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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > Mechanical Maintenance: Break-in / Oil & Fluids / Servicing / Warranty > Cooling system Problem



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      05-14-2015, 04:01 PM   #1
mazez
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Cooling system Problem

I just replaced my lower coolant hose and the radiator fan sensor, and have been flushing the coolant system down with a garden hose due to oil and gasket particles being in the system. My car is NOT overheating but the heat is not working, it blows cool, is this due to a thermostat problem? Could there not be heat because its hot outside and it has something to do with the climatecontrol?

Last edited by mazez; 05-14-2015 at 04:18 PM.
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      05-15-2015, 05:27 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mazez
I just replaced my lower coolant hose and the radiator fan sensor, and have been flushing the coolant system down with a garden hose due to oil and gasket particles being in the system. My car is NOT overheating but the heat is not working, it blows cool, is this due to a thermostat problem? Could there not be heat because its hot outside and it has something to do with the climatecontrol?
Sounds like your thermostat has failed as well here.

If you suspect broken hose particles have gotten into the system you should do a full system flush to make sure you get most of the debris/ oil out.
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      05-17-2015, 10:59 PM   #3
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I replaced the thermostat but still no heat
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      05-17-2015, 11:00 PM   #4
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I think the heater core might have gotten clogged
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      05-18-2015, 11:41 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mazez View Post
I just replaced my lower coolant hose and the radiator fan sensor, and have been flushing the coolant system down with a garden hose due to oil and gasket particles being in the system. My car is NOT overheating but the heat is not working, it blows cool, is this due to a thermostat problem? Could there not be heat because its hot outside and it has something to do with the climatecontrol?
1. Are you filling the system completely, including doing the coolant system bleed procedure?

2. Do you have the center vent thumb wheel set to the hot air (right) side completely?
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      05-18-2015, 02:28 PM   #6
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Yes and yes! I've bled the system so many times I can do it in my sleep
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      05-22-2015, 03:15 PM   #7
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Any help would be appreciated!
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      05-24-2015, 03:59 PM   #8
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Well I can only just guess but some other possibilities:

If the car was filled with a non-low-silicate antifreeze that could cause issues.

If it got filled with the mix using non-distilled water there could be some serious mineral deposits. I don't know the history of my car apart from where it was serviced before I bought it, and it was all dealership and one Indy that is BMW specialist. I did a partial drain and was getting mad pebbles coming out.

Supposedly the pump can sense both blockages and improper ratio of water to coolant which I would assume means it won't operate if one of those is detected. Have you pulled the codes? That would be my next step. A proper pressure test of the coolant system would be up there as well. You may be able to get tool capable of the pressure test on loan from the auto parts store.
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      05-26-2015, 04:27 PM   #9
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Ive been running only distilled water because the system still has particles of gasket in it.
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      05-26-2015, 09:24 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mazez View Post
Ive been running only distilled water because the system still has particles of gasket in it.
I know you bled the system but wouldn't hurt to do it again with the heat turned on and the front of the car slighly raised so the bleeder wil be higher than the heater core and the engine's head. Has worked for me in the past with air locks.
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      05-27-2015, 04:04 PM   #11
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Ok so the heater core was actually clogged. The plastic piece floaty that shows you the coolant level snapped off and fell into the cooling system. I turned the heat on full blast and flushed it several times. When I disconnected the thermostat from the water pump the plastic piece along with gasket particles came out. Problem solved after a month of flushing the coolant!
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      06-09-2015, 04:07 PM   #12
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water pump and thermostat change

After I've completed the replacement of the water pump and thermostat, do I need to clear any codes? Do I need to run the water pump once I've got it all back together before running the engine? Something about putting it in start but not starting the engine then pushing down on the gas pedal 10 times? Any of this sound right?

Mike
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      06-09-2015, 04:15 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by czar35 View Post
After I've completed the replacement of the water pump and thermostat, do I need to clear any codes? Do I need to run the water pump once I've got it all back together before running the engine? Something about putting it in start but not starting the engine then pushing down on the gas pedal 10 times? Any of this sound right?

Mike
Open bleed screw on expansion tank and fill tank until coolant starts to trickle out bleed screw. Tighten screw and close cap on expansion tank. Turn on accessory power (push Start without depressing brake pedal). Turn climate control to hottest setting (84 deg in my car on both sides), with blower on lowest setting. Depress accelerator for 10 seconds. You should hear the pump begin to cycle. I believe it takes 12 minutes. After its complete, open expansion tank cap and top off so the float gives a max reading. The Bentley manual says go (100ml I think) over the max fill mark, I don't have graduated cylinders laying around my garage so max was fine. With a full drain/fill of the system I would hook a battery charger to the car and run this procedure 2-3 times. If the coolant level is the same before and after doing this, you've probably gotten all the air out.
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      06-09-2015, 04:44 PM   #14
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Great, thanks for the clarification. I thought it was to depress the pedal 10 times. In any event, I appreciate the tip. Do you know about any codes I have to clear?
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      06-10-2015, 11:56 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by czar35 View Post
Great, thanks for the clarification. I thought it was to depress the pedal 10 times. In any event, I appreciate the tip. Do you know about any codes I have to clear?
The only time I've gotten a shadow code doing the bleeding procedure was when I didn't hook the battery charger up, it threw something like "coolant pump low speed error" or something. No check engine/ses lights and have never seen it again since using a charger before/during the procedure. You need some way to scan for both obd2 and bmw spec. codes to be sure you don't have any codes associated with the cooling system though. I usually scan for codes before I start any work then clear DME adaptations and scan for codes as my last step before starting the engine after completing any repair/maintenance.
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      06-10-2015, 10:48 PM   #16
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Wish I had an OBD code connection to be able to scan for codes. After I completed the job, which only took me 5 hours ... nice! I took down the subframe and it gave me a bunch more room.

After the job though, the A/C didn't seem to get very cool. Anyway ... I'll take it to the dealer or a Bimmer shop and have them check the codes to make sure. Thanks for all the help!
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      06-11-2015, 04:54 AM   #17
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buy this , it'll make life a little easier
http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-INPA-Edi.../361303141322?
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      06-11-2015, 06:53 AM   #18
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If the pump failed there'd be one or two codes to clear, but they are BMW codes that you can't clear without a BMNW scan tool, OBDII doesn't clear them. However, I would think even if the codes were present the new pump would work without any issue.
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