VANOS Solenoid Teardown / Repair

aymen_a22 · 12-21-2016, 02:58 PM

Since my N52 E90 developed a vanos issue I tried the usual cleaning procedure to try and sort out the problem. After the repair failed twice I finally decided to get a new solenoid valve.

I then decided to pull the old unit apart to see how it works, and I discovered that it is remarkably simple and easy to do.

Please note that I take no responsibility for your actions if you use the information I provide, I am simply documenting the information for anyone who might be interested.

1:
There are two metal tabs on the base of the electrical connector. I used a screw driver to pry up the tabs and then pliers to bend them out the way.

2:
Use a flat screw driver to pry the electrical connector assembly out of the housing.

3:
Clean the assembly with your favourite cleaning product. I used thinners that evaporate leaving no residue.

4:
Use an air line (high pressure) to blast any particles out of the unit. This should also remove any remaining cleaning products.

5:
Carefully re-assemble the unit and bend the tabs back down to fasten the electrical connector to the body.

I hope this is helpful for someone out there. I have not yet put mine back in the engine but I will probably ring home swap it with the old one that I didn't replace to see if it worked.

kkasson · 12-21-2016, 09:56 PM

Nice job. How did the metal tabs feel...do you think they'll be likely to break when bending them back or did they feel solid?

Looks simple enough that a thorough cleaning should get it working well again. Looking forward to see what happens you put it back in the car.

aymen_a22 · 12-22-2016, 12:45 AM

Thanks very much.

The tabs seem fairly robust. They probably wouldn't take being done too many times though.

One thing I noticed was that the unit was filled with oil when I took it apart, I believe it is supposed to be flooded as there is a second o-ring inside the unit.

I also noticed that after cleaning and reassembling the unit, it rattled when I shook it. The new unit also rattled so it much be a good thing.

My fault was only "stiff or mechanically sticking" so may well be sorted.

d3drturner · 05-14-2018, 09:17 PM

Not getting any error codes but I took mine apart as well because I thought it would be easier to clean. It was completely dry inside and it did not come apart any further than the top connector with black cylinder coming off. The silver metal cap inside seemed quite solidly attached. I tugged on it with pliers but it didn't budge. I didn't want to break it so I put it back together and tested it with 12 volts; plunger jumped up and down about a quarter inch.

12-21-2016, 02:58 PM	#1
aymen_a22 Private 29 Rep 71 Posts Drives: 2006 BMW 330i M-Sport Join Date: Nov 2015 Location: UK iTrader: (0)	Since my N52 E90 developed a vanos issue I tried the usual cleaning procedure to try and sort out the problem. After the repair failed twice I finally decided to get a new solenoid valve. I then decided to pull the old unit apart to see how it works, and I discovered that it is remarkably simple and easy to do. Please note that I take no responsibility for your actions if you use the information I provide, I am simply documenting the information for anyone who might be interested. 1: There are two metal tabs on the base of the electrical connector. I used a screw driver to pry up the tabs and then pliers to bend them out the way. 2: Use a flat screw driver to pry the electrical connector assembly out of the housing. 3: Clean the assembly with your favourite cleaning product. I used thinners that evaporate leaving no residue. 4: Use an air line (high pressure) to blast any particles out of the unit. This should also remove any remaining cleaning products. 5: Carefully re-assemble the unit and bend the tabs back down to fasten the electrical connector to the body. I hope this is helpful for someone out there. I have not yet put mine back in the engine but I will probably ring home swap it with the old one that I didn't replace to see if it worked. Attached Images
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12-21-2016, 09:56 PM	#2
kkasson Lieutenant 187 Rep 589 Posts Drives: 07 BMW 328i, 08 BMW 528i Join Date: Jun 2015 Location: CA iTrader: (0)	Nice job. How did the metal tabs feel...do you think they'll be likely to break when bending them back or did they feel solid? Looks simple enough that a thorough cleaning should get it working well again. Looking forward to see what happens you put it back in the car.
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12-22-2016, 12:45 AM	#3
aymen_a22 Private 29 Rep 71 Posts Drives: 2006 BMW 330i M-Sport Join Date: Nov 2015 Location: UK iTrader: (0)	Thanks very much. The tabs seem fairly robust. They probably wouldn't take being done too many times though. One thing I noticed was that the unit was filled with oil when I took it apart, I believe it is supposed to be flooded as there is a second o-ring inside the unit. I also noticed that after cleaning and reassembling the unit, it rattled when I shook it. The new unit also rattled so it much be a good thing. My fault was only "stiff or mechanically sticking" so may well be sorted.
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05-14-2018, 09:17 PM	#4
d3drturner New Member 0 Rep 10 Posts Drives: 335xi Join Date: Sep 2011 Location: Cbus, Ohio iTrader: (0)	interesting Not getting any error codes but I took mine apart as well because I thought it would be easier to clean. It was completely dry inside and it did not come apart any further than the top connector with black cylinder coming off. The silver metal cap inside seemed quite solidly attached. I tugged on it with pliers but it didn't budge. I didn't want to break it so I put it back together and tested it with 12 volts; plunger jumped up and down about a quarter inch.
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