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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > N54 Turbo Engine / Drivetrain / Exhaust Modifications - 335i > *Wastegate Ticking Noise Found*



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      04-06-2008, 12:35 PM   #23
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nice thnks for the great info this makes me feel a lot loss worried about the issue
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      04-06-2008, 12:42 PM   #24
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nice thnks for the great info this makes me feel a lot loss worried about the issue
Go outside and see if you have the loose wastegate rod.
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      04-06-2008, 12:44 PM   #25
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This is great info, please let us know how you fix the problem. I have been wanting DP but was nervous, that once I installed them the wastegates would go out. Also do you have a better pics of where the rod is your adjusting?
Thanks
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      04-06-2008, 02:17 PM   #26
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^ He posted up another two pics on page 1 showing the location of it.
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      04-06-2008, 02:29 PM   #27
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Pull off the C-clip and pop off the actuator arm and place a Metal washer on the flapper then put the actuator arm back on, Easy.
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      04-06-2008, 03:36 PM   #28
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Mine's doing the same, albeit not nearly as loud.

Since reading everything about it, honestly, I was never worried about it. I really didn't think it was the wastegate itself flapping. If that were the case, the actuator would/should have been the target, but everyone was going ape shit over the flap itself.

If it starts to bother me, I'll address it. When I see BMW come out with something that they're going to voluntarily fix it, then I'll address that.

But I commend those who actually found the issue. Many kudos to them.
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      04-06-2008, 03:41 PM   #29
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I can't believe that nobody has checked theirs to see if it's loose yet.

If people are not having the ticking issue, and the wastegate rod is loose then what I found is not the problem.






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      04-06-2008, 04:01 PM   #30
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I can't believe that nobody has checked theirs to see if it's loose yet.

If people are not having the ticking issue, and the wastegate rod is loose then what I found is not the problem.






.
OK,...I'm trying to help. But forgive my ignorance as I don't know what most of these pieces are. I THINK I have the same area in question. I DO NOT have the ticking sound and I have a step tranny if it makes a difference. Here is the area I think you're talking about. If it is then it definitely looks different to me.
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      04-06-2008, 04:11 PM   #31
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Here's a better pic.
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      04-06-2008, 04:15 PM   #32
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Yes.
Thanks for posting.

When you move that rod in the picture side to side (in the direction of the red arows) Is it loose at the green arow and yellow arow?

After going to my car again today and trying pressure in different ways, I'm thinking that the issue is the looseness at the yellow arow.
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      04-06-2008, 04:20 PM   #33
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Thanks for the second pic.
I think that you have the same slop as me since I can see space where my red arrow is.

Therefor, I think that my ticking problem is due to slack at the yellow arrow.

Do you have slack here?
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      04-06-2008, 04:23 PM   #34
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I just got back from a long drive so the car is hot. But with car off there is NO MOVEMENT at all in that rod from left to right. Its hard to get my fingers in there so I used a long screwdriver and pryed in each direction with no movement.
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      04-06-2008, 04:40 PM   #35
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OK,..I tried again from all different directions. I pushed from the green arrow, yellow, and red arrows on you first pic of mine above. Still no significant movement. Again, the car is off if this matters and it is too hot and narrow for me to try this with the car on. I did start the car and noticed no movement there either with the car at idle.

I dont know if it matters Mr.5 but I can't see the rivet/pin at the apex of your rod. On mine it has a orange (rusted) pin/rivet through the black piece and between the silver rod and the black piece there is apparently a washer there. This exactly coincides with where you are stating you have a gap. Here is a diagram of what I mean. The MIDDLE orange stripe and the LEFT stripes are where I have what looks like washers.
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      04-06-2008, 05:20 PM   #36
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OK went outside and mine looks the same as yours. I do not have any play in mine in any of the arrows you provide. I do not have the sound you have in your video. It is possible that you have found the culprit. People who actually have this sound should really be the ones checking this out and apply pressure as you did to see if it decreases the noise as well. Mr. 5 did you go to the dealer with your mods, just curious. My car makes a different sound between 1800 and 2000 rpm. It seems to be in the downpipe area and sounds as if my RR dp's are rubbing each other or a peice of plastic. It is a plastic rattle sound not a ticking sound. Anyways good luck, keep us posted.
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      04-06-2008, 05:36 PM   #37
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Hey Mr. 5, just checked mine and its REALLY LOOSE!!!! There is ALOT of play in the rod, its NOT tight by any means. Also, as you and many others probably know, my ticking noise is LOUD and my wastegate actuator in my rear turbo has even been replace, and the ticking is still present.

