[mistryn]

Originally Posted by parapaul

If a £5 tin of switch cleaner fixes the problem you'll be kicking yourself...

With my drive down to London this morning I was kicking myself as soon as I got into the city centre. The car felt fine, no hesitancy, nice crisp power through the rev range, no hesitancy arounf the 2.5k mark. I thought great amazinf what a can of switch cleaner does, I will give the dealer a ring and cancel my appointment for the car that is booked in next week for them to investigate.

Came out of my meeting and drive around for a bit and got a bit lost (now I see why the olympic lanes in centre are the most stupid thing but i shall leave that rant for another thread). As I did a lot of stop/start driving I beleve the temp of the engine got very hot. Couple of occasionas I noticed the hesitancy come back, around the 2.5k mark I would floor it and it just felt flat. i decided not to cancel my appointment at the dealer, I will replace the sensor tommorow (will post pics of its location) and run it for a few more days and see how I go. I also picked up some braided vac hose from GSF car parts thats the right bore and will fit those (I dont think this will have any impact but Ill change them for the correct size)

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...88&hg=11&fg=40
no 16

Originally Posted by rsmallwo

fingers crossed for u!

you have heard from me about my hesitancy at 3k revs...well it appears to have gone, i dont notice any now. Might have just been my cars ecu changing driving style after my small turbo pressure controller and vac hoses got replaced

Thanks mate I hope I get it sorted

[mistryn]

I replaced the boost sensor on the charge intake pipe - this can be done without taking the pipe off but I took it off as I wanted to make sure there was not substantial amount of oil in the pipe.

The sensor is located where the red arrow is - I thought it would be a twist off but it was not budging so out came the plier and twist = broken sensor lol

After i got it out I realised how it fitted, there are 4 prongs and its a twist and pull lol

I replaced the sensor, cleaned the pipe there was not that much oil as can be seen from pics

I also decided to give the egr valve a clean as I was there. Its not as bad as I thought but took a while to clean - car has done 105k miles and I dont think its been cleaned at all. The inlet manifold did look very oily but I think I will leave that till next time. I got the egr cleaned as best as I could. Refitted, cleared the codes and will report back after a few days

[daveleach]

Can I ask what code reader you have fella?

[jimmylad]

Your egr was a lot dirtier than mine which is on about 103K but the oil levels seem similar to mine. For what it's worth I had the inter cooler out to check for oil and there was possibly a spoon full in it which I assume is a continuous amount rather than a build up over the years.

Didn't know about that sensor so will have a clean of mine tomorrow.

[mistryn]

Originally Posted by daveleach

Can I ask what code reader you have fella?

I have an ebay jobbie one, I got it from here but the price seems to have doubled
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-scanne...item20ba4e85e9

I then google the codes.

Originally Posted by jimmylad

Your egr was a lot dirtier than mine which is on about 103K but the oil levels seem similar to mine. For what it's worth I had the inter cooler out to check for oil and there was possibly a spoon full in it which I assume is a continuous amount rather than a build up over the years.

Didn't know about that sensor so will have a clean of mine tomorrow.

Just be carefull when trying to remove the sensor, I think because of the heat it does tend to get stuck and oo much force and it could snap the plastic tabs. I could afford to break mine as I had a new one.

How did you get the intercooler off. i was about to take mine off today but ran out of time. it is held on by 2 screws? then you twist the 2 tabs and then pull?

[daveleach]

Originally Posted by mistryn

I have an ebay jobbie one, I got it from here but the price seems to have doubled
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-scanne...item20ba4e85e9

I then google the codes.

Does it give you p codes?
Did you see the odes I got this morning? Still trying to find th real meaning!

[mistryn]

I dont think it does give me P codes, I get 4 digit codes. I will have a look at your thread in a bit and let you know if anything comes up

[daveleach]

I think the 4 digit codes are genuine BMW ones. I think the reader that was used in my car was a generic one.

[jimmylad]

got the sensor out quite easily ( makes a change) & was just lightly covered in oil. Dried it with a tissue but no doubt it will be misted over again within a few miles.

