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      07-04-2007, 04:37 PM   #45
wurz154
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All right guys, some updates.
I've been curious by the poll post "ultimate subwoofer installation guide" about using the subwoofer line instead of the rear line.
First of all I have to specify to Poll and all of them who are curious that the rear line I chose are the one from the source, and so they are carrying the whole music to the amp. (BTW the radio has a 4x25watts). The subwoofer lines are from the amplifier to the speakers and so are a combination of the front and rear channels.
Because of the low signal I was getting to the infinity line I needed to run the amp input sensitivity all the way up, so I decided to give it a shot and try the other set-up.
As a matter of fact by using the sub line I am able to get a higher sensitivity, which allows me to run a bit more basses al low volumes; however so far no differnces in the bass itself has been encountered, even if I still have to fully test the set-up and come to a conclusion.
Right now if I was to start the installation from the get go, I would go with a bridgeable 4 channel amp into 2 ch driving a DVC (dual voice coil) sub, connected to both front and rear channels of the radio; That would give me a higher input level to the amp, and the best signal quality since it is closer to the source by-passing other components (the OEM amp).
Sincerly Max
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      07-05-2007, 11:26 AM   #46
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      10-19-2007, 08:53 AM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wurz154 View Post
First of all I apologize for my bad English since I am
1st picture shows the amplifier on the left side of the car with cables connected.

2nd pic shows the connector already open (there's a little tap to press to being able to open the connector; there will be two peaces one black one grey)...
The tiny black cable is the remote (it's not a normal remote because it does supply +12 when you open a door and it will disengage after 5 minutesish after releasing the key).
The twister pair "blueGreen +, BlueBrown -" is the Rear Right Channel.
The twisted pair "YellowRed+,YellowBrown-" is the Rear Left Channel.
As for making the connection you can use wire taps or make a cut on the insulator with a wire stripper, enlarge the cut with a lighter and wrap the new cable around it, carefull to not cut the wire itself, The second solution is the one I used.... very clean... pict #2 shows the whole cables connected. It won't take any space.

3rd pic shows the battery clamp where I connected the main +12 power cable.The battery is located on the right side

4th shows the circuit braker installed on the right side of the trunk.

Any question feel free to ask.
Hallo wurz154,
what you did are great. I see here you answered lot of questions but I still want to make sure that I really understood what you did with the power supply for your amplifier, and what the signal lines you got as the input for your amplifier.
1. You got the power from the black box which is controlled remotely by the car electronik, and not from the "+ Socket" of the battery directly. You didn't use a female connector which may cost 15$ you said, how did you plug your amp. power supply (red cable) into the empty slot, the one beside the black connector which is used by the OEM ampl.?


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Originally Posted by wurz154 View Post
All right guys, some updates.
I've been curious by the poll post "ultimate subwoofer installation guide" about using the subwoofer line instead of the rear line.
First of all I have to specify to Poll and all of them who are curious that the rear line I chose are the one from the source, and so they are carrying the whole music to the amp. (BTW the radio has a 4x25watts). The subwoofer lines are from the amplifier to the speakers and so are a combination of the front and rear channels.
Because of the low signal I was getting to the infinity line I needed to run the amp input sensitivity all the way up, so I decided to give it a shot and try the other set-up.
As a matter of fact by using the sub line I am able to get a higher sensitivity, which allows me to run a bit more basses al low volumes; however so far no differnces in the bass itself has been encountered, even if I still have to fully test the set-up and come to a conclusion.
Right now if I was to start the installation from the get go, I would go with a bridgeable 4 channel amp into 2 ch driving a DVC (dual voice coil) sub, connected to both front and rear channels of the radio; That would give me a higher input level to the amp, and the best signal quality since it is closer to the source by-passing other components (the OEM amp).
Sincerly Max
2. You taped the signal from the radio directy, and not from the OEM amp., is it correct? "
But you said "The twister pair "blueGreen +, BlueBrown -" is the Rear Right Channel.
The twisted pair "YellowRed+,YellowBrown-" is the Rear Left Channel." Aren't they the cables go to the speaders, so it seems to me you taped the the signal from the speaker cables? I am confused.
The OEM ampl. (of hifi speaker system, not the pro logic7) is a 6 channel ampl., 4x25w and 2x45w (for the woofers under the front seats). It has 6 cable pairs as output and 4 cable pairs as input. The inputs come from the radio, as you named them source signal with the consideration that has the better quality by bypassing the OEM ampl. Why is this signal to low to your inifity-ampl.? I think it is the preamplified signal from the radio, isn't it?

