[Delusive]

UPDATE: Video results shown in post #17 I solved my problem with a new OEM battery that I bought from my local BMW dealership which costs around $160-$300 depending on features, year, model of your car. Just to make things straight about the coding controversy, when putting a new battery into your bmw you don't need to get it coded but get it registered so the computer knows it's a new battery. The only time you need to reprogram/code it is if you opted for an aftermarket battery with different ratings.




I searched around but couldn't find anything about my situation so I post here to seek some help from other members.

I have an 07' E92 328 and just a couple days ago my car had trouble starting and kept giving me many different warning lights. I was worried so I went to the nearest auto shop that had knowledge about BMW's, when they took a look at it they told me right away it's my battery. So when I got home, I brought out my battery voltage reader and plugged it into the terminal under the hood to check readings. When the car is off my battery is holding 10-10.6V.

But can my battery be causing all this trouble for me or is it more serious like an electrical problem? Also is that clunking noise normal when my car starts, you can hear it in the third video at 31-33 seconds. Ignore the sound after, it's me releasing the brake pedal.


Here are some videos.

First start

Second start

Third start

Help me

[Turb0Surge]

Definitely could be your battery. And if the shop says it is then it probably is.

[BMW_Belgier]

When it is your first, it will be your battery...

[Delusive]

Before I jumped the gun on buying a new battery I went on a long one hour road trip on the highway to where ever to see if my battery would get it's charge but it didn't work so I wasted my time and gas. This was suggested on some forum I found in a google search.

@Belgier
I don't get it.

[AddictedToBavarian]

Yea, definitely sounds like it's your battery. You have an 07 and depending on your production date your battery can be close to 6 years old (assuming it's the original). I have an 08 and I'm anticipating this soon.

[sn0pea]

Same errors just happened to me today. I also think its a battery problem. My battery issues have thrown a ton of random errors at me, and just today I got that gear one

[BMW_Belgier]

Originally Posted by JS-NA.E92

Before I jumped the gun on buying a new battery I went on a long one hour road trip on the highway to where ever to see if my battery would get it's charge but it didn't work so I wasted my time and gas. This was suggested on some forum I found in a google search.

@Belgier
I don't get it.

If you are driving a 07 model and it is still your first battery, then it is very possible that you're battery is dead!

Sorry, my english is not my mother language

[Delusive]

Originally Posted by AddictedToBavarian

Yea, definitely sounds like it's your battery. You have an 07 and depending on your production date your battery can be close to 6 years old (assuming it's the original). I have an 08 and I'm anticipating this soon.

I really don't know if it's an original but how do the original batteries look like and how long do our batteries usually last?

@sn0pea
Were on the same boat, I plan on getting my battery changed next week on my day off. I'll keep you updated.

@Belgier
Now I get it

[sn0pea]

I may get it done before you.
My car wouldn't shift gears yesterday with the warnings.

[sn0pea]

Here are the warnings I am getting: Have you seen all/any of these?
The slipping car warning confuses me. That warning isn't explained in the manual.

[Delusive]

Originally Posted by sn0pea

Here are the warnings I am getting: Have you seen all/any of these?
The slipping car warning confuses me. That warning isn't explained in the manual.

Picture #1: Slip indicator warning, it's basically telling you the car may lose grip due to difficult driving conditions.

Picture #2: Powertrain malfunction warning, it puts your car in limp mode and telling you the powertrain has been damaged.

Picture #3: Brake alert warning.

Picture #4: Tire pressure low warning.

Hope that helped

[sn0pea]

Originally Posted by JS-NA.E92

Picture #1: Slip indicator warning, it's basically telling you the car may lose grip due to difficult driving conditions.

Picture #2: Powertrain malfunction warning, it puts your car in limp mode and telling you the powertrain has been damaged.

Picture #3: Brake alert warning.

Picture #4: Tire pressure low warning.

