E90Post
 


The Tire Rack
 
BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > Wash, Wax, Detailing and Cosmetic protection/repairs > Ask a Professional Detailer...



Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
      10-15-2008, 01:35 PM   #661
Detailed Image
Detailed Image's Avatar
United_States
360
Rep
5,052
Posts

Drives: Detailed by Detailed Image
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Albany, NY

iTrader: (5)

Quote:
Originally Posted by xoulu View Post
i got a white car and I have no clue on how to wash it but take it to a car wash and pay $11 for a machine wash...

I plan to wash it at home and wax it and polish it

what do you guys recommend to buy for soap wax and etc

and what are the steps? how do i polish or apply wax? how do I make it shiny and the paint look like new? Sorry for being a noob but i think my white e92 looks really dirty and need it to be clean... any pm would be great and any suggestions or recommended product or set would be great...

I have $400 to spend on making my car clean so dont be afriad =P

I took it in for a price for a detail and they want $400 to detail car inside out and I rather do it myself... so any other tips or suggestions?
A great starting point to get into seriously detailing your vehicle would be our All the Essentials Detailing Package. Even if you don't opt for that package, it'd be a good guide to make sure it covers everything you needed to properly complete a full interior and exterior detail.

I'd encourage you to read through our step by step auto detailing guide to get a better understanding of what is happening during each step of the process.

If you have any specific questions on anything, please do not hesitate to ask.

George
Appreciate 0
      10-20-2008, 02:14 PM   #662
UncleWede
Long Time Admirer, First Time Owner
UncleWede's Avatar
United_States
17871
Rep
9,376
Posts

Drives: G01 X3 M40i Dark Graphite
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Oxnard, CA

iTrader: (0)

Hey George,

I messed up, but just not sure how bad. Arctic 325 had a nasty scratch that kept bothering me and not responding to treatment. Yesterday I messed it up. There is now a white patch slightly larger than a pencil eraser. Have I gone thru color, or just clear? Do they use a white primer under arctic?
P.S. The wife saw it, now I'm in real trouble.
Appreciate 0
      10-22-2008, 08:51 AM   #663
Detailed Image
Detailed Image's Avatar
United_States
360
Rep
5,052
Posts

Drives: Detailed by Detailed Image
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Albany, NY

iTrader: (5)

Quote:
Originally Posted by UncleWede View Post
Hey George,

I messed up, but just not sure how bad. Arctic 325 had a nasty scratch that kept bothering me and not responding to treatment. Yesterday I messed it up. There is now a white patch slightly larger than a pencil eraser. Have I gone thru color, or just clear? Do they use a white primer under arctic?
P.S. The wife saw it, now I'm in real trouble.
I honestly don't know what color primer is used under Arctic. Do you have a picture by chance? Can you feel it as you glide your hand over it? Might be time for a touch up.

George
Appreciate 0
      10-25-2008, 07:17 PM   #664
mjerina
New Member
0
Rep
12
Posts

Drives: Future BMW Owner
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Dallas

iTrader: (0)

Im looking to sell my truck and get the paint looking as almost as good as new. With that said, I grabbed a couple photos of what the paint looks like:

front bumper:


night shot of front of car:


paint chip:


Whats are you thoughts on clearing this up?
Appreciate 0
      10-27-2008, 06:39 PM   #665
UncleWede
Long Time Admirer, First Time Owner
UncleWede's Avatar
United_States
17871
Rep
9,376
Posts

Drives: G01 X3 M40i Dark Graphite
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Oxnard, CA

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Detailed Image View Post
I honestly don't know what color primer is used under Arctic. Do you have a picture by chance? Can you feel it as you glide your hand over it? Might be time for a touch up.

George
I bought the touch-up kit, but still trying to decide if I should just use clear, or add some color. No, that's NOT sun reflecting off the clear.
Attached Images
 
Appreciate 0
      10-28-2008, 09:19 AM   #666
Detailed Image
Detailed Image's Avatar
United_States
360
Rep
5,052
Posts

Drives: Detailed by Detailed Image
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Albany, NY

iTrader: (5)

Quote:
Originally Posted by mjerina View Post
Im looking to sell my truck and get the paint looking as almost as good as new. With that said, I grabbed a couple photos of what the paint looks like:

Whats are you thoughts on clearing this up?
Your best bet in getting your truck looking like new again is to invest in a quality buffer, such as the Porter Cable 7424 or Flex XC 3401 VRG and pair it up with some Menzerna polishes. From the third picture that you posted, the paint would look completely different if you were able to rid the swirls and imperfections. The paint chip could be touched up, wet sanded and polished down to blend in with the rest of your paint. IMO, cleaning up the swirls and imperfections is going to give you're truck way more sales appeal then touching up the chip.

