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DIY: Alarm Motion Sensor In Convertible
Published by 2007_E93
02-22-2008
DIY: Alarm Motion Sensor In Convertible

UPDATED AT THE END!!!!

FINALLY,..It took me some time but I figured out how to wire a motion sensor into the OEM Alarm on the Convertible. Works well but I do need some tweaking,..so any input is appreciated. As you may know the US dealer installed alarm does NOT come with motion sensor despite what the owners manual says. I wanted to be able to leave my car window or top down and still have alarm set (although I rarely do leave car with top down). Its a bit long but I will post pictures soon. For now here is the DIY

Plan: place DEI 508D sensor near center of car and wire the BLUE trigger wire to the hood sensor. Use the BLACK ground wire to appropriate ground on the car (I used engine bay screw). Terminate the early warning (1st stage) GREEN trigger wire. Run the RED power wire to always on source fuse tap at fuse box.

Disclaimer: I am NO electrician or mechanic. I assume NO liability from you trying to do this and messing up your car in any way! Use this information at your own risk.

Here's How I did it:

Car: 2007 335 E93 Convertible with Step tranny NO I-drive.
Cost~$54
Difficulty (0-10) = 3
Time ~2 hrs.

Need:
1. You will need a motion sensor with a trigger. I bought the DEI 508D RF field Motion Sensor (Amazon.com~$35).
2. Wire 18g Black (~20ft) = $5 (Optional Blue wire as well)
3. 3M Butt/Splice connectors (~$3), Quick Connects ($3), Spade connector (~$2)
4. Add-a-Circuit from Autozone (~$4)
5. Wire stripper/cutter, Crimping tool, Flathead Screwdriver, Ratchet set, Hex key

STEPS:
1. Unlock all doors, Glove compartment, Hood, roll down windows and leave trunk open for ease. Disconnect Negative terminal of battery (Need 10mm socket) in Right side of trunk under 2 panels (1 gray and 1 black).

2. Use fishing line or extra wire, tie a handle to the ends of the DEI 508D so you can retrieve it later if you need to service the sensor. Open the boot over the emergency brake using a flathead screwdriver and pulling,... it will pop off easily.

3. Pull straight up on shift knob (HARD) and pull up on back right corner of shift boot cover to pop them off as well. Open center console armrest top door and pull hard on rear part of center console trim to pop out. Make sure to keep the foam pads that go with the clips underneath.

4. There are 4 clips/plugs you need to unhook. Starting from rear going forward they are (in order) a black one that disconnects by pulling to driver side, blue one on the driver side that disconnects by pulling straight down, white one on the passenger side that disconnects to the front of the car, and 3 prong white plug under ashtray that disconnects by squeezing sides together and pulling backward. Now center console trim is free to set aside. Notice a hole in the rear of where the center console trim was (under the convertible top switch). This looks into the emergency brake area.

5. Place the sensor in the hole between the E-brake and center console and fish wire through the hole to center console area underneath where trim will go back. (see pics when I post them soon). Cut the terminal plug on the end of the wire furthest from the sensor. Run wires toward the front and along path of other wires in the center console area. Make sure the wires do not get caught on shifter mechanism. Run wires under horizontal plastic piece at the very front of the center console area. Pull ONLY the red wire away from the green, blue, and black wires.

6. Unscrew the 2 Hex screws holding underside of glovebox in place and the 3 hex screws on the underside of the driver side dash panel. You will need a 7/64 Hex Screw Key.

7. The green wire is an early Warning sensor trigger that goes off if you have the ability to give a warning chirp or voice command like "stay away" on your alarm. We don't have this feature on our BMW OEM car alarm and it was too much of a pain in the ass to wire for that so I didn't use the green wire. At this point I terminated the Green wire from the sensor and wrapped with Electrical tape. You can either run the ground (black) wire to the engine bay and ground there or run it to the fusebox and use a screw there. I chose to run the ground to the engine bay.

8. The blue wire and black wire are now running together and will go to the engine bay. The Blue wire is a second stage trigger if an object moves within the cabin of the vehicle. (Green was first stage for outside the car). We will eventually hook up the Blue wire to the hood sensor switch.