Sorry for my questions, I am considering use a 2x105w Steg amplifier to drive the woofer. If I can not get the line-in signal I would give up the idea. The speaker signal is not too bad?

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      10-20-2007, 09:15 AM   #48
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Hi there,
1.To connect the power supply cable I used a simple Female connector bought @ WalMart, however the solution I didn't use was to buy a black connector with a female connector included that goes into an empty slot.... I don't have the part number but you could request that at a Bimmer dealer... it would have cost $15.

2.Yes a tap into cables from the radio which are high level... I think I read somewhere it's a 4x15w radio... that's why you need a High to Low level converter or install an amp that has it included, Like mine.....
As far as better quality... it's just a consideration I have that the less passes of electronics makes a better quality, so tapping before the OEM amp would have been better!!!! however, because of the power I guess, the signal going to the amp was low to make the sensitivity level gain all the way to up... limiting a bit the output response.... So I am now running the final solution of tapping to the cables going from amp to the subwoofers under the seat.... As to complete the upgrade I changed the subwoofer as mention and Now I am using a beafy Dayton RSS265HO that is fantastic.....

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshow...number=295-462
The final result is extremely satisfying....
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      10-21-2007, 04:43 AM   #49
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Thank you very much wurz154! Now I am klar with my next steps. I would also try to conntect before and after ampl. to see the difference. It is not fine that bmw radio profession doesn't provide a standard preamplifiert signal level as a high/low adatper outputs.
I have already replaced the OEM subwoofers with high valued 20" subwoofers, but with the OEM ampl. it dosn't make any sense.
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      10-30-2007, 07:30 AM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wurz154 View Post
Hi there,
1.To connect the power supply cable I used a simple Female connector bought @ WalMart, however the solution I didn't use was to buy a black connector with a female connector included that goes into an empty slot.... I don't have the part number but you could request that at a Bimmer dealer... it would have cost $15.

2.Yes a tap into cables from the radio which are high level... I think I read somewhere it's a 4x15w radio... that's why you need a High to Low level converter or install an amp that has it included, Like mine.....
As far as better quality... it's just a consideration I have that the less passes of electronics makes a better quality, so tapping before the OEM amp would have been better!!!! however, because of the power I guess, the signal going to the amp was low to make the sensitivity level gain all the way to up... limiting a bit the output response.... So I am now running the final solution of tapping to the cables going from amp to the subwoofers under the seat.... As to complete the upgrade I changed the subwoofer as mention and Now I am using a beafy Dayton RSS265HO that is fantastic.....

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshow...number=295-462
The final result is extremely satisfying....
Hello Wurz154,
I ordered the original black connector with the part number:
61136925166 (2-pin)
There ist an another connector 61136925176 (1-pin).
I just ordered the 2-pin for certainty. I have a question should I just connect the plus, or both the plus and negative?

jonywalker
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      10-30-2007, 07:35 AM   #51
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Originally Posted by jonywalker View Post
Hello Wurz154,
I ordered the original black connector with the part number:
61136925166 (2-pin)
There ist an another connector 61136925176 (1-pin).
I just ordered the 2-pin for certainty. I have a question should I just connect the plus, or both the plus and negative?

jonywalker
You have to connect only the positive, for the negative use the one I used or you can use the bar on the right side.
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      10-30-2007, 08:15 AM   #52
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Oh yeh, thanks again, Wurz154! I recalled you already posted the pictures show the grounding.

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      11-12-2007, 06:53 PM   #53
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I finished installing the amp for subwoofer, and thanks so much to the forum and thread creater, they really helped me.
Here are my experiences for the accomplishment.
I replaced all 10 speakers with aftermarkt high value speakers. To drive the subwoofers I used the hifonics amp 2x100w, which is not very valued but enough.
I tryed first to tap the signal from radio to amp, and find out the signal level from radio was far lower than a amp needed, A normal amp needs a sensitivity between 0,2 - 6 volt, but the output signal of the BMW radio professional is much lower. Even worse is that the two minus of phono input of a amp are short-circuited which resulted in creating mono signal in oem amplifier, that means the output of oem amplier is no more stereo. So I have to choose the second solution of using Hi/lo adapter to tap the subwoofer signals. Actually, I didn't tap the signal, but just pulled out the speaker pins from the BMW amp connector, and asigned them to a Helix AAC hi/lo adaptor. My story was I forget to notice the slot location of pins, I had to spend lot of time to make listening test to know which slot belongs to which color of calbe. Here are my results:
the 3th and 4th slot from left of the grey connector are for sub left + and then -;
the 1th and 2th slot from left of the black connector are for sub right - and then +.
If any one by the chance to open the cover in rear trunk could tell me whether I made the right decision.