A good starting point for you would be to look at either our Porter Cable Starter Kit or Flex Starter Kit and pair that up with Menzerna Intensive Polish and PO106FF. Not only will you probably gain what you spent in resale value by properly polishing your paint, but you'll have the proper tools and polishes to use for years to come on future vehicles. After cleaning up the paint with a long polishing session, be sure to properly protect it with your choice of sealant or wax. If you're selling the truck, I'd recommend a quality carnauba wax, since you aren't as concerned about durability, but more on the look it has to others. Carnauba waxes will give you a warmer, deeper, glossier look, which can help sell it.

If you're selling the truck, another thing I'd really encourage you to do is to detail your engine bay. A well cared for engine bay usually shows a buyer that you took good care of a vehicle and can help add to your resale value.

If you have any other questions on anything, please do not hesitate to ask.

Quote:
Originally Posted by UncleWede View Post
I bought the touch-up kit, but still trying to decide if I should just use clear, or add some color. No, that's NOT sun reflecting off the clear.
It's tough getting an exact match a lot of times for touch ups. Sometimes what I'll do is pour a tiny bit of touch up paint onto a plate, spread it thin to get a better idea what the paint will look like, and add a tiny bit of clear to help lighten it up or get a more accurate blend. Once your happy with the color, then apply it onto your paint, let it cure, wet sand it down, then polish out the wet sanding marks. If you have the touch up kit, like Langka or Dr. Colorchip, then just follow the steps they give you, most of them will do a decent job in improving the look of the scratch.

Keep us posted on how things turn out, let me know if there's anything else I can give you a hand with.

George
Appreciate 0
      10-29-2008, 11:23 PM   #667
Chris J
Learning "The Art"
Chris J's Avatar
United_States
8
Rep
116
Posts

Drives: Black BMW 335i
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Chino, CA

iTrader: (0)

Today I buffed out a recently painted black chevy suburban. The paint was completely swirled from whoever tried to polish it the first time. I used Menzerna 106ff to remove the swirls but I noticed that it too was leaving swirls or holgramming in the paint. I figured this because the paint was still soft and 106ff has a little bit of cut. So I followed with 85rd on a Flex and the swirls were gone. However what I was not very happy with is that there was still a ton of spider webbing left in the paint. One would think that since it was black and a soft(fresh) clear coat that 106ff would be able to polish out most of the webbing but it didnt. It didnt even really make a difference. I only had three hours to do the whole s.u.v. so I didnt exactly have time to use S.I.P. and then follow with 106ff and 85rd properly. Anyone else have a better suggestion or thoughts about what happened and what process might be better for such a short amount of time. Thanks.
Appreciate 0
      10-30-2008, 10:19 AM   #668
Detailed Image
Detailed Image's Avatar
United_States
360
Rep
5,052
Posts

Drives: Detailed by Detailed Image
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Albany, NY

iTrader: (5)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris J View Post
Today I buffed out a recently painted black chevy suburban. The paint was completely swirled from whoever tried to polish it the first time. I used Menzerna 106ff to remove the swirls but I noticed that it too was leaving swirls or holgramming in the paint. I figured this because the paint was still soft and 106ff has a little bit of cut. So I followed with 85rd on a Flex and the swirls were gone. However what I was not very happy with is that there was still a ton of spider webbing left in the paint. One would think that since it was black and a soft(fresh) clear coat that 106ff would be able to polish out most of the webbing but it didnt. It didnt even really make a difference. I only had three hours to do the whole s.u.v. so I didnt exactly have time to use S.I.P. and then follow with 106ff and 85rd properly. Anyone else have a better suggestion or thoughts about what happened and what process might be better for such a short amount of time. Thanks.
Most people who use 106FF that I encounter expect a lot more out of it in terms of cutting power. I use it solely to remove micro-marring, haze from more aggressive polishes and to restore depth and gloss. It's not a great swirl remover especially on RIDS, or moderate to deeper imperfections. If you have sweeping surface swirls from a contaminated drying towel or you had some dirt in a microfiber towel when you were removing a product, then 106FF usually gets them out with ease. For deeper imperfections than that, it simply doesn't cut it (no pun intended).

