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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > DIY Guides > e90 - N54 Oil Filter Housing gasket replacement (2007 335i automatic)



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      01-04-2015, 02:48 PM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seccsc View Post
This hose sucks to replace due to connecting on back end of the Thermostat. I think the lesson learned is to push the flange and then tight the fasteners. If you use the fasteners to push in the flange, I believe that will cause this issue. The fasteners set on the upper part of the plastic flange and don't help with uniform alignment while tightening. Cheers!
Thanks - I'll add this point to the write-up.
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      01-06-2015, 08:00 PM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NGEE
Quote:
Originally Posted by seccsc View Post
This hose sucks to replace due to connecting on back end of the Thermostat. I think the lesson learned is to push the flange and then tight the fasteners. If you use the fasteners to push in the flange, I believe that will cause this issue. The fasteners set on the upper part of the plastic flange and don't help with uniform alignment while tightening. Cheers!
Thanks - I'll add this point to the write-up.
Sounds like his broke on reinstall. Mine broke on removal as soon as I pulled it out. Just fell right off.

I made sure I pushed the flange in and the tightened after it was fully inserted. I didn't trust the plastic to support it being pulled in.
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      01-25-2015, 08:02 AM   #69
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Fault Code 2A7C

Just wanted to post my experience in case anyone else runs into the same.


I left the car on jack stands in the front. I BELIEVE, this is what caused my car to go into limp mode on the initial start. I pulled a 2A7C code. After you ensure coolant is good. I suggest leveling the car before you start it.


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      02-17-2015, 10:36 PM   #70
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awesome instructions!

Last edited by Beyondcr; 02-17-2015 at 10:43 PM..
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      03-11-2015, 03:32 PM   #71
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I can not get my oil fill cap off... has anyone else had any experience with this? I need to get it off to replace the oil cap gasket as it seems mine may be leaking.

thanks.
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      04-06-2015, 04:10 AM   #72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seccsc View Post
Be careful with the flanged coolant hose. I first pinched an oring and then the plastic flange broke in to pieces.
Mine broke on removal as well.. must be very brittle. Wished I could have left it but was definitely in the way of the OFH bolt.

My O-ring survived but the strange thing the diameter seems to have stretched and I can't reuse it. This is the same for the o-ring for the upper radiator hose connecting to the OFH (made the mistake of taking it off), stretched also and too big to reuse.

I will need to replace them anyway but never seen o-rings stretch like that upon removal. Anyone else had this problem?

By the way I found the part # for the cylinder head hose O-ring 11537545278 as listed before.

But I'll be buggered if I can find a part # for the O-ring that goes in the upper radiator/OFH hose (1712754012). Looks to me it only comes complete. List price of $53US

Just had to fork out $120 US for the upper radiator/OFH hose. Australian Stealer Pricing.

Definitely recommend not taking this one off.

Last edited by donR; 04-07-2015 at 12:43 AM..
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      04-08-2015, 10:07 PM   #73
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Great write up! I did this the other day and it took me about 4 hours total. My 2007 335i has about 100K on it and the housing was leaking pretty badly. this DIY saved me about 1500.00!!!

also I removed the Coolant outlet house from the engine block to get to the 2nd bolt and the hose basically crumbles when you have around 100K. it would be great to attached a DIY for this hose as I bet most folks run into this issue.
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      05-26-2015, 03:20 PM   #74
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Thanks for the write-up!

Just finished this job - took me about 7hrs total but I spent a lot of extra time cleaning things as I went - engine was quite dirty as both gaskets were pretty baked and leaking.

I have a 2007 335i AT Sport w/oil cooler. The biggest PITA bolt for me was the third/lower bolt attaching the oil cooler line assembly to the oil filter housing. Was gunked up and these torx heads strip easily - definitely recommend using the E-12 although a hex 10mm or 10mm box end will work on un-stuck bolts. Also, for me the bolt to uncouple the oil cooler lines was a 13mm not a 12. I also wish I had replaced the o-rings on these lines (2) but did not have them. Will watch for leaks.

I would say if you have an oil cooler then replacing both gaskets is a must - if one is failing the other is not likely far behind. Neither of mine had major breakdown - they just seemed baked and hardened to the point where they had shrunk and were not sealing properly. My girl has 140,000/mi and these have never been touched to my knowledege (owned since 50k) so surprised they weren't worse hearing some of the stories here. ( I know its cliche to say but these are pretty much ALL highway miles/ no track. She is babied- sometimes I think she resents me for it) High temps of track likely bake these things much faster. My water pump did fail recently (120,000) but not likely result from gasket breakdown as coolant was clean and no signs that either of these had deteriorated to that point of chunks breaking away into cooling system.

Thanks again!

