[achu]

Originally Posted by achu

hi from the UK, really need some help!

2007 E93 335i on 77k with JB4

i'm having a misfire issue too but it's a strange one... i really don't want to make a long ass post as i know they're annoying to read!

basically if i put my foot down more than about 50%, i get a loss in power (almost like the traction control kicked in) and then a misfire... the engine management light doesn't come up though... nor does the limp mode message...

after about 20 seconds of misfiring at idle, the car goes back to normal... and drives like normal if i drive gently... i can also get the misfire to go if i just restart it...

also when driving a bit rapidly (but not putting my foot down) i can feel tiny moments of loss of power, almost like the car is hesitant... it's so slight a passenger probably won't feel it but i can... and it happens around once or twice every 15mins...

the crank is snappy and sweet, idle is very steady and revving in neutral is perfect all the way to redline... i have a JB4 installed (i was on map 5) but this happens at map 0... i've replaced my coil packs (they were the originals) and spark plugs (might as well) but no joy...

when i checked the codes the first time, i had:
29DC Cylinder injection switch-off
29CF Misfirings, cylinder 3
29D0 Misfirings, cylinder 4
29CC misfire, multiple cylinder

but I think these may have been stored from before... I cleared them and did a WOT pull to get the problem to happen and read the codes immediately after:
29DC Cylinder injection switch-off

I'm thinking it's the LPFP but I don't want to guess as I don't have the time and this car is my daily......

any help would be greatly appreciated!

(some extra info: the car had a few hiccups over the last few months under WOT - the car would lose power, EML would come on and then go in a minute... this happened about 3 times in 4 months... also every now and then, if rev up slowly but all the way to 4k or so in gear 2 (going up a hill or something), the limp mode light comes up and then goes in 5mins or so)

if anybody has similar issues - it was my HPFP (car also got a walnut blast and new pressure converters as it was leaking boost)...

my crank was as quick as usual so i didn't think it would be the HPFP but goes to show that the long crank isnt always a symptom!

[aus]

I only have an old Turbo Tuner on my 2007 335 and was on the throttle part way to pass (no close to flat), and the engine stuttered and then was rough and had reduced for about 15 miles. "Check engine soon" light went on but no the half engine light.
I then exited the freeway and turned right and then everything was fine. Engine was smooth again and I had power again. I read the codes via Carly app and it showes:

Misfire detection cylinder 1 in 1 Firing order 29CD
Misfire Cyl 6 29D2
Misfire detection erro summation 29CC

It seems ok now. I've had some of the injectors replaced under the recall, but not all.
I'm about the bring the car in to CarMax to sell and don't want to put much back into the car at this point. I did notice some stuttering when I got on the gas a few times the last few days.
I've had the walnut blasting at 60,000 miles and have 77,800 on it now.
Any insight is much appreciated.

.

[bpdef29]

Originally Posted by achu

if anybody has similar issues - it was my HPFP (car also got a walnut blast and new pressure converters as it was leaking boost)...

my crank was as quick as usual so i didn't think it would be the HPFP but goes to show that the long crank isnt always a symptom!

I'm getting the same thing. Feels like traction control kicks and shakes for 30 sec when I get on it and then it goes away. No codes besides misfire.

Did you have to replicate it in its stock form at the dealer/have HPFP codes or did you just show up and tell them what had been happening and they replaced it?

I also happen to have a tiny boost leak as well and I fixed just about everything possible...did the dealer find and replace those as well?

[achu]

Originally Posted by bpdef29

I'm getting the same thing. Feels like traction control kicks and shakes for 30 sec when I get on it and then it goes away. No codes besides misfire.

Did you have to replicate it in its stock form at the dealer/have HPFP codes or did you just show up and tell them what had been happening and they replaced it?

I also happen to have a tiny boost leak as well and I fixed just about everything possible...did the dealer find and replace those as well?

we in the UK are not as lucky as you guys in the US, I had to pay an independent specialist to do the repairs so it didn't matter that the car was modified...

the specialists found more codes than I did... they could monitor the fuel inputs and see the flucuations (which in my case were crazy, so they knew straight it was the HPFP)... they also got codes of boost leak which i never found...

i would revert your car back to stock and just let the dealers handle it... if it's your HPFP you're okay, if it's not just pay them for diagnosis and let an indy sort it for you (unless you're covered by warranty but I'm guessing you're not as you've posted here lol)....

