[De90man]

Clever install...not bagin' on that amp, but the stats aren't that good.

75 x 2

Frequency Response 20-20k Hz
THD at Rated RMS Power 1%
Signal to Noise Ratio 97 dB

20-20k cycles is as wide as humans ear can hear, but what they don't tell you is that the output falls off at the high end and low end, so frequencies at the ends will 'clip' when you ask it to make power. Higher end amps are 5-20k+hHz, so it falls off outside of audible range.

Also, 1% THD is a lot. And this is the best it will do. 1% can be heard...so look for amps with low THD:

This one has 0.05% and a 10hz-30khz frequency range. You will hear the difference, especially at high volumes. (Both are around the same price as you paid).

http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu...roductID=15520

http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu...roductID=15799


You are using this as a sub amp, so it may not be a problem.

Also, if you are running stock speakers, this will not be a problem b/c the stock speakers are not as good as after-market speakers. Rock on Rock on

[arabbmw]

so has everyone come to the conclusion that this is a safe install for someone running stock speakers and stock head unit?

by safe i mean, nothing blown, nothing sounding bad etc

[mkaaes]

soundstream hasn't made a decent product in many years

[ElectroVoice]

Originally Posted by De90man

Clever install...not bagin' on that amp, but the stats aren't that good.

75 x 2

Frequency Response 20-20k Hz
THD at Rated RMS Power 1%
Signal to Noise Ratio 97 dB

Try to tell that to buyers of this $500 amp:
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=131507
S/N I believe in the lower 80s.

Years back, I had been around and worked with some incredible systems. My motto had always been: Alpine up front, PPI in the back; always use Alpine headunit, Alpine amps for mid and highs then PPI for bass and subs. PPI had the best spec among the big3 (Fosgate, Orion and PPI), but it didn't always outperformed the other two, in fact, I believe, Orion was rated highest and won the most trophy.

Why Blaupunkt?
1.Do not need massive power to power those factory subs.
2.Figured about only 40W rms/speaker needed, setting the gains at half-way, distortion becomes non-issue.
3.for $65?! Back then, it won't even buy a no-brand amp made in an unknown country.
4.Got more than I bargained for. (that's why I'm recommending it to this board)

p.s. Haven't been keeping up with car audio until recent weeks; is Soundstream still ran by the same company? I believe my-beloved PPI and Orion were acquired by Directed, doubt they are still made in USA....no offense, but just like I'd skip BMW's assembled in South Africa.

[Lane]

Moreover Blaupunkt design does not compromise any trunk space. Show me a smaller unit.

[hkkuf]

Okay, since I've ordered the amp, I'm pretty much committed. One thing I didn't calculate was the cost of the wires and other side components to install the amp, it seems that either I can buy an installation kit for 50+ dollars or try to buy individual wires and see if it's more economical. Would you recommend an install kit for a newbie like myself? It seems that install kits come with super long power lines that I won't need since my set up is going to be done within the trunk.

I did some research for a couple of days, so I hope my questions sound more coherent.

I think for Logic 7 owners, the above referenced sub installation "DIY - Amplifier/Sub Install for E92 with I-Drive" may be more insightful. It seems that Logic 7 connects the HU and the stock amp using MOST(?) that's digital or Fiber Optic or something, so intercepting sub signal from the HU is not an option.
Rather, it seems Dr. Phuonger dude tapped the wires from stock amp to the subs, and added an additional sub in his trunk. Am I correct in my assumption that he's now got 3 subs (2 stock, 1 in his trunk) in his car?

Since I'm just looking to power the stock subs with this amp without adding another sub, my guess is that instead of simply tapping the sub wires, I need to cut the sub wires in the middle, add a line output converter (to the wires from the stock amp), connect that to Blaupunkt with a couple of RCA cables, and connect Blaupunkt to the subs with the remaining wires. Did I get the gist of it ok? (I'm hoping the sub wires simply unplug from the stock amp)

Now, what is this LVT (low voltage trigger) and is this something I absolutely need for the Blaupunkt set up as well?

Overall for this installation I'll need the following:
-2 Power wires for the battery and the ground (red and black preferred)
-1 Speaker to signal level converter with 2 channels, aka Aftermarket Amp Interface Adapter, or line output converter.
-4 speaker wires to connect the stock amp (signals to the subs) to the converter
-2 RCA cables from the converter to Blaupunkt.
-4 speaker wires to connect Blaupunkt to the cut wires to the subs (I guess I can plug the sub wires straight to Blaupunkt if they are long enough)
-1 LVT and 3 lines for LVT (maybe optional?)
-1 T-Tap to tap into a speaker wire for "trigger" (maybe optional?)

