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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > Suspension | Brakes | Chassis > Brake Pad recomendation



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      12-14-2017, 10:19 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mweisdorfer View Post
Fact is ECS's version is better quality, and is totally sealed from outside elements. If you you put some CRC Silaramic brake grease on the guide pins during install, you are golden.
Have you installed these? I returned two sets due to non fit issue. After they removed the product from the market. It was maybe a year ago so things might have changed but I have move on on this product.
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      12-14-2017, 10:36 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by feuer View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by mweisdorfer View Post
Fact is ECS's version is better quality, and is totally sealed from outside elements. If you you put some CRC Silaramic brake grease on the guide pins during install, you are golden.
Have you installed these? I returned two sets due to non fit issue. After they removed the product from the market. It was maybe a year ago so things might have changed but I have move on on this product.
Yep.

I have them on the front and rear. No issues. I put them on in February of 17'.

Definitely gives you more pedal feel.

They installed with no issues using their tool.

I just used a Dremel wheel with some rough grit sandpaper to smooth up the inside of the cylinder walls where the sleeve goes in.

I greased up the SS pins with CRC Silaramic brake grease. That's by far the best stuff I have ever used. It has a silicone base.

Just gotta make sure the flat part of the very end of the brass sleeve turns inward towards the piston, when you install the brass sleeve.

The brass sleeve will slide slightly in & out of the caliper, in some cases, but that's why they use the thin washers that you secure in the slots on the brass sleeve. They are located on the outside of the caliper on the sleeve when it is installed properly. They prevent the sleeves from sliding too far inside the caliper.

The rubber gaskets that you have to insert into inside of the end of the brass sleeve are sort of a pain to get in there correctly, but not horribly difficult.
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      12-14-2017, 04:31 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blueeyesredpanda View Post
I wanna order it, but why does it costs SO MUCH + handling fee + brokerage fee to ship it to Canada?
Shipping alone is $40.... you guys don't ship with USPS?
Reach out to my sales guys, they can sometimes override the shipping set up in cart to ship via other options. You'll need to email them sales@ecstuning.com

Or ship it stateside so you can take advantage of the free shipping on most parts, then enjoy a road trip!


Quote:
Originally Posted by GEOS07335i View Post
I don't have any lip at all on the rotors. Can I just get away with changing out the pads?
Measure for thickness. If they are far from minimum thickness rock-n-roll with new pads, just make sure to bed them properly.



+1 to feuer suggestion, that'll stop like a tree!


Thanks for the feedback mweisdorfer, great explanation of everything, you basically did my job for me lol.

-James
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      12-15-2017, 06:39 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mweisdorfer View Post
1)The guide pins provided are 304 SS.
2)They are sealed with rubber gaskets internally.
3)They come with their own end caps.
4) The Brass used is C544

I don't see Bimmer World's set boasting 304 SS pins & C544 Brass. Also, they are not sealed with a rubber gasket. Last, Bimmer World's set does not come with end caps.
This is the response I got.

"The brass is 360 and the stainless is 303. We don't include dust caps because we sell these as race parts that assume a strict cleaning and maintenance schedule."
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      12-15-2017, 11:48 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan Bilzerian View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by mweisdorfer View Post
1)The guide pins provided are 304 SS.
2)They are sealed with rubber gaskets internally.
3)They come with their own end caps.
4) The Brass used is C544

I don't see Bimmer World's set boasting 304 SS pins & C544 Brass. Also, they are not sealed with a rubber gasket. Last, Bimmer World's set does not come with end caps.
This is the response I got.

"The brass is 360 and the stainless is 303. We don't include dust caps because we sell these as race parts that assume a strict cleaning and maintenance schedule."
Yep, and they don't have a rubber gasket on the inside of the caliper end. So, they are not sealed.

