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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > Wash, Wax, Detailing and Cosmetic protection/repairs > Getting ready to do a detail....



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      06-24-2013, 10:23 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by WOT Bimmer View Post
What's wrong with the 303?

I find that the waffle weave puts swirls in as well. That's why I like to use the glass sheeting method and blow drying, but I like the idea of claying while it is still wet.

I will be putting the sf4000 on with the crimson pad most likely.
303 will make your door seals creek and squeak like crazy.
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      06-24-2013, 10:29 PM   #24
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303 will make your door seals creek and squeak like crazy.
Ah, okay. I will probably just apply it to the exterior black trim pieces.
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      06-24-2013, 10:30 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by jbnery6465 View Post
Yes you would buff off the wax before each layer. Depending on the wax, there may be a "cure" time which is very different from the "dry" time. "Dry" time is when the wax comes to a haze and is ready to be buffed off. "Cure" time is the time after buffing that the wax will settle onto the surface to harden and bond properly onto the paint. For optimal results, it's best to let the wax "cure" before adding additional layers. Or does this apply to sealants only? Can anyone confirm?
I can't find a cure time on this dodo purple wax. I assume it is generally longer than the hazing process?
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      06-24-2013, 10:34 PM   #26
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Ah, okay. I will probably just apply it to the exterior black trim pieces.
Gummi Pfledge from 1Z is a much better option for seals.
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      06-24-2013, 10:40 PM   #27
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Where do you guys recommend purchasing LC pads (low profile) other than DI?

And please excuse my ignorance, but what is a DA?
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      06-24-2013, 11:08 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbnery6465 View Post
Yes you would buff off the wax before each layer. Depending on the wax, there may be a "cure" time which is very different from the "dry" time. "Dry" time is when the wax comes to a haze and is ready to be buffed off. "Cure" time is the time after buffing that the wax will settle onto the surface to harden and bond properly onto the paint. For optimal results, it's best to let the wax "cure" before adding additional layers. Or does this apply to sealants only? Can anyone confirm?
+1

I believe it is about 12-24 hours between coats. I don't do much waxing these days but I used to do a ice water wipe down (this helps in setting the wax) and let it cure overnight before laying down the second coat.
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      06-24-2013, 11:12 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by Otruba_843 View Post
Gummi Pfledge from 1Z is a much better option for seals.
Gummi Pfledge is magic. When your doors starts to rattle.....Lay down a healthy coat of this on the rubber seals and Who-la.... Noise gone. It works!!!
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      06-24-2013, 11:16 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by WOT Bimmer View Post
Where do you guys recommend purchasing LC pads (low profile) other than DI?

And please excuse my ignorance, but what is a DA?
DA - Dual Action Polisher.

CarPro USA.
http://www.carpro-us.com/lake-country-hydrotech-pads/

Autogeek
http://www.autogeek.net/hydrotech-lo...ile-3pack.html
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      06-25-2013, 02:30 PM   #31
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Just picked up three of the low profile crimson pads.

What do you guys recommend to clean the pads with? I would have menzerna and dodo wax to clean off.
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      06-25-2013, 06:07 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WOT Bimmer View Post
Just picked up three of the low profile crimson pads.

What do you guys recommend to clean the pads with? I would have menzerna and dodo wax to clean off.
To clean during detailing (moving from one section to the next) - A pad brush and a terry cloth towel. I generally switch out the pad every 2nd or 3rd panel.

To clean after -LC Snappy Clean or Detailer's Polishing Pad Rejuvenator. I generally have a bucket of the (Snappy Clean or DP ) solution sitting on the side when working on a vehicle. As I am done with the pad, I throw the pad in and let it soak overnight. I rinse them out the very next day.
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      06-27-2013, 09:05 AM   #33
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Do you guys think 100g of clay will be enough to do a sedan? I am looking at this small bar wondering if this is going to be enough.... Looks small.
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      06-27-2013, 12:10 PM   #34
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Do you guys think 100g of clay will be enough to do a sedan? I am looking at this small bar wondering if this is going to be enough.... Looks small.
You break off like a 1/4 of it and use it for the whole car. A 100g bar can do 5+ cars. I just throw out the piece I used after 1 car and save the rest of the unused clay bar and keep it in cool place.
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      06-27-2013, 01:32 PM   #35
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You break off like a 1/4 of it and use it for the whole car. A 100g bar can do 5+ cars. I just throw out the piece I used after 1 car and save the rest of the unused clay bar and keep it in cool place.
Oh wow, okay.... I guess I have plenty then. I had read somewhere about cutting it into 15 pieces and using one for each body panel. If I cut the 100g bar into 15 pieces I don't think the pieces would be big enough to hold on to.
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      06-28-2013, 08:32 PM   #36
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Just finished up claying the car for the first time. I was surpirsed that more stuff didn't come off the paint, but I suppose that is a good thing. You can see a picture of the clay I took below. Keep in mind that had been folded over a few times.

Polishing is next the list.

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This stuff smells EDIBLE.

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