[bmw128]

Hello,

Year 2012
model 328i 3.0L N52 Engine

I have ista+ 4.32.15 with the k-dcan from bimmergeeks. When I try to clear the codes it seems to be waiting for me to turn the ignition off but never recognizes that I do have it off. I have seen a few hits about this but I was wondering if there is a workaround by now?

Also, for e9x should I be using ISTA D/P?

Thanks

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by bmw128

I have ista+ 4.32.15 with the k-dcan from bimmergeeks. When I try to clear the codes it seems to be waiting for me to turn the ignition off but never recognizes that I do have it off. Also, for e9x should I be using ISTA D/P?Thanks

Depending upon the year/model E92 (NOT stated ;-) this MAY vary due to powering of OBD II Socket. Generally, you can READ codes either with Engine running or NOT. However, you PROBABLY need to have Ignition ON (no need to run engine) to be able to connect to JBE Hub/Gateway, or to any specific Module.

Generally one should NOT clear codes, at least DME Codes, with engine running, as that may confuse the DME or other Control Module at issue. However Ignition MUST be ON, (engine NOT running) for ISTA to communicate with the Module to clear the codes.

I generally use INPA, rather than ISTA+ (of which I have the MEGA Download previously linked by BimmerGeeks BEFORE BMW "Action"), to read codes, FF Data, Fault Details, and Clear Codes. However, ISTA Menus offer multiple ways to clear Fault Codes:
1) At the "Fault Memory" Screen/ Tab, (Ignition ON, Engine OFF), you can simply press the "Delete fault memory" button in Left of "Action Line" at bottom of screen. See example screen at III on page 5 of attached pdf: "Fault Memory & Test Plan".

2) If connected to a specific Module, such as DME (with Ignition ON, Engine OFF), Select the "Component Triggering" Tab, and "Delete Fault Memory" ECU Function. See page 9 of attached pdf.

Please try those steps, and let us know what works/ does NOT work.

I use ISTA+ for all aspects of Diagnostics: Fault Codes, Diagnosis Scan (Status/ Live Data), Triggering, Test Plan. I also use it as a Shop Manual to view "Documents" related to Repair Procedures & Electrical Wiring Diagrams.

I have NEVER done, nor had any need to do, any "Programming", so I cannot opine on ISTA P (which I've never used).
George

[bmw128]

Thank You the the reply. I will absorb this when I have a moment. Sorry I forgot to post my year for the e92, it a

Year 2012
model 328i 3.0L N52 Engine

Actually, and I may want to open a seperate thread but I seemed to have bricked my FRM so I am waiting for that to arrive. Any words of wisdom for re-installation? I am hoping the repair ( reflash the firmware ) works because I don't really want to buy a new FRM and then have to code it which I don't know how to do and I might have bricked the FRM myself trying to get it to read that the ignition was on or off during the error clearing. I made the mistake I believe of turning the car on in the middle of doing the steering angle sensor adjustment or perhaps it was the clearing of codes but I turned the engine on so I'm not sure if that ended up bricking it. I had a battery charger on it too which I totally forgot to unhook when I srtarted the car but quickly turned the car off realizing I had the battery charger on it.

From there, I started my car and it had the red car on jacks symbol ( limp mode I believe it's called ) . SO, I am currently waiting for my FRM3 PL2 module to arrive on Sarturday. I plan on:

1) making sure battery negative is unhooked

2) reinstall the FRM

3) hook battery back up

4) start the engine ( any steps in between 3 and 4 I should be doing? )


** Wow that is a great PDF you posted, good job on that. Great reference goodies

Just to add to this. I believe it was the FRM module from research, ISTA could not communicate with it. I went through the reset procedure according to ISTA to unhook the battery for 20 seconds I believe , I did it for longer, that did not work so it told me to replace the module.

Symptoms right now are:

-No interior lightning

-No turn signals

-mirrors don't fold in.

-Door sensors don't work, it thinks my door ( driver side is open )

etc....

From research that points to the FRM module. Also, a local BMW mechanic had told me a few months ago about my battery being under powered and this could cause the FRM module to go bad? I honestly don't know nor can I confirm. I bought a new H7 AGM platinum about two months ago. I was playing around with registering the battery and was able to, it was set to 90 Amp but that H7 AGM platnum from diehard is 85 so I registered it that way. I bought the battery locally, I mentioned to them that I was concerned that the battery had to be good for this car and not go by what was in the car. The said the H7 AGM platinum was good for that car.

Actually, that Battery is 80 Amp Hours

https://www.autozone.com/batteries-s...agm/319458_0_0

Site says it fits my car. Anyone who has more knowledge/experience please chime in with any helpful information for me.