[bimmer_in_cm]

Ive read this post from top to bottom trying to figure out what my mystery misfire is At this point ill just add to it since i have yet to figure out my problem. I have a misfire in cyl #3 for about a month now, here is a list of things ive already did and what has been replaced on car.

1) replaced all injectors with index 10
2) replaced all coils & plugs
3) walnut shelled the intake valves
4) New turbos at 75k under recall
5) hpfp done under recall

I can pull the spark plug at any given time on cyl #3 and the plug will be wet and black. I can clean the plug and run the car and it will run great till it heats up then it goes back into limp mode with misfire again?

Sorry my first post had to be so positive lol

Car is currently @ Socal Robs being diagnosed...fingers crossed i dont have to part this car out and be at a total loss...FML!

[bpdef29]

Originally Posted by achu

we in the UK are not as lucky as you guys in the US, I had to pay an independent specialist to do the repairs so it didn't matter that the car was modified...

the specialists found more codes than I did... they could monitor the fuel inputs and see the flucuations (which in my case were crazy, so they knew straight it was the HPFP)... they also got codes of boost leak which i never found...

i would revert your car back to stock and just let the dealers handle it... if it's your HPFP you're okay, if it's not just pay them for diagnosis and let an indy sort it for you (unless you're covered by warranty but I'm guessing you're not as you've posted here lol)....

Thanks for the response; I'll let you know how it goes....thank god I just ordered my downpipes and they aren't on the car yet. Taking them off for a diagnosis would have been a nightmare

[TacoCodeRed]

Ive been through a lot with this car in the past 2 years. Nothing really major but still cannot get it to run a tune without problems. I nixed the Procede after a year of having it (ended up being a hardware problem) now I have a G5 JB4 which throws misfires all the time. I can't get on the car without one (or multiple). Driving normally and at idle there are zero problems.

So far in the past 6 months I've had this done:
New index 12 injectors
New NGK 6043 plugs gapped to 0.022
New HPFP (low was done shortly before I got the car)
Carbon blasting
and finally new Delphi GN10328 coils

After putting in the coils I was hoping for it to go away but it did not. It did perform a bit better, but at the top of 2-3 and 3-4 pulls it would kick out another misfire.

The most recent were a cyl 1 and cyl 2 misfire (1 first then both) and I just put the new coils in today.

Attached are two of the runs I did today, my expertise stops at the parts, any help here would be appreciated. I would like my car to actually be able to walk someone instead of sitting down on the highway and making me look like an idiot.

[Jeff@TopGearSolutions]

Originally Posted by TacoCodeRed

Ive been through a lot with this car in the past 2 years. Nothing really major but still cannot get it to run a tune without problems. I nixed the Procede after a year of having it (ended up being a hardware problem) now I have a G5 JB4 which throws misfires all the time. I can't get on the car without one (or multiple). Driving normally and at idle there are zero problems.

So far in the past 6 months I've had this done:
New index 12 injectors
New NGK 6043 plugs gapped to 0.022
New HPFP (low was done shortly before I got the car)
Carbon blasting
and finally new Delphi GN10328 coils

After putting in the coils I was hoping for it to go away but it did not. It did perform a bit better, but at the top of 2-3 and 3-4 pulls it would kick out another misfire.

The most recent were a cyl 1 and cyl 2 misfire (1 first then both) and I just put the new coils in today.

Attached are two of the runs I did today, my expertise stops at the parts, any help here would be appreciated. I would like my car to actually be able to walk someone instead of sitting down on the highway and making me look like an idiot.

NGK 6043? This is the first time I'm hearing of people using that specific part number. Unless you know with a 100% certainty they are ok that may be the issue.

The go-to was 5992 which the Superseding Part Number is NGK 95770 ILZKBR7B8DG

I personally run Bosch OEM.

Any other codes?
Have you tried cleaning the vanos solenoids and swapping them?

[TacoCodeRed]

Originally Posted by Jeff@TopGearSolutions

NGK 6043? This is the first time I'm hearing of people using that specific part number. Unless you know with a 100% certainty they are ok that may be the issue.

The go-to was 5992 which the Superseding Part Number is NGK 95770 ILZKBR7B8DG

I personally run Bosch OEM.

Any other codes?
Have you tried cleaning the vanos solenoids and swapping them?

