[bNks334]

Originally Posted by OneMoreAlex

But the point I was trying to make is that saying the oil temp has no effect on coolant temp is false information. I would like to know where you're coming up with that analyses.

Coolant and oil cool two different parts of the engine. Their temperatures don't fluctuate in a 1:1 manner. Especially not on this engine where the coolant and oil passages are actually fairly well separated due to the design of the engine block. Therefore, while there is a positive correlation, I accurately stated that there is not a DIRECT correlation. You support this yourself when you say "I've also had my water pump go out on me at ~30k. That time the oil temps were normal."

TLDR - It's not false information; you just don't understand what we are saying.

Originally Posted by OneMoreAlex

This is just not true. I just had my radiator replaced along with the expansion tank. The only reason it was in for service was because I noticed the oil temps were higher than usual. There were no lights, warning signs, not even a noticeable leak. Had it not be for my extreme OCD about my oil temps the leak would have gone completely unnoticed.

You had a leak and your oil temps were high. What does that have to do with the OP's oil temps being exactly where they are supposed to be and me telling him he needs to log his COOLANT TEMPS to see if THEY are too high? You said it yourself "OP - oil temp up to 250 is considered normal."

Tony_s

Listen to me, your OIL TEMPS are fine. However, no one here can conlude on whether or not you are having ANY issue with your COOLANT until you get us some numbers.

I listed two of the easiest ways to log your coolant temps in my first reply... Use an OBII to Bluetooth adapter ($10 Amazon) and download the "Torque" app (Free) on your phone. Or, entirely for free, you can look up how to unlock the hidden menu in the dashboard of your car using the indicator stalk. Not sure how much more clear I can be on those two options. Google them both a bit... I won't do it for you.

It looks like you have a JB4. You can try to log your coolant temps with the JB4. My JB4 didn't log coolant temps. The coolant and oil parameters constantly don't log right because terry uses those values in his coding for gauge hijacking. He must have some busted code still.

You have to understand something though. The car literally was designed to run the oil at temperatures between 230f and 250f. You can argue with people all day as to whether or not that is a proper range for synthetic oil, but I agree with BMW engineers that it's a perfectly fine operating range for both performance and economy. This range actually varies slightly from car to car, but I will keep using those numbers as an example.

The oil cooling system is engineered to shed heat only enough to keep you under 250f under STREET driving conditions. Despite being a performance oriented BMW, the system just isn't meant to handle the excess heat your causing with aggressive driving and a substantial power increase.

The stock thermostat stays closed to get oil up to 230f as quickly as possible. This is for various reasons. The oil temp rises rapidly on startup because it's being prevented from flowing through the oil cooler until oil reaches the correct operating temperature.

Once up to correct operating temperature, the thermostat opens gradually. By opening, the thermostat allows oil to pass through the oil cooler. The thermostat stays open only enough to maintain oil temperatures below 250.

The reason you are so used to seeing such low oil temps is because you installed a different oil thermostat that starts opening at a much lower temperature. Your oil stays at that low temperature during light and moderate driving. What you're experiencing now exemplifies why a lower temperature oil thermostat is useless though.

It's hot as balls out and the N54/N55 is a hot engine. The engine still produces the same amount of heat whether you start dumping it at 180f or 230f. All you are doing is prolonging the inevitable. On the street, the stock core is pretty good at keeping you below 260 at most. However, if you continue to push the car hard for long periods of time then heat will build up. 20 minutes of track driving might push you past 290f even. This is going to happen whether your thermostat fully opens at 10f or 280f.

If your goal is to keep temps below 230f, which is pointless, you need a massively larger oil cooler and probably a better radiator too. A more realistic goal is to keep things under 270ish though.

I am not even going to get into talking about bleeding the pump or looking for blockage because all we know so far is that your car is working as it should be.

[Manberg]

My car reads 245F on oil all the time. 20F outside or 120F outside, she runs at 245. I wouldn't be worried about it unless it keeps creeping up higher than that.

[Kjaakars]

Originally Posted by weehe126

If you have a mechanical water pump you don't have an N55.

Yes i know. i have a N47 D20, 130kw. I just cant find where is explained how to bleed air from cooling system if you have mechanical water pump. Everywhere is explained with electric pump.

[Tony_s]

ok guys,
this may be premature but i feel comfortable enough calling it for now, the temperatures that had me worried are indeed NORMAL temperatures. after a full day of running errands yesterday and today i even had a chance to race an M3 on my way home from school, the car has been behaving 100% normal and even dropped a little in temperature while i was running against the M3 on the freeway (we didn't pass 130 MPH tho :[ ).

so all in all id like to thank each and everyone who contributed to this post.

my car is experiencing other minor problems (AWD transmission and THROTTLE ANGLE) but i need to do my hw and if i come up empty handed i will create another post for them in the correct place. i always welcome suggestions/help so please stay tuned lol.

THANK YOU

[AirbusPilot]

Originally Posted by Tony_s

ok guys,
this may be premature but i feel comfortable enough calling it for now, the temperatures that had me worried are indeed NORMAL temperatures. after a full day of running errands yesterday and today i even had a chance to race an M3 on my way home from school, the car has been behaving 100% normal and even dropped a little in temperature while i was running against the M3 on the freeway (we didn't pass 130 MPH tho :[ ).

so all in all id like to thank each and everyone who contributed to this post.

my car is experiencing other minor problems (AWD transmission and THROTTLE ANGLE) but i need to do my hw and if i come up empty handed i will create another post for them in the correct place. i always welcome suggestions/help so please stay tuned lol.

