[CALWATERBOY]

Originally Posted by gs135is

Thanks for the information. I just wanted to ask if you by chance have the measurements to the rear headlight lever that you created?

Mine did not come with the fabricated one and I plan on doing what you have to make my current one work.

It's still working - I eyeballed the fabrication and used tin snips/pliers/drill. Little off, needed headlight adjustment after. Done!

[CALWATERBOY]

Originally Posted by mlifxs

Now that you've had it for awhile, how do you like your Ground Control setup? I sent you a PM if you'd rather respond there. I noticed earlier in this thread that this is strictly a street car. Are you still happy with the ride? Anything you would change?

Still rewarding....

Ride's bit firmer at low speed; smoother otherwise. Handling t-i-g-h-t! With ground control's height adjustment can configure from compliant w/controlled lean to eye poppin' grip. Good alignment is key.

Believe I'll keep it.

[Casca]

Originally Posted by CALWATERBOY

Still rewarding....

Ride's bit firmer at low speed; smoother otherwise. Handling t-i-g-h-t! With ground control's height adjustment can configure from compliant w/controlled lean to eye poppin' grip. Good alignment is key.

Believe I'll keep it.

Have you tried adjusting the firmness? I had mine set at 3 all around since 2010/11 and it felt firm, but fine for street use. 3 months ago, I dialed the rears up to 4 for stiffness. It was notably worse for street use. Dialed it back to 2. Still feels firm, but even better for street. Fronts were never changed. Think maybe I'll start messing around with it.

[Lotus99]

Originally Posted by CALWATERBOY

Appendix A - Wheel normal ride height

Ride height is measured from the top of the wheel well fender flange to the bottom of the wheel rim.

Front Stock Values:

16" wheel -- 22.99 in -- 584 mm _____________MINE
17" wheel -- 23.58 in -- 599 mm
18" wheel -- 24.09 in -- 612 mm _____ 23.5 in / 598 mm
19" wheel -- 24.60 in -- 625 mm

Rear Stock Values:

16" wheel -- 22.24 in -- 565 mm
17" wheel -- 22.83 in -- 580 mm
18" wheel -- 23.35 in -- 593 mm _____ 22.875 in / 582 mm
19" wheel -- 23.82 in -- 605 mm

Hi Cal, first off, an amazing guide - thanks. Just measured my car's ride heights, in anticipation of upgrading to KW V2's. I've got a 2008 E93 on stock 18's with about 40,000 miles on it, just that I'm running Michelin PSS tires in stock staggered sizes instead of the RFT's the car came with.

Where do you get the above numbers?

Mine seem to be about 15 mm lower in the front and about 10 mm lower in the rear. What should I take away from that?

----------------------------------------------------------------------------

Lastly, do you have any advice for my shop (they've never done a coilover install on an E93) for the adjustments I'll end up doing? Should we just leave off the panels in the trunk for a couple of weeks while I play with the settings?

How hard are they to take off and put back on, in case I get them to button it all up completely after the install, and then later decide I need to change some of the settings? I understand the V2's rebound are adjusted from the top.

for your help.

[CALWATERBOY]

Originally Posted by Lotus99

Hi Cal, first off, an amazing guide - thanks. Just measured my car's ride heights, in anticipation of upgrading to KW V2's. I've got a 2008 E93 on stock 18's with about 40,000 miles on it, just that I'm running Michelin PSS tires in stock staggered sizes instead of the RFT's the car came with.

Where do you get the above numbers?

Mine seem to be about 15 mm lower in the front and about 10 mm lower in the rear. What should I take away from that?

----------------------------------------------------------------------------

Lastly, do you have any advice for my shop (they've never done a coilover install on an E93) for the adjustments I'll end up doing? Should we just leave off the panels in the trunk for a couple of weeks while I play with the settings?

How hard are they to take off and put back on, in case I get them to button it all up completely after the install, and then later decide I need to change some of the settings? I understand the V2's rebound are adjusted from the top.

for your help.

Numbers are straight from Bentley.

Truth be known, I didn't change the setup as received from Ground Control - just installed to torque; made pedal meet metal.

Fronts came pre-assembled, an easy install. Rear springs & shocks went in with total suspension replacement but don't expect the install to be difficult. Below, fairly easy - take your time. Worst part's the top shock nut install....a bitch to torque correctly! If you know where I can buy a deep enough torque wrench attachment for that, lemme know.

