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JBD or DTUK?
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04-22-2013, 01:57 PM | #23 |
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That's my issue.
I'd not have a proper map written to the car as that would be very obvious. That's the appeal of these removable tuning boxes... But if the ecu remembers different parameters going above factory then you're still in the crap.! I may just leave it.. UK cars are 286 std and tbh it's never really wanting.! |
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04-22-2013, 02:01 PM | #24 | |
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Previous BMWs: 1971 BMW 2002, 1973 BMW R75/5, and 2011 BMW 335d Previous Other Vehicles: '67 Cougar, '70 911e, '86 Jetta Diesel, '05 and '12 Foresters, et al. |
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12-11-2013, 02:22 AM | #25 |
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Hi guys,
I would like to steer the discussion back to the topic's subject: JBD vs DTUK. Not repros. I have been running a DTUK for almost a year, and I've been quite happy with it. I use the setting that increases boost more, and can run it at +2 without any major issues. However, not that long ago I tried the setting that increases fuelling more, and really preferred that type of power/torque delivery (maybe it's me, but it felt more immediate). The issue I'm having is that I get limp mode on anything other than +0, so I really feel I'm missing on quite some power. Lately I started wondering if I wouldn't be better off switching to a JBD. The bonus being that if I can get the same increase in performance without increasing boost, it should be easier on my turbos (?). The bottom line is: has anyone tried both products, and does anyone have any objective comparison of performance? I'm really not interested in anything other than piggybacks for the time being. |
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12-11-2013, 04:41 AM | #26 |
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Bicax I cannot attest for either one I hv RENNtech
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12-13-2013, 01:56 PM | #27 |
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Bicax: I used to run a DTUK CRD-T on my previous 320D. Wish i never sold it now.
Only got limp mode when set at +3 and not letting the oil warm up. Once i started letting the oil warm up, there was never limp mode. On my current 335D i cant decide between DTUK and a remap. Remap is about £100 cheaper, and better, so may do that. Just worried about warranty so might just get the box until it runs out. |
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12-13-2013, 03:04 PM | #28 | |
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Basically everyone should get the JBD with CAN took or go all out with Renntech and u
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My concerns- 1) confusion by comparison: It wasn't introduced as well, or at least the way I would've introduced it. They should've searched out a user (ME!) or a Dyno they could get to locally for before and after runs with torque and rpm, and it probably cost them a small percentage in sales due to unknowns and the somewhat confusing/misleading power per mph Dyno they published. I know why they did it that way but the truck community of diesels in Southern California are able to post proper Dyno runs so BMS should've too! But I wasn't there and I don't know if it wasn't viewed as a highly sellable item... Again, I just think their Dyno chart leads people to investigate other items instead of immediately clicking "buy". 2) people posting their JBD "issues" with limp mode: The negatives are widely unfounded since running it at 100% is KNOWN to cause a limp mode of sorts if you push it hard before letting it warm up, but running it at say 85% never causes a limp mode. If you leave it at 100%, you're only getting 7-8hp at the crank over leaving it at 85% according to their Dyno (304 vs 308). All that to say I have run the JBD at 85% for many miles now and I'm just flat out blown away. When I remove it for the dealer, the car is boring and tame by comparison. I remember buying my car and some days thinking it was fast and other days feeling like it was a tank with good torque and no hp or power band... Which I still feel. That's all that really matters for us street only guys. How does it feel and how does it make you feel? Is it fun? When comparing JBD to other tools these aren't the questions we ask, but when driving this is indeed all that I care about. Nothing like installing that new part and then going for the test drive! Here is why JBD is the one to buy. I can remove or install in approximately 2 minutes. It's one plug. Peel the JBD sticker off and guide it behind the drivers side headlight where it stuffs nicely and looks like just another OEM covered wire bundle. It adds 40whp and 50+ft/lb torque for $300. It has zero negative side effects. It has one slightly bummer issue: Fuel mileage goes down slightly, actually, I've noticed a definite trend after going back and forth... even if driven the same I average 25.5-26.5 per tank with it and 27-28.5 without it. Who cares. That equates to one gallon of diesel per tank less...$4. I fill up twice a month. It costs me $100 per year to have a 300 HP/465 tq (at the crank, and approximate) great looking car that achieves 26mpg avg. No matter which took you use to increase power you'll have a similar experience. The JBD is the easier and cheaper way to get the same experience. |
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12-14-2013, 02:12 AM | #30 |
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The JBD works great. I had one on my old 335d, and it made a huge difference. Not only did it pull harder, it eliminated the "dead spot" that I got on initial roll-out. I've seen videos of JBD-equipped cars hitting 0-60 in under 4.5 seconds.
I have one for sale, along with a BT cable, for US$200 if you are interested. J |
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12-14-2013, 07:27 AM | #31 |
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I think all the comments about the JBD are fair, but they also apply to the DTUK.