9. Tuck the Black/Blue wires in the side of center dash trim and run toward driver side under dash. Now use the 18guage wire (any gauge wire between 18-22 is fine) and cut 2 strips about 10 feet long each. Since at this point I decided to use both black wires I needed a way to discern ground from trigger as I fished the wire through the firewall. I chose to strip both ends of one wire and leave the other wire unstripped. (It would be easier to use 2 different color wires but I didn't feel like buying more wire.) My Stripped wire was to become my Trigger and the unstripped one was to be the Ground wire.

10. After removing the under dash cover in the top left corner (over the left foot rest) you will see a circle about 3 inches wide with 3 bundles of wires going through the firewall and into the engine bay. The top right portion of the circle (about 1 o'clock position) there is a hole that is plugged up but with no wires running through it. Go to the engine bay and remove the front and back clips on the black cover in front of the windshield (rearmost portion of engine bay). This covers the ABS system and has a rubber clasp you will need to move backwards to fully remove the cover. (this is same cover that you may remove with Procede install)

11. Using flash light you will see a small rubber finger like projection through the firewall at the same level as the hole I described in the above step. You can either cut this off (my scissors wouldn't reach) or do what I did. I braided the black wires together and taped the ends together for the end going through the firewall. Then I used a long flathead screwdriver to poke my way through the hole from the drivers side under the dash (pedal) area. Pass this repeatedly until the hole is big enough or push the 2 black wires through the hole with the tip of the screwdriver. Retrieve them on the other side - Pliers help do this.

12. Now you have your wires and you will run one to the ground. I chose a ground just above a common ground site on the left wheel well. You will see a screw sticking out of the wheel well toward the engine bay. There is nothing on this screw. Another ground site is just underneath this screw and that one has many ground wires going to it. I chose the top one and stripped the wire and crimped a spade connector to the ground (remember it was unstripped going through the firewall) Use a 7/16 nut and socket to connect the spade ground to the screw. I ran my ground under the trim along with the other wires in this area so it wouldn't get pinched with closing the hood.

13. Now snake the already stripped Trigger wire to the hood sensor located at the rear of the engine bay immediately in front of the black cover you took off. It has a black fingerlike pressure switch pointing straight up with 2 wires connected to it. Squeeze the top of the clip and disconnect it from the hood sensor. Now strip back some of the electrical tape to expose about 2 inches of the 2 wires. There is a PURPLE wire with a GREEN stripe. This is the trigger for the hood switch (I assume the brown is a ground for the hood switch). Now use the 3M quick Connects to connect the trigger wire from the firewall to tap into the purple/green wire on the hood switch. Read instructions on the package if you dont know how to do this.

14. Now use butt connectors and strip the blue sensor wire, black sensor wire, and black firewall ground wire. The butt connectors are doubly crimped and the blue goes to the trigger wire and the black goes to the ground. You may have a foot or so of extra sensor wires. I just cut the extra off.

15. Now run the red power wire from the sensor to the fuse box and strip the wire. Cut any excess wire.

16. Use the Add-a-Circuit to tap into the #19 fuse (7.5A fuse). The positive end of the fuse slot is the left side slot. So, make sure to place the Add-a-Circuit power on the right side of the fuse so that is it protected. Crimp the Red wire to the Add-a-Circuit.

17. Set the sensor to just under maximum sensitivity by adjusting both knobs on the sensor. I taped the retrieval wire from the sensor ends to the E-brake handle in case I need to adjust the position or sensitivity of the sensor.

18. Tidy up with electrical tape everywhere. Replace all covers and screws. Reconnect battery and you now have motion sensor on your convertible!

UPDATE:

The wiring above will make sensor work as planned but "hood open" warning may go off at times because there is power to sensor at all times. You need a 12V SPDT relay and another Add-a-Circuit from Autozone and some insulated female wire terminals.

See FINAL wiring diagram below in .pdf file attached.

