[cokelon]

Hi everyone I need a little bit of help, I've looked through many posts on how to add a sub to my 2010 E90 and I am so cofused with all the different parts being used.

Ive read many posts talking about many different amps and subs.

I have access to the following amps:
- Alpine M500 amp Mono
- Rockford Fosgate Punch P300-1 (mono)
- Alpine V-POWER MRP-F250 Amplifier

Subs:
- sony xplod 10 inch
- Alpine type s 10 inch

sub box:
- ported or non ported??

what else do I need to make it work?? I really need help as I don't want to spend $700-$1200 for somebody to do the install when I could actually spend this money on equipment.


Thanks for your help!!

[cokelon]

I forgot to mention only 1 sub is going in the trunk!! lol!

[surendrant]

Originally Posted by cokelon

I forgot to mention only 1 sub is going in the trunk!! lol!

What are the specs on your subs? RMS wattage and impedance I. E. 1ohm 2ohm ect

[cokelon]

Impedance is 4 ohms from the Alpine sub

ALPINE MRP-M500
RMS Power (at 14.4V THD+N, 20-200Hz)
Per channel into 4 ohms: 300W x 1 (0.08% THD)
Per channel into 2 ohms: 500W x 1

let me know what else you need.... Ive had good experience with alpine audio so I guess sticking to that since I have all the info for them

thanks for your help

[cokelon]

Question: would I be able to feed the amp directly from the sub that is under the seat???

Do i need to buy a LOC for this??

thanks

[Luken]

its relatively easy, even more easier considering i owned my e90 for like 3 weeks now and did my install (a bit hackey) in like an hour. if you were near i'd come and help you out. basically your going to tap the subwoofer thats under the seat from the stock amp harness in the trunk. that signal will be fed to your line out convertor which will go to your amp and wah-la. Bass. everything else for the rest of the install is pretty easy and standard. power wire to to battery and ground to body and all that noise.

i suggest getting a line driver instead of a line out convertor though, the line out convertor doesn't have enough voltage to feed a decent signal to the amplifier.

[cokelon]

Originally Posted by Luken

its relatively easy, even more easier considering i owned my e90 for like 3 weeks now and did my install (a bit hackey) in like an hour. if you were near i'd come and help you out. basically your going to tap the subwoofer thats under the seat from the stock amp harness in the trunk. that signal will be fed to your line out convertor which will go to your amp and wah-la. Bass. everything else for the rest of the install is pretty easy and standard. power wire to to battery and ground to body and all that noise.

i suggest getting a line driver instead of a line out convertor though, the line out convertor doesn't have enough voltage to feed a decent signal to the amplifier.

thanks for your info I will look at a line driver hopefully it would be easy to find here in Ottawa as we are kinda limited with stores and they spike up the prices quite a bit.... It does sound pretty easy I do travel to Toronto 1-2/mth so if I have trouble i'll PM you to see if you can give me a hand...

thanks for your help

cheers!

[Luken]

hopefully its not too late for me to post this, this guide has EVERYthing you need to know and do!

http://www.bavsound.com/product-extr...stem_Guide.pdf

that, with a couple of youtube videos and you shouldn't have a problem.

[cokelon]

Originally Posted by Luken

hopefully its not too late for me to post this, this guide has EVERYthing you need to know and do!

http://www.bavsound.com/product-extr...stem_Guide.pdf

that, with a couple of youtube videos and you shouldn't have a problem.

hey Luken thanks for that info... definitely will put me on the right track to get this sub and amp going..

cheers

[Chris@codemybimmer]

There's no point in amping the sub that goes under the seat since they arent that great anyways. you'll pretty much just get the same sound but it will be volume adjusted differently

[cokelon]

Originally Posted by 1lyfe

There's no point in amping the sub that goes under the seat since they arent that great anyways. you'll pretty much just get the same sound but it will be volume adjusted differently

that is true, my plan is to bypass the subs under my seats and feed my amp from them by adding and LOC. Until I can find subs that fit under the seats then I'll go back to those and remove the box from the trunk.

I want to keep my trunk empty so I can fit my hockey gear and golf clubs lol!

[Chris@codemybimmer]

Originally Posted by cokelon

that is true, my plan is to bypass the subs under my seats and feed my amp from them by adding and LOC. Until I can find subs that fit under the seats then I'll go back to those and remove the box from the trunk.

I want to keep my trunk empty so I can fit my hockey gear and golf clubs lol!

