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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > AUDIO/VIDEO + BLUETOOTH + Electronics/Alarm/Software > Aftermarket AMP with SUB on e91... pics



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      05-06-2006, 12:51 PM   #23
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Thanks for sharing. Added to master DIY list - http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1721
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      05-06-2006, 01:42 PM   #24
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what a nice install!!!!!
great idea and implementation!!!!!

if i ever will go for an extra sub, be sure, i will follow your way...
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      07-18-2006, 11:21 PM   #25
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To all of you who might follow this installation...

Be very careful about where you get your b+ power from. On the e90, if you get the amp's power from the wrong place, you can cause your vehicle to never assume "sleep" mode (when you've locked the car and been away approx 30 mins). If this happens, your battery will die. If this happens enough times, or happens badly enough just once, you will be on the hook for your $180 battery and 1- 1.5 hours labor.

That crazy black box on the top of the battery is the power module, which monitors power consumption throughout the vehicle, and if there's too much amperage in a given circuit when there shouldn't be, it shuts off all power to the vehicle, losing your radio presets and other assorted memory functions...
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      07-19-2006, 08:16 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ScreaminE90
To all of you who might follow this installation...

Be very careful about where you get your b+ power from. On the e90, if you get the amp's power from the wrong place, you can cause your vehicle to never assume "sleep" mode (when you've locked the car and been away approx 30 mins). If this happens, your battery will die. If this happens enough times, or happens badly enough just once, you will be on the hook for your $180 battery and 1- 1.5 hours labor.

That crazy black box on the top of the battery is the power module, which monitors power consumption throughout the vehicle, and if there's too much amperage in a given circuit when there shouldn't be, it shuts off all power to the vehicle, losing your radio presets and other assorted memory functions...
assuming this is absolutely true, where would u suggest to get power for the remote that wouldnt affect the battery saver??
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      07-19-2006, 10:28 PM   #27
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Not sure. I can look into it, but best bet is honestly not to !@#$ with it...
Just my opinion though.

I will try to find the more appropriate place to tap power for aftermarket amps, and get back tomorrow.
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      07-20-2006, 12:46 AM   #28
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connect the power wire to the postive side bolt on the battery..it works fine...no problems in my car..and i know a lot of other memebers have also. nobodys battery has died yet..

Quote:
Originally Posted by ScreaminE90
To all of you who might follow this installation...

Be very careful about where you get your b+ power from. On the e90, if you get the amp's power from the wrong place, you can cause your vehicle to never assume "sleep" mode (when you've locked the car and been away approx 30 mins). If this happens, your battery will die. If this happens enough times, or happens badly enough just once, you will be on the hook for your $180 battery and 1- 1.5 hours labor.

That crazy black box on the top of the battery is the power module, which monitors power consumption throughout the vehicle, and if there's too much amperage in a given circuit when there shouldn't be, it shuts off all power to the vehicle, losing your radio presets and other assorted memory functions...
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      07-20-2006, 12:47 AM   #29
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are asking about the remote wire? or battery (12v) wire? 12V just connect to the battery directly..the bolt for the postive. for the Remote just get a low voltage trigger.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SMOKE EM IF U GOT EM!!
assuming this is absolutely true, where would u suggest to get power for the remote that wouldnt affect the battery saver??
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      07-20-2006, 01:07 AM   #30
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I forget sometimes that at the dealer I basically ONLY see the cars that have problems, not the ones that work right! =)

Every aftermarket install I see AT WORK has problems, but that's not to say EVERY aftermarket install has problems.

Have fun, go nuts.
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      07-20-2006, 01:24 PM   #31
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i understand wat your sayin..the battery has a whole power block on it..and putting the battery wire in the wrong slot.can mess shit up..i spent about 2 days looking at that power block trying to find the right spot...if you dont know what your are doing or not familier..i agree..dont mess with it..but its nice to have a BMW tech on the board once word gets out..you will be gettin a lot of questions
Quote:
Originally Posted by ScreaminE90
I forget sometimes that at the dealer I basically ONLY see the cars that have problems, not the ones that work right! =)

Every aftermarket install I see AT WORK has problems, but that's not to say EVERY aftermarket install has problems.

