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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
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play in lower ball joints
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11-13-2016, 01:16 PM | #1 |
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play in lower ball joints
hi all, Ive noticed some play in the lower ball joints of my 5 series. while it doesnt really affect driveability, i know i will have to replace them sooner or later. does it make any sense to replace just the lower ball joints, or should i just go ahead and replace the control arms as well? thanks in advance
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11-13-2016, 07:30 PM | #2 | |
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Drives: 2007 Black/Black 335i e90
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11-14-2016, 01:12 PM | #4 |
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update
I currently have 67,000 miles.. for now, since its not affecting driveability I guess i will save this fix for later. does it make sense to change just ball joints? i dont see any point in changing control arms if my current ones are fine, whether the labour is the same or not..
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11-14-2016, 01:31 PM | #5 | |
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Usually it's the just one, but when one goes, the other follows. If it were me, I'd do the bushings that connect the large control arm to the subframe, which have special toe bolts. That way all 4 connections to the large control arms are done. Basically, the ball joints connect the large control arm in the front and there is a bushing with a special toe bolt that connects the rear of control arm to the subframe. The bushings with the special toe bolt have been known to go in e90's. |
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11-14-2016, 03:35 PM | #6 | |
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front lower ball joint
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11-14-2016, 06:19 PM | #7 | ||
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So, you need to figure out if it's a tie rod or a control arm. If it's a control arm then, I'd just replace all 4 control arms to be honest. If it's a tie rod, just replace both tie rods. At 67k, that's what I'd do. http://bmwfans.info/parts-catalog/F1...se/front_axle/ https://www.fcpeuro.com/BMW-parts/52...53&m=20&page=1 On a 5 series, you won't be able to get M3 control arms like you can on an e90. You can save money by getting Lemforder vs BMW. Lemforder is the OEM provider. |
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11-15-2016, 06:53 PM | #8 |
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I'm going to be replacing the arms in my wife's 335 this winter as it has a bit of a shudder under breaking. It has 105k mileage and definitely getting new struts, shocks, tie rods and what not to tighten it up a bit.
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11-15-2016, 07:56 PM | #9 |
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I would inspect each part and ensure you replace only what needs to be changed. make sure you also change bushings. also.. she has a 335i. does she need this power lol? im sure a 328i would be more then sufficient?
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11-15-2016, 09:16 PM | #10 |
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@6IX-F10-N52 Not only that you are poluting the suspension section by starting separate threads on same issue but you are sexist too! She might be a way better driver than yourself for whom even 518i would have been more than enough.
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11-16-2016, 11:55 AM | #11 |
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you're still mad that i made two posts for the same issue? how am i being sexist by mentioning that a 328i is a more reliable, efficient choice for someone who I doubt uses all that 35i torque on a day to day basis. then saying that she's probably a better driver because you're offended that i said something that had absolutely nothing to do with you is just plain ridiculous. you enjoy your 335i buddy
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11-16-2016, 01:22 PM | #12 | |
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11-16-2016, 02:00 PM | #13 | |
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11-16-2016, 02:41 PM | #14 | |
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11-16-2016, 02:59 PM | #15 |
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11-16-2016, 04:16 PM | #17 |
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11-16-2016, 04:22 PM | #18 |
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Seriously? That's a serious answer? Okie dokie, we're done here...
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2011 E90 328i 6MT, BMW Aero, CF hood/boot, PI+CAI+RM+3IM+BPC, SS+CI528+ThermoTec+SS#1+2XBurns, AKG 75D eng/trans, Al/Delrin diff/RS, CM 850, UCP, CAE, AKG DSSR, DiffsOnline 3.91 30/90 LSD+BW cooler, C&R, Setrab, Accusump, AST 3-way+Swift, Aurora PR+BW spherical, Vorshlag CPs, M3 brace+UR bar, ARC-8 18x8.5, 255 R1R, RB/CSL rotors+cooling, 135i calipers, RS29, RT700, Safecraft, OMP HTE-R+804F+QD Superquadro, 6pt cage+FIA, Braille, RT DL1Mk3
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11-16-2016, 07:54 PM | #19 |
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You never said that the power was too much for dailying, you said it was too much for his wife.
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