[GeorgiaTech335coupe]

Originally Posted by JamesM3M5

I just checked mine via Autologic, and sure enough, 3 of the injectors had slightly different numbers in the second group - off by 0.02. I changed them anyway, and 2 of the 3 took. The third one moved by 0.01 instead of 0.02.

Interesting that all of mine are rated MUCH lower than Vas' - 1.6x-1.7x versus 2.2x.

Also, can you report back if the changing of the values makes any noticeable difference. Perhaps if the number is close enough, it won't make a difference making the coding of an injector with a number close to the previous one a moot point.

[jpirelli]

Originally Posted by cn555ic

Not to code injectors smarty pants!! Lol. This is something new and if your were fully modded you would understand why we are so interested in this. Who cares about gong/chime delete or corner deletes etc:rolleyes :

Sorry to break it to you but this is not something new lol... maybe to you? INPA has existed for a long time. I coded my injectors a year ago. Perhaps ignorance is not always bliss.

Anyway, it's normal for the programmed values to change slightly. The ECU adjusts for flow variation due to degradation of the piezo crystals.

[cn555ic]

These dealers techs are a bunch of idiots and most if not all have no idea what they are doing. I try at all cost not to go there.

[bv1]

Originally Posted by GeorgiaTech335coupe

Also, can you report back if the changing of the values makes any noticeable difference. Perhaps if the number is close enough, it won't make a difference making the coding of an injector with a number close to the previous one a moot point.

I programmed mine using GT1 this summer directly after you hit save the last digit value changes slightly. I'm not sure why this happens but in the menu on the diagnostic screen in GT1 it tells you it is normal.

[cn555ic]

Originally Posted by jpirelli

Sorry to break it to you but this is not something new lol... maybe to you? INPA has existed for a long time. I coded my injectors a year ago. Perhaps ignorance is not always bliss.

Anyway, it's normal for the programmed values to change slightly. The ECU adjusts for flow variation due to degradation of the piezo crystals.

Well I guess I am the ignorant one then! Haha.. Its also pretty messed up that you didnt spread the wealth to the community like Vasillov did, but based upon your post you were probably making money off of coding!

There are many basement dwellers here my friend, that still use this forum to learn and understand their cars. This forum has become infested with ego tripping little kids..Sad I must say.

Ignorance is a BLISS! WOW thats has to be so "clique"

[bv1]

Attached is DIY I prepared for another forum member this summer. I prepared the screen prints while not connected to the car so there are a few errors but you get the point.

GT1 or DISv57 is the old dealer diagnostic software that has been replaced with ISTA. I like GT1 better than INPA because it is a bit more user friendly and gives you an explanation of what it's doing.

It is equally annoying to set-up on your laptop.

Purchased from ebay for $30 bucks or so.

[elim11]

Anyone have a DIY for injectors? I searched the DIY section and came up with nothing.

[marconi118]

Originally Posted by bv1

Attached is DIY I prepared for another forum member this summer. I prepared the screen prints while not connected to the car so there are a few errors but you get the point.

GT1 or DISv57 is the old dealer diagnostic software that has been replaced with ISTA. I like GT1 better than INPA because it is a bit more user friendly and gives you an explanation of what it's doing.

It is equally annoying to set-up on your laptop.

Purchased from ebay for $30 bucks or so.

Please make an ISO file of the GT1 and put it on the net this would be a great contribution for the E90 community

[Tzu]

Originally Posted by jpirelli

Sorry to break it to you but this is not something new lol... maybe to you? INPA has existed for a long time. I coded my injectors a year ago. Perhaps ignorance is not always bliss.

Anyway, it's normal for the programmed values to change slightly. The ECU adjusts for flow variation due to degradation of the piezo crystals.

You're right, I saw it in the coding section a while ago. But like others have said, that section is intimidating to guys who are new to coding. Vas' video DIY is easy, and straight forward. Point me to one video DIY, or just a DIY containing screenshots in that section and I'll eat my hat.

[Dracon]

Originally Posted by marconi118

Please make an ISO file of the GT1 and put it on the net this would be a great contribution for the E90 community

Google search for EasyDIS and you'll find everything you need.

[cn555ic]

Originally Posted by Tzu

You're right, I saw it in the coding section a while ago. But like others have said, that section is intimidating to guys who are new to coding. Vas' video DIY is easy, and straight forward. Point me to one video DIY, or just a DIY containing screenshots in that section and I'll eat my hat.

Won't happen because there is non.

[Zasquatch]

Originally Posted by Dracon

Google search for EasyDIS and you'll find everything you need.

Not exactly.... Finding a SAFE, active download link is like finding a needle in a haystack....

I've got INPA (in german) and NCSExpert working great, but am still struggling with DIS, SSS, and Progman.

[bv1]

http://thepiratebay.org/torrent/6156979

Many are on the net already.

Originally Posted by marconi118

Please make an ISO file of the GT1 and put it on the net this would be a great contribution for the E90 community

[GeorgiaTech335coupe]

Originally Posted by elim11

Anyone have a DIY for injectors? I searched the DIY section and came up with nothing.

