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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
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What's missing for an N54 to hit 10's?!
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05-01-2015, 09:49 AM | #45 |
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We really have nothing more to say about our opinion on this platform when it comes to setting it up for drag racing and putting down numbers that these cars "should" be putting down given current power numbers WHILE still keeping its daily drivability aspects and no major body work in tact.
We truly wish the best of luck to anyone pushing numbers at the drag strip and I know our guys have and will continue to push as well but that's besides the point. Our post was simply a reality check that is all but with enough time and money anything is possible at the end of the day. For the record, we certainly aren't the only ones in the E9x community that have pushed hard to even reach the 10s and its already been done by Vishnu getting a 6MT to a 10.8 sec pass. Anyone thinking this is easy or that people haven't tried very hard already is underestimating and hasn't had enough time or money spent trying If anyone's serious enough about this we forgot to mention, try to book the track a couple weekends with a local club or shop that's out there. You will never get this done on your Wednesday or Friday test and tune night. Too many cars, lineups too long and you have no time or enough passes to dial anything in, and time keeps just slipping away and soon enough its 2 years and you haven't gone any quicker down that 1/4.
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Sales Support Email: sales@protuningfreaks.com | Tech Support Email: support@protuningfreaks.com Last edited by proTUNING Freaks; 05-01-2015 at 09:55 AM.. |
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05-01-2015, 12:13 PM | #46 | ||
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What's a good pressure to run at safely? I would think lower pressure would give more grip but also you don't want to low to hurt stability at speed or the integrity of the tire. 12 psi? 15psi? Finally if the answer about patch is smaller wheel what can we run on the rear with stock brakes? 17"? 16"? Thx.
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05-02-2015, 02:56 AM | #47 |
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6AT cars need a tranny to hold the power and a torque converter with a stall that can build boost on the line foot braking. That's 90% of the equation.... Obviously tires, for traction to harness the power. Shocks and bushings are helpful but shouldn't be a deal breaker however eliminating any slop from irs pivot points will help with driveline life expectancy.
For manual cars, unless your a seasoned strip warrior, there are a few things that could help you systematically dial you car in. An adjustable clutch release valve for use in first gear only. You will need a good clutch that can handle being slipped. Two step and possibly antilag for single setups. The adjustable clutch release valve allows you to dial in how fast there clutch engages. With this you can help save your driveline and use the clutch in a similar fashion to a torque converter. Helps add load while keeping rpm up to build boost initially in the launch and keeps the tires from shaking off the line. Nlts box is also nice to keep boost up during shifts. I only like nlts boxes setup with an adjustable rev limiter, not a total ignition kill type. Wotbox can be setup both ways but you must express this to the sales rep when ordering. If you get two of them one can be used as a two step also. I shaved almost a full second off with the clutch valve, two step and nlts box, dropped 60' from 2.007 to 1.597 on a lazy spooling 5k rpm DSM several years ago. Video below, list 4th great on that run.. And that was pre paint. But the principle of launching a small displacement turbo car is platform blind, you need to leave with power, keep traction and get through the gears in its power curve without losing boost. Seat time is key and logging your efforts is very helpful to find what helps and what doesn't. https://youtu.be/86xiEMzf7Ts https://youtu.be/J0EiP1Wv3sg |
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