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      09-01-2011, 02:48 PM   #353
gIzzE
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Yeah but that was in a much older car, and it was with Diamond Audio HEX600 speakers as well, with the tweeter set at -3db on the crossover.

I have had around 4 cars since then!!

I am in a Merc E320 Brabus estate and a BMW X1 at the moment and the X1 head unit seems to have some funky stuff going on.
I am booked in on the 14th to have it coded.
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      09-11-2011, 11:26 PM   #354
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Hi Gizze - The Bluetooth and USB are once again operational now that I've connected the plug as you suggested. Thanks again.

I recall you had the DLS Reference Components in your BMW up front, the issue I'm having is the grill keeps popping off b/c the speakers are put in very tightly to the door panel (which is curved), hence the reason the grill keeps popping off upon closing the door. Any suggestions? Did you have this problem? those DLS grills do not fit in very well -- it's a funky design. Any help?? Thanks
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      09-11-2011, 11:46 PM   #355
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I have DLS, but not the reference series and the grills don't fall off.
I have had one of the tweeter surround ring fall off once.
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      09-12-2011, 03:29 AM   #356
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I mounted the speakers to the outside of the door card and used the DLS grille, not something many would want to do I guess.
I think I worked out that if I did put the oem speakers back in the oem grille would cover the holes, and my car had the m-sport alcantara and cloth, so a hole in cloth would disappear when the screw was removed, leather wouldn't.
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      09-14-2011, 02:22 PM   #357
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so by simpley adding this Plug and play amp will allow me to upgrade and power all of the speakers in my base system and for example add the extra tweaters and front dash speaker as per B33M3Rs install including uprated under seat subs?
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      09-14-2011, 02:42 PM   #358
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Yeah, but forget the centre speaker.
They never add anything in my opinion, good for a poor system but detract from a good one.

There are other options amp wise, and you can simply buy a Parrot sound on top cable and 2x5m iso speaker cables to make it all pretty much plug and play.
the Blaupunkt was a very good option 3 years ago, but others have better Class D amps now, albeit for more money.

JL make some corkers, Vibe make a great range of Class GH amps, called the Litebox range, and DLS have a very nice range of digital amps too.

So consider what you want to do and then buy.

A DLS CA31 works well, new speakers driven off the front channels and the sub channel driving the underseat subs, for example.

Loads of choice.
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      09-25-2011, 07:36 PM   #359
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If anyone is interested, I have the following equipment for sale to do almost a complete stereo upgrade.

Blaupunkt THA-555 PnP 5 channel amplifier
2 Earthquake Sound SWS-8x Subwoofer
Blaupunkt Adapter cable THA/PnP (Part #: 7 607 622 016-001)
Blaupunkt Connection cable THA/PnP 5.5m (Part #: 7 607 622 011-001)

$500 + shipping for all items. All items are brand new and have never been installed or used. I bought them and decided to not do an upgrade in my e90.

Let me know if you are interested.
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      07-27-2012, 07:26 AM   #360
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Hi all,

Sorry to bring this thread back but it's a great one .

I've done a little research on adding a THA-275/475/555 to a basic BMW sound system and it seems the logical way to go however, this system doesn't come with tweeters which for the amp may cause problems i.e. burn out. Basically the way I see it is that if you install the THA-275 for example on only the factory front 4 speakers (x2 mids front, x2 under seat) it'll be fine and will run on 2ohms no problem BUT, add L7 or HiFi tweeters and you're running three speakers on one channel at around 1.3ohms which will burn out the amp. If this is the case then buying the THA-275 is pointless as you'd have to run the under seat subs from the rear channel and then front mids/tweeters on the front channel by using a 4 channel amp such as the 475 or 555. This would require cutting of the Blaupunkt PnP loom and therefore it's a pointless install, you may as well go aftermarket for it all, right? The rear speakers would be run of the HU as normal so don't come into the equation as such.

The other way to do this would be to run the under seat subs off of their own channel which again would require cutting of the OE loom connecting to the subs and new wire going to the amp.

Now that this install is tried and tested, how did people get on with that? Is it now deemed an nonviable option due to the above issue?

I'm upgrading to L7 tweeters and mids which will no doubt highlight the sh*t base, for that an amp is required...somehow but it looks as if that's only achievable in a non-PnP fashion or is there a way? I'm wondering if I'd be happy with L7 mids and an amp only as I never plan to upgrade the under seat subs.

On a side note, why do some of you run the THA amps from the battery and others directly from the HU? What are the benefits of running power from the battery if PnP power is catered for?

The way is see it is that this is a good PnP upgrade the OE system however, it can only be used if you don't add tweeters.