In a nutshell:

1. pop open hood and lift it up.
2. Remove 2 black plastic covers on each side of engine, remove ac filter (6 8mm screws), remove cowl (2 8mm screws, remove battery lines hold from snaps)
3. Remove engine cover (4 bolts (cant remember what they are called) 5mm?)
4. Pull connection from coil and remove coil from area you are working in (makes it easier, pull coil off by dynamically pulling up, jerking motion-im sure you know how to do that)
5. Using wrench loosen nut on metal fuel line that goes from fuel rail to injector (just enough to let pressure subside)
6. Loosen both nuts on said metal fuel line and remove
7. Cover both openings with a rag (unless you want to get sprayed with fuel in your eye later on in the process)
8. Remove bolt with ratchet and extender from bracket deep down by the base of the injectors. There are 2 brackets, each holds down 3 injectors, 1 bolt per bracket.
9. Remove ecu connection from injector
10. Remove injector carefully (sometimes there is a little metal tab that breaks off when the injectors are installed, you can see them sitting by the injector, use a magnet to get them out).


This is how to replace an injector in a nutshell. I may have forgotten some steps, but that should be the jist of it. It is quite easy.

[Rotorocious]

Originally Posted by GeorgiaTech335coupe

In a nutshell:

1. pop open hood and lift it up.
2. Remove 2 black plastic covers on each side of engine, remove ac filter (6 8mm screws), remove cowl (2 8mm screws, remove battery lines hold from snaps)
3. Remove engine cover (4 bolts (cant remember what they are called) 5mm?)
4. Pull connection from coil and remove coil from area you are working in (makes it easier, pull coil off by dynamically pulling up, jerking motion-im sure you know how to do that)
5. Using wrench loosen nut on metal fuel line that goes from fuel rail to injector (just enough to let pressure subside)
6. Loosen both nuts on said metal fuel line and remove
7. Cover both openings with a rag (unless you want to get sprayed with fuel in your eye later on in the process)
8. Remove bolt with ratchet and extender from bracket deep down by the base of the injectors. There are 2 brackets, each holds down 3 injectors, 1 bolt per bracket.
9. Remove ecu connection from injector
10. Remove injector carefully (sometimes there is a little metal tab that breaks off when the injectors are installed, you can see them sitting by the injector, use a magnet to get them out).


This is how to replace an injector in a nutshell. I may have forgotten some steps, but that should be the jist of it. It is quite easy.

Pop the hood and Let car sit and go to sleep for about 25 minutes first.
If you open the door or something it will prime the fuel system and create more pressure. I let mine just sit overnight and I had very little pressure when removing the fuel line.

[Tzu]

Those holes on the coils are ment for a wrench. Slide wrench in, pull straight up, easy peezy.

[SlowerThanU]

Question for the experts...I have a 2007 E92 with 2006-09 production date. I see that the DCAN started on 2007-03 and forward production dates. Does that mean that my car can use the K-line cables?

[enrita]

Originally Posted by SlowerThanU

Question for the experts...I have a 2007 E92 with 2006-09 production date. I see that the DCAN started on 2007-03 and forward production dates. Does that mean that my car can use the K-line cables?

My car is a March 2007 and i bought this cable now http://www.ebay.com/itm/270790477746...S:1123&vxp=mtr
I know for sure is pre DCAN so hopefully it will work.

[SlowerThanU]

Originally Posted by enrita

My car is a March 2007 and i bought this cable now http://www.ebay.com/itm/270790477746...S:1123&vxp=mtr
I know for sure is pre DCAN so hopefully it will work.

Cool. I just checked my port and I think it is indeed K-Line. I have Pin 7 and don't have pins 6 or 14.

[jpirelli]

Originally Posted by Tzu

You're right, I saw it in the coding section a while ago. But like others have said, that section is intimidating to guys who are new to coding. Vas' video DIY is easy, and straight forward. Point me to one video DIY, or just a DIY containing screenshots in that section and I'll eat my hat.

Originally Posted by cn555ic

Won't happen because there is non.

There is on the other forum that's dedicated to coding.

And FYI cn555ic, I am not making money off coding. I have only coded my own car with the help of NiVeDh.

[JamesM3M5]

Originally Posted by GeorgiaTech335coupe

Also, can you report back if the changing of the values makes any noticeable difference. Perhaps if the number is close enough, it won't make a difference making the coding of an injector with a number close to the previous one a moot point.

Seems to me that the numbers were so close that my changes did nothing for the performance or the smoothness. My car 'bumps' at very low load, 1600-2000RPM cruising (45-55MPH), feels like you're hitting small bumps in the road, but it's definitely something to do with misfires or something of that nature.

Maybe one day I'll just replace all damn 6 to see what happens. Good info you posted on the decoupling elements, etc. I will make sure I have the proper tools to do the job. Looks like it takes a set of special tools to install new seals on old injectors, but the new injectors should come with teflon seals, just not decoupling elements.

[vasillalov]

Originally Posted by JamesM3M5

Looks like it takes a set of special tools to install new seals on old injectors, but the new injectors should come with teflon seals, just not decoupling elements.

Umm, I am not so sure about that... The injector I received from Tischer did not have any seals on it at all. I ordered the decoupling element and it clicked right onto the new injector. It fit snugly and securely. The decoupling element was all metal with 3 securing clips located at 120 degrees from each other.

Are you saying that the new injectors should NOT be installed in conjunction with decoupling elements?