Also Crutchfield seems to recommend a fuse inbetween the power wire and the amp, did you add this as well? (it had a scary disclaimer of preventing your trunk from going up in flames)

I hope I'm not missing anything

Sorry about this long ass post. I won't blame anyone if I get completely ignored...

[jcarlucci1]

Go on ebay and buy a line converter and a wiring kit..you'll get them for $10-15 each.

Originally Posted by hkkuf

Okay, since I've ordered the amp, I'm pretty much committed. One thing I didn't calculate was the cost of the wires and other side components to install the amp, it seems that either I can buy an installation kit for 50+ dollars or try to buy individual wires and see if it's more economical. Would you recommend an install kit for a newbie like myself? It seems that install kits come with super long power lines that I won't need since my set up is going to be done within the trunk.

I did some research for a couple of days, so I hope my questions sound more coherent.

I think for Logic 7 owners, the above referenced sub installation "DIY - Amplifier/Sub Install for E92 with I-Drive" may be more insightful. It seems that Logic 7 connects the HU and the stock amp using MOST(?) that's digital or Fiber Optic or something, so intercepting sub signal from the HU is not an option.
Rather, it seems Dr. Phuonger dude tapped the wires from stock amp to the subs, and added an additional sub in his trunk. Am I correct in my assumption that he's now got 3 subs (2 stock, 1 in his trunk) in his car?

Since I'm just looking to power the stock subs with this amp without adding another sub, my guess is that instead of simply tapping the sub wires, I need to cut the sub wires in the middle, add a line output converter (to the wires from the stock amp), connect that to Blaupunkt with a couple of RCA cables, and connect Blaupunkt to the subs with the remaining wires. Did I get the gist of it ok? (I'm hoping the sub wires simply unplug from the stock amp)

Now, what is this LVT (low voltage trigger) and is this something I absolutely need for the Blaupunkt set up as well?

Overall for this installation I'll need the following:
-2 Power wires for the battery and the ground (red and black preferred)
-1 Speaker to signal level converter with 2 channels, aka Aftermarket Amp Interface Adapter, or line output converter.
-4 speaker wires to connect the stock amp (signals to the subs) to the converter
-2 RCA cables from the converter to Blaupunkt.
-4 speaker wires to connect Blaupunkt to the cut wires to the subs (I guess I can plug the sub wires straight to Blaupunkt if they are long enough)
-1 LVT and 3 lines for LVT (maybe optional?)
-1 T-Tap to tap into a speaker wire for "trigger" (maybe optional?)

Also Crutchfield seems to recommend a fuse inbetween the power wire and the amp, did you add this as well? (it had a scary disclaimer of preventing your trunk from going up in flames)

I hope I'm not missing anything

Sorry about this long ass post. I won't blame anyone if I get completely ignored...

[jcarlucci1]

Couple of questions for you more experienced guys..I just bought an amp to do this..its 50w rms, 100 peak at 4ohms. Will this give a sufficient bump in volume from stock? It also has a subsonic filter to filter out low frequencies between 15-60hz. Any idea where I should set it for stock speakers?

[ElectroVoice]

Originally Posted by hkkuf

Okay, since I've ordered the amp, I'm pretty much committed. One thing I didn't calculate was the cost of the wires and other side components to install the amp, it seems that either I can buy an installation kit for 50+ dollars or try to buy individual wires and see if it's more economical. Would you recommend an install kit for a newbie like myself? It seems that install kits come with super long power lines that I won't need since my set up is going to be done within the trunk.

I did some research for a couple of days, so I hope my questions sound more coherent.

I think for Logic 7 owners, the above referenced sub installation "DIY - Amplifier/Sub Install for E92 with I-Drive" may be more insightful. It seems that Logic 7 connects the HU and the stock amp using MOST(?) that's digital or Fiber Optic or something, so intercepting sub signal from the HU is not an option.
Rather, it seems Dr. Phuonger dude tapped the wires from stock amp to the subs, and added an additional sub in his trunk. Am I correct in my assumption that he's now got 3 subs (2 stock, 1 in his trunk) in his car?