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      04-06-2008, 05:53 PM   #38
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wow that sounded really bad lol
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      04-06-2008, 05:58 PM   #39
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AU335 I think you and Mr.5 have play here because there is a lack of the washers in one or both areas in the pic below. See my unaltered and photoshop pics above. I have a washer there in both areas. See post # 33 for a good pic of the far side of the silver rod.
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      04-06-2008, 06:39 PM   #40
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Here is what I mean. I have a washer on the left side that I think you guys don't have.
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      04-06-2008, 06:48 PM   #41
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OK went outside and mine looks the same as yours. I do not have any play in mine in any of the arrows you provide. I do not have the sound you have in your video. It is possible that you have found the culprit. People who actually have this sound should really be the ones checking this out and apply pressure as you did to see if it decreases the noise as well. Mr. 5 did you go to the dealer with your mods, just curious. My car makes a different sound between 1800 and 2000 rpm. It seems to be in the downpipe area and sounds as if my RR dp's are rubbing each other or a peice of plastic. It is a plastic rattle sound not a ticking sound. Anyways good luck, keep us posted.
I went to the dealer one time because I shorted something out and my car had no power. They fixed it but they were giving me a hint that I've done so much to the car and it would be hard to get approval from BMW Engineering.
I just said that I understood and left it at that.
My SA said that I shouldn't worry, but the guys that you have to worry about are the mechanics--not the Service Advisors.

The Tech has the last say in what is covered and what isn't.
I figured that I would respect what they had to say and put the car back to stock if I needed to get something fixed under warranty.
Doing this covers their butt.

Here's the thing. They really want to fix the car, but they don't want to get caught by BMWNA if they are performing warranty work on cars that have performance mods on them. I'm sure doing this is in some sort of violation of the Dealer's rules and could most likely get slapped with a pretty good fine.

With all that said,
It pays to know about cars when modifying a car.
I'd like to get this matter resolved by myself, so I don't need to mess with the Dealer. Especially if a fix is adding a washer or 2.

The problem that I'm seeing though is this:

My engine did not always sound like this. So, the rod loosened. If it loosened then it will most likely loosen even more.
What do we need to do to ensure that this rod doesn't loosen again?
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      04-06-2008, 07:13 PM   #42
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I went to the dealer one time because I shorted something out and my car had no power. They fixed it but they were giving me a hint that I've done so much to the car and it would be hard to get approval from BMW Engineering.
I just said that I understood and left it at that.
My SA said that I shouldn't worry, but the guys that you have to worry about are the mechanics--not the Service Advisors.

The Tech has the last say in what is covered and what isn't.
I figured that I would respect what they had to say and put the car back to stock if I needed to get something fixed under warranty.
Doing this covers their butt.

Here's the thing. They really want to fix the car, but they don't want to get caught by BMWNA if they are performing warranty work on cars that have performance mods on them. I'm sure doing this is in some sort of violation of the Dealer's rules and could most likely get slapped with a pretty good fine.

With all that said,
It pays to know about cars when modifying a car.
I'd like to get this matter resolved by myself, so I don't need to mess with the Dealer. Especially if a fix is adding a washer or 2.

The problem that I'm seeing though is this:

My engine did not always sound like this. So, the rod loosened. If it loosened then it will most likely loosen even more.
What do we need to do to ensure that this rod doesn't loosen again?
I'm guessing something like this might do the trick. Easiest fix I could think of. The pin that connects the black piece with the silver rod looks about 1/4 inch diameter. (Best to measure it with a caliper.) How you get there to put this damn thing on,...well can't help you there.

Also a Lock Washer might work if you can open it up and close it back in place. That's probably a lot harder though.

http://store.nutsandbolts.com/basic-...ring-8701.html

You could also "rig" the thing with a solid core copper wire that you wrap around the pin shaft and twist it in place like a tie wrap. Some home electrical wire or solid core telephone wire should work. In fact THIS is probably the easiest solution of all. If it breaks, so what...fix it again and if it doesn't work,...this is EASY to remove and replace. Also, you could tailor it to the right width.
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      04-06-2008, 07:45 PM   #43
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Here is what I mean. I have a washer on the left side that I think you guys don't have.
this is good info i'm surprised no one responded yet
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      04-06-2008, 07:51 PM   #44
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this is good info i'm surprised no one responded yet
Me too
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