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      07-01-2010, 11:37 AM   #331
harmzz
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have u not run the subs with new wires to the sub channel ?

Ive got standard e60 setup, ran new wires for subs 4ohms connected in parellel to sub inputs bridged and fronts to fronts and backs to back
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      07-01-2010, 11:53 AM   #332
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Originally Posted by harmzz View Post
have u not run the subs with new wires to the sub channel ?

Ive got standard e60 setup, ran new wires for subs 4ohms connected in parellel to sub inputs bridged and fronts to fronts and backs to back
My Amp is the 475, the 4 channel Amp and not the 5 channel 575
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      08-05-2010, 01:50 PM   #333
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Would someone please do me a favour who has this Blaupunk TH555 installed.

Could you check to see if the speaker wires that go to the input and output on the amp on the loom have the negative marker on the amp going to the wire with the black stripe and the positive connector on the amp going to the wire without the stripe.

Thats how mine was wired by an installer but I've grown up with the positive of a speaker pair always having a black stripe on the wire or writing in the case of a non striped cable.

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      08-15-2011, 04:50 PM   #334
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Are the OEM subs wired in parallel with the door speakers?

Hi everyone. I'm new to this forum and have browsing the site for days reading all that I can regarding the Blaupunkt amp upgrade (and speaker upgrade) for my '10 328i Convertible. I have the pathetic Base stereo (4 midrange speakers and two 6.5" Mid-Bass/subs under the front seats.

Based on "Gizze's" and others recommendations and upgrades, I've decided to go with the DLS R4 components up front and their 4" coaxials in the rear side panels.

One question I have is if I decide to go with the Earthquake 8" subs to replace the OEM ones, can I leave them wired into the existing factory wiring (which I believe is running in parallel with the door speakers?) If so, I'm assuming I'll need to buy the 4ohm versions as the DLS speakers are 4ohm. Is this correct? Also, because they'll be running in parallel will this give them more or less power? Will it damage the Blaupunkt amp running them wired up this way?

The Blaupunkt amp I have is the THA 555 PNP, which puts out 55 watts per channel into a 4ohm load, plus the 5th channel for the subs (can't recall the 5th channel wattage off hand). Obviously, it would be much better use that 5th channel for the Earthquakes, but I'm not quite sure how to wire it. Seeing how there are two 8" subs and the 5th channel is mono. Would I tie the speaker wires for the subs together, thus creating a 2ohm load? Is it OK for that amp to run 4ohms to the 4 speakers and 2ohms to the Earthquakes?
If anyone can shed some light on that, it would be greatly appreciated! And thanks to everyone on this forum who posted pics and instructions for the upgrade. I'm looking forward to tackling it this weekend!
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      08-15-2011, 05:08 PM   #335
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Run them off the mono channel.

There are two outputs on that mono channel, so just wire them both as normal, buy the 4ohm versions and it will see a 2 ohm load.

I wouldn't bother with upgrading the rear speakers, seriously, just use the stock speakers and cut the high frequencies from them, and make sure nothing below 100hz gets to them either, this will give you some rear fill without pulling the soundstage away from the front of the car.

Add them if you feel it is missing something. You won't.
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      08-26-2011, 02:19 AM   #336
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Thanks Gizze for your response. I wired up everything this weekend (minus the Blaupunkt THA 555 amp as I'm awaiting the proper BMW radio harness from Blue Spot). I installed two DLS 4" Reference components up front and 4" Reference coaxials in the rear panels. I also installed two Earthquake subs (4 ohm versions) under the front seats.

I do have a few more questions for you based on your last post. You mention in your last post about wiring both of the subs directly to the THA 555 as it has two sets of mono outputs. If I did that, wouldn't the amp see a 4 ohm load seeing how both subs are 4 ohm? What I did instead, was wired them together (in parallel) so that the amp sees a 2 ohm load and thus they each will get 125W RMS as opposed to 100W RMS as a 4 ohm load. Isn't this the preferred way of wiring them to the amp? Also, I'm assuming it's OK that the other 4 channels see a 4 ohm load, while the sub channel sees a 2 ohm load?

What should I set the high pass filters for the front and rear to? I'll assume 120Hz? Obviously, set the sub channel low pass to 120Hz as well? The two questions I have regarding settings are the high pass filter on the sub channel -- what should I set it to?
And, since the subs are wired directly to the amp (independent of the wiring harness), should I still leave the sensitivity set to 8V for the sub channel or adjust it down?

One final question, I could not find anywhere on this forum that detailed the colored wiring diagram for all 4 speakers in the BASE stereo coming out of the factory head unit into the factory speakers. I want to ensure I have the polarity correct. If you could shed any light on this that would be greatly appreciated. Thank you again for all your help. This is my 5th BMW (and install), yet this is the most complicated. Arggghhh!!
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      08-26-2011, 04:48 AM   #337
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How you have wired them is the same.

