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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
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10-15-2008, 01:35 PM | #661 | |
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I'd encourage you to read through our step by step auto detailing guide to get a better understanding of what is happening during each step of the process. If you have any specific questions on anything, please do not hesitate to ask. George |
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10-20-2008, 02:14 PM | #662 |
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Hey George,
I messed up, but just not sure how bad. Arctic 325 had a nasty scratch that kept bothering me and not responding to treatment. Yesterday I messed it up. There is now a white patch slightly larger than a pencil eraser. Have I gone thru color, or just clear? Do they use a white primer under arctic? P.S. The wife saw it, now I'm in real trouble. |
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10-22-2008, 08:51 AM | #663 | |
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George |
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10-25-2008, 07:17 PM | #664 |
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Im looking to sell my truck and get the paint looking as almost as good as new. With that said, I grabbed a couple photos of what the paint looks like:
front bumper: night shot of front of car: paint chip: Whats are you thoughts on clearing this up? |
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10-27-2008, 06:39 PM | #665 |
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I bought the touch-up kit, but still trying to decide if I should just use clear, or add some color. No, that's NOT sun reflecting off the clear.
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10-28-2008, 09:19 AM | #666 | ||
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A good starting point for you would be to look at either our Porter Cable Starter Kit or Flex Starter Kit and pair that up with Menzerna Intensive Polish and PO106FF. Not only will you probably gain what you spent in resale value by properly polishing your paint, but you'll have the proper tools and polishes to use for years to come on future vehicles. After cleaning up the paint with a long polishing session, be sure to properly protect it with your choice of sealant or wax. If you're selling the truck, I'd recommend a quality carnauba wax, since you aren't as concerned about durability, but more on the look it has to others. Carnauba waxes will give you a warmer, deeper, glossier look, which can help sell it. If you're selling the truck, another thing I'd really encourage you to do is to detail your engine bay. A well cared for engine bay usually shows a buyer that you took good care of a vehicle and can help add to your resale value. If you have any other questions on anything, please do not hesitate to ask. Quote:
Keep us posted on how things turn out, let me know if there's anything else I can give you a hand with. George |
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10-29-2008, 11:23 PM | #667 |
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Today I buffed out a recently painted black chevy suburban. The paint was completely swirled from whoever tried to polish it the first time. I used Menzerna 106ff to remove the swirls but I noticed that it too was leaving swirls or holgramming in the paint. I figured this because the paint was still soft and 106ff has a little bit of cut. So I followed with 85rd on a Flex and the swirls were gone. However what I was not very happy with is that there was still a ton of spider webbing left in the paint. One would think that since it was black and a soft(fresh) clear coat that 106ff would be able to polish out most of the webbing but it didnt. It didnt even really make a difference. I only had three hours to do the whole s.u.v. so I didnt exactly have time to use S.I.P. and then follow with 106ff and 85rd properly. Anyone else have a better suggestion or thoughts about what happened and what process might be better for such a short amount of time. Thanks.
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10-30-2008, 10:19 AM | #668 | |
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What buffer and pad combo were you using with the PO106FF? On a scale of 1 - 10, I would rate 106FF about a 3 in terms of cutting ability, 2 being what may be needed to remove micro-marring from a more aggressive polish / pad combo. I look at 85RD almost strictly as a gloss enhancer, the cut on that would be 0 - 1. PO106FF usually leaves behind a very nice deep wet gloss. Next time around, when you noticed the PO106FF wasn't removing the imperfections, I would have immediately skipped to SIP rather than completing the car with 106 and 85. If time was critical, you would have seen better results from SIP then 106 instead of 106 and 85. Are you sure the 106 was creating the swirls, or perhaps it was simply revealing deeper RIDS and imperfections as you were polishing off the top part of the clear? Hope this helps a little. George |
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10-30-2008, 10:39 PM | #669 | |
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I thought that it might have been not removing the previous swirls but there was one particular area that I saw that was my buffing pattern. So unless the body shop tech and I buff in that same exact pattern (which I would seriously hope not) I think it was introducing swirls on its own. I know 106 can introduce swirls because it does have some cut on a soft clear coat. This clear is not even cured yet as it was only painted about a two weeks ago then transferred body shops because of a bad job done at the first shop. So I was afraid since I was hired to do a swirl removal that if I used SIP and then 106 there might still be some light hologramming and then it would look as if I didnt do a good job. So what I opted to do was be sure I removed the machine swirls or hologramming for sure but leave some webbing due to time constraints. For some reason though I am noticing also that when using S.I.P it also just not cutting as well as it used to. I remember way back when I got my first bottle I used it on my own vehicle with a LC ccs orange pad and then followed with 106ff and a white LC ccs pad. I remember thinking to myself this is the best polish ive ever seen. Yet lately every time I used sip to 106 I would say instead of it leaving a perfect spider web free finish it is only removing about 75% of webbing. I have not used it with LC ccs orange pads in quite a while since I had a huge shipment of Sonus pads. Do you think that the combo of a sonus white polishing pad just might not be as strong as LC ccs orange? Thanks for all the answers. |
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11-04-2008, 12:45 PM | #670 | |
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Sorry for the delayed reply. The imperfections you are seeing certainly could be due to the fresh soft clear coat. Every car is a unique situation and I've had the most problems with repainted panels myself. Regarding the pads, I've never used the Sonus pads, so I cannot directly compare the two. I'd stick to what works best for you. I find SIP works best on orange Lake Country pads or purple foamed wool pads, especially if you use a rotary buffer. I'm also a fan of the flat pads over the CCS pads. We have the option to carry the CCS pads, but I just don't get as good of results compared to the flat pads, so I've had a tough time pulling the trigger on the CCS version. Let me know if you end up trying something else and how things turn out. George |
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11-05-2008, 11:04 AM | #671 |
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Drying
What is the best thing to use to dry your car and to put the soap on with?
