[Goodneighbor]

Ok so I have been driven crazy with the rough vibrations that I get when I come to a stop at stop lights. I have noticed that the rough vibrations that I can feel through the steering wheel and seat only happen when the car starts to idle around 600rpms. Is this normal for my car to idle at 600 b/c it feels like the car is about to fall apart like it has 300,000 miles on it? Would it be possible to raise the idling to 750rpms which would alleviate all of the vibrations? Thanks for your help.

[e90pilot]

Yes, the N52 normally idles at around 600. If you want a few more RPM, turn the AC on. That bumps the idle speed up 150-200 rpm.

[Express]

check out your motor mounts. one bad one can cause such vibration.

other problems include poor compression in one of your cylinders, but that is unlikely.

[Goodneighbor]

I have taken it into two different shops and they have told me everything is running fine. I had them check the motor mounts and such and they said they are in good condition and were not loose. Is there a way to adjust the idle at all? I don't feel like driving an hour to the dealer for them to tell me they can't do that.

[mike-y]

when was the last time you changed your air filter, or cleaned your MAF?

[KDynastyE90]

I have the same issue with my 330i. It only happens during a cold start though and goes away after about 10mins of driving. When the RPM drops down to 600rpm at a stop, it's a loud vibration that sounds like it's coming from behind the steering wheel. I went to the dealer last week and they checked all the panels in that area, the exhaust, and motor mounts and everything was ok. They said they compared it to another 330i and "it was a normal idle sound." I guess i'll deal with it now that I at least know everything checked out ok.

[acontisr330i]

I'm having the same problem only whens its cold.It started after i had the car serviced. When I come to a stop the idle drops down to 600 i hear a vibration or grouling noise till the car is warm. Dealership said theres nothing wrong.

[Broder]

Same problem here. 2006/2007 330i EU-Spec with 66.000km (41k miles). Though some of my symptoms seem to be different. Here´s what happens:

When I have the A/C turned off (engine idling @ 600rpm on stops), I usually get a annoying vibration that you can feel mainly through the seats. It happens always, independent of the engine being hot or cold. Solution? Turn the A/C on, idle RPM increases and the vibration ceases.

Now the odd thing, when I turn the A/C on I´m sometimes able to hear a metallic noise coming from the engine bay and you can feel a little vibration from the interior of the car, although it´s a DIFFERENT vibration from the one that happens when you have the A/C turned off, the metallic vibration that happens with A/C on is much less pronounced and definitely better to live with then when the A/C is off (that´s why I always run with the A/C on, even when it´s not necessary). This metallic noise/vibration seems to be worse on hot days (or when the engine is hot) and less pronounced on cold days, so sometimes you won´t feel it at all while at other times it will bother me quite a lot. However, this metallic noise/vibration is also discrete, the engine itself tends to be noisier then that sound (that´s why, even from the outside, people usually can´t hear it), people that ride with me usually can´t hear it or feel it even when it´s there, I can hear it because I drive the car on a daily basis and have to live with it, so I´m naturally more sensible to my car´s noises and rattles then other people, this also means it´s hard to diagnose the problem in a BMW dealership.

Once, arriving home in a silent night, the sound was actually pronounced enough that I was able to hear it out of my car. I found it the easiest way to listen to it is to crouch and hear it placing my ear next to one of the front wheels (sounds louder on the driver´s side), it´s easier then trying to listen it from top of the engine bay (since engine noise is very loud from the top part), this metallic sound is definitely caused by two elements that are "touching" each other when they shouldn´t, although I can´t pinpoint exactly where it comes from. My first natural hint was that I probably had one or more engine mounts busted, and it was probably causing the engine´s downpipe or something alike to be in contact with something else, causing that metallic noise/vibration.

Well, the technician at BMW told me my engine mounts are fine, there´s nothing wrong. And pinpointing the metallic noise/vibration seems rather hard at BMW, specially since, for some reason, my car is always very well behaved at the dealership. Turning the A/C off seems to eliminate the metallic noise/vibration, but starts with another kind of vibration that´s apparently caused by N52´s excessively low idle RPM, and I thought "perhaps both of these vibrations are related, and fixing the 600rpm no-A/C vibration will probably also fix the metallic A/C vibration together", so I turned off the A/C and showed my car´s vibration to BMW´s technician. He agreed that the vibration seemed "wrong" and they checked the car for problems.

The next day they called me telling me the problem was the engine alternator. I thought "wtf, the alternator?". I said "there must be something wrong, the alternator can´t be doing this, it makes no sense", the technician then told me "yes, it´s weird I know, but your alternator seems to have internal loosen parts, that causes the excessive vibration when the A/C is off, once you turn the A/C on, the vibration ceases since the load caused by the A/C causes the alternator to work tighter".