I used that after doing about a days worth of research on here.
My initial thought after getting all kinds of random misfires and they never followed the coil swap was the plugs.

Vanos solenoids were also replaced shortly before I bought the car.
Almost everything was including the turbos.
My best friend is also a BMW mechanic so most things he catches but I hate trying to troubleshoot with him when he is outside of work.

All the codes are misfire related. I just swapped in the new coils today and only got those two after about 6-8 runs

[bimmer_in_cm]

Originally Posted by TacoCodeRed

I used that after doing about a days worth of research on here.
My initial thought after getting all kinds of random misfires and they never followed the coil swap was the plugs.

Vanos solenoids were also replaced shortly before I bought the car.
Almost everything was including the turbos.
My best friend is also a BMW mechanic so most things he catches but I hate trying to troubleshoot with him when he is outside of work.

All the codes are misfire related. I just swapped in the new coils today and only got those two after about 6-8 runs

Read up on bad mosfets in the dme. I wish that was my prob, unfortunately i have oil on the bottom of #3 plug so im looking at a new engine. I did all the steps that cobb recommended and still had a misfire. Long story short i wasted 1200 bucks for nothing.

[TacoCodeRed]

I actually replaced all 6 mosfets before replacing everything I listed due to 2 of them going bad. So that's no longer the problem (it was a huge pain though)

[bimmer_in_cm]

Originally Posted by TacoCodeRed

I actually replaced all 6 mosfets before replacing everything I listed due to 2 of them going bad. So that's no longer the problem (it was a huge pain though)

My bad!...Well i hope you don"t have an oily plug on the spark side of one of those misfires. My misfire on #3 cyl turned out to be a bad cylinder or bad rings, either way its costing me 4k to fix

[swollix]

Car goes into limp mode and loses power whenever I go WOT. I had the codes read and I am throwing a 29DC code. He rode with me while I was driving and the low pressure hPa was dropping into the 3000 range when I went WOT. At idle it was in the 5,000s and the high pressure pump was always 50,000+. Put in new LOW PRESSURE fuel pump and it is doing the same thing! I noticed the car runs better when it's cold. The first few minutes after putting in the new pump, I was actually able to hit WOT... but once the engine is warmer it goes back to running on three cylinders. Code I keep getting on generic scanner is P142e, once I got a p3090. Car has no issues starting or idling, idles at 600 perfect and starts nearly immediately.

[spyderlinke92]

I did some work on my car today and now I'm getting this dreaded Cylinder 4 Misfire...

The car was bone stock to start. I purchased it about 2 weeks ago, and the guy I bought it from said he just had the spark plugs changed.

Today I installed DPs, DCI and Cobb AP V2. I didn't drive the car between any of the new parts, so I don't know where the problem started, but I'm assuming it's from the Cobb AP. I had no issues at all with the car before any mods, even with hard pulls and WOT. I installed stage 2 sport ST, and immediately threw a CEL at about 3500 rpm WOT in all gears. So I brought it back home and moved to stage 1 drive ST, and having the exact same issue. If I hold about 3/4 throttle, I can go all the way up to 6k rpm and never throw a CEL. I used the AP to clear the code, and the second the CEL was gone, the car started running beautifully again. So again, I dropped the tune down to stage 0 to see if that would stop it, but same issue again. So I gave up. Brought the AP inside and hooked it up to the manager, and sure enough it needed an update. That's as far as I've gotten so far.

The misfire is on Cylinder 4 every time. From reading around the forums, I will try the coil pack swap and see if the issue moves to another cylinder then go from there.

Any other advice besides plugs, injectors and coil packs would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks

[spyderlinke92]

** UPDATE **

I took the engine bay apart today and swapped coil packs between cylinder 2 and 4 (where I was getting the misfire), took it out for a quick test drive and now cylinder 2 is misfiring... so I ran into the parts store and picked up an Echlin coil (part IC682) and replaced it with cylinder 2. Again, went out for a test drive and NO misfire!! Super excited now about that, so I'm installing the AP again and hoping no issues pop back up. Now to just fix the stupid WG rattle, that is much louder now with the DPs installed.

[BRMTDI]

Is your ECU MSD80?

[benton0311]

Trying to determine whether my issue is plugs or coils.

Car: N54, 103k miles, JB4, intercooler, cone filters. Intercooler added at 75k and cone filters at 90k.