Essentially, there is a COIL that is energized and creating a magnetic field to "flip a switch" within the relay. There are 5 prongs. They are numbered 85 & 86 = COIL TERMINALS, and 30 = COMMON or SWITCHED POWER, and 87A = NORMALLY CLOSED circuit with TERMINAL 30, and the last one is 87 = NORMALLY OPEN circuit with TERMINAL 30


86 terminal goes to add-a-circuit power (on with ign only) fuse 75. I grounded the 85 wire with a LARGE spade or ring terminal to the silver Torx screw that is clearly visible on the left hand side of the glove box/ fuse box area. (see pic of finished product). I just velcroed the relay to the plastic housing on the left side of the fuse box area for easy removal if needed. The 87 terminal is terminated with electrical tape (goes to nothing). The 30 goes to the add-a-circuit power (always on) from fuse 19. The 87A completes the circuit to the RED power wire on the motion sensor.

Lastly, I opted to place a diode (Radio shack = 1N4003 Diode) in line with the Blue trigger wire to the hood pin switch. I did this to ISOLATE the possibility of 12v power coming from the hood pin switch back to the motion sensor and powering it that way. This is probably overkill but for 99 cents its worth it to me. The stripe on the diode is placed TOWARD the motion sensor side.
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File Type: pdf Relay & 508D.pdf (38.3 KB, 421 views)
  #1  
By checuervo on 02-22-2008, 04:06 AM
Wow.
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  #2  
By 2007_E93 on 02-22-2008, 09:16 AM
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Fuse #19 = ALARM FUSE

Confirmed that fuse #19 is ALWAYS ON this morning and also came to find out is the same fuse as the OEM alarm.

Sensitivity is too high if set to maximum. Now goes off if you stand very close to the door without reaching in. Need to tweak sensitivity a bit and post pics later today. I hope all this helps others interested in this.
Last edited by 2007_E93; 02-24-2008 at 12:38 AM.
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  #3  
By 2007_E93 on 02-22-2008, 08:40 PM
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Pics

Here are the pics.

EDIT: SORRY HAD TO DELETE THESE! PM ME FOR PICS IF NEEDED.

Pics correspond to following Steps:

5 = Pics 1 & 2

6 = Pic 3

10 = Pic 4

11 = Pic 5

12 = Pic 6 & 7

13 = Pic 8
Last edited by 2007_E93; 05-14-2008 at 07:12 PM.
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  #4  
By 2007_E93 on 02-23-2008, 08:05 PM
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Doesn't look like many are interested in this,...

Well updated the DIY for those that are....more accurate now. Works BEAUTIFULLY if sensitivity set to about 85% on both knobs!
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  #5  
By am_ver on 02-24-2008, 01:58 PM
Very nice!! Thank you!!
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  #6  
By ak47firepower on 02-24-2008, 02:33 PM
Great post, this may be a bit too complex for most of us to DIY. I would love to get it done on mine, as this is a major draw back of the OEM alarm. Thanks for taking the time to put it together.
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  #7  
By 2007_E93 on 02-24-2008, 03:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ak47firepower View Post
Great post, this may be a bit too complex for most of us to DIY. I would love to get it done on mine, as this is a major draw back of the OEM alarm. Thanks for taking the time to put it together.
Thats the thing. I KNEW NOTHING about car alarms before I started with this. Never done anything electrical and I havent studied electricity since college almost 20 years ago. This is SO SIMPLE. Only hard part is the routing of wires. I gave details so that you have EVERYTHING you need to know. NO questions if you follow exactly. you have everything you need in this DIY. I'm sure knowing what I know now I could do it in about 1-1.5 hrs.

If you can use pliers, wire stripper and crimping tool you can do this!
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  #8  
By cas on 02-26-2008, 07:50 PM
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ill sum up what the poster is doing from what I know about alarms. he is powering up up the motion sensor with the add a circuit and grounding it wth the other wire that goes to chassis. the last wire (TRIGGER) when the motion sensor detect something will send the wire to ground or hot and trip the alarm. pretty simple and neat. not sure if Im going to do this or not.
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  #9  
By 2007_E93 on 02-27-2008, 04:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cas View Post
ill sum up what the poster is doing from what I know about alarms. he is powering up up the motion sensor with the add a circuit and grounding it wth the other wire that goes to chassis. the last wire (TRIGGER) when the motion sensor detect something will send the wire to ground or hot and trip the alarm. pretty simple and neat. not sure if Im going to do this or not.
CORRECT. Sorry to be long winded,... just making sure its clear what I did.

