[imygaf]

I had my car at my local indy for mot and some diagnostics. Just wanted to share the results to see what you guys think.

1. MOT
It failed on brake fluid level indicator but actual fluid level was ok. Front brakes were showing as overdue by 700 miles.They were still ok to pass mot but could do with changing soon.
This is the bit im not sure about: The guy told that its a fail due to fluid indicator even though level is ok. They couldnt reset it due to brakes indicator also on so have to change pads and discs to pass. Is this true?

2.VANOS ERROR
The car has had an intermittent misfire/hesitation for some time now. It went to the same garage in march and they said it was showing a camshaft error which was reset. It was then ok for about a month and then it started to happen again maybe evry couple of weeks. I forgot to get the error code.
This time they said its error code 2A87, vanos mechanism. Gave me a story about how it could be a very expensive job but it would have to go to a dealer as the tools are not available to them yet. I asked them about cleaning or changing the solenoids and he said said it probably wont work as it looks like the actual mechanism. He also claimed that would be a 3-4 hour job due to location of the solenoids, to which i replied that i know its maybe 30 minute diy job so he said i can try if i like.

3. CLUTCH NOISE
When i bring the clutch to biting point there is a slight metallic clink sound. They told me ita either the clutch or the dual mass flywheel. Clutch will be about £200 and flywheel about £600. They wont know which it is until they strip it. Is this right, could the noise be something else?

4. AIR CON WHITE DUST
A couple of weeks ago i noticed white particles all over dash and seats which i found to be coming from the vents. I assumed it would be the common evaporator corrosion issue. They didnt check the evaporator but just gave the system a clean and said the pollen filter was starting to go black. They had replaced this in march. So it might have been some debris or something that the filter caught. They couldnt get the dust to return.
Also told me it might be due to aircon running dry and a regas and lubrication might fix it.

What do u guys think? Is their stand on the mot correct regarding the fluid indicator?
Also i had a search about the vanos and it seems cleaning the solenoids could sort it. Bit i dont have access to compressed air. I read about using maf cleaner. Will this work? What would i do, just give the solenoids a good wipe?

Thanks in advance for any input

[Shere]

Originally Posted by imygaf

2.VANOS ERROR
The car has had an intermittent misfire/hesitation for some time now. It went to the same garage in march and they said it was showing a camshaft error which was reset. It was then ok for about a month and then it started to happen again maybe evry couple of weeks. I forgot to get the error code.
This time they said its error code 2A87, vanos mechanism. Gave me a story about how it could be a very expensive job but it would have to go to a dealer as the tools are not available to them yet. I asked them about cleaning or changing the solenoids and he said said it probably wont work as it looks like the actual mechanism. He also claimed that would be a 3-4 hour job due to location of the solenoids, to which i replied that i know its maybe 30 minute diy job so he said i can try if i like.

I've had the 2A87 code. Taking the solenoid out is a 5 minute job.

My suggestion - find a garage that has an old school tyre pressure machine (i.e. not the new fangled ones where you enter the PSI you want, rather the old one where you press the lever until you are happy with the reading).

Go to one that is quiet / has parking for shoppers. Pop open your bonnet and take out the solenoid, take it over to the compressor and blast the living daylights out of it, getting into each of the holes.

Replace Solenoid and proceed on your way, light will soon go off.

I think the Solenoid is hard to access on the e90, that's the only reason I can think your Indy said that, on the e92 it's piss easy.

[xenon]

If the brake-fluid warning light is on the dash, whatever the cause, then it is an MOT fail.

[imygaf]

I have a e92. I actually have accessed the solenoids before but stopped short of removing them. Just wanted to make sure i could do it before buying maf cleaner. Will try to find a garage as u suggested.

The indy also mentioned a couple of time that my 325 has a 3 litre engine. the third time i said to him its a 2.5 and the lci cars are 3.0. He replied that he checked with bmw and its a downgraded 3.0.
Not really sure what to make of him. They have a good setup and have been around for atleast 8 years. But i got the impression he didnt really know what hes talking about. Hence i wanted to double check the mot issue

[imygaf]

Originally Posted by xenon

If the brake-fluid warning light is on the dash, whatever the cause, then it is an MOT fail.

Ok, thanks for clearing that up. Should they not have been able to reset it or did they have to change the brakes? He said because the brakes were showing as overdue he couldnt reset it.

[LexS]

You should be able to reset the brakes due in X miles via the indicator stalk, then in theory you should be able to clear the brake fluid warning light. Personally I'd want to know why there was a low fluid warning light in the first place, most likely a sensor which can't be that difficult to rectify.

