. The correct tools for the job are must in any situation (torque wrench, breaker bar, allen wrenches, rubber mallet) 4. The parking brake must be released in order to remove the rear rotors. Be careful doing this and make sure the car is in gear and the tires are blocked off as the car will roll if not secured. Once I got the rear rotor off I placed the parking brake back on until I was ready to install the new rotor. On the rear to help them off, I placed a bolt through the 2 holes used to hold the caliper bracket on the rub (after it was removed). Then I threaded the bolt on the outside with a washer and nut. Tightened the bolt until it pushed against the back of the rotor. This helped loosen it up a bit. The fronts came off with no problem or fuss. Will post pics later today.
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03-08-2010, 09:07 AM	#11
stressdoc Moderator 617 Rep 10,855 Posts Drives: BMW i8; Toy 4runner TRD pro Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Waco TX iTrader: (0)	Excellent, looking forward to pics! __________________ My recent ED photos: http://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sho....php?t=1026808 my not-so-recent ED: http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=31829 Please join BMWCCA http://bmwcca.org/index.php?pageid=c...&ref_by=300279
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03-08-2010, 06:53 PM	#12
Sam_335i Private First Class 22 Rep 139 Posts Drives: Alpine White 335i Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Maryland iTrader: (0)	Here are 2 pics taken from my phone. Not the best pics Attached Images
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03-17-2010, 09:37 PM	#13
best1 New Member 0 Rep 17 Posts Drives: 550I sport Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Nashville, TN iTrader: (0) Garage List 2008 BMW 550i [0.00]	i used the same rotors on my car. i now have a vibration and figure it is from these rotors. only when braking and i am using cool carbon pads
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03-18-2010, 07:00 AM	#14
Sam_335i Private First Class 22 Rep 139 Posts Drives: Alpine White 335i Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Maryland iTrader: (0)	2 weeks running and no vibration when braking.
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03-18-2010, 05:21 PM	#15
e90pilot Freight Dawg 102 Rep 2,103 Posts Drives: E90 325i Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Oakland, CA iTrader: (3)	I have a set of stoptech OE replacement rotors in the works for mine. Keep an eye on the crossdrilled holes, they sometimes can crack. Vibration is usually caused by pad deposites and not warping. Improper bedding will lead to deposites. Avoid ABS when bedding the pads as it leads to a "washboard effect" on the rotor due to the pad skipping. Once the pads are bedded go into ABS to your hearts desire. If you have no problems after 2 weeks then it's safe to say your pads are properly broken in. The only thing you have to worry about now is cracking near the holes. It's usually caused by excessive heat buildup and fast cooldown. The stock brakes have decent cooling ducts so you shouldn't have to worry too much. __________________ --Marcelo '06 Arctic Metallic 325i \| Sport Package \| 6MT \| Dinan Stage III suspension \| Dinan exhaust \| 330i manifold swap! Click here! \| Active Autowerke tune \| 135i Brake Calipers \| Deiselboost caliper brackets \| E46 M3 front rotors
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03-25-2010, 07:26 PM	#16
best1 New Member 0 Rep 17 Posts Drives: 550I sport Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Nashville, TN iTrader: (0) Garage List 2008 BMW 550i [0.00]	my vibration started after 3500 miles. i think it is the rotors. No problems before that mileage and it is getting worse. i hope brake performance will switch mine out for plain rotors as i really like the stopping power. Last edited by best1; 03-25-2010 at 07:50 PM.. Reason: hit wrong button
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