Last edited by Cozy; 07-27-2012 at 08:04 AM.
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      01-05-2013, 04:15 AM   #361
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I have just installed tha 275 to my e90 320 d with the professional head unit.
I have two questions.
1. Should the rear speakers still work, as they are not working
2. No sound from the parking distance control sensor.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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      01-05-2013, 04:44 AM   #362
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1. the harness has a loop thorugh, if you are not using the 4 channel amp you hook the rears speakers back to each other, near the amp end.

2. Maybe your PDC comes through the rear speakers?
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      01-05-2013, 04:48 AM   #363
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Many thanks for the quick reply.
It is the 2 channel amp. How do I hook the rear speakers back to each other at the amp end?
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      01-05-2013, 04:56 AM   #364
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It was year ago when I did it.

But the amp harness has a connector for rear speakers, these plug into each other.
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      01-05-2013, 05:17 AM   #365
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Thank you. Will give this a try later.
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      01-05-2013, 09:16 AM   #366
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All working fine now. School boy error really.

Many thanks again.
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      01-05-2013, 11:22 AM   #367
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Have you installed tweeters too?
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      01-05-2013, 11:30 AM   #368
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No just the amp with the standard door speakers and under seat subs. Is it worth installing the tweeters?
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      04-09-2013, 07:36 PM   #369
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Help for best setup

GIzzE or anybody, need your help!
This is what I've got to try to setup some quality sound for my Beemer 525D Touring.
1 blaupunkt Tha475, 2 Focal 165 Polyglass tweeters with crossovers, 4 Focal 100 CA and 2 GZW Ground Zero Subwoofers.
Now what is the best way to get the best sound of this all, speccialy from the subs.
Thanks
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      04-10-2013, 01:45 AM   #370
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blackrider71 View Post
GIzzE or anybody, need your help!
This is what I've got to try to setup some quality sound for my Beemer 525D Touring.
1 blaupunkt Tha475, 2 Focal 165 Polyglass tweeters with crossovers, 4 Focal 100 CA and 2 GZW Ground Zero Subwoofers.
Now what is the best way to get the best sound of this all, speccialy from the subs.
Thanks
Are 100 CAA not co-axials? If yes, do you really need additional tweeters?

This amp can produce 75W @ 4 ohms in 4 channel mode, so run your front speakers and underseats from it. Leave the rear for HU to power.
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      04-11-2013, 12:27 PM   #371
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Quote:
Originally Posted by makkan00 View Post
Are 100 CAA not co-axials? If yes, do you really need additional tweeters?

This amp can produce 75W @ 4 ohms in 4 channel mode, so run your front speakers and underseats from it. Leave the rear for HU to power.
Thanks for the fast reply!
By doing this, do I plug the front speakers in the front amp input and the subs in the rear amp input? What about the settings for low pass and hi pass?
The tweeters just came with the package I' ve bought ;-)
Thanks!
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      04-11-2013, 01:25 PM   #372
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blackrider71 View Post
Thanks for the fast reply!
By doing this, do I plug the front speakers in the front amp input and the subs in the rear amp input? What about the settings for low pass and hi pass?
The tweeters just came with the package I' ve bought ;-)
Thanks!
If its plug and play kit, then it should look after channels division automatically.

Connect the wires for rear speaker together on the harness at the amp end. As you are not amping the rears, so signals should go back and rears can produce some sound.

You sub / front speakers should take signals just from the front. How you do it, it should be in the manual. If you have 2 channel switch on the amp, then it should be turned on.

Tweeter should only be plugged with the speakers if you have crossovers for the tweeters. If not, then don't bother.

Replace all 4 speakers and under seat subs. Front speakers will be amplifier and rears will be running of the HU.

Crossovers should be
Front Speaker high passed @ 150Hz and above
Under seats low passed @ 150Hz and below

This is a good starting point and then you can tweak according to your taste. With focals, do not go below 125Hz.
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      04-11-2013, 01:40 PM   #373
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You need to hook the connector that goes into and the one that goes out of the amp into each other on the rears.
Then run separate cables from the rear output of the amp to the subs.

It will make more sense when you install it.
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      04-11-2013, 04:04 PM   #374
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Still a bit confused (newbie)!
I have the 5,5m plug and play cable, in this case that I'm not amping the rears, can I still use this cable?
Do I connect the wires from the rear speakers now directly to the HU?
Do I use channel 1&2 for the front speakers and 3&4 for the subs?
I' m asking this because after the instalation the subs sounds like they're not there at all!
This is how it looks now.
Thanks once again!
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