What buffer and pad combo were you using with the PO106FF? On a scale of 1 - 10, I would rate 106FF about a 3 in terms of cutting ability, 2 being what may be needed to remove micro-marring from a more aggressive polish / pad combo. I look at 85RD almost strictly as a gloss enhancer, the cut on that would be 0 - 1.

PO106FF usually leaves behind a very nice deep wet gloss. Next time around, when you noticed the PO106FF wasn't removing the imperfections, I would have immediately skipped to SIP rather than completing the car with 106 and 85. If time was critical, you would have seen better results from SIP then 106 instead of 106 and 85. Are you sure the 106 was creating the swirls, or perhaps it was simply revealing deeper RIDS and imperfections as you were polishing off the top part of the clear?

Hope this helps a little.

George
Appreciate 0
      10-30-2008, 10:39 PM   #669
Chris J
Learning "The Art"
Chris J's Avatar
United_States
8
Rep
116
Posts

Drives: Black BMW 335i
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Chino, CA

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Detailed Image View Post
Most people who use 106FF that I encounter expect a lot more out of it in terms of cutting power. I use it solely to remove micro-marring, haze from more aggressive polishes and to restore depth and gloss. It's not a great swirl remover especially on RIDS, or moderate to deeper imperfections. If you have sweeping surface swirls from a contaminated drying towel or you had some dirt in a microfiber towel when you were removing a product, then 106FF usually gets them out with ease. For deeper imperfections than that, it simply doesn't cut it (no pun intended).

What buffer and pad combo were you using with the PO106FF? On a scale of 1 - 10, I would rate 106FF about a 3 in terms of cutting ability, 2 being what may be needed to remove micro-marring from a more aggressive polish / pad combo. I look at 85RD almost strictly as a gloss enhancer, the cut on that would be 0 - 1.

PO106FF usually leaves behind a very nice deep wet gloss. Next time around, when you noticed the PO106FF wasn't removing the imperfections, I would have immediately skipped to SIP rather than completing the car with 106 and 85. If time was critical, you would have seen better results from SIP then 106 instead of 106 and 85. Are you sure the 106 was creating the swirls, or perhaps it was simply revealing deeper RIDS and imperfections as you were polishing off the top part of the clear?

Hope this helps a little.

George
George,

I thought that it might have been not removing the previous swirls but there was one particular area that I saw that was my buffing pattern. So unless the body shop tech and I buff in that same exact pattern (which I would seriously hope not) I think it was introducing swirls on its own. I know 106 can introduce swirls because it does have some cut on a soft clear coat. This clear is not even cured yet as it was only painted about a two weeks ago then transferred body shops because of a bad job done at the first shop. So I was afraid since I was hired to do a swirl removal that if I used SIP and then 106 there might still be some light hologramming and then it would look as if I didnt do a good job. So what I opted to do was be sure I removed the machine swirls or hologramming for sure but leave some webbing due to time constraints. For some reason though I am noticing also that when using S.I.P it also just not cutting as well as it used to. I remember way back when I got my first bottle I used it on my own vehicle with a LC ccs orange pad and then followed with 106ff and a white LC ccs pad. I remember thinking to myself this is the best polish ive ever seen. Yet lately every time I used sip to 106 I would say instead of it leaving a perfect spider web free finish it is only removing about 75% of webbing. I have not used it with LC ccs orange pads in quite a while since I had a huge shipment of Sonus pads. Do you think that the combo of a sonus white polishing pad just might not be as strong as LC ccs orange? Thanks for all the answers.
Appreciate 0
      11-04-2008, 12:45 PM   #670
Detailed Image
Detailed Image's Avatar
United_States
360
Rep
5,052
Posts

Drives: Detailed by Detailed Image
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Albany, NY

iTrader: (5)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris J View Post
George,

