[Dmacc]

Originally Posted by Mia335in00b

So i had replaced my plugs from my previous post, car was running strong and then today again on a cold start up it throws the CEL. Went to a buddies house and samething misfire cyclinder 2&3. So we swapped the coils so if it were to throw the code again with different cyclinders i know its my coils. Figured i'd do this so my SA doesn't give me a run around.

Coils are pretty cheap and easy to replace, for two coil packs by Bosch I paid about $100

[Mia335in00b]

Originally Posted by Dmacc

Coils are pretty cheap and easy to replace, for two coil packs by Bosch I paid about $100

I know, but car still under warranty =D

[Dmacc]

Originally Posted by Mia335in00b

I know, but car still under warranty =D

Mine too just saying it was pretty annoying for me to go into the service dept 4 times for a misfire problem that I knew the answer to all along, and they would never replace the coils for some reason, so I just went ahead and did it myself.

Just a suggestion for if they don't solve your problem

[Mia335in00b]

Originally Posted by Dmacc

Mine too just saying it was pretty annoying for me to go into the service dept 4 times for a misfire problem that I knew the answer to all along, and they would never replace the coils for some reason, so I just went ahead and did it myself.

Just a suggestion for if they don't solve your problem

Cool beans! Thanks for the heads up

[JonCo]

So my issues are...

• Misfire in Cylinders 1-6.
• Two 00000 codes unidentified
• Rough cold start 7/10 times.
• On cold starts car "sputters" for the first few minutes if left idling
• When I start driving it sputters, up until I can get it running at ~5-10mph then it clears up and runs fine
• WOT car in 2-3rd gear car goes into limp mode (misfire codes)

What I've had repaired/serviced:

• New spark plugs
• New injectors (Cyl 1-3, warranty would not cover all 6)
• New injector DME flash
• Replaced HPFP
• One o2 sensor replaced (downstream)

Observations: These issues are more obvious when the JB4 is on, less obvious with it on map 0 but still present. Logs have been sent to Terry, no definite conclusion. Car at cruising speeds and modest acceleration runs without issues. Issues only at WOT and cold starts.

Car does run lean at WOT. Tailpipes have significant sut/carbon build up after the mentioned repairs. Tails pipes have started to discolor etc. This was not an "issue" before. Not sure what to take from that?

Suggestions? Is it possible that every single coil went bad at roughly the same time? I have never logged a boost leak code or fuel pressure code. I've been dealing with this issue for 3-4 months...

[VNeBLOB42]

Originally Posted by JonCo

So my issues are...

• Misfire in Cylinders 1-6.
• Two 00000 codes unidentified
• Rough cold start 7/10 times.
• On cold starts car "sputters" for the first few minutes if left idling
• When I start driving it sputters, up until I can get it running at ~5-10mph then it clears up and runs fine
• WOT car in 2-3rd gear car goes into limp mode (misfire codes)

What I've had repaired/serviced:

• New spark plugs
• New injectors (Cyl 1-3, warranty would not cover all 6)
• New injector DME flash
• Replaced HPFP
• One o2 sensor replaced (downstream)

Observations: These issues are more obvious when the JB4 is on, less obvious with it on map 0 but still present. Logs have been sent to Terry, no definite conclusion. Car at cruising speeds and modest acceleration runs without issues. Issues only at WOT and cold starts.

Car does run lean at WOT. Tailpipes have significant sut/carbon build up after the mentioned repairs. Tails pipes have started to discolor etc. This was not an "issue" before. Not sure what to take from that?

Suggestions? Is it possible that every single coil went bad at roughly the same time? I have never logged a boost leak code or fuel pressure code. I've been dealing with this issue for 3-4 months...

Have you tried WalNut Shell blasting? How many miles? It's a possibility that the build up is really bad

[JonCo]

I have not done walnut blasting yet. I am at 51k miles. But ~20k of those miles were put in during the last year. I had to commute heavily for an old job.

This issue only just arose maybe 3k-4k miles ago and has been getting progessively worse.

[VNeBLOB42]

Originally Posted by JonCo

I have not done walnut blasting yet. I am at 51k miles. But ~20k of those miles were put in during the last year. I had to commute heavily for an old job.