I tapped into the underseat sub as well for output to the amp as well. and left the sub inactive.
from my knowledge the subs under the seats must be shallow subs and the design of the car is using the car chassis as the reverberation chamber.
It might be better sounding in the trunk than it is under the seats.

my 2cents
get a active crossover so you can separate the low frequencies from the high's. that way you can skip the LOC and have two amps; one going to the sub and one that goes back out to the oem speakers. that way you can control what frequencies goes where and have a much better overall sound if you fine tune it right.

[Chris@codemybimmer]

Originally Posted by cokelon

that is true, my plan is to bypass the subs under my seats and feed my amp from them by adding and LOC. Until I can find subs that fit under the seats then I'll go back to those and remove the box from the trunk.

I want to keep my trunk empty so I can fit my hockey gear and golf clubs lol!

I tapped into the underseat sub as well for output to the amp as well. and left the sub inactive.
from my knowledge the subs under the seats must be shallow subs and the design of the car is using the car chassis as the reverberation chamber.
It might be better sounding in the trunk than it is under the seats.

my 2cents
get a active crossover so you can separate the low frequencies from the high's. that way you can skip the LOC and have two amps; one going to the sub and one that goes back out to the oem speakers. that way you can control what frequencies goes where and have a much better overall sound if you fine tune it right.

[Chris@codemybimmer]

Originally Posted by cokelon

that is true, my plan is to bypass the subs under my seats and feed my amp from them by adding and LOC. Until I can find subs that fit under the seats then I'll go back to those and remove the box from the trunk.

I want to keep my trunk empty so I can fit my hockey gear and golf clubs lol!

I tapped into the underseat sub as well for output to the amp as well. and left the sub inactive.
from my knowledge the subs under the seats must be shallow subs and the design of the car is using the car chassis as the reverberation chamber.
It might be better sounding in the trunk than it is under the seats.

my 2cents
get a active crossover so you can separate the low frequencies from the high's. that way you can skip the LOC and have two amps; one going to the sub and one that goes back out to the oem speakers. that way you can control what frequencies goes where and have a much better overall sound if you fine tune it right.

[Chris@codemybimmer]

Originally Posted by cokelon

that is true, my plan is to bypass the subs under my seats and feed my amp from them by adding and LOC. Until I can find subs that fit under the seats then I'll go back to those and remove the box from the trunk.

I want to keep my trunk empty so I can fit my hockey gear and golf clubs lol!

I tapped into the underseat sub as well for output to the amp as well. and left the sub inactive.
from my knowledge the subs under the seats must be shallow subs and the design of the car is using the car chassis as the reverberation chamber.
It might be better sounding in the trunk than it is under the seats.

my 2cents
get a active crossover so you can separate the low frequencies from the high's. that way you can skip the LOC and have two amps; one going to the sub and one that goes back out to the oem speakers. that way you can control what frequencies goes where and have a much better overall sound if you fine tune it right.

[Chris@codemybimmer]

Originally Posted by cokelon

that is true, my plan is to bypass the subs under my seats and feed my amp from them by adding and LOC. Until I can find subs that fit under the seats then I'll go back to those and remove the box from the trunk.

I want to keep my trunk empty so I can fit my hockey gear and golf clubs lol!

I tapped into the underseat sub as well for output to the amp as well. and left the sub inactive.
from my knowledge the subs under the seats must be shallow subs and the design of the car is using the car chassis as the reverberation chamber.
It might be better sounding in the trunk than it is under the seats.

my 2cents
get a active crossover so you can separate the low frequencies from the high's. that way you can skip the LOC and have two amps; one going to the sub and one that goes back out to the oem speakers. that way you can control what frequencies goes where and have a much better overall sound if you fine tune it right.

[Chris@codemybimmer]

Originally Posted by cokelon

that is true, my plan is to bypass the subs under my seats and feed my amp from them by adding and LOC. Until I can find subs that fit under the seats then I'll go back to those and remove the box from the trunk.

I want to keep my trunk empty so I can fit my hockey gear and golf clubs lol!

I tapped into the underseat sub as well for output to the amp as well. and left the sub inactive.
from my knowledge the subs under the seats must be shallow subs and the design of the car is using the car chassis as the reverberation chamber.
It might be better sounding in the trunk than it is under the seats.

my 2cents
get a active crossover so you can separate the low frequencies from the high's. that way you can skip the LOC and have two amps; one going to the sub and one that goes back out to the oem speakers. that way you can control what frequencies goes where and have a much better overall sound if you fine tune it right.

[cokelon]

I currently have what I need for the sub and yes crossover is next for the speakers. But for what I've seen it requires a bit more work to get that done.

I've been looking at the shallow subs but I might even just leave it in the trunk and get a custome enclosure that sits on the side of the trunk.