The results of my work: I am not satisfied with the sound quality. Although I get the enough bass, but the frequence lower than 50 Hz is still missing, that is the reason why I don't like to using the signal from oem ampifier, and there is absolutely no need to by a high-end amp for the subwoofers in this way. But I don't have an other choice since I could not find a suitable pre-amp to connect between radio and amp. I have now brilliant tweeter and mid-range sound, but bass, strong but still not good enough.

finshed!

jonywalker
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      11-12-2007, 07:25 PM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jonywalker View Post
I finished installing the amp for subwoofer, and thanks so much to the forum and thread creater, they really helped me.
Here are my experiences for the accomplishment.
I replaced all 10 speakers with aftermarkt high value speakers. To drive the subwoofers I used the hifonics amp 2x100w, which is not very valued but enough.
I tryed first to tap the signal from radio to amp, and find out the signal level from radio was far lower than a amp needed, A normal amp needs a sensitivity between 0,2 - 6 volt, but the output signal of the BMW radio professional is much lower. Even worse is that the two minus of phono input of a amp are short-circuited which resulted in creating mono signal in oem amplifier, that means the output of oem amplier is no more stereo. So I have to choose the second solution of using Hi/lo adapter to tap the subwoofer signals. Actually, I didn't tap the signal, but just pulled out the speaker pins from the BMW amp connector, and asigned them to a Helix AAC hi/lo adaptor. My story was I forget to notice the slot location of pins, I had to spend lot of time to make listening test to know which slot belongs to which color of calbe. Here are my results:
the 3th and 4th slot from left of the grey connector are for sub left + and then -;
the 1th and 2th slot from left of the black connector are for sub right - and then +.
If any one by the chance to open the cover in rear trunk could tell me whether I made the right decision.

The results of my work: I am not satisfied with the sound quality. Although I get the enough bass, but the frequence lower than 50 Hz is still missing, that is the reason why I don't like to using the signal from oem ampifier, and there is absolutely no need to by a high-end amp for the subwoofers in this way. But I don't have an other choice since I could not find a suitable pre-amp to connect between radio and amp. I have now brilliant tweeter and mid-range sound, but bass, strong but still not good enough.

finshed!

jonywalker
I think that your problem was that you were feeding a balanced signal to a non-balanced inputs amp... get a SVEN LOC and try tapping again the OEM HU outputs. That will give you a full bandwidth signal with the right topology for your amp (non-balanced).
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      11-13-2007, 06:09 AM   #55
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I think that your problem was that you were feeding a balanced signal to a non-balanced inputs amp... get a SVEN LOC and try tapping again the OEM HU outputs. That will give you a full bandwidth signal with the right topology for your amp (non-balanced).
yes, exactly! I tried to search the forum again, and found one article telling about BMW balanced signal of HU. Since I do have the analog output of HU, so I can take the advantage to use full ranged signal.
Could you tell me where to buy the SVEN LOC preprocessor. I put it in google, and found nothing.

Thanks!

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      11-13-2007, 06:13 AM   #56
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yes, exactly! I tried to search the forum again, and found one article telling about BMW balanced signal of HU. Since I do have the analog output of HU, so I can take the advantage to use full ranged signal.
Could you tell me where to buy the SVEN LOC preprocessor. I put it in google, and found nothing.

Thanks!

jonywalker
There are two SVEN: SVEN2 (2-channel) and SVEN4 (4-channel)... http://www.discountcarstereo.com/detail.aspx?ID=1080
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      11-13-2007, 08:55 AM   #57
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There are two SVEN: SVEN2 (2-channel) and SVEN4 (4-channel)... http://www.discountcarstereo.com/detail.aspx?ID=1080
Thanks! But I am afraid the SVEN output is still not high enough for the least sensitivity of my amp since it doesn't amplify the signal from the HU, or you have already been experienced with it?