UPDATE!!: I do have one small issue that I'm currently resolving with my setup. First few days no issues whatsoever. Now, I have my "hood open" warning going off intermittently for about 1-2 sec. It seems to be going off only when the car starts to move from a stand-still and the Motion Sensor triggers a motion. Since it is hooked into the hood alarm sensor I think the car is beling fooled into thinking the hood is open. The alarm MUST have a separate "on/off" switch since I would think the alarm would go off while I'm driving if it didn't. I am currently working on the issue and seeing if I can rewire the sensor closer to the siren and bypass this issue (so the trigger is isolated to the alarm and not the "hood open" sensor as well).

I will update as soon as I get a resolution or have more information.

ANY IDEAS and INPUT IS APPRECIATED.
Last edited by 2007_E93; 03-02-2008 at 12:23 AM.
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  #10  
By BoostedBMW on 02-27-2008, 05:20 PM
Nice DIY write up!

I'm moving this to the DIY forum.
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  #11  
By cas on 02-27-2008, 09:58 PM
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find a switched power source. or wire in a relay that when power is applied to another fuse it throws the relay and kills power to sensor. just talking a guess not sure if it would work. remove power from sensor and see if still throws symbol
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  #12  
By 2007_E93 on 02-27-2008, 10:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cas View Post
find a switched power source. or wire in a relay that when power is applied to another fuse it throws the relay and kills power to sensor. just talking a guess not sure if it would work. remove power from sensor and see if still throws symbol
I have,...it does not throw symbol when there is no power to motion sensor. However, what is a source that has power with the car off and NO power with the car ignition on. The only one I know of is the alarm. Thats fuse 19 (where its hooked up to) and it definitely still has power when ignition is on. Despite that the alarm does not sound while I'm driving and motion is detected. Therefore, it MUST have some sort of relay/switch as you say. WHERE??? I wish I could find it.

I have traced the wires through the firewall and then it becomes spaghetti wrapped in electrical tape under the driver's footwell. I'm trying to aquire a wiring diagram for the car and alarm. I have the one posted in the forum from the .pdf file of the E90 DIY alarm retrofit (page 6 of that file) but it is lacking in important details.
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  #13  
By cas on 02-28-2008, 09:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2007_E93 View Post
I have,...it does not throw symbol when there is no power to motion sensor. However, what is a source that has power with the car off and NO power with the car ignition on. The only one I know of is the alarm. Thats fuse 19 (where its hooked up to) and it definitely still has power when ignition is on. Despite that the alarm does not sound while I'm driving and motion is detected. Therefore, it MUST have some sort of relay/switch as you say. WHERE??? I wish I could find it.

I have traced the wires through the firewall and then it becomes spaghetti wrapped in electrical tape under the driver's footwell. I'm trying to aquire a wiring diagram for the car and alarm. I have the one posted in the forum from the .pdf file of the E90 DIY alarm retrofit (page 6 of that file) but it is lacking in important details.
are you sure of the power with the car on and off? you know there is stanby modes, etc? your saying it doesnt throw the symbol when there is no power to the detector, have you actual driven around and noticed that? the realy/switch I was referring to was wiring in your own not one in the car.
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  #14  
By 2007_E93 on 02-28-2008, 10:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cas View Post
are you sure of the power with the car on and off? you know there is stanby modes, etc? your saying it doesnt throw the symbol when there is no power to the detector, have you actual driven around and noticed that? the realy/switch I was referring to was wiring in your own not one in the car.
Yes I have confirmed the power and hood open warning on and off when there is power to the motion sensor and no power to sensor respectively ( I unplugged the add-a-circuit = no hood open warning). Also, would be willing to wire in my own relay if I kknew how to get the "switch" to change with ignition and wire it correctly.
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  #15  
By cas on 02-28-2008, 11:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2007_E93 View Post
Yes I have confirmed the power and hood open warning on and off when there is power to the motion sensor and no power to sensor respectively ( I unplugged the add-a-circuit = no hood open warning). Also, would be willing to wire in my own relay if I kknew how to get the "switch" to change with ignition and wire it correctly.