[Phil325i]

Originally Posted by imygaf

The indy also mentioned a couple of time that my 325 has a 3 litre engine. the third time i said to him its a 2.5 and the lci cars are 3.0. He replied that he checked with bmw and its a downgraded 3.0.
Not really sure what to make of him.

He's probably right. The 325i engine changed from 2.5 to 3.0 in September 2007 (pre LCI):

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/BMW_N53

[doughboy]

OP - was the brake warning symbol yellow or red?

Can you describe / post up the symbol.

IIRC there isn't a "fluid" warning it is a general brake warning light and then you would read the check control text description on the OBC, which will then say either:

Fluid low
or
Front pads
or
Rear pads low
or
whatever
etc

So you can tell exactly the problem, I think your MOT place is talking shite.

Just form the comments they have made, either they are daft or they think you are stupid, so I would never go there again. Find somewhere else.

[Alex.J]

The white powder is certainly not a quick fix!

It's the ax evaporator corroding away , the white dust is aluminium oxide!

To stop it, you need a new evaporator! £800 Indy price!

[imygaf]

Originally Posted by doughboy

OP - was the brake warning symbol yellow or red?

Can you describe / post up the symbol.

IIRC there isn't a "fluid" warning it is a general brake warning light and then you would read the check control text description on the OBC, which will then say either:

Fluid low
or
Front pads
or
Rear pads low
ork
whatever
etc

So you can tell exactly the problem, I think your MOT place is talking shite.

Just form the comments they have made, either they are daft or they think you are stupid, so I would never go there again. Find somewhere else.

I initially had the red symbol with the car on a ramp which i think is for the mot. Then a few days later the symbol kind of like the handbrake on symbol came on. It was a red exclamation within either a circle or brackets.
I scrolled through the checklist amd seen the brakes showing -700. Dont remember seeing anything about brake fluid.

[imygaf]

Originally Posted by Alex.J

The white powder is certainly not a quick fix!

It's the ax evaporator corroding away , the white dust is aluminium oxide!

To stop it, you need a new evaporator! £800 Indy price!

This was my first concern as i remember reading a thread about it. I called the indy and explained the powder and asked for a quote on the evaporator. They told me it could be something else so best take it in for diagnosis.

They ran the ac but couldnt get anymore powder out the vents so they just cleaned the filter etc. I have also had the ac on and no more powder since. So fingers crossed

[imygaf]

Im going to try cleaning the solenoids tomorrow. I had a look but couldnt find any garages with the old style tyre inflators. So i had a bit of a search and people have been using allsorts to clean them, such as petrol, brake fluid and maf cleaner.
Can anyone verify if these are safe to use? Dont want to cause further problems.

Also does anyone have any idea about the metal clink noise im getting at biting point? Im hoping its not going to be the flywheel. If it is and i also have the condenser corrosion problem then i may end up just selling the car. Dont really want to but its not worth spending close to a couple of grand on it. Might aswell put it towards a new car.

[Shere]

Dunno about the answers to your query, but why not buy a compressor that runs off your car battery?

[imygaf]

Thought about that but i read somewhere it wouldnt be high enough pressure. Although someone suggested attaching the football needle adaptor to increase the pressure. Might give it a try.

I never got a chance yesterday due to the weather. So will probably need to wait a few more days

[CS1984]

Originally Posted by imygaf

2.VANOS ERROR
The car has had an intermittent misfire/hesitation for some time now. It went to the same garage in march and they said it was showing a camshaft error which was reset. It was then ok for about a month and then it started to happen again maybe evry couple of weeks. I forgot to get the error code.
This time they said its error code 2A87, vanos mechanism. Gave me a story about how it could be a very expensive job but it would have to go to a dealer as the tools are not available to them yet. I asked them about cleaning or changing the solenoids and he said said it probably wont work as it looks like the actual mechanism. He also claimed that would be a 3-4 hour job due to location of the solenoids, to which i replied that i know its maybe 30 minute diy job so he said i can try if i like.

Pretty sure this is (one of) the problems I've recently had. It was the motor, which was around £180 for the part then obviously labour on top. So not too bad a hit to the wallet if this is the problem you've got. Although I also needed to new sensor which was more costly.

[Shafz325]

Originally Posted by CS1984

Pretty sure this is (one of) the problems I've recently had. It was the motor, which was around £180 for the part then obviously labour on top. So not too bad a hit to the wallet if this is the problem you've got. Although I also needed to new sensor which was more costly.

If you're talking about the Valvetronic motor, I replaced this a couple of weeks ago on my 325i 2.5 N52 (Part was roughly £220 from BMW inc. VAT and gaskets) and it fixed a problem I had.