Since I'm just looking to power the stock subs with this amp without adding another sub, my guess is that instead of simply tapping the sub wires, I need to cut the sub wires in the middle, add a line output converter (to the wires from the stock amp), connect that to Blaupunkt with a couple of RCA cables, and connect Blaupunkt to the subs with the remaining wires. Did I get the gist of it ok? (I'm hoping the sub wires simply unplug from the stock amp)

Now, what is this LVT (low voltage trigger) and is this something I absolutely need for the Blaupunkt set up as well?

Overall for this installation I'll need the following:
-2 Power wires for the battery and the ground (red and black preferred)
-1 Speaker to signal level converter with 2 channels, aka Aftermarket Amp Interface Adapter, or line output converter.
-4 speaker wires to connect the stock amp (signals to the subs) to the converter
-2 RCA cables from the converter to Blaupunkt.
-4 speaker wires to connect Blaupunkt to the cut wires to the subs (I guess I can plug the sub wires straight to Blaupunkt if they are long enough)
-1 LVT and 3 lines for LVT (maybe optional?)
-1 T-Tap to tap into a speaker wire for "trigger" (maybe optional?)

Also Crutchfield seems to recommend a fuse inbetween the power wire and the amp, did you add this as well? (it had a scary disclaimer of preventing your trunk from going up in flames)

I hope I'm not missing anything

Sorry about this long ass post. I won't blame anyone if I get completely ignored...

I'm glad somebody is committed and have done some serious homework.

Since the theme of the whole deal is to get the most bang for the buck, don't go out and spend $50 on an install kit!!

Measure the length of each wire that you'll need, which should not be more than 6' on any one of them. Visit an electronics supplies store, they usually have some scrap wires for sale (from returns or leftover from a spool-DON'T BUY USED CABLES). Another place to look might be local car stereo shop's install bay. 12GA on both the speaker and power should suffice, because of short distance and minimal power output.

To avoid any type of 'electrical complication', ground the amp at the nearest grounding point; do not run a separate wire from the bat. (save some wire here too...) The amp has fuse built-in, and, since the bat. is nearby, I don't feel the need for another fuse at the bat.

Input to the amp (signal for the converter): tap into the speaker output side of the factory amp. Be careful here: on mine (base 10-spk system), the amp has a NASTY plug that groups all the input and output wires together. Why is it 'NASTY', all wires are snuggly twisted in pairs; make sure to cut the right wires!!

RE: LVT (low voltage trigger)= amp turn-on. Just get the signal from the amp's 12+V or the CD changer's power. HOWEVER, make sure that particular 12+V turns off by itself eventually when the car is un-attended. This might differ on earlier models....I believe those earlier models actually have an amp turn-on wire.

btw: you only need a pair of speaker level into the converter, leave the others alone.

[ElectroVoice]

Mount the 'converter' as close to the amp as possible, that way 1)you avoid the possible weak link in the system- low level signals are vulnerable to possible interference. 2)Eliminate the need for expensive RCA cables- depending on the converter you buy, you might just need a male-male RCA adapter here, to connect to the amp.

Good luck. Hope to hear from any one of you here who successfully put this together.

[chemgeek]

Wow, ghetto wiring a $60 Blaupunkt amp into a >$30k car. God, and I thought I was crazy 15 years ago in highschool when I was doing it to a $5k late model honda.

[Lane]

Having brains saves money big time.

[T7R_Sky]

Originally Posted by chemgeek

Wow, ghetto wiring a $60 Blaupunkt amp into a >$30k car. God, and I thought I was crazy 15 years ago in highschool when I was doing it to a $5k late model honda.

You say ghetto wiring, I say awesome DIY

[hkkuf]

Originally Posted by ElectroVoice

Mount the 'converter' as close to the amp as possible, that way 1)you avoid the possible weak link in the system- low level signals are vulnerable to possible interference. 2)Eliminate the need for expensive RCA cables- depending on the converter you buy, you might just need a male-male RCA adapter here, to connect to the amp.

Good luck. Hope to hear from any one of you here who successfully put this together.

Thanks man. I really appreciate your help.
Blaupunkt arrived last night and I just ordered a Stringer SLOCII converter that the other dude used, and some wires from http://www.darvex.com/miva/merchant....ct_Code=SLOCII
I thought about just ordering one of those kits off ebay, but it looked like I'll have to do more cutting since the kits were designed for batteries under the hood in mind. The website sold wires by the foot, don't know if Stringer is a good brand or not, but decided to match the wires for the heck of it. Flat shipping ($6.99) and 5% off if you put in "ebay" as pomotional code.

Anyway, I'll keep you posted on how this goes. I probably won't get to work on it until next weekend, however...
Can't wait.