I thought that it might have been not removing the previous swirls but there was one particular area that I saw that was my buffing pattern. So unless the body shop tech and I buff in that same exact pattern (which I would seriously hope not) I think it was introducing swirls on its own. I know 106 can introduce swirls because it does have some cut on a soft clear coat. This clear is not even cured yet as it was only painted about a two weeks ago then transferred body shops because of a bad job done at the first shop. So I was afraid since I was hired to do a swirl removal that if I used SIP and then 106 there might still be some light hologramming and then it would look as if I didnt do a good job. So what I opted to do was be sure I removed the machine swirls or hologramming for sure but leave some webbing due to time constraints. For some reason though I am noticing also that when using S.I.P it also just not cutting as well as it used to. I remember way back when I got my first bottle I used it on my own vehicle with a LC ccs orange pad and then followed with 106ff and a white LC ccs pad. I remember thinking to myself this is the best polish ive ever seen. Yet lately every time I used sip to 106 I would say instead of it leaving a perfect spider web free finish it is only removing about 75% of webbing. I have not used it with LC ccs orange pads in quite a while since I had a huge shipment of Sonus pads. Do you think that the combo of a sonus white polishing pad just might not be as strong as LC ccs orange? Thanks for all the answers.
Chris,

Sorry for the delayed reply. The imperfections you are seeing certainly could be due to the fresh soft clear coat. Every car is a unique situation and I've had the most problems with repainted panels myself.

Regarding the pads, I've never used the Sonus pads, so I cannot directly compare the two. I'd stick to what works best for you. I find SIP works best on orange Lake Country pads or purple foamed wool pads, especially if you use a rotary buffer. I'm also a fan of the flat pads over the CCS pads. We have the option to carry the CCS pads, but I just don't get as good of results compared to the flat pads, so I've had a tough time pulling the trigger on the CCS version.

Let me know if you end up trying something else and how things turn out.

George
Appreciate 0
      11-05-2008, 11:04 AM   #671
mrringodi
Second Lieutenant
United_States
12
Rep
213
Posts

Drives: e90 M3
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Los Angeles

iTrader: (0)

Drying

What is the best thing to use to dry your car and to put the soap on with?
__________________
Appreciate 0
      11-05-2008, 11:18 AM   #672
Detailed Image
Detailed Image's Avatar
United_States
360
Rep
5,052
Posts

Drives: Detailed by Detailed Image
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Albany, NY

iTrader: (5)

Quote:
Originally Posted by mrringodi View Post
What is the best thing to use to dry your car and to put the soap on with?
For drying a car, the first thing I'd suggest is to utilize the sheeting technique. This entails removing any spray nozzle from your hose to allow for free flowing water. Start at the top of your car and flood the cars surface moving left to right and right to left as you go lower down your vehicle. This creates a cascading effect that helps pull water off of your paint leaving you with very little water left to dry with. For the remaining bits of water, I would recommend a quality waffle weave drying towel to blot dry any remaining drops of water.

To clean your paint, I'd recommend a sheepskin wash mitt as they are one of the safest wash mediums you can use to minimize adding swirls and scratches to your paint. You can pre-soak your car with foam with something like the Gilmour Foam Gun or various foam cannon setups with a pressure washer.

If you have any other questions on anything, please do not hesitate to ask.

George
Appreciate 0
      11-18-2008, 06:25 PM   #673
ChuckBimmer
Liv'n the Dream
ChuckBimmer's Avatar
7
Rep
181
Posts

Drives: '08 335
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: USA

iTrader: (0)

Tire Dressing

I am looking for a tire dressing that will give a "wet" look. I have tried Z16 and looking for a shiner look but do not want a silicone based product. I am looking at bright n bold, opti tire gel, and meguirs. I would love recommendations. Thanks in advance.
__________________
'08 335xi Sparkling Graphite/ZPP/ZSP/Step/CA/iDrive/iPod
Performance: Dinan Stage III Flash (OC, FMIC), Dinan Exhaust, KWV3, 19' BMW Performance Wheels
Stealth: V1, NavAlert, Laser-Interceptor, HuberOptik Tint
Future: CAI
Appreciate 0
      11-19-2008, 12:00 AM   #674
deletedelete
Major General
deletedelete's Avatar
United_States
360
Rep
5,873
Posts

Drives: m
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: usa

iTrader: (14)

Garage List
-Meguiars gold car soap for normal washing.
-Meguiars fast wax/quick detailer for waxing and touch up
-Meguiars leather cleaner for interior leather
-Meguiars wheel spray for shiny tires
-Black Magic anti-dust for the interior trim

Ive never used clay bars or wheel wax or anything else besides what I posted. Anything I am missing or should change. Anything wrong with my setup.