Thanks

[bmw128]

Here is a picture of my USB COM settings, it was on COM3. I knew about the latency having to be "1" so I renamed to COM1 just to make sure.

[bmw128]

So the USPS says it's coming tomorrow, hopefully. One question I have is should I clear faults prior to installing the FRM module? I was just going to install it and see if it works. Any recommendations? or does it not matter?

[bmw128]

I am going to follow this video:

[bmw128]

Well, I am back in Business, Installed the repaired FRM module and everything is working again. Pretty good for 54 bucks to have it repaired.

Have not even attempted to clear any codes as they are not showing up in the instrument console. Kind of scared to at this point , don't want to brick it again as I'm not sure what happened for it to get bricked but I have an idea. I know how I am though, I will experiement in a few days , right now just happy to have my car working again.

[TyroneShoelaces]

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

Generally one should NOT clear codes, at least DME Codes, with engine running, as that may confuse the DME or other Control Module at issue.

LOL well how else would I keep it firing on all cylinders after it starts shutting off injectors because of misfires at WOT? You expect me to pull over and restart this thing? kidding not kidding because I do it occasionally because of N54 things.

[bmw128]

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

Depending upon the year/model E92 (NOT stated ;-) this MAY vary due to powering of OBD II Socket. Generally, you can READ codes either with Engine running or NOT. However, you PROBABLY need to have Ignition ON (no need to run engine) to be able to connect to JBE Hub/Gateway, or to any specific Module.

Generally one should NOT clear codes, at least DME Codes, with engine running, as that may confuse the DME or other Control Module at issue. However Ignition MUST be ON, (engine NOT running) for ISTA to communicate with the Module to clear the codes.

I generally use INPA, rather than ISTA+ (of which I have the MEGA Download previously linked by BimmerGeeks BEFORE BMW "Action"), to read codes, FF Data, Fault Details, and Clear Codes. However, ISTA Menus offer multiple ways to clear Fault Codes:
1) At the "Fault Memory" Screen/ Tab, (Ignition ON, Engine OFF), you can simply press the "Delete fault memory" button in Left of "Action Line" at bottom of screen. See example screen at III on page 5 of attached pdf: "Fault Memory & Test Plan".

2) If connected to a specific Module, such as DME (with Ignition ON, Engine OFF), Select the "Component Triggering" Tab, and "Delete Fault Memory" ECU Function. See page 9 of attached pdf.

Please try those steps, and let us know what works/ does NOT work.

I use ISTA+ for all aspects of Diagnostics: Fault Codes, Diagnosis Scan (Status/ Live Data), Triggering, Test Plan. I also use it as a Shop Manual to view "Documents" related to Repair Procedures & Electrical Wiring Diagrams.

I have NEVER done, nor had any need to do, any "Programming", so I cannot opine on ISTA P (which I've never used).
George

Thanks a bunch for your help. I was able to clear the codes by connecting to the specific module as explained in page 9 of the PDF you provided.

Here are is where I stand now. FRM is green!

I did have to change my port back to COM3 because it wasn't working on COM1, I even restarted the laptop, there must be some conflict. It connected right away on COM3, with COM1 it could not read the VIN

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by bmw128

... I did have to change my port back to COM3 because it wasn't working on COM1, I even restarted the laptop, there must be some conflict. It connected right away on COM3, with COM1 it could not read the VIN

I use the version of INPA (BMW Standard Tools), and ISTA that the BimmerGeeks "Downloads" site used to link to MEGA server. You obviously have a DIFFERENT version of ISTA. Both the BG-linked INPA & ISTA versions work correctly with COM1, Latency 1 settings, and malfunction when "Windows Updates" resets to something different, such as Latency 16.

All ISTA installations are NOT the same. As example, with E89 Datens (also per BG Link to MEGA), my total "Size on Disk" for BMW Standard Tools (INPA, etc.) & ISTA is ~ 25 GB. Whatever works for YOU. Glad you got it working.
George

[bmw128]

Yeah, I'm on a roll now, I flush the brake fluid tonight using the service function in ISTA ( I bleed it first using the brake bleeder and then Used ISTA as well). Next Is the Transmission Fluid. I ordered it. I bought this one:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...0?ie=UTF8&th=1

Hopefully 5 Liters is enough. Might get an extra liter to be safe.

I'm just going to drain and fill, not taking off the cover or anything

Thanks Again.

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by bmw128

... Next Is the Transmission Fluid. I ordered it. I bought this one:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...0?ie=UTF8&th=1
Hopefully 5 Liters is enough. Might get an extra liter to be safe.
I'm just going to drain and fill, not taking off the cover or anything...

Most 328i/xi I've heard of (including my 3/2007 build 328xi), use GM6 Transmission, which takes Dexron VI fluid, DIFFERENT from that used in ZF.