Hope that helped

I fear #2. According to the manual, since #2 is just a yellow light it says "Automatic selector lever locked:Selector lever locked in position P with engine running and brake depressed"
or
"Brake signal malfunctioning: gear can be engaged without depressing the brake"

Those phrases don't sound like english to me

[sn0pea]

Also, I left the car running for 10+ hours and I'm still getting a black light, meaning insufficiently charged, from my battery

[Delusive]

Originally Posted by sn0pea

Also, I left the car running for 10+ hours and I'm still getting a black light, meaning insufficiently charged, from my battery

What I heard is leaving the car alone to charge the battery on idle or stationary is worse then actually driving it. I was suggested by another BMW owner to go on a long drive like one hour but that didn't help at all.

I also fear #2 cuz it's the damn powertrain, but what I notice when I get this warning light is it shifts hard and if you put it into another gear like R, N, or D I can feel the car switching to the point the car nudges forward or backwards while stationary. I need to buy a new battery a.s.a.p and get all the codes cleared before things get worse. I recommend you do the same, don't wait as I did.

[sn0pea]

Originally Posted by JS-NA.E92

What I heard is leaving the car alone to charge the battery on idle or stationary is worse then actually driving it. I was suggested by another BMW owner to go on a long drive like one hour but that didn't help at all.

I also fear #2 cuz it's the damn powertrain, but what I notice when I get this warning light is it shifts hard and if you put it into another gear like R, N, or D I can feel the car switching to the point the car nudges forward or backwards while stationary. I need to buy a new battery a.s.a.p and get all the codes cleared before things get worse. I recommend you do the same, don't wait as I did.

How can things get worst?
Did you just buy a battery from the dealer? If so, how much did it run you?
Oh, and when are you getting it installed? I want to hear if it fixes it.
AAA is trying to talk me into getting their battery because they have a better warrenty

[Delusive]

Originally Posted by sn0pea

How can things get worst?
Did you just buy a battery from the dealer? If so, how much did it run you?
Oh, and when are you getting it installed? I want to hear if it fixes it.
AAA is trying to talk me into getting their battery because they have a better warrenty

I don't know how it can get worse, i'm just telling you what I read. But onto the point of my post.

After I got home from work I was deciding to buy a new battery from my local dealer which is BMW of San Francisco, so I call the parts department to ask how much it would cost for a new battery and they quoted me $260 after taxes. I thought to myself it sounds about right then I asked if it has warranty, they said yes it comes with a 2 year / 50,000 miles warranty, whichever comes first so I jumped the gun and went straight to the dealership, bought me my new battery. Funny thing is when I got to my car, it wouldn't start anymore. I tried about 20 presses but still a no go then I got out my car asked the person who sold me the battery if I can get assistance in jumping my battery so my car can start.

He was kind enough to come out himself to help me, so I thanked him for giving me great customer service. After my car started, I shook the sales persons hand and was on my way home. I got home and immediately went straight to replacing my battery.

Here's some pictures (The pure white battery on the left is the new battery and white with yellow on the right is the old one)

[Delusive]

I was wondering where that wire connects and what it is (as seen in the last two pictures), when I took my old battery out it was already disconnected.

Here's the video to the end result of replacing my battery, car good as new!

Anyone know the answer to my question? any insight will be appreciated.

[sn0pea]

Great to hear!
At this point, my car wouldn't make it to the dealership (which is only 1.5 miles away). It won't move without having some crazy issues.

I'm reading around that the OEM battery really isn't necessary. $260 sounds like a lot to me. AAA wants to sell me one for $140.
Did you have to code anything after installing the new battery?

[AddictedToBavarian]

You forgot to code the new battery.

[Delusive]

Coding was not necessary since its the same size and voltage, I asked BMW if it was needed they said no since the old and new battery have same Ah which is 90 and A at 720. I don't have a OBD Tool so I couldn't code it myself.

By the way how much does coding cost? I just don't want to pay a ridiculous amount just for the coding.

You don't have to buy OEM is was just my personal choice as I don't want to code my car for an aftermarket battery. It was more of a necessity for me to go OEM.

[TheTal0n]

yup, my battery was dying and it said I had a transmission malfunction, you can imagine my face for that one.

It had all sorts of random lights that didnt make sense. change it and code it.

oh just saw you fixed it, good!

[bumere90]

you can code yourself
if your battery voltage drops below 11V then it needs to be replaced