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      03-23-2015, 12:49 PM   #45
Bullitt1841
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 335DieselPower View Post
I recently had the exact same issue above and have just made a thread on it. Any idea if this has/could be recalled by BMW? Thanks
There was a recall in North America. Don't know if it applies to you guys or not.

http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/owners/...4&refurl=email

http://www.torquenews.com/1081/bmw-r...stalling-issue
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      03-25-2015, 10:34 AM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Feshdogg View Post
There was a recall in North America. Don't know if it applies to you guys or not.

http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/owners/...4&refurl=email

http://www.torquenews.com/1081/bmw-r...stalling-issue

Damn thats a lot of vehicals to recall.. How long will this recall stay open? BTW this happened to my 335i this morning (parked)
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      04-11-2015, 05:42 AM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Feshdogg View Post
There was a recall in North America. Don't know if it applies to you guys or not.

http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/owners/...4&refurl=email

http://www.torquenews.com/1081/bmw-r...stalling-issue
thanks for this, i seem to be making some slow progress but BMW UK are reluctant to cooperate! I won't let it go though, my thread will get to the bottom of it
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      05-11-2015, 09:18 AM   #48
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Hello all....

For all of you who had an issue with the power supply cable to the fuse box...

Please check out BMW Recall :13v044

If you fixed your BMW before this recall was issued, you are entitled for compensation.
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      02-17-2016, 11:57 AM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ifly737 View Post
Hello all....

For all of you who had an issue with the power supply cable to the fuse box...

Please check out BMW Recall :13v044

If you fixed your BMW before this recall was issued, you are entitled for compensation.
Apologies for bumping an old thread. Having exact same issue on a 2011 328xdrive and my VIN is not part of that recall. Is there any way to force them to do it?
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      02-17-2016, 12:44 PM   #50
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OP is driving a Prius now.
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      04-08-2016, 01:04 PM   #51
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jyhash thank you

jyhash you are the man, thank you for sharing your very detailed issue, when I read it I knew it was exactly the same problem I had .

I was able to reach the fuse box . I shake it (the space is so uncomfortable and reduced) , finally I got electrical power again , starting in the glove box.
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      06-26-2016, 01:42 AM   #52
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I just had this problem on my 2006 325i. Electrical system started acting out (random warning lights when turning the car on) and then the car died completely about 2 weeks later, just before I was scheduled to bring it into the shop. It is now fixed and working.

If you had this same problem, were there any more problems after that? Anything you might thing could be related or been affected by the initial problem? My car has low mileage (for its age), but since it's now 10 years old, I am starting to wonder whether it's time to start thinking about a new(er) one...

Thanks
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      12-24-2016, 11:33 AM   #53
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335i 2010

Complete power blackout today (twice).
First time, I put my heavy duty battery charger, and it kicked the loose connection back to life. Definitely not flat battery symptoms.

Later that day, same thing but had to call out the AA. Got caught in a multi story car park, so he bought out his mobile bump start thingy. AA guy could see 12 volts at the jump start connector in the engine bay. Absolutley no lights at the dash. I crawled in the boot from the back seats, and messed with the battery cables. No joy.
Eventually came back to life by itself. No idea where the fault might be, but the symptoms were exactly as if removing the battery.

Does the big fat red wire go straight to the fuse box?

The AA man was stumped on this.

Thanks.
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      12-24-2016, 12:11 PM   #54
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electical e90 pdf
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...,d.cGU&cad=rja
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...85464276,d.cGU
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...85464276,d.cGU

There are about 5 power wires leading forward (from the battery)to various points in the cabin and engine bay(see first pdf) . The one that the recall is on powers the cabin electronics and is terminated behind the fuse box in the cabin.
Sometimes you can bring the car back to life by shaking the cable behind the fuse panel in the cabin. There is a large range of cars between 07 and onward that are effected and just because your car is not on the list it doesn't mean that that
cannot be the problem. Also your IBS may be messing with you but genraly you will have cabin power when that happens. These cars are not easy to jump a simple jump may not work if the battery is really low or shorted internally.

