[MoneyFor]

Originally Posted by JoeyBananaz18

My car was built in June of 2009 and did not come with the pre wiring for an alarm. Does anyone know if there is a part number for the wiring harness or if i can have a shop wire it up?

I have the same problem here, no prewiring at all. Did you get the info allready ? My dealer cant help me out so any info is welcome since I have the complete alarmsystem mirror included exept the wiring

best regards

[JoeyBananaz18]

Originally Posted by MoneyFor

I have the same problem here, no prewiring at all. Did you get the info allready ? My dealer cant help me out so any info is welcome since I have the complete alarmsystem mirror included exept the wiring

best regards

sorry dude. No dice. I really want to get one. The car is always garaged but i want that peice of mind.

[fdawg4l]

Did the install and it went off without a hitch except for a few minor things. My feb 08 E90 had the hood switch cable out and affixed to the side of the tray. I didnt need to remove the break pump cover. Also, the "left rear wheel" is the driver side wheel (in left hand drive, e.g. N American, cars). Getting the wheel off was the hardest part, but a 25 dollar breaker bar fixed that without breaking a sweat. Now it lives in my trunk should I ever need it. Clown nose was blinking as soon as I plugged the battery in and the siren went off when I waived my arm through an open window. Success!

[MoneyFor]

Hi all,

I've found all the ( Euro ) part numbers for the oem alarm:

61 12 0 401 232 this is for the alarmcable.

I have all the other part numbers, if interested PM me.

Best regards

[runk]

I just retrofit my alarm and tested it by reaching into an open window and the alarm went off. Clown nose works...I had assumed that BMW's stealership programming does something beyond just setting up the arming/disarming chirp; but maybe not?

Please let me know!

Thanks!

[oshusttoley]

Originally Posted by MoneyFor

Hi all,

I've found all the ( Euro ) part numbers for the oem alarm:

61 12 0 401 232 this is for the alarmcable.

I have all the other part numbers, if interested PM me.

Best regards

will it work with our cars? is the alarm the same? if its cheaper and the same thing, i would like the part numbers for the whole kit!

[TwinTuning]

Great writeup.

[shakatak]

Great write up, simple install on my 02/09 E93.
Well worth doing and worth the extra time reading this thread.
Bought at Morristown BMW off ebay for $141, coded by a friend for $40.

[AnthemX]

Where is the best place to buy the kit. Nothing on eBay at the present time.

[BOBKUR]

Originally Posted by AnthemX

Where is the best place to buy the kit. Nothing on eBay at the present time.

The Dealer.

[carlos916]

Originally Posted by AnthemX

Where is the best place to buy the kit. Nothing on eBay at the present time.

cheapest one so far! shipping is 12 from fed ex.. just ordered mines today
http://www.circlebmwparts.com/cgi/ac...ords&mh=1&nh=6

[MoneyFor]

Hi all,

I just ordered a new F31/330d , and I removed the complete alarm from my E91/2009 build. Its for sale on the Belgium Bimmerboard and i'm asking 150€ for the alarm, sealing light with sensor build in and the wiring. The mirror I can not sell unless there is a exchange with a normal one without a "clownnose" since I sold mine.

rgds Kris

[MoneyFor]

Originally Posted by oshusttoley

will it work with our cars? is the alarm the same? if its cheaper and the same thing, i would like the part numbers for the whole kit!

Yes kabel is the same

[hugo330i]

Originally Posted by carlos916

cheapest one so far! shipping is 12 from fed ex.. just ordered mines today
http://www.circlebmwparts.com/cgi/ac...ords&mh=1&nh=6

+1

Spent the entire afternoon looking for best prices and you are right. Circle BMW has the better price. $ 243.49 + $13 Shipping

Ordered mine today, my little project for next week while taking some time off from work.

[Zap]

Recently got mine from Circle BMW, too - it was a quick install. My '07 already had the hood switch connector in place. Just waiting for my cable to arrive so I can code the alarm fully. Without programming, the clown nose blinks when armed, and it will go off if the interior sensor detects movement.

Great DIY!

[2Times]

^^ Just like Zap, exactly the same here on my e92. About to code the other stuff. I was surprised when the clown nose started blinking and the siren went off without programming. I got mine from GetBMWparts.com since they sponsor the forum Ordered Monday, finished installing today

[ladonovan]

I jsut finished installing mine from getbmwparts.com and the install was easy once I figured out how to remove the cap off the harness for the siren. My clown nose blinks but nothing else works without programing.

[SSW]

Many thanks to the OP for this thread!

Didn't realize that my (new to me) used 2008 335i didn't have an alarm installed in it until I read this and other threads about it.

No beep, beep! WTF?!!

Fortunately, my car is pre-wired for the alarm. So, based on info in the thread, I just ordered an alarm system from Circle BMW in NJ for $243 which is $122 less than the OEM $365 price that my local dealer wanted to charge me. I actually saved another $18 because Circle didn't charge me any sales tax and the cost of shipping was just $13 compared w/about $31 in sales taxes that I'd have to pay my dealer.

My local dealer also quoted a price of $766 for the alarm (including tax on parts) installed, which works out to $370 for labor.