Ive noticed some spiderweb or swirl marks in the paint. I dont know their proper name, basically just real small lines that are only noticeable when really close which I need to fix if possible. Thanks

Last edited by deletedelete; 11-24-2008 at 04:16 AM..
Appreciate 0
      11-25-2008, 04:21 PM   #675
Detailed Image
Detailed Image's Avatar
United_States
360
Rep
5,052
Posts

Drives: Detailed by Detailed Image
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Albany, NY

iTrader: (5)

Quote:
Originally Posted by ChuckBimmer View Post
I am looking for a tire dressing that will give a "wet" look. I have tried Z16 and looking for a shiner look but do not want a silicone based product. I am looking at bright n bold, opti tire gel, and meguirs. I would love recommendations. Thanks in advance.
Not sure how I overlooked this thread for a few days, but I apologize for the delayed reply.

From the products you mentioned, Bold 'n Bright probably will have the lowest gloss. The one thing I do like about PBW BnB is how easy it is to apply since the tires seem to drink up the dressing. It's very uniform and has a semi-gloss look to it if you apply the dressing liberally. If you buff this product though, it's very matte.

Opti-Bond Tire Gel will give you a wetter look and chances are will last longer for you than Bold 'n Bright. I would think two coats of Optimum would fit your needs quite nicely.

One thing I'd like to point out, to get the most out of any tire dressing, you should properly prep your tires before applying the dressing. This entails degreasing your tires to rid contamination and previous tire dressings. A good option would be the Optimum Power Clean or Poorboy's Bio-APC.

I don't have any experience with the Meg's dressing, so I can't give you much insight on that. Hope this helps, sorry again for the delayed reply, maybe it pushed your order back so you can take advantage of our up coming 25% off sale.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Prowess Symphony View Post
-Meguiars gold car soap for normal washing.
-Meguiars fast wax/quick detailer for waxing and touch up
-Meguiars leather cleaner for interior leather
-Meguiars wheel spray for shiny tires
-Black Magic anti-dust for the interior trim

Ive never used clay bars or wheel wax or anything else besides what I posted. Anything I am missing or should change. Anything wrong with my setup.

Ive noticed some spiderweb or swirl marks in the paint. I dont know their proper name, basically just real small lines that are only noticeable when really close which I need to fix if possible. Thanks
There's nothing wrong with what you have posted up Prowess Symphony, but you can almost always take things one step further. Adding things like a clay bar to properly prep your paint and polishes to remove imperfections can improve your results quite a bit. Claying your paint after a wash will help rid your paint of embedded contamination that is typically not removed during a wash. This will help your wax last longer and if you opt to polish, help your polishing process produce the best results.

The spiderweb / swirl marks you are seeing are imperfections in your clear coat. In order to properly remove them, you need to polish your paint, preferably with a quality buffer, such as the PC 7424 or a Flex XC 3401 VRG. Here's a link to our polishing guide, which helps explain what those imperfections are, how they got there, and how to properly remove them. I'd recommend using the Menzerna line of polishes to remove the imperfections in your paint. Most of the time, swirls and spider webs require at least a two step polish combo to remove them. A good starting point is Intensive Polish followed by Final Polish II or the next upgrade from that would be Super Intensive Polish followed by PO106FF.

The best thing you can learn is the proper technique and process. I'd recommend looking over our how-to guides for a good understanding of the major auto detailing steps and how they can help improve your results.

If there's anything specific you'd like me to get into, please do not hesitate to ask.