Last edited by Grgeorge81; 05-26-2015 at 03:26 PM..
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      07-04-2015, 06:44 PM   #75
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I have a leak in my oil cooler/filter housing and will replace the gaskets. Is it necessary to replace the bolts or can they be reused? Wheres the best place to buy them?
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      07-04-2015, 08:47 PM   #76
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Conventional wisdom is to replace the bolts after one use because they are aluminum and will stretch. Use genuine BMW bolts, get them any of the usual places.

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      07-06-2015, 01:23 PM   #77
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IIRC the three bolts together were $5 from the dealer.
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      07-21-2015, 09:43 PM   #78
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Just completed this. The bolts are NOT aluminium and do not stretch. So the steel bolts you can just reuse. If in doubt check the bolts on your OFH with a magnet. Something i should have done beforehand lol.
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      07-27-2015, 10:15 AM   #79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jin View Post
Just completed this. The bolts are NOT aluminium and do not stretch. So the steel bolts you can just reuse. If in doubt check the bolts on your OFH with a magnet. Something i should have done beforehand lol.
Thanks man - I should have checked also! I updated the DIY.
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      08-01-2015, 04:32 PM   #80
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Quote:
Originally Posted by donR View Post
Mine broke on removal as well.. must be very brittle. Wished I could have left it but was definitely in the way of the OFH bolt.
Same here. BTW, anyone know if there is a torque spec for those 10mm bolts? Can't seem to find one and after all the grief of getting a new hose and installing it, I definitely don't want to overtorque and crack that plastic piece and do it all again!
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      08-01-2015, 11:49 PM   #81
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Thx for this thread...helped me upgrade to the factory oil cooler setup.
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      08-30-2015, 08:41 AM   #82
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Thanks for the DIY. Did it this weekend!
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      08-30-2015, 07:24 PM   #83
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Just wanted to add this to this thread. Not all leaks are coming from the oil filter housing itself. I believe that in some instances the leak can spring from the coolant+flange hose which hooks up to the head. This flange is crap! Look at my thread and get it replaced while you do your oil filter housing:

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1167668
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      08-31-2015, 05:27 AM   #84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vbp6us View Post
Just wanted to add this to this thread. Not all leaks are coming from the oil filter housing itself. I believe that in some instances the leak can spring from the coolant+flange hose which hooks up to the head. This flange is crap! Look at my thread and get it replaced while you do your oil filter housing:

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1167668
Thanks - updated DIY.
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      10-18-2015, 10:29 PM   #85
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jin View Post
Just completed this. The bolts are NOT aluminium and do not stretch. So the steel bolts you can just reuse. If in doubt check the bolts on your OFH with a magnet. Something i should have done beforehand lol.
Stretch bolts that must be replaced in most cases is nothing but a marketing trick and something I have never heard of while living in EU.
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      11-07-2015, 10:20 AM   #86
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Just finished this job. Wasn't too bad. Went ahead and did a few "drain n' fills" to "flush" the coolant. Was probably the original stuff and was nasty looking! As stated before, be careful when your putting the coolant line back in the engine block (if you removed it). I didn't have it seated right when tightening down the first time and ripped my o-ring in half causing a leak when I fired everything back up. Do yourself a favor and run to the BMW dealership and drop $8 on a new o-ring. Then do as a previous poster stated. Twist it on and make sure it's seated all the way BEFORE you tighten it down. Also, removing the throttle body from the intake manifold is not necessary.
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      11-17-2015, 08:19 AM   #87
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Thanks for the this OP, just did it this weekend as well along with a new valve cover Didn't have a chance to fire it up yet but hoping to get to it sometime this week..! I think if I did my math right, I'll only have lost about 1/2 liter of coolant so can I just use some Distilled water and top it back up before doing that whole 12 minute priming process..?? I was going to flush the whole thing but I'm not sure if that's necessary..

Thanks!
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      01-12-2016, 09:28 AM   #88
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Just finished using this ( and the addendum for those with factory oil cooler: http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...1#post19198400 ) DIY.

Vehicle:

'07 E90 sport 335i 6mt w/factory oil cooler

The intake absolutely had to be lifted nearly completely off to access the OFH bolt. No other way.

The OFCH gasket was also leaking badly, both were toast really. The gaskets did come out/off as a single unit in both cases though.

I wanted to remove/clean the OFH/OFCH on the bench so to avoid a complete coolant flush I pulled out the fan assembly. Using that extra room, just break the top coolant hose free at the OFH and direct the spillage directly down to a container. This drains the top part of the engine, including the OFH. Once it's drained, proceed on without any more coolant spillage. Then just top up with the proper mixture at the end and bleed.

Even with the oil all drained out of the engine, busting the OFCH off the OFH still released a good amount of oil. Again, I directed the oil down to a container on the floor through the gap available below. I took a trash bag, kitchen size, and placed it below the OFH/OFCH ( jammed it under the OFH/OFCH mounting plate, over the alternator to cover belt and pulleys ). Worked like a charm. Turned that same trash bag inside-out and used it again when the OFH was busted loose. No mess at all!!!

Excellent writeup,

-weq
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