This issue only just arose maybe 3k-4k miles ago and has been getting progessively worse.

well if you can reproduce this without JB4 in the car, i would do that route. Get the dealer to investigate it for you under CPO.

the dealer may cover walnut shell blasting to fix the issue. I have read on here that some guys got it done under CPO because of other complications. can't remember what they were.

i did my Walnut blasting around 42k I think, and it wasn't that bad, but my buddy did his at 52k and it was pretty bad.

you can try Walnut shell blasting and if that doesn't work, then it could be another thing.

I hope its not:
Camshaft rectangrings and cam bearing ledges were broken/worn. read second post
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=748784


this thread may be helpful as well.:
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=630121


its funny i got a P29CD misfire cylinder 1 today. Switch to a differ MAP and so far so good. I am going to start with the Coil if it comes back. Came up on a play Pro Tune MAP. lol

[JonCo]

Originally Posted by VNeBLOB42

well if you can reproduce this without JB4 in the car, i would do that route. Get the dealer to investigate it for you under CPO.

the dealer may cover walnut shell blasting to fix the issue. I have read on here that some guys got it done under CPO because of other complications. can't remember what they were.

i did my Walnut blasting around 42k I think, and it wasn't that bad, but my buddy did his at 52k and it was pretty bad.

you can try Walnut shell blasting and if that doesn't work, then it could be another thing.

I hope its not:
Camshaft rectangrings and cam bearing ledges were broken/worn. read second post
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=748784


this thread may be helpful as well.:
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=630121


its funny i got a P29CD misfire cylinder 1 today. Switch to a differ MAP and so far so good. I am going to start with the Coil if it comes back. Came up on a play Pro Tune MAP. lol

Thanks! I appreciate your help. I'm trying a new shops tomorrow that only specializes in BMW and European cars. They have 2 master BMW technicians on staff and will charge my extended warranty for work performed. Hoping for the best!

I first started seeing misfires (the weren't strong enough to throw codes) after trying the auto tune map on the jb4. Since then it's been down hill.

[EB9512]

So I have had no real issues with my stock 335i sedan with sport option. I have 2,000 miles left on Warranty and then my CPO begins. I have just ordered the BMS OCC, CAI, LUX v5.2 AE and COBB AP. I do have the start of a wastegate noise and my dealer has me scheduled for several days in Nov to install winter tires and deal with the rattle. I just had spark plugs and oil change last week. I am scheduled at VS in Illinois the week after I should get my car back in November for Walnut Blasting ( great price special there ) and I am having them do my installs as I am useless under a hood. So my original plan was to just leave everything stock and the COBB in the box until after dealer visit and cleaning/installs at VS.

After reading Jeff's post about a tune showing what areas might be weak in our cars, I am wondering if I should leave my bolt on mods as planned for later....but go ahead and flash with the COBB to just the 93 octane, stock everything else tune. My reasoning is that if I start "showing a weakness" somewhere, I can get that dealt with at the dealer under my warranty or CPO when they do my wastegate/turbos and not after I pay to add my mods only to have to remove them for CPO work. I would simply uninstall the COBB before my November appointment and get them to address the issues. Is this a sound plan? Thanks

[EB9512]

Bump for myself......so selfish

[EB9512]

Bump cause I know everyone's main concern is helping me.....

[EB9512]

Once again...If I post this as a new thread I know I will get a response but I am stubborn.

[VNeBLOB42]

Originally Posted by EBangtson

So I have had no real issues with my stock 335i sedan with sport option. I have 2,000 miles left on Warranty and then my CPO begins. I have just ordered the BMS OCC, CAI, LUX v5.2 AE and COBB AP. I do have the start of a wastegate noise and my dealer has me scheduled for several days in Nov to install winter tires and deal with the rattle. I just had spark plugs and oil change last week. I am scheduled at VS in Illinois the week after I should get my car back in November for Walnut Blasting ( great price special there ) and I am having them do my installs as I am useless under a hood. So my original plan was to just leave everything stock and the COBB in the box until after dealer visit and cleaning/installs at VS.