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11-05-2008, 11:18 AM | #672 | |
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To clean your paint, I'd recommend a sheepskin wash mitt as they are one of the safest wash mediums you can use to minimize adding swirls and scratches to your paint. You can pre-soak your car with foam with something like the Gilmour Foam Gun or various foam cannon setups with a pressure washer. If you have any other questions on anything, please do not hesitate to ask. George |
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11-18-2008, 06:25 PM | #673 |
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Tire Dressing
I am looking for a tire dressing that will give a "wet" look. I have tried Z16 and looking for a shiner look but do not want a silicone based product. I am looking at bright n bold, opti tire gel, and meguirs. I would love recommendations. Thanks in advance.
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11-19-2008, 12:00 AM | #674 |
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-Meguiars gold car soap for normal washing.
-Meguiars fast wax/quick detailer for waxing and touch up -Meguiars leather cleaner for interior leather -Meguiars wheel spray for shiny tires -Black Magic anti-dust for the interior trim Ive never used clay bars or wheel wax or anything else besides what I posted. Anything I am missing or should change. Anything wrong with my setup. Ive noticed some spiderweb or swirl marks in the paint. I dont know their proper name, basically just real small lines that are only noticeable when really close which I need to fix if possible. Thanks
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Last edited by deletedelete; 11-24-2008 at 04:16 AM.. |
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11-25-2008, 04:21 PM | #675 | ||
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From the products you mentioned, Bold 'n Bright probably will have the lowest gloss. The one thing I do like about PBW BnB is how easy it is to apply since the tires seem to drink up the dressing. It's very uniform and has a semi-gloss look to it if you apply the dressing liberally. If you buff this product though, it's very matte. Opti-Bond Tire Gel will give you a wetter look and chances are will last longer for you than Bold 'n Bright. I would think two coats of Optimum would fit your needs quite nicely. One thing I'd like to point out, to get the most out of any tire dressing, you should properly prep your tires before applying the dressing. This entails degreasing your tires to rid contamination and previous tire dressings. A good option would be the Optimum Power Clean or Poorboy's Bio-APC. I don't have any experience with the Meg's dressing, so I can't give you much insight on that. Hope this helps, sorry again for the delayed reply, maybe it pushed your order back so you can take advantage of our up coming 25% off sale. Quote:
The spiderweb / swirl marks you are seeing are imperfections in your clear coat. In order to properly remove them, you need to polish your paint, preferably with a quality buffer, such as the PC 7424 or a Flex XC 3401 VRG. Here's a link to our polishing guide, which helps explain what those imperfections are, how they got there, and how to properly remove them. I'd recommend using the Menzerna line of polishes to remove the imperfections in your paint. Most of the time, swirls and spider webs require at least a two step polish combo to remove them. A good starting point is Intensive Polish followed by Final Polish II or the next upgrade from that would be Super Intensive Polish followed by PO106FF. The best thing you can learn is the proper technique and process. I'd recommend looking over our how-to guides for a good understanding of the major auto detailing steps and how they can help improve your results. If there's anything specific you'd like me to get into, please do not hesitate to ask. Cheers, George |
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11-26-2008, 01:26 PM | #676 |
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I need some help with compounds, I ordered Opt.Hyper Compound but was wondering if I should have went with Power Gloss instead. Which one would you say has more bite? I am using a PFW pad or orange LC pad with a Makita 9227
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11-29-2008, 10:23 AM | #677 | |
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Cheers, George |
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11-29-2008, 01:11 PM | #678 |
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I'm just getting into polishing with the porter cable. Are these ok to start out with? Menzerna sip, po85rd, and 106fa. I've noticed a lot of people using the 106ff but the 106fa is the same thing right?
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11-29-2008, 10:19 PM | #679 | |
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Let us know how your next polishing session turns out! George |
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12-01-2008, 07:59 PM | #680 |
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I read that you can add 1oz of ONR to your regular wash shampoo for increased lubricity; however, I searched a few detailing forums and really didn't see anyone mention doing this. Is anyone here doing this and is there really that much benefit? Thanks.
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12-03-2008, 01:25 PM | #681 | |
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12-03-2008, 02:03 PM | #682 | |
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Also, I think I finally got this mixing concentration figured out for the Foammaster II when using CG CWG. Greg from DI had a great post on Detail University outlining the amount to use per setting. It seemed like simple enough math, but I have actually been mixing it wrong. |
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