[HRC]

Look at post #248 on the previous page, the little bag of connectors...


Danny

[mikekilpatrick]

Oh you mean the alligator clips that clamp on to other wires. It seems to me that there should be a connector SOMEWHERE on the internet that would allow tapping into factory Power outlet in console and then running that to rear power outlets. They connectors have got to be made. I hate using those alligator clips, rather make a custom harness.

[mikekilpatrick]

Nobody has a line on aftermarket power adapters for BMWs?

[mikekilpatrick]

What model car was this dual outlet lighter piece originally manufactured to fit? Could hit a junk yard for the wiring adapter if anyone can identify make and model for this option.

[UncleWede]

IIRC, European-targeted cars

[HRC]

Nice work!

Danny

[mikekilpatrick]

Go to your local radio shack and buy one package of each of these (less than $10.00)


Your New Power console! (Color may vary…)



You will notice that the connector from Radio Shack fits PERFECTLY onto the black connector on your new power outlet piece. It’s an oval going into a triangular female connector (white connector), BUT, the bottom edge is keyed flat so once you wire your custom harness; it will be fool proof to put on in the future.



Use a special trim remover tool (can be bought at sears or local auto parts store) to break loose the top edge of the left and right side of the old console. Just put the tool in the crack, near the top, and twist gently.



Stick your special tool up from the bottom and release the plastic latch that is attached to the tit of the main part of the console. You can feel where it is with your fingers and then insert trim tool and again twist gently, releasing latch on the left and right side.

Yes, that is my sweat there, also cut myself on plastic during installation. They say any project requires blood and sweat to get it completed, well, I take that literally! lol


Inside of old rear console



Insert a small flathead screwdriver into the wiring receptacle side that has the longer edge, gently pry the plastic away from the wire connector, pull on the wire gently, and the wire will release.




Ok, now you have to take out your cigarette lighter tray by release three tabs on the bottom. I released each tab and applied a gentle, but firm, pull to the tray on the opposite side so that once a connector released, it would be prevented from sliding back into a locking position.


There are 2 plastic tabs on the opposite side of the ash tray assembly that can be easily released with a flat head screwdriver.


Since you RARELY have access to this area, I find it a good idea to clean the vent area and the vent itself as a lot of dust tends to accumulate in this area. Plus it make it look good when you are done!


You can see the amount of dust on a car that is only 2 yrs old with 20k miles!



Now when you tap the console power outlet wires, make sure to tap out of the SHORT 8-10 inch section that runs from the main harness. It will be BROWN/RED in color. You see, if you ever screw this short wire up, you can always replace it with minimal time and expense!




First, I crimped two 6 inch wires in place on two of the metal male connectors that came with the Radio Shack package. (I used orange and black to represent power and ground easily)
Second, I soldered each wire to the connector. Now this is not absolutely necessary, but when I am connecting power wires, I really don’t like taking a chance of short.
Third, I used a pair of small needle nose pliers to make the hollow male connectors just a little bit smaller so they fit into the dual power outlet factory wiring harness. (It’s a bit of trial and error, but basically, you want to take the gap out of the connector and fold about a half millimeter of the metal under itself. They metal is pretty flexible, so it does not take that long.) Also make sure you ensure the metal tabs (see third picture above) are still flared out a bit as they tend to get pushed flush while you are modifying the connector.



As you can see, the new radio shack connector mates perfectly to factory harness on new dual power cover.




The last thing you do is crimp on the blue connectors to the 8 inch wiring harness wires going to your power outlet within you console. (Note: when you do this, cut one of your 2 custom wires you just made about 1 inch shorter than the other. This allows you to crimp in to the factory harness without worrying about shorting out one another and it also saves space in your console)
Also make sure to use a voltmeter to double check your connections before you put everything back together. Those blue crimp on connectors don’t always make solid contact!



The Clean, shiny, dual power outlet competion! Have fun!

[mikekilpatrick]

Did these help anybody? Anyone at all?

[mosport70]

Originally Posted by mikekilpatrick

Did these help anybody? Anyone at all?

Yes, thanks for the research and the pics/DIY.

[Daz(Teesside)]

Slightly off topic but same step that I'm stuck on. I have the 12v sockets but want to install an ashtray, I've released the top clips of the rear trim but the bottom 2 just won't budge and i've tried for about half an hour - is there a best way to release the bottom clips?

Thanks

Darren

[mikekilpatrick]

All I can say is make sure you have one of the trim removal tools (as shown in the pictures) Insert in the bottom as shown and twist gently. Put both the seats all the way forward and shine a flashlight up from the bottom, you should be able to see the snap in tab I am talking about. It WILL release once you give it a twist.

Hope that helps,

Mike

[Majikthese42]

Originally Posted by mikekilpatrick

Did these help anybody? Anyone at all?

I constructed a "jumper" harness for the rear outlets using the white Radio Shack connectors. The connectors were not identical to the BMW connectors and required a little bit of whittling to fit, but they work fine. I did not tap into the BMW wiring harness.

Good of you to take the time and post photos -- my level of frustration was too high!