[hkkuf]

Originally Posted by chemgeek

Wow, ghetto wiring a $60 Blaupunkt amp into a >$30k car. God, and I thought I was crazy 15 years ago in highschool when I was doing it to a $5k late model honda.

Now, how is this helping anyone?

Of course, the MSRP of that $60 amp is $180, so you can pay $180 for it if that will make you feel better about putting it in your car.
Not that I'm suggesting you do it, of course. That would be crazy.

[chemgeek]

Originally Posted by hkkuf

Now, how is this helping anyone?

Of course, the MSRP of that $60 amp is $180, so you can pay $180 for it if that will make you feel better about putting it in your car.
Not that I'm suggesting you do it, of course. That would be crazy.

On a late model BMW I would say go for it, I am not against DIYs, in fact I love to do them. Where I get weary is around voiding the warranty. With iDrive and the stereo integrated into that, there is no question I am not going to tap into the wiring in my car as that would void the warranty of the entire computer system of the car and hence the car itself basically.

Now with the basic radio, that might be a completely different story. I am not sure how that is integrated into the car's computer system, nor do I understand what the subs sound like with a different sound system. But tapping into the wiring in a car that is heavily computerized is not a good idea when it is under warranty. It is like the Juice Box Turbo tuners for the 335i, warranty void, I can't believe people leave them in for service, but even then, there are traces it has been there. My neighbor is a BMW service guy and he can easily tell that there is a tuner in the car, he showed me a couple of examples. So don't think that becuase everyone on a forum is doing something makes it "ok" under warranty.

[hkkuf]

Chemgeek

I think I understand where you are coming from. Your original post seemed to focus on the price of Blaupunkt, but you were actually concerned about the intrusion into the wiring system.

Anyhow, I don't know what computer system is going to be compromised to void the warranty by a simple addition of an amplifier, whether it's $60000, $60 or even 60 cents at that. If anything it may damage the stock subwoofer, but I just don't see how Idrive is going to be harmed. I guess it can also harm the stock amp, but I seriously doubt even that.

If somehow my car gets f'd up and BMW blames the simple addition of an electronic component as the root cause of the failure of a >$30k ultimate driving machine, I'm willing to take BMW to a more reasonable audience to call its BS.

Thanks for your concern though.

[chemgeek]

I guess I am just timid when it comes to rewiring. I was referring more to the original posters addtion of a head unit to the car. I mean the amp to the subs is really easy, a little snip and rewire. Sounds simple and effective to me.

But hey its people like you guys that provide the DIYs that everyone uses, so more power to you, I have used a couple myself.

[T7R_Sky]

Has anyone else successfully completed this DIY? Maybe does anyone have a sound clip of the subs?

[T7R_Sky]

I have a question... How did you connect the amp so it would turn off when the car turned off? Did you use a LVT? Or somehow tap into the stock amp's power supply?

[ElectroVoice]

Originally Posted by T7R_Sky

I have a question... How did you connect the amp so it would turn off when the car turned off? Did you use a LVT? Or somehow tap into the stock amp's power supply?

While installing the Alpine headunit, I did a thorough testing in my '08 E90, then compared notes with a number of posts on this board, I've came to a conclusion that BMW had done some changes in 3 series' electronics scheme. In my non-L7 '08, there isn't a 12V turn-on signal to the factory amp; pretty much ALL of the 'constant 12+V' is centrally controlled, and shuts off, X minutes after inactivity (determined by removal of key from ignition or door shut). I recommend use the amp's 12V power for turn-on, to simplify the install. If you have an '07 or '06, read the Amp/Sub DIYs on this board, there should be a thin black turn-on wire going into the factory amp.

(To answer your question directly, I use the turn-on signal provided by Alpine headunit)

btw, even though it made aftermarket installes that much more difficult, but, I must compliment BMW for such a sophisticated electrical system!!

[T7R_Sky]

Originally Posted by ElectroVoice

In my non-L7 '08, there isn't a 12V turn-on signal to the factory amp; pretty much ALL of the 'constant 12+V' is centrally controlled, and shuts off, X minutes after inactivity (determined by removal of key from ignition or door shut). I recommend use the amp's 12V power for turn-on, to simplify the install. If you have an '07 or '06, read the Amp/Sub DIYs on this board, there should be a thin black turn-on wire going into the factory amp.

Ok. I dont 100% understand. But I do kinda understand. But the thing is I have an non-L7 '08 just like you. But since its an '08, does that mean I can't use the stock amp's 12v power? Or can I still use that?