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      01-12-2017, 03:05 PM   #1
Major_90
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Code Help

Took the D to my newborn's doc appointment this morning and had the "your vehicle is going into limp mode warning" come up after a minute of driving. There are no SES lights or Check Engine lights though...

I plugged in my schwaben and pulled the following codes:

4D16/not present - SCR systemm efficiency
46B7/not present - DDE: Swirl-flap actuator
40E9/not present - DDE: Exhaust-gas recirculation controller position control
4C9F/not present - DDE: Exhast-gas recirculation valve plausibility

I also have had this one for a while and can't figure it out:

A559/not present - Instrument cluster Power supply has been switched off (closed-circuit current cutoff relay).

Any thoughts what is going on here? I am still under the CA Emissions 7 year/70k warranty so if this a good excuse to get the dealer to do some work, I am down.

Thanks folks!

Last edited by Major_90; 01-12-2017 at 03:33 PM..
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      01-12-2017, 03:39 PM   #2
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The EGR is definitely covered under the CA warranty and it sounds like that may have failed. Its been so long since Ive seen a CBU report I have forgotten what the codes are but maybe its CBU?
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      01-12-2017, 11:39 PM   #3
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Has CBU been done on this car at all?
I'm just thinking a Swirl Flap and EGR code together potentially points to CBU. But limp mode is strange as I thought you generally get a SES but no limp.
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      01-13-2017, 02:00 PM   #4
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Thanks both. CBU was done at 35k. I am currently at 63k.

Hoping this isn't CBU.

What's weird is that it said it was going into limp mode, but I don't feel like it did. I also haven't gotten the warning again after driving it a couple more times.

It was a cold morning ~30F with it having been ~20F overnight. Also I didn't drive the car for about a week.

The codes are still stored.

Do you think it's worth bringing to the dealer to see if it is under warranty? Or should I investigate further first?
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      01-13-2017, 02:28 PM   #5
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It shouldn't have gotten CBU that fast, unless you do most of your driving in town. That said, those codes do all point to CBU. What's throwing me for a loop is the SCR code. I really can't make heads or tails of it. As much as I hate to say it, it looks like you may need to get it looked at by a professional.
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      01-13-2017, 03:09 PM   #6
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Just spitballing here - EGR valve got stuck, which triggered those codes, and without EGR on a cold morning some reading in the SCR system wasn't where it was supposed to be, which tripped the SCR code.

Not too sure about the swirl flap actuator.

If it was me I'd reset them and see if they come back.

Do you still have a CEL?
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      01-13-2017, 05:29 PM   #7
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Is it worth clearing the codes? I don't have a CEL so SES. My only worry is that if I clear it, I cannot bring it to the dealer and have them warranty it.

Question for you folks, if this was a one time thing due to the egr being cold, will I be stuck with the bill if I bring it to the dealer?
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      01-13-2017, 06:43 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Major_90 View Post
Is it worth clearing the codes? I don't have a CEL so SES. My only worry is that if I clear it, I cannot bring it to the dealer and have them warranty it.

Question for you folks, if this was a one time thing due to the egr being cold, will I be stuck with the bill if I bring it to the dealer?
Best to ask dealer. Practices vary and while some may let it "slide" other may take advantage.
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      01-13-2017, 07:03 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Major_90 View Post
Is it worth clearing the codes? I don't have a CEL so SES. My only worry is that if I clear it, I cannot bring it to the dealer and have them warranty it.

Question for you folks, if this was a one time thing due to the egr being cold, will I be stuck with the bill if I bring it to the dealer?
Don't clear them. If you took in your car with then cleared. All they will do is check for faults and maybe road test it before handing it back to you. I worked at the dealer for many years and I always hated it that customers would clear faults because it was a waste of time for the technican.
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      01-13-2017, 10:15 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 335dlci View Post
Don't clear them. If you took in your car with then cleared. All they will do is check for faults and maybe road test it before handing it back to you. I worked at the dealer for many years and I always hated it that customers would clear faults because it was a waste of time for the technican.
Just curious, but there's often cases of codes being cleared and never coming back. I mean I get clearing the codes and immediately going to a dealership or shop is a bad idea, but say I clear the codes and drive awhile, and if the codes come back then I go to a shop. That's fine, right? Or am I missing something?
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      01-22-2017, 01:23 PM   #11
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Drove another few hundred miles and no SES or check engine light. I'm hoping it was a one time thing.

I'll leave the codes and tell them when we do the airbag recall.
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      03-20-2017, 03:18 PM   #12
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Had the SES light pop up and disappear a few times in the last two weeks. We are heading to the dealership. Hopefully this is covered under the emission warranty.
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      03-20-2017, 04:59 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Major_90 View Post
Had the SES light pop up and disappear a few times in the last two weeks. We are heading to the dealership. Hopefully this is covered under the emission warranty.
Considering all 4 of those codes are related to emissions, if they don't cover it under the warranty, I'd raise hell.
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      03-28-2017, 02:44 PM   #14
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Hi folks,

The dealer is saying the EGR valve needs to be replaced and it is NOT covered under the emission warranty... Does that seem right? Something smells fishy...

Yozh any thoughts?
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      03-28-2017, 02:58 PM   #15
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EGR is definitely an emission component and should be covered under the 7/70. I know there was a document floating around somewhere that outlined the details. I would check first though. Then if it is covered, I would push back on them.

CBU in 30K miles is possible though. For some reason I think just trying to clean the EGR will solve your problem although temporarily. Check if EGR rod moves on start-up. Pop the plastic cover and have someone start the car. At least that will confirm it is functional. EGR and swirl flaps have positional feedback, so CBU on those two or around will start throwing codes. If they make you pay for the EGR valve I have a spare one, but cleaning your old one should be good provided it works.
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      03-28-2017, 03:14 PM   #16
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Yozh Here is a pic you posted of the emission warranty. Looks like only the exhaust cooler is covered. I'm guessing that does not include the valve right?
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