[BLUE LABEL]

Alright guys, I am in need of some help. This is how the story goes:
07 335i E92 w/o Oil Cooler ( no previous History of any failures or issues)
Recently I started noticing my engine making some peculiar sounds. Upon closer inspection I noted that the radiator fan would go through this not so random routine of cycling hard and then slowly amping down. This sinusoidal pattern to the sound seemed very out of the ordinary. It would start to increase in RPM and be on full speed and then on its own begin to taper off. I didnt seen any other symptoms from the car or onboard diagnostics so I ignorantly allowed it to pass. Then about a month into this, while driving locally I noted a yellow engine temperature hot! icon flash. Then shortly after it proceeded to a red icon and you guessed it - Limp mode. My oil temperature throughout this whole process was at 220. After a little research - Water Pump Failure ! It didnt completely fail but I think was on its way because I was able to able to restart the car without the same failure/warnings from occurring.
Today I got my water pump/thermostat and oil/filter changed at a bmw indy shop.
HEREs the ISSUE: MY CAR'S ENGINE OIL TEMPS ALWAYS RAN 220-230F.
The guy at the shop mentions to me if I noticed my engine oil temps to be running a bit high. The guy takes the car out for a spin to make sure the fault codes are not reproducible after replacing the water pump/thermostat.
They mention they were pacing the car 3k-6k RPM for the test drive post placement of the new water pump.
NOW MY CAR ENGINE OIL TEMPS ARE RUNNING 240-250F .
IS THIS NORMAL??? ANYONE ELSE NOTE AN ELEVATION IN ENGINE OIL TEMPS AFTER GETTING THIS CHANGE??? The Temp gauge gets stuck at 240 even with spirited driving ( 5-6k rpm) I held the Rev's in 3rd gear around that RPM for a minute or two without seeing that needle budge any higher than 245.
Im at a loss to figure out why my car would all of a sudden run at a higher temp?
ANY and ALL HELP GREATLY APPRECIATED.

[username604]

My temp gauge always climbs until it reaches 245, and then it's as if it's stuck there
you're fine!

[Fitz335]

I usually run between 210-240. My Thermostat is also busted so it takes me quite a bit to even get in that range. Highway driving I'll stay around 210, in traffic it will creep up to 235-240 at the highest.

My guess is your Thermostat was busted and that's why you never got higher then 220.

[BLUE LABEL]

I reviewed some of the threads on here and that temperature is within the normal operational parameters for the car. But what i dont understand is why there was change from the normal baseline of 220 to this temperature of 245ish. Im going to keep a close eye on it but has anyone else noted a similar result after changing the water pump ??

[Fitz335]

Different Thermostat.

[MrRetep]

Mine has been around 245-250 since I got the car, and that includes a waterpump replacement about a week ago. On track it went to nearly 260 I think you'll be okay.

[BLUE LABEL]

does the Tstat for the water pump measure temps for the coolant or or the oil? I thought it measured coolant temps?

[eric@helix]

Originally Posted by BLUE LABEL

does the Tstat for the water pump measure temps for the coolant or or the oil? I thought it measured coolant temps?

Coolant. Do you notice your fan running more than normal since the repair?

[BLUE LABEL]

no actually its running less . The Fan used to cycle on and off, revving at high speeds even at idle. Now that is completely resolved. I think that was related to the dying water pump. I drove it around today and temp stayed in 220-230 range. I think the indy mechanic probably was pushing my car hard to see if the water pump was doing what it should be doing.

[07lilredwagon]

240 sounds awfully high, guys...210, 220...that should be peak for normal driving...4-6k rpms? kinda pushing it, eh?.....Most cars "back in the day" ran at 180....I guess the higher temps help the epa rating...but not our motors in the long run.

I would love to hear from a tech or mechanic as to what temps our cars should be running at.

One note about the gauges...unless you have a mechanical gauge that reads actual temps...the gauge you are seeing may only be a glorified idiot light. Thats why they go to max "temp" or 240 and dont move from there.

The temps should rise with the thermostadt closed, then, the thermostadt opens and fan comes on to lower the temp to a certain point and then things cycle again....if your gauge is not showing temperature fluctuations while following the curve (The sine wave or sinusoid is a mathematical curve that describes a smooth repetitive oscillation) then, you have an idiot light gauge, for lack of a better term and not an actual gauge.

Im looking into getting a set of 3 gauges to replace my ashtray area so I can see real time at a glance my water temp, oil pressure and charging system health....I want to know if something is going wrong before the computer parameters max out and switch on the idiot lights.

JP

[BLUE LABEL]

I think the mech at the indy shop wanted to see if he could push the temps high. I am not sure if a new stat/cooler would alter the baseline engine oil temps. What I dont get is if my old water pump was failing, why my oil temp gauge never pushed 230 even when the Yellow/Red warning appeared???