Still have a claw wrench down in there....gotta get it out some day, boroscope + mechanic's fingers. Dang!

------------------------------------------------

One thing: Top adjust for front shocks a problem with stock tower brace. I installed M3 brace w/circular tower mount - leaves space in the middle open. Another install involving creative language, was a week figuring out how to get the center casting in, working when time allowed.

[Lotus99]

Originally Posted by CALWATERBOY

I raised the top part way, and all was revealed.



I cut a hole....



I discovered: WIRES!

Big danger there....do you see the abraded covering? Luckily, though I didn't know about them until after removing the cutout section, none were damaged. But forewarned is forearmed: be aware of this!

.
.
.
KW V2 INSTALL COMMENTS AND QUESTIONS

REAR

So I had my KW V2's installed at a shop a couple of weeks ago, and we've left out the inside trunk trim panels out for now, in case I want to adjust things before buttoning it all back up.

I took a pic of what it looks like right now, where the OEM rubber cover sits over the rebound valve, as I'm toying with cutting a hole in the trunk panel above it, so that I could adjust it after the panel's back in, but I'm not so sure it will be easy to do with that wire loom covering half the hole...

Did you end up shoving over the harness somehow? It looks like your valve is accessible from the top even with the trim installed.

Also, I was hoping to just cut a 3 sided square, so I could sort of have a flap that I could open to access the valve, then close back up, but this trim is not soft like carpet, so I don't think that plan will work either. If I'm going to cut a hole, looks like we'll have to put a rubber cap on it, which maybe isn't a big deal, since it shouldn't be visible from inside the trunk I don't think.
.
.
FRONT

Luckily, the front will be easier to adjust, if I decide to do so from time to time, though with the OEM strut brace, it looks like I'll have to unbolt it to be able to reach the valve. So that's another good reason to go with the M3 Strut Tower Brace in the front, given it is open in the center of the tower mounting point!
.

[CALWATERBOY]

Originally Posted by Lotus99

Did you end up shoving over the harness somehow? It looks like your valve is accessible from the top even with the trim installed.

Luckily, the front will be easier to adjust, if I decide to do so from time to time, though with the OEM strut brace, it looks like I'll have to unbolt it to be able to reach the valve. So that's another good reason to go with the M3 Strut Tower Brace in the front, given it is open in the center of the tower mounting point!
.

No, when the hole was cut the loom was where you see it in my pic.

With M3 brace tower mounts, there's no problem at all accessing shock adjustment and adjusting camber plates - very pleasing. Most say the brace is strictly optional - only mild effect. I wouldn't know as everything was installed at the same time, but am very happy with the result, and suspension's ability to change character.

Adjustable ride height means adjustable ride quality. Attention should be paid to camber - the higher the spring preload and/or rate, the less neg camber's needed as you might imagine. Have not found a guide on that, it's a matter of personal preference and a DIY alignment setup is best to experiment.

[Lotus99]

Originally Posted by CALWATERBOY

No, when the hole was cut the loom was where you see it in my pic.

With M3 brace tower mounts, there's no problem at all accessing shock adjustment and adjusting camber plates - very pleasing. Most say the brace is strictly optional - only mild effect. I wouldn't know as everything was installed at the same time, but am very happy with the result, and suspension's ability to change character.

Adjustable ride height means adjustable ride quality. Attention should be paid to camber - the higher the spring preload and/or rate, the less neg camber's needed as you might imagine. Have not found a guide on that, it's a matter of personal preference and a DIY alignment setup is best to experiment.

Last night I drove around playing with different rebound settings for the front & rear.

It was pretty easy to adjust the front, even with the OEM strut bar in place, as the knob is easy to slide under the bar. No need to remove it. If I had to use a 2 mm Allen key, it wouldn't be possibly I think.



For the rear, with the trim out, it was easy to remove the rubber cap in place, and reach the valve, but I don't know if just with a 4 inch hole in the trim I could remove the rubber cap each time and get the adjustment knob on the valve...

The tough thing though is that I tried to figure out what setting I want, and I have no clue! I guess I'll go as hard as I can, without feeling it's too rough. Though even 4 clicks from hard still didn't feel too bad! LOL.