THANK YOU

Ahh..how'd it go against the M3? Which map?

[Tony_s]

Originally Posted by AirbusPilot

Ahh..how'd it go against the M3? Which map?

Map 1. M3 won over all but it wasn't easy for him. M3 was struggling to increase the gap between us. Max distance he got ahead of me was about 2 cars (had traffic) but he was slowly walking on me. I gotta say that my 335xi performed better than I expected against an M3. Unfortunately for me we didn't get a chance to race off the line. I have a nice advantage there but all n all JB4 335xi put up a really nice challenge to the M3. I'm sure he expect to see a faster growing margin between us (because he kept coming back for more).

[AirbusPilot]

Originally Posted by Tony_s

Map 1. M3 won over all but it wasn't easy for him. M3 was struggling to increase the gap between us. Max distance he got ahead of me was about 2 cars (had traffic) but he was slowly walking on me. I gotta say that my 335xi performed better than I expected against an M3. Unfortunately for me we didn't get a chance to race off the line. I have a nice advantage there but all n all JB4 335xi put up a really nice challenge to the M3. I'm sure he expect to see a faster growing margin between us (because he kept coming back for more).

Cool..

I run map 2 (stock exhaust), but I also have a 7" intercooler.

[Mcnelly]

My car is having random overheating problems. Some days it works just fine others it's a pain. Pump and thermostat are newish(6 months old) any idea why it does this???

[anjuna]

Originally Posted by Mcnelly

My car is having random overheating problems. Some days it works just fine others it's a pain. Pump and thermostat are newish(6 months old) any idea why it does this???

do you use sport mode often?

there are different temperature targets for each mode.... (sport being higher)

[Sunset rider]

Hi, recently joined and need to reply to one post. Thankfully, this is similar/close to my issue. I am happy to repost in new thread...when allowed....in the meantime...

I have a recetly new to me 2013E92 335i N55.
Warning "Coolant Too Low"
Recently (last Friday) changed the Thermostat and Coolant reservoir (evidence of reservoir leaking. Not really used the car much during weekend.
Today after driving some 50kms "Low Coolant" message appears again along with warning light.
Drove about 2kms to Indy and slightly topped coolant again.
Ran the Bleed procedure twice.
Car was cooled down and when started again...."low Coolant" message came on as well as warning light.
Allowed car to cool down again and check coolant level...was exactly where it should be.
No Failure Codes for Water Pump or Thermostat.
As discussed with original PO, my oil temp seems to be at the normal range when light and message cme on.

Potential issue I coulnt understand....
1. if you turn ignition on (not engine running)....water pump and circulates well....no air pockets etc
2. If you start engine....water pump stops circulating water (cant understand that one in particular)
3. Even when cooled down....the " Coolant too low" message and light stays on....

Is there a coolant reset button?
Why would the pump operate (quite well)durin the Bleed process and not when engine running???

Any views/advice welcome.

[TheGoodTheBadTheUgly]

Originally Posted by Sunset rider

Hi, recently joined and need to reply to one post. Thankfully, this is similar/close to my issue. I am happy to repost in new thread...when allowed....in the meantime...

I have a recetly new to me 2013E92 335i N55.
Warning "Coolant Too Low"
Recently (last Friday) changed the Thermostat and Coolant reservoir (evidence of reservoir leaking. Not really used the car much during weekend.
Today after driving some 50kms "Low Coolant" message appears again along with warning light.
Drove about 2kms to Indy and slightly topped coolant again.
Ran the Bleed procedure twice.
Car was cooled down and when started again...."low Coolant" message came on as well as warning light.
Allowed car to cool down again and check coolant level...was exactly where it should be.
No Failure Codes for Water Pump or Thermostat.
As discussed with original PO, my oil temp seems to be at the normal range when light and message cme on.

Potential issue I coulnt understand....
1. if you turn ignition on (not engine running)....water pump and circulates well....no air pockets etc
2. If you start engine....water pump stops circulating water (cant understand that one in particular)
3. Even when cooled down....the " Coolant too low" message and light stays on....

Is there a coolant reset button?
Why would the pump operate (quite well)durin the Bleed process and not when engine running???

Any views/advice welcome.

Did you use the same sensor that was on the prior expansion tank? If not, which sensor did you use in th new one.

Also, can you look at the old expansion tank to see if it was the OE one? A lot of aftermarket tank's are know to have sensors that malfunction early on.

[NRigs]

Originally Posted by TheGoodTheBadTheUgly

Did you use the same sensor that was on the prior expansion tank? If not, which sensor did you use in th new one.

Also, can you look at the old expansion tank to see if it was the OE one? A lot of aftermarket tank's are know to have sensors that malfunction early on.

This here. The new aftermarket tank and sensor I got from FCP Euro came with a faulty sensor. Had to swap back in the original. Was getting low coolant warning light after I just topped it off. Putting the original sensor back in solved the problem.