Cheers,

George
Appreciate 0
      11-26-2008, 01:26 PM   #676
dr.jay
Lieutenant
dr.jay's Avatar
14
Rep
465
Posts

Drives: 2011 135
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Greenwood Always Up to No Good

iTrader: (1)

I need some help with compounds, I ordered Opt.Hyper Compound but was wondering if I should have went with Power Gloss instead. Which one would you say has more bite? I am using a PFW pad or orange LC pad with a Makita 9227
Appreciate 0
      11-29-2008, 10:23 AM   #677
Detailed Image
Detailed Image's Avatar
United_States
360
Rep
5,052
Posts

Drives: Detailed by Detailed Image
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Albany, NY

iTrader: (5)

Quote:
Originally Posted by dr.jay View Post
I need some help with compounds, I ordered Opt.Hyper Compound but was wondering if I should have went with Power Gloss instead. Which one would you say has more bite? I am using a PFW pad or orange LC pad with a Makita 9227
Both compounds are pretty comparative in terms of bite, Power Gloss may have a slight edge. I like the OPT HC because of it's long working time and low dusting. Power Gloss is the complete opposite in this regard. It's nice to be able to work compounds or any polish for that matter for long periods of time. Value wise, you also are getting twice the product for $1 more. Keep us posted on what you think of the Optimum Hyper Compound when you get a chance to use it out.

Cheers,

George
Appreciate 0
      11-29-2008, 01:11 PM   #678
jdmish
Second Lieutenant
jdmish's Avatar
4
Rep
203
Posts

Drives: e92
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Southern California

iTrader: (2)

I'm just getting into polishing with the porter cable. Are these ok to start out with? Menzerna sip, po85rd, and 106fa. I've noticed a lot of people using the 106ff but the 106fa is the same thing right?
Appreciate 0
      11-29-2008, 10:19 PM   #679
Detailed Image
Detailed Image's Avatar
United_States
360
Rep
5,052
Posts

Drives: Detailed by Detailed Image
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Albany, NY

iTrader: (5)

Quote:
Originally Posted by jdmish View Post
I'm just getting into polishing with the porter cable. Are these ok to start out with? Menzerna sip, po85rd, and 106fa. I've noticed a lot of people using the 106ff but the 106fa is the same thing right?
Those are some excellent polishes to work with, whether you're just starting out or a seasoned professional. If you're new to polishing, you'd probably have no idea with the differences between 106ff and 106fa. You'd have to use one or the other dozens of times, then switch to notice any minor changes. FA may have slightly longer work time and slightly less dusting.

Let us know how your next polishing session turns out!

George
Appreciate 0
      12-01-2008, 07:59 PM   #680
musc
******
musc's Avatar
United_States
182
Rep
1,702
Posts

Drives: Audi TTRS, 335is
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: SC

iTrader: (9)

Garage List
2011 BMW 335is  [10.00]
I read that you can add 1oz of ONR to your regular wash shampoo for increased lubricity; however, I searched a few detailing forums and really didn't see anyone mention doing this. Is anyone here doing this and is there really that much benefit? Thanks.
Appreciate 0
      12-03-2008, 01:25 PM   #681
Detailed Image
Detailed Image's Avatar
United_States
360
Rep
5,052
Posts

Drives: Detailed by Detailed Image
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Albany, NY

iTrader: (5)

Quote:
Originally Posted by musc View Post
I read that you can add 1oz of ONR to your regular wash shampoo for increased lubricity; however, I searched a few detailing forums and really didn't see anyone mention doing this. Is anyone here doing this and is there really that much benefit? Thanks.
A lot of professionals and enthusiasts make their own wash concoctions. Give it a shot and see how it works, it certainly wouldn't hurt to try. Keep us posted on what you think of the combo.

George
Appreciate 0
      12-03-2008, 02:03 PM   #682
musc
******
musc's Avatar
United_States
182
Rep
1,702
Posts

Drives: Audi TTRS, 335is
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: SC

iTrader: (9)

Garage List
2011 BMW 335is  [10.00]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Detailed Image View Post
A lot of professionals and enthusiasts make their own wash concoctions. Give it a shot and see how it works, it certainly wouldn't hurt to try. Keep us posted on what you think of the combo.

George
George, I think I am definitely going to give it a try. As good as ONR is supposed to be at encapsulating dirt, it could help reduce the risk of scratching when used as part of a mix of CG CWG in a bucket!

Also, I think I finally got this mixing concentration figured out for the Foammaster II when using CG CWG. Greg from DI had a great post on Detail University outlining the amount to use per setting. It seemed like simple enough math, but I have actually been mixing it wrong.
Appreciate 0
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 03:11 AM.




e90post
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
1Addicts.com, BIMMERPOST.com, E90Post.com, F30Post.com, M3Post.com, ZPost.com, 5Post.com, 6Post.com, 7Post.com, XBimmers.com logo and trademark are properties of BIMMERPOST