i cannot guide you further as I dont have relevant information. someone doing this project is going to have to help
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  #16  
By sterns on 03-01-2008, 10:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2007_E93 View Post
Yes I have confirmed the power and hood open warning on and off when there is power to the motion sensor and no power to sensor respectively ( I unplugged the add-a-circuit = no hood open warning). Also, would be willing to wire in my own relay if I kknew how to get the "switch" to change with ignition and wire it correctly.
Looks like the way to go would be to figure out how to connect the new sensor to the original wiring where the OEM sensors would have been.
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  #17  
By 2007_E93 on 03-02-2008, 12:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sterns View Post
Looks like the way to go would be to figure out how to connect the new sensor to the original wiring where the OEM sensors would have been.
I disagree. As far as I know the OEM microwave door sensor is not prewired in the US cars (thus no wire to tap into). I have recently purchased the Wiriing Diagram System off of e-bay and expect it to be here soon. I will have the ENTIRE cars wiring for both EU and US models as well as location of modules and labeled wires and pins. (at least thats what I think I'm buying,..LOL). Will see if wiring is there or not. This still doesn't solve the problem as the 508D sensor I used is not a microwave sensor. Also, the (EU version) microwave sensors are in each door and are generally blocked by metal and only sense to the bottom of the seat cushion! Kind of pointless dont you think?

Eitherway, I have figured 4 different ways I think I can make this work. Just trying to K.I.S.S. (keep it simple stupid). I think option 1 is best/easiest. I will try it in the next few days and repost here.

1) Insert diodes into systems to isolate the hood pin switch and the motion sensor. Initially I didnt think this was needed. Still not sure this will solve problem but its the easiest to do.

2) Relocate the trigger to the tilt sensor. However, I have found some information supporting that the tilt sensor is now BUILT IN to the Siren housing. This may make it harder to isolate the tilt sensor trigger to tap into without setting off alarm everytime I go up/down a hill or hit a big bump while driving.

3) Relocate the 12V power to the car alarm siren power (to cut power to motion sensor with alarm disarming). However, if its like every other piece I have tested with the volt meter then it too will be always on even with car ignition. Will test with voltmeter soon as well.

4) Attach a relay to the RED power lead to the motion sensor so that it cuts power to the motion sensor with car ignition. I have found at least 3 unused fuse slots that are switched on with ignition. This seems the most complex for me.

Wish someone with more knowledge than me on car alarms would give input. Either way, I will figure this damn thing out for sure!
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  #18  
By 2007_E93 on 03-02-2008, 07:16 PM
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Option #1 (diodes) did not work. I'm gonna keep plugging away.

I just know there is an easy solution to this...
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  #19  
By am_ver on 03-04-2008, 01:52 AM
Would it be easier to take the car to an alarm place? Though, I hope you figure this out soon -- I plan to do this on my car once u have it figured out!!
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  #20  
By 2007_E93 on 03-04-2008, 01:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by am_ver View Post
Would it be easier to take the car to an alarm place? Though, I hope you figure this out soon -- I plan to do this on my car once u have it figured out!!
I will have a solution soon. I'm confident of that. I have the Wiring Diagram of the entire car now and have a few wires to test this weekend. Otherwise I will go the relay route which I'm sure will work. Just trying to do eliminate all possibilities. If you are frustrated,...you can take it to an alarm place... I feel confident I can do this, otherwise I wouldnt. Think about how much effort I have put into doing this already. I did call an alarm place around here and they "didn't want to gut my brand new car....because they didn't know enough about the car's wiring". I'm at the point that I feel I have just about every piece of information I need. I know every hoopk up and location of every wire now and just a matter of using the voltmeter and getting the car tested.

Will update as soon as I get this resolved...as I test options 2-4 above.
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  #21  
By 2007_E93 on 03-05-2008, 12:16 AM
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I THINK ITS SOLVED!!!!....

Will post details tomorrow after work if all goes well to and from work. Went on a short ride and NO CODES OR WARNING LIGHTS!!
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