If you went from the + out of the amp to the + on teh first sub, and then from - of that sub to the + of the next sub, and then - from that sub back to the - on the amp it would see an 8ohm load.

You have just put twice the load on the amp, which is the same as plugging two in direct if you think about it. You have just attached the cables further up the cable if that makes sense.
The way I said it meant you cold use two equal lengths and if you needed to give it an 8 ohm load you simply connect the two - wires together in the rear by the amp.

But fine how you have done it.



Set the gain as low as possible for front and rear.
Then adjust the sub till you can hear them.

120 hi pass fronts. (but play with this, but a bassy track on loud and see how low your fronts go, the lower the better in my opinion)
120 hi pass rear and I like to set a low pass of around 7khz as well. Hate the soundstage being pulled to the rear. (I disconnected my rears in the end) .

Set the subs low pass the same as the fronts hi pass.
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      08-26-2011, 04:49 AM   #338
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Polarity?
Not sure, think it is marked on the oem speakers??
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      08-27-2011, 05:55 PM   #339
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Gizze - thank you for your answers. I've set the high pass filters on the front and rears to 120 as you recommended , but will play with them to find the sweet spot. I've also set the low pass filter on the subs to 120. I have turned off the low pass filter for the rears -- is that correct? I'm assuming I want it off as I'd like some mid-basss/mid-range going to the rears. I actually prefer to be enveloped in the sound, hence the reason I put in the DLS Reference 4" coaxials back there. Plus, since it's a convertible, most of the sound goes right up and out with the top down, so the more speakers, the better.

One question I have is, what should I set the High Pass filter on the sub channel to? though? Also, the polarity of the OEM speakers is not on the actual speakers themselves. I've looked everywhere and for the life of me can not find a speaker color wiring diagram for the E90/91/92/93 Base stereo set up. I've only seen the Hi-Fi and Logic 7, which are different as they both have an OEM amp as you know.

Thanks! Btw, where exactly is Norfolk in the UK? My grandparents on my mother's side were born in Clifton, England. I'll be heading to Wimbledon next year and can't wait!
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      08-27-2011, 06:26 PM   #340
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I would set the high pass at around 25-30hz, but if you leave it you will be fine.


Norfolk is the little bit that sicks out on the east coat about 50-100 miles north of London.
Wimbedon is like a leafy suburb of London, some really nice areas, but still London.

If you're over here for a while definitely worth getting out of London and seeing some real England. Think of old English Pubs with decent beer and open fires where you can settle down for the evening with a pie and a pint.
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      08-28-2011, 05:47 AM   #341
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Hey guy i have a question for those who have this amp, if i hook this thing up through the pnp harness are the rca outs functional for me to wire up a second amp for my sub?

many thanks

Theo,
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      08-28-2011, 06:17 AM   #342
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I'd try it with the underseat subs amped first - that might be enough.
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      08-31-2011, 04:01 PM   #343
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Gizze, do you see any need for re-coding the base radio? I've read conflicting threads on here that some say the base radio produces a heavily EQ'd signal. Others say it produces a flat/linear output. Thanks! And thanks for the tips on my upcoming trip to Wimby next year!
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      08-31-2011, 05:41 PM   #344
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The base stereo in the States is the Professional system but with no amp yeah?

It is not the business head unit.


The professional head unit, the one that shows MP3 track names is EQ'd to fuck to take into account the lack of bass and the fact there are no tweeters.
I have actually put a business unit in my car with the alpine amp and speakers as it sounded so bad, it was causing a distortion in the mids and the tweeters were far too loud.

But BMW can code it for the Alpine amp which I am hoping flattens the EQ completely, I am getting mine done next week I hope.
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      08-31-2011, 10:24 PM   #345
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Gizze - you are correct. The base stereo here in the US is not the Business radio. In fact, it doesn't say Business or Professional anywhere on the head unit itself (or anywhere else for that matter). In the other three BMW's I've owned, it stated on the radio itself whether it was "Business" or "Professional". BTW, I have the NAV with I-Drive too, so maybe that's why it's not printed on the radio itself. Anyhow, I figured it was heavily EQ'd as there is no amp & no tweeters and only the four 4" paper cone P.O.S. and the 6.5" "subs" under each seat.

I have installed everything - the Blaupunkt THA-555 Plug-N-Play 5 channel amp, DLS reference components up front, DLS reference coaxials in the rear and Earthquake subs under each seat. Two full days of work.

The current problem I'm having is that the front speakers sound muffled. The subs are definitely working and sound WAY better that the stock ones. Of course that's because these are 8" and are getting 125W RMS each.

