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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > N54 Turbo Engine / Drivetrain / Exhaust Modifications - 335i > OEM like Turbo Options



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      04-16-2018, 03:40 PM   #23
GEOS07335i
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I just looked at FCP EURO and ECS the price is only for ONE TURBO not for both. So your looking at over $1600 for the pair.
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      04-16-2018, 03:45 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by GEOS07335i View Post
I just looked at FCP EURO and ECS the price is only for ONE TURBO not for both. So your looking at over $1600 for the pair.
What turbos do you refer to? Stock mitsu turbos 1500 for 2. CHRA is sold as a pair from 399
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      04-16-2018, 07:40 PM   #25
GEOS07335i
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Originally Posted by Meatos View Post
What turbos do you refer to? Stock mitsu turbos 1500 for 2. CHRA is sold as a pair from 399
I updated the links in the first post. I didn't see a combo price just the two individuals front and rear.
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      04-17-2018, 01:26 AM   #26
E90Crack
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You can always buy used turbos with low mileage, I see plenty of great deals on here from time to time.
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      04-17-2018, 01:32 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GEOS07335i View Post
I updated the links in the first post. I didn't see a combo price just the two individuals front and rear.
Front 709,95 https://www.ecstuning.com/b-mitsubis...1657649289~va/

Rear 789,95 https://www.ecstuning.com/b-mitsubis...1657649290~va/

It does say front and rear
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      04-17-2018, 01:52 AM   #28
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Seems like a good option as well. It's $1500 and one of the downsides for me is

WE DO NOT OFFER ADAPTERS TO FIT STOCK, MISHIMOTO, DINAN, HPF, PHOENIX, OR ANY INTERCOOLER WITH THE CLIP STYLE INLET

This rules me out as I have a CLIP style inlet.
That's for our hot side charge pipe (turbo outlet). The "inlet" we're referring to is the inlet to the FMIC. Just use your stock turbo outlet (from compressor discharge to FMIC inlet) and you'll be fine. Not a problem with the non-GC family (OEM/Stage 1/Stage 2/2+).

Any q's... feel free to ping me. Email is always fastest.

Chris
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      04-17-2018, 08:21 AM   #29
blau iii
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does FCP Euro price match? They're about $150 more expensive but that warranty...
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      04-17-2018, 11:31 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Meatos View Post
does FCP Euro price match? They're about $150 more expensive but that warranty...
Yes, they do price match. Just contact their customer service team. I've done so in the past, and seriously, the warranty is worth it.
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      04-17-2018, 11:38 AM   #31
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Yes, they do price match. Just contact their customer service team. I've done so in the past, and seriously, the warranty is worth it.
wow, that's killer! I think it seals things for me then.
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      04-17-2018, 11:41 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GEOS07335i View Post
I think my OEM turbos are on the way out. I keep getting smoke on cold start where engine idles below 1000 rpm. It goes away after a little driving. No water in the oil. It's not blue smoke. If I had to guess it's blown seal in the rear turbo. I see a little oil on my DP's. VCG has been replaced.

Anyway looking for a cost effective alternative to the OEM's Are there any options in the $1000-$1500 range.

What's the typical cost to install?

The only options that I have found are:


Are there another options?My intentions would be to add inlets/outlets and stg2 LPFP on e40. I believe I already have the other supporting mods: FMIC,DP's,CP,DCI, new plugs, coils walnut blasting, upgraded PCV.

I'm assuming at this point I'd be maxing out the auto trans, fuel system and turbo's efficiency.
Not sure if anyone mentioned it yet but Pure Stage 1 should be considered in this thread.

I can't link back to my site in non classified sections otherwise I'd send a link.
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      04-17-2018, 11:46 AM   #33
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wow, that's killer! I think it seals things for me then.
Just curious what makes you think you need new turbos? 30ff codes, waste gate rattle, boost leak, lots of smoke out the exhaust? What are some of the other symptoms. It seems like with so many variables one could easily mistake something for something else. That's an expensive repair you plan on doing this your self? I'm actually dreading having to do this sounds like a lot of labor. Will probably take me two weeks a little every day. Were you also going to get new studs and gaskets? Tag on another $200.

I still need to do a little more diagnosing before I pull the trigger on anything.
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      04-17-2018, 11:50 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GEOS07335i View Post
Just curious what makes you think you need new turbos? 30ff codes, waste gate rattle, boost leak, lots of smoke out the exhaust? What are some of the other symptoms. It seems like with so many variables one could easily mistake something for something else. That's an expensive repair you plan on doing this your self? I'm actually dreading having to do this sounds like a lot of labor. Will probably take me two weeks a little every day. Were you also going to get new studs and gaskets? Tag on another $200.

I still need to do a little more diagnosing before I pull the trigger on anything.
I'm not pulling the trigger tomorrow but know with how old my car is, it's coming at some point. I am not boosting correctly. Currently before the car is warm, I'm only hitting 4psi and it drops off at 3k rpm. Once the car is warm, I'm hitting 8psi on map2 (Jb4), it drops off at 3k and then picks back up after 4k.

I've done all my vacume lines, have a dedicated line from the manifold to my bov. New Boost Solenoids are being delivered tomorrow, I'm hoping that fixes my problem.
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      04-17-2018, 05:24 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GEOS07335i View Post
I think my OEM turbos are on the way out. I keep getting smoke on cold start where engine idles below 1000 rpm. It goes away after a little driving. No water in the oil. It's not blue smoke. If I had to guess it's blown seal in the rear turbo. I see a little oil on my DP's. VCG has been replaced.

Anyway looking for a cost effective alternative to the OEM's Are there any options in the $1000-$1500 range.

What's the typical cost to install?

The only options that I have found are:

turbolabamerica Option: http://turbolabofamerica.com/bmw-335...grade-options/ $1050

RB Option http://www.rbturbo.com/products/335i/335i $999

VTT Option http://performance.vargasturbo.com/bmw-products/n54/

ECS OE Turbo Option: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-mitsubis...1657649289~va/ $709 each doesn't say if this is the front or the rear. So $1418 for the pair.

FCPEuroOE Turbo Option: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...hi-11657649290 $849 for the rear you still need the front https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/clo...nt-11657593015 front turbo is $819 so $1660 for both. These are the mitsubishi the OEM's are quite a bit more.


Are there another options?My intentions would be to add inlets/outlets and stg2 LPFP on e40. I believe I already have the other supporting mods: FMIC,DP's,CP,DCI, new plugs, coils walnut blasting, upgraded PCV.

I'm assuming at this point I'd be maxing out the auto trans, fuel system and turbo's efficiency.
Rob Beck 1's would be $1599.00.

http://www.rbturbo.com/products/335i/335i

If you pay cash, money order, he might cut you a deal.
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      04-18-2018, 10:44 PM   #36
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What is best option for stock turbo replacement with stock inlet/outlet? My turbos are failing and I am not looking for huge hp increase.
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      04-18-2018, 11:15 PM   #37
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My advice is don't borrow trouble. Your turbos don't sound like they're giving indication of failure. Many, many cars have some rattle. Fix your injector issues first and any oil leaks. Oil on the downpipes isn't from failed turbos but an oil leak that's dripping down the engine. If ~400whp is enough and reliability is key, new OEM turbos are the way to go. My car has 163k and has been tuned since day one. Zero rattle, zero oil consumption. They last a long time.
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