Ok, since my car´s on extended warranty they changed the alternator for me. That was some weeks ago, did it solve? Not really, though some things did get better. For instance, whenever my car was idling with A/C on, sometimes the RPM would have a sudden drop (A/C compressor being activated perhaps?) for a few seconds, then go back to normal range. Since I´ve changed the alternator, I have noticed no drops or oscillations whatsoever during idle RPM. Idling with no A/C seems to be better also, but it´s still uncomfortable, and with A/C on I can still feel the metallic noise/vibration... gonna have to take the car back to the dealership when I have the time...

[Alpin3_F30]

i had this problem today. came out of nowhere when i stopped at a light i heard a slight flat line squeak coming from the engine bay and the car was idling very low and felt like it wanted to shut off but didnt. when i shut off the car and turned it back on it never came back. what could it be???

[Donny Rino]

So funny I have a 30k mile 330 with the same issue . At 600 rpm there is a rattle at 700 its gone.

[Machines]

Not to revive a thread that is too old, but this is happening to me too. Just got it back from routine service and a replaced valve cover gasket. Vibrations all through the car when idling at a stoplight. Things are rattling, can feel the vibration in the seat. Seems to go in waves when it happens. Idling at about 600 rpm. Still under CPO (2007 328i), so I might take it back in and see what they say.

[TehKhy]

I was having a similar issue but mine was idling around 550, even with AC on. I ran a bottle of good injector cleaner through and it cleaned up the idle. Was back to normal range with no issues. Might be worthwhile to try a cheap fix.

[Onefreakinuserid]

Same problem bout 6 months ago. Took it to reeves and they set my idle to " max idle speed". I normally idle at about 700 or a little over now even with AC off. Problem was fixed.

[capo1m]

same issue here except mine isnt as violent as yours it seems. i just have s ilght rattle sound coming but touch the gas peddle even the slightest and it clears it up

[Alpin3_F30]

so after months of the problem not returning i go to change my oil and after im done i drive half a mile and that same issue comes back. flat line whistle and engine tremor that only stops when im driving and when i come to a stop light it comes back. if i shut off the car everything is fine for another a few blocks then it returns. im going to have the injectors checked or cleaned see if that could be the issue here.

[Alpin3_F30]

Originally Posted by TehKhy

I was having a similar issue but mine was idling around 550, even with AC on. I ran a bottle of good injector cleaner through and it cleaned up the idle. Was back to normal range with no issues. Might be worthwhile to try a cheap fix.

did this problem ever come back? which injector cleaner did you use and how much was the fix?

Redline Fuel Injector cleaner is the best imo.

[33beto]

I had the dealer raise the idle 100 RPM's (A/C off) and 50 RPM's (A/C on)
perfect now.

Lou.

[mlifxs]

I have this "problem" too though I'm not too concerned. At a stop light, in P or D, will get a low level vibration, but it's not overwhelming. Put it in N, it goes away.

[azizsye1]

Originally Posted by Machines

Not to revive a thread that is too old, but this is happening to me too. Just got it back from routine service and a replaced valve cover gasket. Vibrations all through the car when idling at a stoplight. Things are rattling, can feel the vibration in the seat. Seems to go in waves when it happens. Idling at about 600 rpm. Still under CPO (2007 328i), so I might take it back in and see what they say.

hey were you ever able to find the solution to this problem?

[Stupenal]

I've been trying to figure out this problem since I bought a used e92 328i.

I replaced the tensioner and idler pulley, but was still getting this whirring wump wump noise at idle. The whirring noise was not consistent, it would make the sound probably for 20 seconds, then pause for a few seconds, and come back again. The sound was a deep whirring noise, almost gutteral, I wish I took a video of the before. Idle sits around 580-600 rpm. When driving or giving it gas, the sound goes away and the engine is silky smooth.

Putting my ear to the engine, the sound definitely was coming from the front, and I suspected it had to do with the drive belt and pulleys. The belt tensioner was sagging so that had to be replaced regardless. The noise was still there afterwards but the vibration was a bit less. These symptoms occurred anytime the engine was at idle and at around 600 rpms. On cold starts, no sounds since the engine hovers at 1000 rpm, but once the engine starts to settle, sound comes out.

Anyways I bought a used alternator since some folks (including one in this thread) said that was the problem. Lo and behold, engine now idles with no more whirring noise, and vibrations are 90% gone. It might be related to the alternator pulley, I'm not exactly sure since the used alternator came with its own pulley (not the idler pulley). The idle still sits at 600 rpm but the sound is definitely gone ( I had the engine idling for a good 20 min).

Other things I replaced includes new transmission fluid and tranny mounts (autotragic), new plugs, valve cover gasket, eccentric shaft sensor gasket, valve tonic gasket (all gaskets were leaking anyways), tightened the power steering pulley, fresh power steering fluid. All that was regular maintenance items but had no effect on the whirring noise.

Hope this helps someone chasing similar noises and vibrations.

[Hotter]

Originally Posted by azizsye1

hey were you ever able to find the solution to this problem?

Having the same exact vibrations on idle after changing valve cover and gasket. It idles at ~590rpm and vibrates seat and steering wheel. Why it could idle just a bit lower than 600 and vibrate? Did you solve it?