Also: I would have at least 7 quarts of Dexron VI on hand. You have to add last one to two quarts with engine running after selecting all gears, as there needs to be fluid pumped into the torque converter. That requires having vehicle on Ramps/Stands, LEVEL where you can get under it, WITH ENGINE RUNNING, to put Fill Plug in, with engine STILL running. Fluid will drain and level will be LOW if you turn off engine BEFORE installing fill plug. If you have NOT done Drain/Refill on 328i BEFORE, I would suggest asking questions about details, such as removing OLD seal on Filter, use of plastic hose and funnel to add fluid, fluid temp & other DETAILS/ Tricks.

ALSO, you should change Filter as that gets "Gummy" with old fluid, and metal shavings will be found at magnet on bottom of pan. Filter & Gasket ~ $50 from Autohaus.
George

[bmw128]

That sucks about the fluid, It's on its way already. I bought that one because fcp euro said it was ok for my car. I will look into the filter.

I would of gotten away cheaper with Dexron VI fluid, although it's amazon I can return it I think. So you recommend Dexron VI fluid?

Will ISTA tell me If I have GM or ZF or do I need to look under the car?

Thanks

[bmw128]

Well here is the part number on the bottom of the pan which points to Dexron VI.

[bmw128]

So sounds like I need this

https://www.autohausaz.com/pn/MZ-24152357284

Hmm. according to this it meets Dexron VI Standards

https://www.autohausaz.com/pn/1058206

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by bmw128

... fcp euro said it was ok for my car. [Did FCP guy ASK what Model & Engine you had?
ZF & GM6 are entirely different as to filter, pan, fluid, etc.] I will look into the filter.
Will ISTA tell me If I have GM or ZF or do I need to look under the car? [YES]

See attached ISTA ScreenPrint of "SBS" Fluid Spec (Dexron VI for GM6) & Photos of my 328xi Pan & Fill Plug.
Note the label by Drain Plug. That is SAME BMW Part# as shown in ISTA for Dexron VI. I used "Genuine BMW Fluid" at
(then) $44 per 4 liters, simply because I was changing fluid on 10-year-old vehicle (130K mi), probably for 1st time,
with drain & refill (after filter change). Drain only removes ~ 7 of 10 quart capacity, with old fluid remaining in Torque
Converter & Cooler lines, so I figured SAME type fluid was better than possible "Mix". You would probably be OK just using
cheapest Dexron VI you can find (Valvoline?). Make SURE it's Dexron VI, which is FULL Synthetic, and NOT earlier "Dexron III"
which generally was used in vehicles built BEFORE 2006.

If you decide to change Filter (recommended), removing the old filter seal is the only tricky part of the job. When you remove
the old filter, the Round, Aluminum seal stays in the hole in the transmission case. You do NOT want to scar that hole when
removing the seal. You DO want to carefully insert a pick or small blade screwdriver between one side of seal &
case hole, to crush seal into "C" shape so you can pull it out with needle-nose pliers. Then insert NEW seal, fully
seating it BEFORE inserting New Filter.

To do ANY job RIGHT, the FIRST Time, you need to take TIME to request advice from someone who has done it before,
watch RELIABLE video (for YOUR model), see Pelican Parts DIY, read ISTA procedure and/or Bentley Manual, (some/ all
of above ;-), look at vehicle, and understand / sort out the DETAILS before turning wrench. MOST DON'T.

RANT:
It's a "Guy Thing" to ASSume and try to set a NEW Speed Record, claiming 10 minutes to do something where at least
20 minutes should have been taken just to PLAN the job and read procedure. ISTA is best overall Reference. Bentley
gives good Over-view on MOST jobs. Online videos show some details manuals do NOT. MOST important:
YOU have to RESEARCH, THINK, Plan, be Patient, and KEEP THINKING.

BTW/ EDIT:
I see you posted while I was "Pontificating"
Hope you find doing some "Research" is rewarding.

Please let us know how it goes.
George

[bmw128]

Sorry to wake up an old thread but i finally got around to serivicing the GM transimission and I was doing good until I triied to insert the new transmisssion filter seal back after removing the old one which by the by the way after removing it ,I'm thinking I should of just left it in there , it's in pretty good shap for 160K miles. Anyhow ,

I tried to fit in the new filter seal from the new filter by tap it in with a deep socket wrench that was in equal in diameter but not sure if if was not lighned up properly when I started tapping it but it damaged the seal so now I I had to order another filter with a seal. so my

question is

IS there a trick or a better way to try and get that tranmission filter seal back in to the transmission prior to installing the new transimission fluid filter?

[bmw128]

Got it resolved, order these and some pure blast and I was able to get the bolt loose

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PH39ZFD...t_details&th=1