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      03-06-2012, 09:56 AM   #1
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Another Water Pump Issue

Hey guys on my way home last night I had the yellow then red then to yellow again engine overheat light come on, while I was pulling over I noticed that the temps were under 220 though. I popped the hood and check for leaks and checked the coolant overflow and it was warm and at level. The heat still worked all the way home also no over heating issues on the way home. The BT tool said is was code 2e82 Electric coolant pump cutoff, over-current. Reset the code and it came back. The cooling fans are running full blast of course. I've read that you can hear a pump going out but my car has always run quite with no noises and still does minus the cooling fans. Just wanna see if its fixible before I buy a $600 pump. Searched and found some information just not my exact situation though. Thanks for your help
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      03-06-2012, 11:47 AM   #2
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Looks like the pump by the code. The temps you see on the dash are oil temps, you can log your watertemps if youre tuned, or use the hidden menu. I wouldn't put my car into limp on purpose though.

Your pump is probably shot. I'd change the thermostat at the same time.
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      03-07-2012, 07:07 AM   #3
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I've been searching for best prices for water pumps. What is this:http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...___#fragment-3
Is this a rebuild kit? Can this be used to fix my water pump? Thanks guys
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      03-07-2012, 07:27 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 07bmw335iguy View Post
I've been searching for best prices for water pumps. What is this:http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...___#fragment-3
Is this a rebuild kit? Can this be used to fix my water pump? Thanks guys
That is a mechanical water pump... Not what you need.

I just priced this all out at ECStuning.com as I am most likely doing the job in the spring as preventative maintanance @59k miles. You need all this (with the exception of coolant... not sure if you need 2):

Name:  WATER PUMP.PNG
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      03-07-2012, 07:57 AM   #5
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Yeah figured it was to good to be true, oh well just another repair item for my 335i.
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      03-07-2012, 08:59 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zasquatch View Post
That is a mechanical water pump... Not what you need.

I just priced this all out at ECStuning.com as I am most likely doing the job in the spring as preventative maintanance @59k miles. You need all this (with the exception of coolant... not sure if you need 2):

Attachment 654608
good info.

yeah i just had mine replaced at the dealer late last year.....pump and thermostat.
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      03-07-2012, 09:10 AM   #7
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I'll be doing mine soon as well...preventative maintenance.
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      03-07-2012, 12:27 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigdaddycane View Post
I'll be doing mine soon as well...preventative maintenance.
Plenty of these pumps last the life of the car. Save your money.
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      03-07-2012, 01:05 PM   #9
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Plenty of these pumps last the life of the car. Save your money.
I will wait till i need it... I am at 85k miles no issues yet, other than adding about 1 cup of coolant every 8 months or so, is this normal? I never had to add coolant in the previous years thogh...but I dont see any leaks.
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      03-07-2012, 03:04 PM   #10
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I will wait till i need it... I am at 85k miles no issues yet, other than adding about 1 cup of coolant every 8 months or so, is this normal? I never had to add coolant in the previous years thogh...but I dont see any leaks.
Yup, that is normal.
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      03-07-2012, 04:31 PM   #11
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Yup, that is normal.
Cool..thank you!
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      03-07-2012, 06:57 PM   #12
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You can manually turn the pump on when the car is off. It's for bleeding procedures but in your case you can use it to troubleshoot.

Key in, and ignition on (don't turn on the car). Put the heater temperature to the highest setting and the fan at 1. Then press the gas pedal for exactly 10 seconds and let go. The pump will cycle on and off for the next 12 minutes. It's not a bad idea to hookup your battery to a charger during this procedure.

Pay attention to the sounds the pump produces.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Zasquatch View Post
You need all this (with the exception of coolant... not sure if you need 2):

Attachment 654608
Stock cooling system holds just over 2 gallons, so yes you do need 2 gallons but not 2 gallons of coolant. You mix it 50/50 with distilled water. Purchase 1 bottle of coolant, and 1 gallon jug of distilled water.

Last edited by neo_; 03-07-2012 at 07:03 PM..
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      03-07-2012, 07:24 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David1 View Post
Plenty of these pumps last the life of the car. Save your money.
You forgot to point out the BMW ones are the best of the lot, that's why every dealer seems to have the stocked up.

Sorry couldn't help. Still pissed mine barely lasted 32K miles. Changed thermostat for preventative since they were already pulling it out for the thermostat change. But yup very common repair at the dealerships and I very seriously doubt anyone with a pre-2010 car will have these last the life of the car.
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      03-08-2012, 01:14 AM   #14
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OP how many miles did you have on your car?
Im at 76K miles and about to drive 2500 miles next week with the 335i. This is my only concern about the trip.
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      03-08-2012, 06:02 AM   #15
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I have 97k and starting to run in to alot of issues with the car, so far nothing with the motor though.
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      03-08-2012, 06:06 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neo_ View Post
You can manually turn the pump on when the car is off. It's for bleeding procedures but in your case you can use it to troubleshoot.

Key in, and ignition on (don't turn on the car). Put the heater temperature to the highest setting and the fan at 1. Then press the gas pedal for exactly 10 seconds and let go. The pump will cycle on and off for the next 12 minutes. It's not a bad idea to hookup your battery to a charger during this procedure.

Pay attention to the sounds the pump produces.



Stock cooling system holds just over 2 gallons, so yes you do need 2 gallons but not 2 gallons of coolant. You mix it 50/50 with distilled water. Purchase 1 bottle of coolant, and 1 gallon jug of distilled water.

Also I have the BT tool and I know you can cut the pump on from there. Could I use it to trouble shoot or does the manual way the only way to do it?
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      03-09-2012, 02:07 PM   #17
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Well it looks like the pump hasn't fully gone out. Hooked up the bt tool and ran the actual values menu, pump cuts on and off. Once the coolant temp get around 80c the pump cuts on then cuts off after just a few seconds. Is this a sign that the pump is going out?
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      03-09-2012, 02:31 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neo_ View Post
You can manually turn the pump on when the car is off. It's for bleeding procedures but in your case you can use it to troubleshoot.

Key in, and ignition on (don't turn on the car). Put the heater temperature to the highest setting and the fan at 1. Then press the gas pedal for exactly 10 seconds and let go. The pump will cycle on and off for the next 12 minutes. It's not a bad idea to hookup your battery to a charger during this procedure.

Pay attention to the sounds the pump produces.
what kind of sound is expected if coolant pump is going bad?
i hear some sort of pump/fan when i first start the car for a minute or two. not sure which pump it is.
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      03-30-2012, 08:02 PM   #19
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what was the outcome?
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      04-02-2012, 07:15 AM   #20
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Bad water pump, ended up getting it at the dealer for 570 after taxes with new bolts. Took it to a local shop who installed it for 200.
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