My spark plugs (OEM Bosch) are only lasting 10k miles before I get misfire codes and need to replace the plugs. Once I replace the plugs everything is fine until I hit another 10k miles and I get misfires again. Misfires are only under WOT when it appears the spark can no longer overcome the resistance/gap under full boost. The car has been tuned since I bought it new in 2008 and I used to be able to get 15 - 20k on the plugs a few years ago. I begin to get misfires almost exactly every 10k miles – I’d say 10.5k miles for Map 5 and 12k miles for Map 1 before I get misfire codes. Regardless of where the misfire occurs the problem goes away as soon as I change plugs.

My question: do the coil packs actually weaken over time or do they just fail outright (i.e. maybe idle ok but get misfires all over as opposed to only full boost). I used to be under the impression they could weaken and generally seem OK but lately I've been reading they usually either work or they don't and there really is no in between.

I'm trying to determine:
Are the plugs not lasting as long due to driving habits or latest tune update
OR
Have the coils now weakened enough that the spark can't overcome the gap as the electrodes wear after 10k miles of use

I think I’ve ruled out fuel/VANOS/valves since new plugs fix the issue. I just have to replace them more often than I think is normal.

[cwbmw]

Just did a Cobb Stage 1 drive flash...

Car went to shit lol. Misfires cylinder 4, fuel pump warning. Turbos sound like shit when they get to mid-boost and make a weird vibration.

Going to flash back to stage 0 and replace all my plugs/coils and walnut blast intake before tuning again.

Dammit!

[steezus]

Occasionally I'm getting the 30FE over boost code with the accompanying 3100 low boost engaged. Running Map 5 on JB4 G5 ISO. Spark plugs just changed maybe 200 miles ago. It doesn't even happen when I'm at WOT - I want to say it's when I'm getting up in RPMs slowly.
I just had VRSF downpipes put on but the code was coming up before they were installed.

I randomly started logging using the JB4 app and had it running when the code popped up.

I got the JB4 used off a member who had a FBO 335i, so I'm not sure if there's any settings I need to change. Currently only using the app though.

Anyone care to help me figure it out?

http://datazap.me/u/steezus/log-1487...log=0&data=1-4

[e92sidhu]

Hey guys, so i have a 2008 bmw 335i n54 with 93,500k on it- the car has a intake,exhuast and a tune ( which i didnt know it had one til someone told me ) is there anyway to find out what tune ? its not jb+ or jb4... but i just bought this about 2 months ago....under WOT the SES would come on after about 20 mins of driving it, got the car checked out at a well known place they said it was giving vanos intake code, misfire in 1 and 5...
so the stuff i done so have -
- all new 6 plugs
- new coils for 1,5 - they were replaced last year also
-walnut blast done
- cleaned vanos.. shop has been busy so they didnt look more into it yet any suggestions ? thanks!!

[dpaul]

This one seems a little different - perhaps someone has a thought.

Misfire on cylinder 6 that occurs only when engine is cold, very quickly after startup. Happens every single startup without fail. No other codes. Always cyl 6.

Once warm, there are no problems at all, WOT is fine, idle is absolutely smooth

I've swapped, then replaced all the plugs and all the coils. No change. I replaced injector 6 then swapped injectors between various cylinders, replacing the black O-ring at the same time. No change. Also, neither plugs nor injectors ever came out wet and/or black. Walnut blast performed - no change.

Engine is FBO w/ inlets and outlets although JB4 is removed and DME flashed back to stock for diagnosis. Compression and leakdown in in cyl 2-6 are fine; cyl 1 compression is 12% lower than the others. Has a number of new parts installed over the past two years: VANOS actuators (for codes related to VANOS function), DME (for MOSFET failure), DMFW and clutch, boost solenoids, vacuum lines, bank 2 pre-cat O2 sensor.

One last problem is a modest bucking or surging that only occurs at very light throttle at low rpm, as when moving off from a stop. No idea if it is related or not but both issues started occurring around the same time.

Anyone seem anything similar?

[GEOS07335i]

I had multiple misfires on my 08 335i 124k took me a month to figure it out. swapped out coils, plugs, injectors, cleaned vanos silonoids, walnut blasting, compression test. In the end I fixed the issue by swapping out both precat O2 sensors and resetting all adaptations in INPA 2x. Most of my misfires were on BANK 2. O2 sensors only good for 100k. I had no codes for 02 sensors at all. My car is totally stock for now.