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Noob's questions on rims... and life.
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01-21-2008, 03:31 PM | #1 |
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Noob's questions on rims... and life.
This is the first time I've thought about re-shoeing my ride and the first time I've been in a position to do it. Just looking though posts I'm starting to learn a good bit about the process, but there are some things I haven't been able to come up with answers to, even though I've searched. I understand some of the basics, such as how to read tire sizes (255/35-18, etc), the difference between cast and forged wheels (but not which is better and when it's better), run-flats suck and the fact that CSL's are drop dead sexy. However, once you get past that, I'm a little lost. Without further ado, lets rock and roll:
1. What's a staggered (v. non-staggered) setup? It seems like our cars come factory with a staggered setup, but at some sites, you can buy staggered or non-staggered. Any advantages to either? 2. What is offset, how is it measured? 3. Where do eye boogies come from? 4. Are stock BMW rims cast or forged? Why are the factory BMW rims so expensive aftermarket? 5. From the pictures in a post called 'To buy or not to buy Iforged? Everyone reply please..' it looks like the Iforged wheels are made by welding a center to a rim. I haven't seen the back of a set, but judging by the way the spokes blend into the rim on some wheels, it looks like they're machined from a solid chunk of that good ol' 6061-T6. I'm thinking of something like Morr's, for example. Is this true? Are there two different ways to make a forged rim? 7. Are some makes of rims banned at tracks? Are forged better than cast for general driving and track duty? I only want to know this to help better advise others. I would never take my car to a track or drag strip, according to BMW, this is sin #1. 8. What happened to #6? 9. Would anyone feel like making a sticky 'Wheels FAQ' type of thing? Heck, in exchange to answers to these questions, I'll type it up if someone wants to proof-read it before I post. 10. What's the meaning of life? 11. Am I out of questions? -Yes, for now. Thanks in advance for any input! |
01-21-2008, 05:08 PM | #2 |
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2. From the center of the rim to the hub (contactpoint between the rim and the car).
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01-21-2008, 05:25 PM | #3 | |||||
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Quote:
Non-staggered = width of wheels same in front and rear. Able to rotate tires front and rear. Theoretically less understeer as well. Basically offset will effect how far your wheels will be pushed in or out from the center of the car. http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/tech/...urrentpage=107 Particulates left after the water from your eye fluids have evaporated. Quote:
BMW rims are expensive because the dealer knows they can mark up prices and the average BMW driver will not know any better and will just buy them. Quote:
Forged wheels can also be made out of several pieces. This can be where the barrel of the wheel is made from some other process and the center is made from forged material. There are 2-piece and 3-piece wheels. Some are riveted together. Some welded. That's the extent of my knowledge on the subject. Quote:
Forged = more expensive...but usually stronger and lighter than an equivalent sized cast wheel. In general terms, a forged wheel is better. It will reduce wheel mass and theretically help with handling, braking and acceleration. Some users of multi-piece forged wheels (such as HRE and iForged) have complained of stress cracking from using these wheels on the track. I have heard rumours on E90post that some tracks banned HRE. I don't know how true this is. Lots of happy HRE and iForged users out there. If you really want a multi-piece forged wheel for track driving...consider the BBS LM-R. Light and used by racing teams around the world. Or go with a monoblock forged wheel. Having said that...I would bet most people tracking their BMW will use a 17" or 18" cast wheel instead of a 19" forged wheel. First of all...cast wheels are cheap. And if they are small (17" for example) they are light too. Also they can get cheaper tires too. Don't know. Quote:
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