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335i limp mode party at the track
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07-10-2012, 01:35 PM | #837 |
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07-10-2012, 01:41 PM | #838 |
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07-10-2012, 01:44 PM | #839 | |
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My thought is that with the single turbo at 15psi, with the low backpressure the engine will actually retain less heat than with the stock turbos at 15psi, despite making considerably more power. I'll report in when I get there. Edit: I do have a procede so I can read/clear/suppress codes. |
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07-10-2012, 02:04 PM | #840 |
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Could very well be the case, there are no error logs anywhere that I can find (despite the obvious engine malfunction display and the immediate power cutoff ) to confirm this but it's an interesting approach, let us know how it goes!
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07-10-2012, 08:45 PM | #841 | |
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07-10-2012, 09:08 PM | #842 | |
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Besides - I just checked on penskeparts and the 1M tstat and water pump are the same part #'s as the E92 335i, and the 335is radiator fan is 850w v. 600w, but the fans aren't going to help when you are out on the track anyway - they're going to help at lower speeds. I don't know what the crossover speed is where the fan helps instead of obstructs flow, but I'm going to imagine it's low. Besides, that fan is $800. Last edited by DallasBoosted; 07-10-2012 at 09:57 PM.. |
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07-10-2012, 10:29 PM | #843 | |
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07-12-2012, 10:52 AM | #844 |
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Quick update on the weird limp mode world that our cars belong to:
Despite pushing the car more than ever this year, including running with the TT crowd and advanced groups in PCA, SCDA, NASA, trackdaze etc, I've had ZERO temp-related limp modes so far. I've only had reproducible traction-related limp modes under specific track conditions. So what changed? - I threw out the DCI, I'm alternating between a stock airbox and the Mr.5 offshoot on all runs. - I'm running 3 bottles of Motul and distilled water in a new (OEM) radiator. The old radiator had accumulated a lot of dirt/sludge on the front side, not sure how/if that affected it's cooling capacity. - Oil temps are consistently up by 20F (to 270F) this year with the STETT stgII kit, I attribute that to more aggressive track driving. - I dropped the 4th gear shift to about 5800rpm, no cooldown laps during a session. So far so good! |
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07-12-2012, 11:28 AM | #845 | |
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07-12-2012, 01:25 PM | #846 |
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Just a tune. I start at 14psi and stay there as long as the weather is <85F. I drop to 13psi for warmer weather and for sessions longer than 20mins.
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07-27-2012, 09:20 AM | #847 |
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Peter- I too have the Stett stg 2, etc. I have zero limp issues as well, but I also run the stock airbox at the track. I really think it makes a difference. Maybe if i had a vented hood the DCI would be good, but I don't need the little power bump. I run the COBB AP on 93 oct aggressive without issue. I do not usually go to redline though.
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07-29-2012, 01:20 AM | #848 | |
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This year I have done 3 events so far. before my last event I added Catless Downpipes, and FMIC. Great improvement in oil temps: http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=721579 However, now I have water temp issues. I know, I know, I should use diluted water, and water wetter. I believe I was the first one on here to do that. After my water pump died, albeit at 84K miles, I've been hesitant to do this, so my water pump doesn't fail again for lack of lubrication. So I might do a new radiator and fan, since I'm at 96K miles. I ended up hosing down my front radiator with a few blasts of water, and that cooled things down tremendously. It all dries in between sessions, so no danger of getting water on the track. Prior to this I was spraying my oil coolers with a water/alcohol mix from a squirt bottle. That helped a ton with oil temps, but when the water temp issues hit, I had to hose her down, which killed all high temps.
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08-25-2012, 01:23 PM | #849 |
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Here are my latest experiences:
Last weekend, I've driven two 335i's on a trackday in hot summer heat (85°F): - my own 6AT car equipped with ER Sports OC, AR Design OC in front of the radiator and PPK radiator. - a friend's 6MT car with upgraded OC. Same tune, similar suspension mods, same day, same track. I managed to overheat my car within two hard laps, water temps going above 240° and power completely cut by the ECU. In the 6MT the car could be pushed no problem for a 30 minutes session. So this made it clear for me that the real culprit is the heat exchanger in the radiator: the 3 lowest rows are used by the transmission oil which exchanges the heat with the engine coolant. This is fine when the engine is cold as it helps to get coolant temps up quicker, but on the track it becomes a handicap where the hot tranny oil simply heats up the coolant even more. What we need is an external tranny cooler to keep both circuits separated.
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08-25-2012, 08:36 PM | #850 | |
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Another thing to keep in mind is that our cars are aging, and gunk (insects, road debris) is getting stuck and baked onto our radiators, creating numerous hot spots. I will soon replace my OEM radiator, with a new one, and this should really help bring down water temps, which are now a problem. Lastly, if you want to do a stand alone trans oil cooler, then go ahead. It's just better to tap into the lines going to and from the heat exchanger, instead of eliminating it entirely. This way, you won't affect transmission warm up time during the winter months. Also, PM AdamWay on this site. He is the only one I know of who has installed a transmission oil cooler to the auto.
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10-23-2012, 07:32 AM | #851 |
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I just went to the track on Saturday for our local BMWCCA chapter's Fall HPDE. We had four 20 minute sessions, and I went into limp in 3 of them. The limps were all registering a 30FC fault code. I don't recall the exact verbiage, but it's something like charge air pressure too low, leak-tightness.
This is the same code I pulled during my last track day, and it only ever happens at the track. I've never seen it during autoX or daily driving. The dealership ran their test plan a while back and told me my diverter valves were leaking. I replaced them a couple weeks ago, but clearly that wasn't the problem. Have any of you guys had this? If so, I'm curious to see how the problem was diagnosed and resolved. I'm also wondering why it didn't happen in one of my sessions, considering I pushed the car very hard.
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10-24-2012, 12:16 PM | #852 |
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From my 5 minutes of internet research 30FC is an "underboost" code, so look for leaks. Another guy had "bad wastegates" (assuming they wouldn't stay closed) and they were replaced which fixed the issue.
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10-24-2012, 05:58 PM | #853 |
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Yeah, I saw those too. I was hoping to get a little more insight from someone who may have actually had the issue and resolved it. Is there a "best" way to diagnose a boost leak? Like I was saying, I can only replicate this at the track, so I'm trying to avoid the 'take it to the shop, they say its fixed, take it to the track, find out its not' game.
Crazy thing is, the dealership quoted me $640 to replace the diverter valves! I would have been very mad if I had paid that only to find out it didn't fix it. While I didn't pay that much, I did spend $100 on parts to do it myself.
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10-26-2012, 12:56 PM | #856 |
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The AT's definitely have more water-temp issues because part of the radiator is lost to the transmission cooler, which heats your water temps further.
Definitely more of a challenge! Look into a standalone tranny cooler in the drivers side fender (where the PPK radiator would go) and maybe look at a MT radiator to reclaim your radiator space. That'd get you at least to where the MT guys are at. Disclaimer: I haven't tried that or seen it done so I don't know. Just a starting point. |
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10-27-2012, 11:09 AM | #857 |
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Seem to be doing just fine here Ran a best of 1:48 that day. E90 M3s were all at 1:55.
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10-28-2012, 09:13 AM | #858 |
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Yep, Ultra forum Racer is simply confused
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