The average lifetime of a battery in these is 6 years.

http://www.usatoday.com/story/money/...ables/1924627/

see entry 48 also

Last edited by ctuna; 12-24-2016 at 12:29 PM..
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      12-24-2016, 01:33 PM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ctuna View Post
electical e90 pdf
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...,d.cGU&cad=rja
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...85464276,d.cGU
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...85464276,d.cGU

There are about 5 power wires leading forward (from the battery)to various points in the cabin and engine bay(see first pdf) . The one that the recall is on powers the cabin electronics and is terminated behind the fuse box in the cabin.
Sometimes you can bring the car back to life by shaking the cable behind the fuse panel in the cabin. There is a large range of cars between 07 and onward that are effected and just because your car is not on the list it doesn't mean that that
cannot be the problem. Also your IBS may be messing with you but genraly you will have cabin power when that happens. These cars are not easy to jump a simple jump may not work if the battery is really low or shorted internally.

The average lifetime of a battery in these is 6 years.

http://www.usatoday.com/story/money/...ables/1924627/

see entry 48 also
Thanks ctuna. I'll read through that info.
My battery is only about eight months old. Definitely not the battery, as something just clicked and power was back on, and started as normal.

There was zero power anywhere, not just the interior, so does this mean it's unlikely to be the wire going into the back of the fuse box?

This has been the unluckiest car I've ever owned. Replaced the engine 6 months ago. Nightmare.
The fact that this is intermittent, is going to be a job to trace.
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      12-24-2016, 02:53 PM   #56
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Well the car will be dead without power to all the electronics
in the cabin. If this cable connection goes out when your driving
your dead in the water. You should still be able to measure 12 volts at the
engine jump points unless the power cable charge blew though.
There is a charge the blows and cuts power to the engine if your
in an accident. Also never jump the car from the battery.

Read the first pdf.
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      12-24-2016, 04:25 PM   #57
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Thanks again 👍
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      01-28-2017, 03:36 AM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jyhash View Post
Glansberry,

I found out what it was, at least on my vehicle: There is a design flaw in the fusebox located in the glovebox. Essentially what BMW did is make the fusebox connection to the battery cable a simple plastic clip, instead of a bolted down connection. When the car is driven, the battery cable gets jostled and electricity arcs between the connection, and does one of two things: fries the connection, or disconnects from the box. This can be temporarily fixed by opening the glove box, removing the fuse box cover, reaching around the back of the fusebox on the right hand side and jostling the cable until it regains the connection. This will at least make the car temporarily drivable, but it may lose its connection again.

When I got the car repaired, it was out of warranty, so it cost me a pretty penny. So be thankful yours is under warranty: it cost me $1200 to fix. It needed a new fusebox because my connection had melted, and labor to figure out the problem was the big cost because no one knows what the issue was.

But you'r right, it is a major safety concern, and I wish that I got reimbursed by BMW for what was an obvious design flaw. I'd make sure that you talk good and long with the service advisor at the BMW Service Center to make sure it won't continue to be an issue after your warranty expires. But this was a definitely one of the main factors in me getting rid of my '07 328i and trading up to an '09 335i.

Hope this helps.

~JYH

Dude props. I left my car at the gym the other night came back wiggled the cable started right away.
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      07-01-2018, 03:38 PM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jyhash View Post
Glansberry,

I found out what it was, at least on my vehicle: There is a design flaw in the fusebox located in the glovebox. Essentially what BMW did is make the fusebox connection to the battery cable a simple plastic clip, instead of a bolted down connection. When the car is driven, the battery cable gets jostled and electricity arcs between the connection, and does one of two things: fries the connection, or disconnects from the box. This can be temporarily fixed by opening the glove box, removing the fuse box cover, reaching around the back of the fusebox on the right hand side and jostling the cable until it regains the connection. This will at least make the car temporarily drivable, but it may lose its connection again.

When I got the car repaired, it was out of warranty, so it cost me a pretty penny. So be thankful yours is under warranty: it cost me $1200 to fix. It needed a new fusebox because my connection had melted, and labor to figure out the problem was the big cost because no one knows what the issue was.

But you'r right, it is a major safety concern, and I wish that I got reimbursed by BMW for what was an obvious design flaw. I'd make sure that you talk good and long with the service advisor at the BMW Service Center to make sure it won't continue to be an issue after your warranty expires. But this was a definitely one of the main factors in me getting rid of my '07 328i and trading up to an '09 335i.