After reading Jeff's post about a tune showing what areas might be weak in our cars, I am wondering if I should leave my bolt on mods as planned for later....but go ahead and flash with the COBB to just the 93 octane, stock everything else tune. My reasoning is that if I start "showing a weakness" somewhere, I can get that dealt with at the dealer under my warranty or CPO when they do my wastegate/turbos and not after I pay to add my mods only to have to remove them for CPO work. I would simply uninstall the COBB before my November appointment and get them to address the issues. Is this a sound plan? Thanks

Depending on the relationship with your SA, can really determine which mods you should leave on.

the best answer, don't do any. The COBB you will be fine because you can uninstall completely before going in for CPO work and or warranty work.. I strongly recommend waiting till after they resolved any WG or Turbo work.

then add some modes. DCI or a drop in you will be fine. COBB S1 Aggressive I would highly recommend at least a drop in filter and or your CAI.

as for everything else sounds like you are on the right track. I really don't think you will have any issues with misfires, especially after, new SP & Walnut Blasting. But it appears one of my coils are bad on just 52k, so you really can't rule that out.

If you are prone to high outside air temps, I would recommend a FMIC as one of your first mods. You will maintain consistent low Charge Air Temps (90 - 120)(depending on outside air temps and FMIC core size) thus, you will be less prone to pull timing. But then again winter is coming around. EDIT and you are in Michigan.

Enjoy your COBB AP Tune, I am sure you will love it!

[kahoho1]

I have a 335 with Cobb stage 2+ aggressive. I sometimes have cyl 2 misfire issue at WOT so I suspect its the cyl 2 faulty ignition coil. Im thinking if I should just replace the faulty coil or replacing all the coils at once as I heard once a coil fails, the other coils will fail soon. I have 68k miiles on my car and replaced spark plugs once at 43k and done walnut blasting at 67k. How long do the ignition coils last on a 335? Do you guys recommend me to replace just the faulty coil and wait until the others fail?

[Iamstig335]

Originally Posted by kahoho1

I have a 335 with Cobb stage 2+ aggressive. I sometimes have cyl 2 misfire issue at WOT so I suspect its the cyl 2 faulty ignition coil. Im thinking if I should just replace the faulty coil or replacing all the coils at once as I heard once a coil fails, the other coils will fail soon. I have 68k miiles on my car and replaced spark plugs once at 43k and done walnut blasting at 67k. How long do the ignition coils last on a 335? Do you guys recommend me to replace just the faulty coil and wait until the others fail?

I had one fail at 51k, just replaced that one and not 500 miles later another one failed so I replaced the remaining 5 and haven't had any issue in 5k miles.

[kahoho1]

does anyone have the similar experience and would like to share it?

[JETBLK335i]

Hi all. hope this is the right thread, but can anyone tell me if this chart looks ok?

im running proceed REV 2.5 and DCI.

im going to replace the spark plugs as a starting point, but i am throwing the following codes

CD87, 29CD, 29CF, 29CC, CDA7

[Fitz335]

You can add the low pressure fuel sensor to the list of misfire causers.

[Jeohn]

29CD Misfirings, cylinder 1
29CF Misfirings, cylinder 3
29CE Misfirings, cylinder 2
29CC Misfirings, several cylinders
2D25 manipulation cover, maximum air mass

HELP

I have replaced the spark plugs and the coils. Have JP4 and Injen Dual Intake since 50,000. Car started misfiring at 78000, now at 88000. PLease share any and all ideas

[Ms6 to 335i]

Originally Posted by Jeohn

29CD Misfirings, cylinder 1
29CF Misfirings, cylinder 3
29CE Misfirings, cylinder 2
29CC Misfirings, several cylinders
2D25 manipulation cover, maximum air mass

HELP

I have replaced the spark plugs and the coils. Have JP4 and Injen Dual Intake since 50,000. Car started misfiring at 78000, now at 88000. PLease share any and all ideas

fuel injectors

[Bunkei]

Hi there folks, I just got my JB4 installed. Now prior to this, I've been having issues with the car (would stop accelerating/hesitating and then started to run very rough).

I've had the following done:

- Fuel Injectors and Spark Plugs were replaced back in November
- Walnut blasting to remove carbon build up

The good news that the car will now accelerate smoothly to redline on stock boost (most likely due to the decarb that was just done this morning), but on Maps 1 & 5, it will not go to redline and goes into limp mode instead. The errors are:

29CE
29D0
29CC
30FF

The constant symptom that I've been noticing is that idle is uneven--it will idle at 600, then sometimes goes up to 800, then back down to 600. I can also feel misfires every so often. My resident mechanic suggested possibly fuel pump related, and asked if the car takes longer to crank. I said no, but after he left. It did take longer than I consider normal to crank, but I'm wondering if that's the placebo effect.

Any ideas on possible causes would be awesome.

Thank you in advance