Inter-cooler comes out as you described.

[mistryn]

Was your old sensor with a yellow plastic tip or white just out of curiosity?

[jimmylad]

Originally Posted by mistryn

Was your old sensor with a yellow plastic tip or white just out of curiosity?

'twas yellow. Couldn't decide how it worked though. Seemed to have a tiny ball thing in the yellow plastic surround.

[mistryn]

i presume after time because of the light misting of oil turns the plastic part yellow. On realoem this is listed as a temperature sensor but given its location IMO it either senses the temp of the boost pressure or senses the pressure of boost itself? I think its the latter in that it caluclates the pressure around the little ball

I have found that sometimes on realoem it can be a bit hit and miss on the description.

[mistryn]

Just another little update to this thread - I think I may have solved my problem. Car feels totally different, I can feel the grunt from low down in the revs and when I get to about 2.5k revs it just keeps on pulling. I may disconenct the sensor and see if it throws up the same code as I had before.

Now all I have to do is get the oil leak around the inlet manifold sorted

[daveleach]

I would really like to buy a decent code reader after the problems I'm having!

[mistryn]

I would buy something very similar to my link, inpa will get you to read the codes and clear simple ones. I know mine has paid for itself past few time

For example, Ive had the airbag light come on in the past, went to my local garage and charged me £20 to clear it. Then it came on further 2x due to a loose connection, then clearing failed bulb warnings it has really paid for itself. Like I say if you was close to me I dont mind lending mine to you

[daveleach]

Originally Posted by mistryn

I would buy something very similar to my link, inpa will get you to read the codes and clear simple ones. I know mine has paid for itself past few time

For example, Ive had the airbag light come on in the past, went to my local garage and charged me £20 to clear it. Then it came on further 2x due to a loose connection, then clearing failed bulb warnings it has really paid for itself. Like I say if you was close to me I dont mind lending mine to you

Thanks for the offer.
Would something like this be suitable


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1209522753...343%26_rdc%3D1

[mistryn]

What year is you car?
Cars after 2009 need different tyoe of lead. Just double check with the seller

Installing the software can be a bit of pain but can be done. I managed to get inpa working with thanks to members on here. DIS is a pain to install which I havent yet got it to work

[daveleach]

56 plate

hey mistryn, i posted this in another post, but I guess, it may be very helpful yet primitive diagnosis and even 1st or 2nd step after the fault codes, since it is very simple, and very much can analyze the power / boost lose.

it can saves you time and money, and maybe even add another power to the car that is lost somewhere within the vacuum system that is not detected by code readers.
It is measuring the vacuum pipes for dummies like me..;-) will try tomorrow.

here is another version and there are other alternatives, but these two seem the easiest.

[Stringbag]

Originally Posted by mistryn

Just another little update to this thread - I think I may have solved my problem. Car feels totally different, I can feel the grunt from low down in the revs and when I get to about 2.5k revs it just keeps on pulling. I may disconenct the sensor and see if it throws up the same code as I had before.

Finally!
Brilliant - I'm pleased for you.

[Stringbag]

Originally Posted by mistryn

I would buy something very similar to my link, inpa will get you to read the codes and clear simple ones. I know mine has paid for itself past few time

For example, Ive had the airbag light come on in the past, went to my local garage and charged me £20 to clear it. Then it came on further 2x due to a loose connection, then clearing failed bulb warnings it has really paid for itself. Like I say if you was close to me I dont mind lending mine to you

Quick question - and sorry for it being totally off topic.
Would one of these cables do the same thing as a bavarian technic cable? (the one you linked to is 1/5 of the price of the BT cable...)
If so, it is easy to set up? (I use a mac and a virtual windows machine just to be awkward, but it works fine with the VW ross-tech cable and VCDS/Vag-com (We also have a golf)).

[mistryn]

I havent used a BT cable before so cant really comment. Its a bit tricky to set up inpa because the poor instructions I got with it as they were for win xp. I could not get it load properly on vista so had to load it on xp (again not sure if it would work on mac)