[gmfm]

Just got done with this and a big thank you to everyone here. I got the part for $60 at my local dealer with the BMWCCA discount. I did have some trouble removing the trim piece and ended up breaking 1 of the things the lower clips hang on to in the console during removal (not the clip itself, unfortunately), and then the other popped off when reinstalling. Since it wasn't flush I ended up epoxying the plastic pieces back into position and now it looks like new.

[sixofour]

that happy face just cracked me up!

[Zeppelin]

Many thanks to the OP for a great DIY. I added a wrinkle since I didn't want to hardwire the 12v receptacles. Went to my auto parts store and got a two pin connector, butt end connectors, and splices. I tried my local BMW parts to try and find the plug that would fit the connector that comes with the new rear console piece. Lots of looking, but no joy - so the connector had to go.

Helps to pull the front seat as forward as possible to get a little working room. A little tough getting the bottom unhooked on the "old" rear console piece - needed a bit for force than I expected.

Retrofit as per OP, except wiring the receptacles for the two pin connector and splicing the other half of the connector on to the existing red and brown wire inside the rear console.

Hopefully pictures help show what I used and how plug attaches to "new" console. Plenty of room to stuff the wires in when you snap the new console in place.

[ergoyo]

Originally Posted by mikekilpatrick

Did these help anybody? Anyone at all?

As a tweak to all the previous, I bought a Molex M93 kit (3 sets) and doubled the male pins going into the car's connector. On their other end I had dedicated connectors for both the console lighter and the robot.

That was all, no cutting, splicing, tapping or any other non-reversible fix. Everything returns back to normal when you want, 100% pnp.

[spdy330]

Can you tell me where you purchased this Molex plug? Did you need to wire the plug up to each other or just the side to the lighter outlets?

My guess is that these were the plugs only and you supplied the black and white wires.


Thanks and grerat job!

Originally Posted by ergoyo

As a tweak to all the previous, I bought a Molex M93 kit (3 sets) and doubled the male pins going into the car's connector. On their other end I had dedicated connectors for both the console lighter and the robot.

That was all, no cutting, splicing, tapping or any other non-reversible fix. Everything returns back to normal when you want, 100% pnp.

[ergoyo]

Originally Posted by spdy330

Can you tell me where you purchased this Molex plug? Did you need to wire the plug up to each other or just the side to teh lighter outlets?

My guess is that these were the plugs only and you supplied the black and white wires.


Thanks and grerat job!

The set of Molex M93s and pins (F/M) you can buy at Frys ($2), and yes, the black and white are mines. Not sure about your question, but what I did was easy. On the car's end you have females, so you take one one of the Molex's half and two males connectors to it (each male you will double up, so you have 2 + 2). Keep a close eye on which are your 2 live and which are your two grounds. Then you need to note that the console and the robot's connection are not the same connectors, one uses a male and the other female, so on the other end of the 2+2 you must one male pair and one female pair of pins and connectors. I know it is hard to explain but when you open it up you'll see what I am talking about. Oh, lastly, the molex going into the console's must be filed (made roundish) on one of the sides and a groove must be open lengthwise in order to go in the car's connector. Again, when you buy the molex and open up the console you'll see what I am talking about.
Also, be careful when first removing your old lighter panel, if you're not careful, you'll break the two tabs on the side. I broke mines because I didnt know where to apply the pressure.

[tmarshall57]

I,ve just complete this on my UK 07 330D E90 with beige interior. I wish I had done it 3 years ago.

I used the storage option (as per the picture in post above) rather than the ash tray using parts 3, 8 and 9 from the diagram at http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...25&hg=51&fg=35

I cut off the harness connector at the rear of the new cover and then used 4 Scotchlok connectors: 1 each to splice the 2 red and brown wires together at the rear of the new cover and 1 each to splice the single red and brown wires (resulting from the earlier step) to the red and brown wires on the existing harness leading to the armrest power socket.

The job took less than an hour and required just a pair of pliers.

I bought the parts from Williams Bolton, took a week to arrive from Germany and cost £60 including VAT

[spdy330]

I did this for my friend a few weeks ago and his had some type of moduel attahced to the bottom panel. When we put the pocket in below the dual outlets there was no place to snap that electronic box back to. We ended up and pushed it in a corner out of the way. Has anyone else seen what I am talking about and what is it?

I wish I took a photo of it but I am sure some of you will know exactly what it is.

Where do the cars in Germany put this moduel or do they even have it??


Any input appreciated.

[cwaters]

Just finished with this mod. It's going to be great for our big spring road trip. The kids will thank me after hour three when their iPods die
Thanks for the write-ups and part numbers!!!!!

[Brent]

Gentlemen: I may have found a source for the original BMW connectors (at least the plastic housing halves). I just ordered some, and will let you know when they arrive if they are indeed the correct items. If they are, I will post the vendor, part numbers, price, etc.

Took about a week of contacting various vendors, but I am hopeful that we have it now!

One of the reasons that I wanted them was just so everything is OEM BMW. Another erason was that I had picked up the Radio Shack Molex units, and the pin connectors themselves (the small units that go on to the end of the wire) are some really cheezy aluminum units, and I fear that they may short. I could replace them easily enough, but I started searching for OEM, and then found a place that says they have the OEM 2 pole units... not sure if they will come with pins, but that is no big deal. Those can be bought very easily.