Hope this helps.

~JYH
thank God for old posts. i jiggled the cable and voila it worked. Good call.
thanks.
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      08-16-2018, 04:08 PM   #60
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Thanks

Quote:
Originally Posted by packman57 View Post
thank God for old posts. i jiggled the cable and voila it worked. Good call.
thanks.
Just had this very issue. Saved my ass, thanks guys.
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      01-19-2020, 05:13 AM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nlphe View Post
I parked my car for 5 minutes, put the keyfob in and power went out with keyfob stuck in the dash. Power was completely out. I entered the trunk with the key and gave a gentle push on the Battery Safety Terminal (or Power Distribution Box on the positive battery terminal), heard a few sparks and power came back on.
After 2 miles, the ABS and DSC lights came on on the dash indicating a power problem. The car kept running on alternator power, but as soon as I shut down the engine it went dead again. Same resolution worked again. I disconnected the battery for safety and have yet to investigate the problem with the unreliable BST connection. My BST is the 2006 type and is black.
This is the sudden power loss as described above. My can is a 2006 and not covered under the recall. Any other 2006 owners with the same problem?
Did you get this figured out?
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      12-14-2021, 06:58 PM   #62
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Jiggling the red wire saved me guys!! Thank you. Now I'm gonna figure out how to properly remove the fuse box so I can fix this loose red battery wire. 🤗🤗🤗🤗
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      12-16-2021, 03:12 PM   #63
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I am out of ideas. I have a 2008 328i (E92). I drove it a few weeks ago for emissions everything seemed fine. When I went to drive it a couple weeks later, I could not start the car. I put it on a trickle charger over night. The car had some power, but would not start. Lights were dimmed and headlights came on, windows released down to open doors, so definitely some power. I pulled the battery and had it tested, and it was below the charge needed after a week of charging, and with it being 7 years old, I bought a new one from the dealer. The exact replacement went in and nothing. No power whatsoever. There is no electrical system working at all. After reading through the threads, and learning of BMW Recall :13v044, I started the process for the fuse box check. Jiggling the cable did nothing, so I removed the globe box and JB. The good news is the recall was completed on my car and the new spliced cable has a metal connection to the fuse box. I cannot see any damage on the terminals, and have checked the fuses and all appear ok. I check that the battery has voltage, and the cables have current at the battery and at the fuse box terminal. I am not sure what else I could check. I have read it could be what has been referred to as the JBE that connects to the bottom of the JB or the footwell module on the driver side. With no power, I cannot complete a scan, so I am wondering if there are any other steps or areas to consider. Would the footwell module on the driver's side cause a complete electronic failure or is that only at the fuse box? Any help is greatly appreciated as the car is stranded in the garage. I have read through the threads, and cannot find anything else to tackle
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      12-16-2021, 05:53 PM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ATLBMW2021 View Post
... 2008 328i (E92)... When I went to drive it a couple weeks later, I could not start the car. I put it on a trickle charger over night. The car had some power, but would not start. [Need Voltage measured at (1) Jumpstart Terminals under Hood; (2) At Battery Posts; AND (3) at Red B+ Cable connector to Right Side of JB Fuse Panel.] Lights were dimmed and headlights came on, windows released down to open doors, so definitely some power. I pulled the battery and had it tested, and it was below the charge needed after a week of charging [WHAT was the voltage measured???], and with it being 7 years old, I bought a new one from the dealer. The exact replacement went in and nothing. No power whatsoever. [What was measured and WHERE???] There is no electrical system working at all. [Not even what worked BEFORE removing the OLD Battery?]
... I check that the battery has voltage, and the cables have current at the battery and at the fuse box terminal. [WHAT did you check EXACTLY, HOW did you check it, and WHAT were the Voltage readings???]... With no power, I cannot complete a scan [Do you have a Scan Tool or Diagnostic Software? If so, Brand & Model?]
Questions:
1) Do you have a multimeter? If not, $7 @ HFT; $10 @ Amazon.
2) What Voltage is read at the Jumpstart Terminals under the hood?
3) What Voltage is read at the Battery POSTS (NOT the terminals that connect to the posts) in the Trunk/Cargo Area?
4) What Voltage is read at the Large Red B+ Cable that connects to Right side of JB Fuse Box?
5) Do you have a Battery Charger that can provide 6-Amp or 10-Amp charge rate?
6) Do you have a Scan Tool or Diagnostic Software? If so, Make & Model, or name such as INPA or ISTA.
7) When you open door, do interior lights come on?
8) When you put Remote Key in Insert Compartment does Radio play? Do Brake Lights light? Does warning chime sound if driver door open?
9) When you press START without pressing Brake/Clutch, does instrument panel light-up?
10) Does your vehicle have Comfort Access?
11) What are the Last-7 Characters of your VIN, so we can provide ISTA wiring diagrams for YOUR vehicle?
George
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      12-18-2021, 08:49 AM   #65
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I appreciate the response. To briefly answer the questions, went I said no power, I meant there was absolutely no electrical system working anywhere. I had tested with a multimeter at the battery posts, under the hood and and it registered 12.33. I had no reading a the B+ cable in the front. I was not sure if I was not reading it correctly of if there really was no power. I assumed no power, and found the issue at the splice the dealer did to complete the recall. Cable was fixed and with that I had full power again, and all the electrical systems came back on.
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      12-18-2021, 12:46 PM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ATLBMW2021 View Post
... when I said no power, I meant there was absolutely no electrical system working anywhere. I had tested with a multimeter at the battery posts, under the hood and and it registered 12.33. I had no reading at the B+ cable in the front. [I presume you mean NO Voltage at the B+ cable attached to the JB Fuse Panel?] I was not sure if I was not reading it correctly of if there really was no power. I assumed no power, and found the issue at the splice the dealer did to complete the recall. Cable was fixed and with that I had full power again, and all the electrical systems came back on.
All "B+" or Positive Voltage, with engine off, comes from the (+) or Positive Battery Post. There are Three (3) Red B+ Cables that go from the Positive Battery Post to different electrical consumers:
1) The LARGE Red B+ Cable runs from the BST (Battery Safety Terminal) at the (+) Battery Post down to the Outboard "Transfer Point" that passes through the chassis into the RR Wheel Well, and then forward, beneath the vehicle, to the Jumpstart Terminal under the hood. That cable and all its connections were intact; that is why you got virtually the SAME voltage at the Jumpstart Terminals as you did at the Battery Posts (battery OK).