The install instructions at the top of this thread were very clear and easy to follow and after checking the hood switch and ultrasound mounting locations and the pics of the siren mounting requirements, so I decided that I could do it myself, but I'll probably still have to pay the dealer $195 to "program" the alarm to make it work properly after I install it (unless I'm one of the lucky ones whose alarm doesn't require additional programming).

So, my net savings on the labor would only be $175 and total cost will probably be $451 (or about a 41% savings over the dealer installed price), which I think is a reasonable, even though I think the alarm should have come installed in the car in the 1st place.

[SSW]

Just received and installed the OEM alarm system in my pre-wired 2008 335i E90.

No instructions came w/the system, so this thread was very useful in getting me pointed in the right direction. Here are comments about my install which vary or add upon those provided by the OP.

1) The hood switch. All I needed to do was screw in the metal bracket holding the switch in place and take the tape off of the connector already wired into position, remove the plastic protective plug covering the connection and plug it into the switch. Easy, peasy!

2) The ultrasonic monitor. No tools are needed. In my E90, it's easy to just grab the light fixture from the front (towards the hood) and pull it down towards the rear. Out it came. The hardest thing to do was to get the plug for the module out of the holder in the light fixture. The fitting was really tight and I had to play with it quite awhile to get the plug out w/o breaking anything. The light fixture needs to be unplugged and removed from the car to facilitate the mounting of the module in it because the plug interferes with the positioning of the module which needs to be placed under the plug. Once the module is snapped in place, the module and fixture plugs are easily attached and the fixture is simply remounted by inserting the front of the fixture in the ceiling opening and just pushing it up to attach.

3) The siren mounting. This is the hardest part of the job. Make sure jack up the car properly and to wear disposable gloves for this because the well wheel is really dirty. I used a floor jack w/a jack pad adapter to lift the car from the side and put a jack stand under the differential housing (without putting any weight on it) as an safeguard.

You'll need some 8 & 10 mm sockets/wrenches for this part of the installation. You don't need a ratchet to remove the wheel well covering. You can loosen and reattach all of the nuts with just a socket handle (the screwdriver type). There are 5 10mm plastic nuts attached to studs protruding through various parts of the covering and 3 8mm machine screws along the lower rear edge of the wheel well. There are also 2 small (they look likes) torx screws holding the covering to forward edge of the wheel well, but it is unnecessary to remove them; you can just gently fold the bulk of the covering forward of the axle to get it out of the way with those 2 torx screws still attached.

After you have done that, you'll see a little pocket (looks different than what's in the OP's pics) at the top of the wheel well in which there's a wrapped connector and 3 studs where the mounting bracket is attached. You simply bolt the metal mounting bracket to the studs w/the supplied nuts; a ratchet is good for this. Then you attach the siren to the plastic mounting plate with a single nut. There are 2 ways to do this; with the connector location to the left or the right. The connector wired in my car ended on the left, so I mounted the siren w/the connector location on the left which followed the flow of the wiring and allowed more slack. The OP mentioned a "grommet" that was supposedly placed into the bracket for support but my set up did not have one.

Then came the most difficult task for me. The plastic mounting plate did not properly line up with the metal mounting bracket and I could only get one of the 2 10mm machine screws to seat in the treads on one side of the metal mounting bracket. A lot of fumbling resulted in one of the metal screws w/washer getting dropped repeatedly and "lost" occasionally in the nooks and crannies of the suspension, which required me to spend an inordinate amount of time looking for it and. After I located it, I would have never recovered it without the use of a telescoping magnet probe. Keep that in mind if you are having trouble getting your siren mounted.

In any event, I finally realized that I could bend the metal mounting bracket so that it would line up better with the plastic mounting plate and, after "eye balling" the position of the mounting holes by adjusting the ends of the bracket, I was able to get the 2nd machine screw into position and finally firmly attach the plastic mounting plate to the metal mounting bracket.

All that remained to be done was to reattach the wheel well covering, which required patience but was easily done by lining up the 5 holes in the covering which matched the 5 small studs in the wheel wheel and then reattaching the plastic 10mm nuts to the studs; just don't forget the 3 8mm machine screws that need to be reattached to the lower rear edge of the wheel well too. Rebolt the wheel to the axle (88 ft lbs torque) and all done!

When I locked the car w/the key fob, the red "clown nose" at the bottom of the mirror flashed rapidly for awhile and then slowed down to a slow continual blink which I assume is what it is supposed to do when the system is "armed." However, I did not get any beeps when I locked/unlocked the car and the siren did not sound when I waved my hand in the car through an open window. So, the next thing I have to do i to take it to the dealer or a qualified indy shop to have the alarm programmed to work properly.

Will let you all know how that goes after it's done.

[SSW]

Took the indy shop that I took the car to 5 hours to program the alarm that I installed but it works now!!!

Here's the story about that: http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=935355

[spencers]

DIY was very helpful! Thanks.

I didn't have to remove the rear wheel to add the siren. Just jacked up the rear end and was able to access all the nuts/screws to remove the liner.

Clown-nose only blinked when I installed the alarm. Added +K302 to the CAS and NFRM, coded the CAS, DWAS, and DWAL with a blank .MAN file and everything works! Woot! Love the chirp when lock/unlock!

[datbimmer]

Thank you for the guide OP, very useful I installed the alarm a week ago using it.