[GabeS]

Awesome, hard to find but glad I finally did! I need to retighten my rear coilover upper mounting point since they are making noise and I have been putting it off because I didnt want to pull all the trunk liner pieces out and pulll the trunk guides, so much work.. I might just cut holes in the carpet too.

[phubar]

Great DIY. Do you know if stock springs will fit the m3 links?

[Gohan335i7]

This thread changed my n54 suspension's life!! More people must know about this stuff!!🤘 When people ask me about mods, I always tell them suspension, suspension, suspension first!! But to each their own,some people want a bunch of power first. Thank you Cal, for this is priceless...

[CALWATERBOY]

.





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[hellokitty]

Any updates cal? how is everything holding up??

[Gohan335i7]

I would like some updates also!!•*^,^*•!! Anything else added?😮🙌 Literally one of the most important threads ever made! Btw, Have you heard of the Drexler LSD? Is there Anything that makes it better than the Wavetrac or Quafe?! Maybe better quality parts or something?! I know it is made in Germany and costs around 2800-3000$. (Jeeeezzze). I was wondering maybe you have had personal experience with that brand of LSD or a friend may have?!

[CALWATERBOY]

Originally Posted by hellokitty

Any updates cal? how is everything holding up??

Don't drive it nearly as much as couple o'years back. May be in love with daughter's chipped Ram diesel 3/4 ton - every option known to man, and then some. Pulls STRONG above 80 mph, feels effortless. Nobody argues w/heavy duty pickups, neither.

But it's not a convertible. Can't get around that....Summer's here!

[CALWATERBOY]

Originally Posted by Gohan335i7

I would like some updates also!!•*^,^*•!! Anything else added?😮🙌 Literally one of the most important threads ever made! Btw, Have you heard of the Drexler LSD? Is there Anything that makes it better than the Wavetrac or Quafe?! Maybe better quality parts or something?! I know it is made in Germany and costs around 2800-3000$. (Jeeeezzze). I was wondering maybe you have had personal experience with that brand of LSD or a friend may have?!

Know nothing about Drexler.....

No changes planned - I like my ride very much. Moving to -2.5°+ camber all wheels absolutely wonderful, btw. Gimongous boost in handling competence moving limits so far out that I haven't reached 'em. A kick: Not bothering to slow way down to turn at intersection - sometimes see others struggling to match. High camber makes the whole thing sa-mooth....

If there's an update, it's that Yellows may benefit from rebuild this year. Also time for a nut blast.

[Gohan335i7]

Thanks for the update! Cal rules!!🤘Get that blast done ASAP! & looks like I might have to do more research about this drexler. I'll let you know what comes up. Thx again Cal!

[330xtrai]

this is an awesome thread I'm surprise I haven't seen it before .good work

[whyzee125]

Wow! I know this is old but it has to be the best DIY I've ever read. Thank you so much for your contribution.

[BB_cuda]

Hi Cal - I was wondering about the GC camber plates in conjunction with the black aluminum ends of the M3 strut brace. Can you possibly elaborate if there were any complications using the two parts together? I have the M3 strut brace but completely factory otherwise. I did send you a PM today (over on other site) as well about ride height. thanks

[feuer]

Originally Posted by BB_cuda

Hi Cal - I was wondering about the GC camber plates in conjunction with the black aluminum ends of the M3 strut brace. Can you possibly elaborate if there were any complications using the two parts together? I have the M3 strut brace but completely factory otherwise. I did send you a PM today (over on other site) as well about ride height. thanks

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?p=17940488
I had no issues.

[BB_cuda]

Originally Posted by feuer

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?p=17940488
I had no issues.

Thanks, Feuer! I now understand that all of the camber plate is beneath the strut tower and only the black aluminum casting from M3 strut brace is on top of it.

How does one determine the rate of springs needed? I will be running the E90/E92 sways, black powerflex SF bushes, purple powerflex diff bushes, the VWetish diff lock down kit (for large diff), M3 links front and back, and Bimmerworld adjustable non M E9X toe links.
EDIT: I reread and didn't state I'm interested in same GC kit that Cal used but he used 430F/650R on his E93. I'm modding a 335d but it has lost some of its weight in exhaust and DEF tank deletes.