2) The SMALL Red B+ Cable, attached to the rear of the "Rear Power Distribution Panel" (RPDP on top of the battery) goes down to the Inboard Transfer Point" and then forward to the DME in the E-box, to provide power for the VVT/Valvetronic System. That was OK too (although NOT tested).

3) The MEDIUM Red B+ Cable, also attached to the INBOARD terminal of the RPDP goes Up, Over the Battery, and runs INSIDE the car to the JB (Junction Box) Fuse Panel, connecting on the Right Side. THAT is what had lost "connectivity" at the Splice, so ALL the things powered by the JB Fuse Panel (CAS Module, FRM Module, 30G Accessories, Ignition, DME Relay, etc. -- Locks, Lights, Accessories and DME Primary Power) did NOT work, as they had NO Voltage Supply from the Battery.

You did the correct tests to determine that the Battery and Jumpstart terminals HAD Voltage, and that the JB Fuse Panel Voltage Supply had NO Voltage. The important things for those trying to understand "Electrickity" (that mysterious thing you cannot see ;-) is that:
A) There are THREE (3) Different B+ Voltage Supply Cables from the Battery (+) Post, as described above;
B) You just need a CHEAP ($7 to $10) multimeter to "SEE" the voltage, at the battery posts and the other ends of the 3 B+ cables, to be able to determine WHY it appears the car "has no electrical power" (when it actually does, at least at the battery ;-).

Don't take my word for it -- get the "Genuine BMW Facts" from the attached BMW Training Manual: "E90 Voltage Supply". In this "MISinformation Age", Sources Matter.
George
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File Type: pdf 3. E90 VOLTAGE SUPPLY & BUS SYSTEMS.pdf (1.34 MB, 129 views)
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