Any reason why the front speakers would sound muffled? Would connecting them wrong (i.e. the polarity) cause this? I really don't want to take those damn door panels off again to look at the crossovers.......Any ideas?
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      08-31-2011, 10:51 PM   #346
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Actually, no sound is coming out of the front speakers, only the subs and the rear speakers! And, my bluetooth and Ipod are no longer working. The bluetooth and Ipod worked prior to me installing the Blaupunkt BMW Radio Harness as they were all running off the OEM factory I-drive/radio set up. Once I connected the harness, the subs sounded great, the rear speakers sounded great, but now the bluetooth and Ipod are not saying "not connected"? Any ideas or resets I need to do??? Thank you.
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      09-01-2011, 04:55 AM   #347
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gdcpsu94 View Post
Actually, no sound is coming out of the front speakers, only the subs and the rear speakers! And, my bluetooth and Ipod are no longer working. The bluetooth and Ipod worked prior to me installing the Blaupunkt BMW Radio Harness as they were all running off the OEM factory I-drive/radio set up. Once I connected the harness, the subs sounded great, the rear speakers sounded great, but now the bluetooth and Ipod are not saying "not connected"? Any ideas or resets I need to do??? Thank you.
Did you transfer the most optical connector from the factory radio connector into the plug and play connector??



It is the green cable in the pic above. There is a little lever you press down so it will slide out.

This will bring your bluetooth and usb back to life.




No sound from front speakers??
Well if the subs are working that means you are getting sound from the front speakers to the amp, as the sub channel takes its info from the front channel input.

I would plug one of the front speakers into the sub input before doing anything else and see if you can hear anything from that speaker, if you can, it will be muffled as only low frequenices, then you know you have a problem the front channels on the amp.

You could also take the oem mid range you took out and plug that into the font outs of the amp, this is probably a better idea, if you get sound you know you have a wiring issue in the door somewhere, if you get no sound then it sounds like an amp issue.


You need to start narrowing down the possibilities.
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      09-01-2011, 12:47 PM   #348
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Gizze - Thank you! Once again, you are the man with all the answers. Regarding the front speakers not working, could it be due to the fact that I've disconnected the OEM plug that went to the OEM subwoofers under the seats? Seeing how in the OEM set up the front subs were run in parallel with the front speakers, I'm thinking that since those sub wires/plug are no longer connected to anything that this has interrupted the signal and hence the front speakers are receiving any signal.
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      09-01-2011, 12:55 PM   #349
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Yeah probably right there, never thought of that.

Have a look at the connector on the woofer you took out, see if you can see the tracks on it to see which wires hook up together. You will probably have just pop the wires out of the connector and hook them together, I would just wrap them with insulation tape, that will be fine and you can put it back then as well if you need to.
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      09-01-2011, 02:40 PM   #350
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To clarify, should I take the wires out of the OEM subwoofer connector and tie the positive and negative together? Or, should I follow those two wires along the door sill and see where they split off into the door speaker wiring, then splice the ends back into the door speaker wiring?

I looked at your original post on this thread and we basically did the same upgrade, so I'm curious as to how you wired your Earthquake subs and DLS components up front and if you ran into this same issue? Thanks again.
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      09-01-2011, 02:43 PM   #351
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You have to remember that they took the feed back to the speakers from the sub from 03.2010 builds onwards, up until that point they just split near the footwell.
This was done to make the Alpine upgrade easier, but is obviously causing an issue here.

Edit: Forget this bit in italic..........I think you just need to link the ins and outs on the connector that is now loose, or splice into the wires going to the speaker, which you can do an inch or so from this connector, but if you look at the tracks you may get a better idea of which one os coming from the head unit and which one is going to the main speakers that's all.




Edit: I forgot the wiring is all behind the head unit.
You simply have a broken connection now that connector is removed from the sub.
You just need to crimp the ins and outs from that connector together, just make sure you crimp positive to positive and negative to negative.
Remove the door sill, pull back carpet, find connector and crimp the wires.
if you look at the track on the removed woofer you should see which ones you need to crimp together.
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      09-01-2011, 03:31 PM   #352
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I figured it was a broken connection, just wasn't sure how to rectify it. The OEM subwoofer plug has 4 wires going into it. Two of these wires (the ones on the left side of the plug) are the same color as the wires that go into the OEM door speaker. May I presume that these are the output wires? (seeing how in the OEM setup it was wired in parallel?) That would make the other two wires on the plug (the ones on the right side) the input wires coming directly out of the OEM head unit I presume? This all makes sense now.

On a different note, you mentioned that you put in a Business CD Head Unit in yours? I thought you did the same Blaupunkt amp and DLS speakers upgrade that I did and that it sounded fantastic with the earthquake subs and all? Am I mistaken?
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