Have fun, go nuts.
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      07-20-2006, 03:50 PM   #32
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Nice install....I'd do it, if I had a wagon.
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      07-23-2006, 08:53 PM   #33
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Back from vacation

To whom is interested,
I've been running th eabove set-up for about 5 month now and no "problemo"... also for those scared about the black bock.... I found the black box is a connecting box, where you can connect all the wires, as a matter of fact.... where do you think you are getting all the power for the rest of the car?
Anyhow, I am not here to complain, but again for those interested I left my car locked for 11 days when I went on vacation, and when got back not even a minor problem at start. In case you do follow my set-up[ and want to be sure your +12 remote function properly as mine, I do recommend you connect a Multimeter to that and wait 'till the multimeter shows 0... that would indicate the car is not supplying anymore voltage to the remote and your battery won't die; As soon as you open one door the multimeter should show then +12....
Have fun
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      08-05-2006, 11:50 PM   #34
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Battery POsitive terminal connection question

Quote:
Originally Posted by wurz154
Battery connection...
If you look at the picture where the connection start from the battery.. there is a black male connector that can be pulled out... you can then put a female disconnect (don't remember the size, but it is larger than the one used for speakers).
If you don't have the black black male connector with one empty hole... you can order a whole connector with female disconnect from your dealer.. I think they asked me $15, but I elected to go without it.
Max
Dear wurz154,
I still a bit confuse about this matter,
Could you attached a picture,with some marking on it to show,which male connector are you reffering to?
And what do you mean about black male connector with one empty holes?I mean BMW would not just put an extra empty black connector on it right,due to cost saving?
And if you say order a whole connector with female disconect,can you show me the picture and part number of it ?
Thanks
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      08-09-2006, 11:24 PM   #35
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Trying to make it clearer this time...
the new attached picture has some markings....

In Purple you can see the empty hole where I connected the amp +12 cable using a "female disconnect" (similar to the following but bigger about 1/3" http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshow...TOKEN=61299645)

In Yellow you can see the whole black connector I am refering to... that can be unplugged

In Red you can see available "empty slots" where by buying an extra black connector you can have extra two +12 outputs... I don't recall the PN, but if you show what you need the BMW dealer will easily find the part for you 9it will include the "black connector" and two female disconnectors that go inside the slots and fit perfectly. It was about $15 if I don't remember wrong.

If you look inside the empty slots you will see there are male connectors..
If that is still not clear, shoot me an e-mail with a picture of your battery and I'll try to help you out.
Max
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      08-10-2006, 04:33 AM   #36
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Dear Max,
thank you very much for your kind reply and clear detailed information.
You are lucky to have an extra slot ready for use,while most other people who post picture of their connection on this forum (including my car) only have one output connection.and still have 6 empty output out of 7 available.
Do you have some options,so the car came from factory with extra red power cable connected to it?(the one beside your Power Amplifier cable)

I wish you know the part number for the black connector,because realoem website do not have it.
But never mind,I try to look for it.

and if I am not mistaken,I read somewhere that the output coming out from this connector are measured by the car computer,and if it exceed certain amperage,they will shut it down.Is this true?

Your connection is certainly more neat and clean compare to direct connect to the positive "+" bolt right next to the slot,like some people are using for their car.

Thanks again
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      08-11-2006, 01:11 AM   #37
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don't know

Hi there,
I don't know will be the answer for about everything you asked....
1)....... Don't know the part number.... what I did I went to the service dept. and ask the tech guy what I was looking for and he found the PN in 5 mins for me... asking me if I wanted to order it or not...
2)... I read the same about the battery being controlled by computer..... don't know the answer but let me guesstimate... the 2 cables next to mine look like a 30-50A cable minimum... so I am assuming every single of the 7 slots is 30-50A, my Amp has a 30A fuse... so It will blow and stop the current if higher than 30A..... I don't think I'll have problem and so far every time I runned it full power, nothing bad happened. However if you plan on using 2 amps or more and suck more than 50A... I would consider investigate more before doing it...
3) the only optionals I could think of being installed using the slot next to my amp connection could be the electrical seats or most probably the electrical panurama sunroof (that darn big, and I bet it'll suck lots of amps)
4) Advice... if you have all 6 slots available... well guess what you can use the slot where I have the red original car cable where option is connected to (i.e. sunroof) and I'll bet you can connect up to 50 A...\
Max
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      08-11-2006, 01:28 AM   #38
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Dear Max,

I also have the electric seat,but of course no panorama sunroof.I guess since your's are touring style,the extra cable must be for the sunroof then.