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      11-13-2007, 10:03 AM   #58
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Thanks! But I am afraid the SVEN output is still not high enough for the least sensitivity of my amp since it doesn't amplify the signal from the HU, or you have already been experienced with it?

jonywalker
The SVEN works well, in my experience. However, if you are very concerned with output level then you would need to get an Audiocontrol LC6i: https://resources.myeporia.com/Company_38/LC6i_OM.pdf

Not only is going to convert the diferential/balanced signal to non-differential, clean the signal and even give you 6 channels output from 4, you will be able to increase the voltage output up to 9.5V... I think that you will be more than satisfied.
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      11-14-2007, 06:13 AM   #59
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The SVEN works well, in my experience. However, if you are very concerned with output level then you would need to get an Audiocontrol LC6i: https://resources.myeporia.com/Company_38/LC6i_OM.pdf

Not only is going to convert the diferential/balanced signal to non-differential, clean the signal and even give you 6 channels output from 4, you will be able to increase the voltage output up to 9.5V... I think that you will be more than satisfied.
Thanks for your info. I found the best fit for my solution from the audiocontrol: Overdrive Line driver, it has balanced input, and I could get the full ranged signal, always sufficient output level. Unfortunately, I am in Germany, I have to order it from USA, and don't know the final preis when I receive it. I placed the order ready and wanna see when I will get it.

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      11-14-2007, 08:25 AM   #60
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Originally Posted by jonywalker View Post
Thanks for your info. I found the best fit for my solution from the audiocontrol: Overdrive Line driver, it has balanced input, and I could get the full ranged signal, always sufficient output level. Unfortunately, I am in Germany, I have to order it from USA, and don't know the final preis when I receive it. I placed the order ready and wanna see when I will get it.

jonywalker
If you are planning to stay with a 2-channel LOC convertion, yes, the Overdrive is what you need. You will need to add RCA plugs to your OEM HU output wires, though.
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      01-09-2009, 01:50 PM   #61
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Just finish installing an after market subwoofer kit. I took signal from the rear speaker to feed the amp, I powered the remote from the cigarette lighter(has +12v when engine is running)Everything seems ok but one...When i increase radios' volume it trip-off. the audio will come back when i'll disconnect the rca jack going to the amp!

Can some one help me here?
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      01-09-2009, 01:56 PM   #62
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Just finish installing an after market subwoofer kit. I took signal from the rear speaker to feed the amp, I powered the remote from the cigarette lighter(has +12v when engine is running)Everything seems ok but one...When i increase radios' volume it trip-off. the audio will come back when i'll disconnect the rca jack going to the amp!

Can some one help me here?
What amp model are you using and what LOC model if any?
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      01-09-2009, 02:30 PM   #63
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First thanks for your quick reply!

The Kit is FUSION - reactor 600 wats (RE-PK 1120), i got it from Halfords. 2 channels input and 2 channels out which is brigable. i bridge my out put to a sinlge speaker 12' which is all set in one box as i got it. I check the polarity of my output which is good...

Hope you can help me with this!!!

Again thanks tech***
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      01-09-2009, 02:53 PM   #64
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First thanks for your quick reply!

The Kit is FUSION - reactor 600 wats (RE-PK 1120), i got it from Halfords. 2 channels input and 2 channels out which is brigable. i bridge my out put to a sinlge speaker 12' which is all set in one box as i got it. I check the polarity of my output which is good...

Hope you can help me with this!!!

Again thanks tech***
What line output converter are you using? I don't see any reference of your RE-PK1120 or the RE-AM45020 amp that you are using that says that it accepts any kind of speaker level inputs...
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      01-09-2009, 03:05 PM   #65
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What line output converter are you using? I don't see any reference of your RE-PK1120 or the RE-AM45020 amp that you are using that says that it accepts any kind of speaker level inputs...
Actually none, what i did is that straight from radio output -> to apm input. any suggestions....

Thanks!
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      01-09-2009, 03:35 PM   #66
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Actually none, what i did is that straight from radio output -> to apm input. any suggestions....

Thanks!
Yes, get a line output converter!

I don't know what you have available in you country, but something like this can help you: http://www.myradiostore.com/noise-fi...eis-loc-t.html

Your problem is that you are inputting a high level signal into your amp low level signal-only inputs.
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