The DTUK is also: 1) Easy to install 2) Great power gains The USP of the DTUK is it connects to the common rail and boost pressure pipe. It has 4 maps: Map 1: Basic (i.e fuel and boost are increased) Map 2: Basic + increased fuelling Map 3: Basic + increased boost Map 4: Just increased fuelling, and no increase of boost. So like most other boxes. I can't decide now whether to get a remap, or get a DTUK box again. |
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12-14-2013, 10:39 AM | #32 | |
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What I'm more interested in is actual figures, someone who has tried both and has comparative dyno runs, or something of the sort. The only difference between both piggy backs is the price, and the fact that one increases the boost and the other doesn't (different car behaviour I assume). I've seen posts stating that the DTUK increases power by 70hp (from 280 to 350), and posts stating that the JBD increases power by 40hp (from 260 to 300). But has anyone run any dynos with both? I don't doubt that both products work well, I'm just interested in how they compare against each other performance wise. Last edited by Bicax; 12-14-2013 at 11:38 AM.. |
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12-14-2013, 10:47 AM | #33 |
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I had the exact same doubt. For me the determining factor was the fact that my car was still under warranty. Otherwise I would have gone with an IC, DPF delete and remap. And the turbo upgrade that Tiago did is also very tempting :-)
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12-14-2013, 12:03 PM | #34 | ||
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I say it's the one to get because it is equal and cheaper to dtuk. Ridden in a dtuk car and owned my JBD car and there's no noticeable difference. As I said, actual Dyno runs would be the best comparison. |
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12-14-2013, 12:56 PM | #35 | |
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OP see this thread: http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=607689 Post 18: Dyno of 335D with DTUK. 339bhp and 510lb/ft |
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12-14-2013, 01:31 PM | #36 | |
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In any case, until we see a real comparison you can't say for sure that the JBD is better. Butt dynos don't count :-) |
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12-14-2013, 01:32 PM | #37 | ||
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Edit: I've seen 285whp dynos from a user at machv I think with the JBD, but we don't have the "before" Dyno. I haven't seen the claimed 308whp BMS got anywhere... It must have got 260+ whp stock on that Dyno though. I'm open to upping to the dtuk if data changes my mind, but a few (5-10) hp to stress the turbos is not worth it... If it's more on the other hand, maybe it's worth it after all :-) |
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12-14-2013, 02:04 PM | #38 | |
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It might as well not be an option if it causes limp mode and I've read multiple users saying only the base setting works without flaw, which is my whole argument to use JBD at 85% and call it a day. |
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12-14-2013, 09:28 PM | #39 | |
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The whole reason of the -3 to +3 setting is to fine tune the DTUK. Why are you so against the DTUK? Pretty much everything you have said about the JBD, also applies to the DTUK. Only difference is that the DTUK controls boost as well. Last edited by mob17; 12-14-2013 at 09:39 PM.. |
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12-15-2013, 04:28 AM | #40 | |
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What can cause limp mode is the "-3 to +3" setting mentioned above, which is used for fine tuning. The maps increase power/torque on their own, and the fine tuning can increase power/torque even further. For example my car can't run map 3 on +3 (which is normal according to Andrew), but it can run map 3 on +2 without any issues (which is supposedly a 20% increase over what map 3 already gives you if I understood correctly). I've even accelerated without waiting for the engine to warm up (emergency situation), and no limp mode whatsoever. Also, in case you do get limp mode, all you have to do is get out at the next exit, turn off the engine for a couple of minutes, and it's gone. Done this multiple times while testing the settings, and you don't even need to clear the error log (even though I eventually do after I'm done). What the different maps allow you to do is get a different behaviour out of your car, which is definitely a plus compared to the JBD. Is it worth the price tag difference? IMO no, but that's because what I'm looking for is mainly performance, and right now I don't care if it's smoother or not. Would be nice if Ron1n could chime in since I've read he used both boxes and might have some actual performance comparison. |
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12-16-2013, 05:20 AM | #41 |
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Ron1n is MIA as far as I am concerned, my comparatives to OEM and RENNtech were as follows 230 whp OEM versus RENNtech Flash 300 whp, then we went more aggresive throughout the band and we clocked 306 whp, I then added the WAGNER IC mind you these runs were on different days and DIFFERENT weather at around same time. We had clocked 306 whp at 7pm weather was 70 degrees Fahrenheit then 3 days later with WAGNER IC we clocked 312 whp at around same time as previous days BUT the temp was 90 degrees Fahrenheit. These are my comparos amigos
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12-17-2013, 05:37 PM | #42 | ||
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All you have to do is pull over and shut off your car and turn it back on? Thanks anyway. I'm driving a 55k car, so I guess we have different response to the limp mode issue. I owned two 335's before the diesel and encountered limp mode issues and cleared codes, been there done that, but I'm done with chasing that extra 10hp. I like the once and done power boost and single plug install/removal. |
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12-17-2013, 07:56 PM | #43 |
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Hello folks. I just turned in the 2011 335d for a 2013 335i. Prior to that I had a 2007 335i. I used a DTUK red box on my 335d and had a great time with it. It works as advertised, with it in place I was back in the ~5.3 second 0-60 range and the stock 335i's (we have 4 at work) could not pass me at highway speeds. My only regret was not biting the bullet and investing in the Renntech tune. It seems to be the most refined, but it is also expensive. I can't comment much on the JB Diesel, but I will say they have a lot of fans.
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12-17-2013, 11:05 PM | #44 | |
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So i think when a code comes up, you just need to lower the revs and if will go away after a bit To be honest, the boost connector is a bit of a pain, but not so much so that i'd not purchase this again. Still can't decide between this and a remap |
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