Again, ECS version is a much better product and is worth the extra $$$ you spend.
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      12-21-2017, 03:23 AM   #28
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I've got the Zimmerman discs and pads on my 330d, stop it a damn sight better than the previous stuff.
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      01-11-2018, 04:49 AM   #29
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You can get performance friction pads at oriellys and they put a lifetime warranty on them including wear which is amazingly good. I have so far had good results with the new autozone GT pads and they also have lifetime warranty with wear, but they only come in front pads currently for my car. Stated to be made in the usa even wow. So far i like then.
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      01-24-2018, 02:12 AM   #30
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OEM for a street car.
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      01-24-2018, 02:24 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tucson335d View Post
You can get performance friction pads at oriellys and they put a lifetime warranty on them including wear which is amazingly good. I have so far had good results with the new autozone GT pads and they also have lifetime warranty with wear, but they only come in front pads currently for my car. Stated to be made in the usa even wow. So far i like then.
Wait, Oreillys sells the Performance Friction brand?
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      01-24-2018, 10:50 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tlow98 View Post
Wait, Oreillys sells the Performance Friction brand?
They do, but it is just the street stuff... not the track oriented pads.
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      01-24-2018, 12:10 PM   #33
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I'd suggest the Hawk HPS 5.0 pads. Had the Akebonos before, they didn't dust much but wasn't satisfied with the bite. Plus they had fitment issues and "clicked" within the calipers.

Swap in some decent fluid in case you do track it. Power bleeder + INPA will help here.
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      01-24-2018, 12:54 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zero2sixtyZ View Post
I'd suggest the Hawk HPS 5.0 pads. Had the Akebonos before, they didn't dust much but wasn't satisfied with the bite. Plus they had fitment issues and "clicked" within the calipers.

Swap in some decent fluid in case you do track it. Power bleeder + INPA will help here.
Yeah, all pads are compromises. Fitment issues would drive me crazy.

Honestly, Id heavily consider 2010+ OE pads. They produce less dust that the earlier ones and are all around fantastic. Of course, they will not stand up to a track day.
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      02-01-2018, 02:37 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bbnks2 View Post
They do, but it is just the street stuff... not the track oriented pads.
I think they can get the track pads but i havnt looked and they are more expensive let me check on that i am curious.
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      02-01-2018, 06:36 PM   #36
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Have had good luck with Performance Friction pads, but thinking about trying Hawk next.
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      02-08-2018, 02:41 AM   #37
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Had Good Luck with Cool Carbon S/T Plus Pads and Zimmerman Rotors

About 6 months ago I installed the Cool Carbon S/T "Plus" front pads with with Zimmerman blank rotors and the Cool Carbon S/T rear pads with Zimmerman blank rotors. Thus far, for sporting street driving they have been outstanding. I dare say the standard S/T pads on the rear dust more than the S/T pads on the front (which is a bit less than the OE's that came on the car in 2008 - but some of this may be due to dust color more than the amount).

The S/T Plus front pads, in my opinion, are a very linear pad with a very good initial bite (but not in a grabby sense of the OE pads they replaced). They were bedded per the manufacture instructions at o'dark-thirty on some nearby country roads and took about the whole 15 cycles of 65 MPH - 10 MPH stops progressively to threshold braking (5 to 6 braking events ramping up to 9 to 10 at near / at threshold (without activating the ABS)) to get to a point where any fade began to be detected (and it was very slight at that). I actually performed the bedding cycle twice until I was satisfied with the overall evenness of the pad material transfer to the rotor surface. I installed the pads using the ATE Plastilube on the pad backing plate contact points. Thus far all 4 corners have remained squeal free.

Initially the bite was not strong but, following the second bedding there was a big improvement in that department. Hoping to try them at the track to see how they do as the "Plus" pads are supposed to be capable of some DE type tracking (not even imagining these will hold up like a dedicated track pad but it will be interesting to see how they compare to OE/stock).

Anyway, I have been pleasantly surprised by these pads. I figured I would either hate them and long to have the OE's back for the street or I might just like them. For me, the experience has been a positive one.

One downside - they were not cheap...

Last edited by Speed_Addict; 02-09-2018 at 04:43 AM.
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      02-12-2018, 05:43 PM   #38
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As far as the ECS guide pin/bushing upgrade, how often would you need to lubricate the guide pin; can you just use some CRC Silaramic brake grease on the pin maybe everytime you change break pads? I like the idea of these but don't want something that is a pain to maintain.....
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