Thank you again for your kind reply,
Best regards
Hadi
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      12-14-2006, 02:56 AM   #39
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Aftermarket Headunit

Hello wurz154, thank you for your detailed thread; Iím about to receive my E91 320D next month and I will replace the six OEM speakers and add four tweeters asap; I think to add a separate amplifier for the two subwoofers (under the front seats) following your instruction as for the connection to the battery. But first I want to replace the OEM Business radio with an Alpine CDA-9854R + steering wheel remote control interface KCE-BMW. My car has no iDrive, no DVD, no CD Changer, no Hi-Fi System and no Logic 7: only Business Radio and 6 speakers.
I have read previous messages and I saw that someone has already made this replacement so I know that I could have some problem.
I have read that a constant 12volts line for the headunit is not prewired and that there is no ignition lead in the power supply plug for the headunit.
Do you know how can I overcome these problems?
Thanks in advance for your reply and suggestion.
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      01-13-2007, 05:42 AM   #40
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Clean and sleek install Wurz!

Thank you also for the install pics and detailed steps for the E91! Do you (or anyone) know where the stock E92 amplifiers are located for the hi-fi system?
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      01-21-2007, 04:29 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Danilo56 View Post
Hello wurz154, thank you for your detailed thread; Iím about to receive my E91 320D next month and I will replace the six OEM speakers and add four tweeters asap; I think to add a separate amplifier for the two subwoofers (under the front seats) following your instruction as for the connection to the battery. But first I want to replace the OEM Business radio with an Alpine CDA-9854R + steering wheel remote control interface KCE-BMW. My car has no iDrive, no DVD, no CD Changer, no Hi-Fi System and no Logic 7: only Business Radio and 6 speakers.
I have read previous messages and I saw that someone has already made this replacement so I know that I could have some problem.
I have read that a constant 12volts line for the headunit is not prewired and that there is no ignition lead in the power supply plug for the headunit.
Do you know how can I overcome these problems?
Thanks in advance for your reply and suggestion.
I have had to overcome this problem because here in the UK you only get 6 speaker system as standard. I have Nav Pro and thought there would be an amp somewhere but I finally found it in the head-unit.

I removed the plastic trim around the radio and then unscrewed the four screws to allow me to pull the head unit out. Once I identified which ouputs are the rear speakers that allowed me to tap some wires off them and send them to the boot.

Because I am using the Infinity Basslink I can connect the speaker level signals and the amp takes care of the conversion.

I recommend the Basslink as it fits perfectly into the compartment under the flap in the boot. I will post a picture when I finally fit mine.

I am in the process of finding a suitably sized connector for the power and possibly cut a hole in the flap in the boot to let the speaker grill show an let the bass out.

Hope this helps.
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      01-29-2007, 05:58 PM   #42
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Hi, marcm.
I have just received my E91 320D and I want to install onto it an Infinity Basslink which I have disinstalled from my old E46: your installation seems to be great!!! :rocks:

I have 2 quick questions for you:

1) where did you get main power for your Basslink? directly from positive side bolt on the battery or...?
2) and what about for the remote? Do you use sub's automatic power on (speakers signal) or remote wire +12V?

I wait for your pics....
Thanks
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      02-03-2007, 06:07 AM   #43
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I am trying to remain open minded here, but with all due respect, I can't imagine that you are even getting 10% of the potential out of that amp and sub with the speaker mounted like that.

it is essential that a sub is very solidly mounted and also essential that it is in a sealed box (even if that box is then ported). If you don't want to lose any space them get a local specialist to build a custom enclosure in that space - you'll be absolutely blown away by how good it could sound.

Cheers

Chris

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      06-09-2007, 09:02 PM   #44
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i am looking to install my subs and amp that i had in my jeep wrangler. its a 4 Gauge wire so its THICK...1200watt amp to power 2 10 inch rockford fosgate dual voice coil! How can i connect the power supply to the main 12V terminal without screwing up the black box on the top of the battery? Next question. Where do i hook up the remote wire? Final question. What color are the speaker wires that i have to tap into? I have E90 Logic 7.

Your help is much appreciated!
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