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      05-14-2008, 04:10 PM   #45
BigBanana
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Help!

Can't get the climate control out.

How do you lever the surround off?

Tried using a plastic card which seems to unclip the surround between the radio and the climate, but it won't come loose.

I've now lost a visa card between the radio and climate unit.....


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      05-14-2008, 04:31 PM   #46
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You are trying to pop this connecter.....

Out of this slot.....
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      05-14-2008, 04:49 PM   #47
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OK. Thanks.

I'll have another bash tomorrow.
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      05-15-2008, 06:07 AM   #48
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Finally got it out.

I've bought a THA275 with the 2.5m cable loom and was going to install it between the glove box and its lower trim, as has been suggested.

No way it will fit in there!
It's almost too big for the glove box itself....

There's nothing to attach it to under the steering wheel (RHD) and maybe unsafe there if it drops and jams brake pedal/steering etc.

It'll either have to go in the glove box wrapped in something to stop it rattling about, or I waste the 50 2.5m cable, and spend another 75 for the 5m cable to run it to the boot.

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      05-15-2008, 06:26 AM   #49
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You sure it won't fit??

I can nealry get the 555 amp in there.

Also when you take that trim off you can tuck it behind the carpet in the passenger footwell.


Where did you buy it from?? Can you send it back and get he 5m cable?
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      05-15-2008, 06:27 AM   #50
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Also undo the trim under the steering wheel side, there is more room in there.
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      05-15-2008, 07:47 AM   #51
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No way!

the dark L shape on your picture are ventilation apertures, so they can't be covered.

The maximum depth is about the thickness of the sound deadening material at approx 10-12mm (around half inch). The amp is 42mm deep (1.7 inches) by 160 x 170mm. (6.3 x 6.7 inches).

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The dark rectangle is the horizontal part of the hook which is used to attach the cover. This seems to be the defining depth as it is approx 10mm.

If this wasn't hooked in, the cover would sag and probably could not support the weight of the amp.

Not looking good at the moment...
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      05-15-2008, 08:01 AM   #52
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I would put it up there and attach the front of it and use a cable tie on the back of it, this will keep it up and you would never know.
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      05-15-2008, 10:32 AM   #53
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What a fooking nightmare!

Getting the cable adaptor connected and out of the way for the radio to go back in was difficult.

The amplifier is just sitting behind the floor mat in the passenger footwell at the moment. (Not visible). The glovebox lower cover is just large enough to loose the 2.5m of cable.

If there's space in the boot, then that's where it needs to go. That means fetching a lot more trim off during installation and a 5m cable.

I wouldn't recommend this mod to anyone, and whoever said that was a 10min mod is lying!

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      05-15-2008, 10:39 AM   #54
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It took me 30 minutes start to finish to mount in the boot including photos and hooking up the mains to the battery.
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      05-16-2008, 11:37 AM   #55
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I've read a lot of threads on this subject now. I've had a go at adding the THA275, (see above), and I am wondering if it is a worthwhile exercise or not.

If you don't work in the car industry, repairing or upgrading parts, or don't do this for a hobby, then you don't feel comfortable ripping things off your new car!

It takes an age to experiment which bit you need to pull without something breaking...
Don't want to leave screwdriver marks on parts of the dashboard fascia when you are trying to lever something out.

The electrical connectors have a 'mechanical' locking tab to stop them accidentally coming unconnected. 'Everyone of them' is different so each needs inspecting to see which bit needs pushing or pulling or twisting etc.... to unplug them.

It's likely it's in an awkward position which means it's difficult to see well. Get it wrong and you'll break the catch - which is something I managed to do on one connector....

No job is only going to take 30mins let alone 10.


To improve my basic system, I was going to -

1) Add an amplifier.

2) Replace the drivers in the front doors and add the tweeters in the door mirror covers. This means ripping the complete inner door covers off. Having read someones experience of doing this on another thread, I'm not so keen on doing it myself.

3) Replace the 6.5inch floor subs with 8inch units.

Looking at the other posts, some people say a specific speaker type is suitable, then someone else says it isn't because it won't fit properly!

Could just stick to buying the HiFi versions of each from a BMW dealer. ???
Guessing 800. That's a bloody expensive amp/speaker combo for use in a car.

Virtually everybody says "it is not worth upgrading the rear speakers since the rear channels are frequency limited".


The original front and rear speakers are (rms) rated at 15w each. The THA275 2ch amp is rated 75w per channel. So, can probably get away without blowing the speakers at reasonable listening levels. Pushed into distortion, have no doubt they will blow.

It also means, the front speakers should be set approx 2.5 times louder than the back speakers. Since the 15w output level (volume setting) from the HU has to make the THA275 produce it's 75w.

How do you set the gain control on the THA275 for that?

Set it too low, you've wasted your time and money, since it may only be producing 20W.! Bugger!

Set it too high and the distortion will blow the speakers!! Oh double bugger!!

What's the sound field like in the car with that sort of volume difference front to rear?

I think I've gone off the idea entirely...

Anyone like to buy a slightly used, Blaupunkt THA275 and 2.5m cable suitable for a E90?

Am I giving in too easily?

Anyone else 'had a go'?




The Banana.
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      05-16-2008, 04:26 PM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigBanana View Post
I've read a lot of threads on this subject now. I've had a go at adding the THA275, (see above), and I am wondering if it is a worthwhile exercise or not.

If you don't work in the car industry, repairing or upgrading parts, or don't do this for a hobby, then you don't feel comfortable ripping things off your new car!

It takes an age to experiment which bit you need to pull without something breaking...
Don't want to leave screwdriver marks on parts of the dashboard fascia when you are trying to lever something out.

The electrical connectors have a 'mechanical' locking tab to stop them accidentally coming unconnected. 'Everyone of them' is different so each needs inspecting to see which bit needs pushing or pulling or twisting etc.... to unplug them.

It's likely it's in an awkward position which means it's difficult to see well. Get it wrong and you'll break the catch - which is something I managed to do on one connector....

No job is only going to take 30mins let alone 10.


To improve my basic system, I was going to -

1) Add an amplifier.

2) Replace the drivers in the front doors and add the tweeters in the door mirror covers. This means ripping the complete inner door covers off. Having read someones experience of doing this on another thread, I'm not so keen on doing it myself.

3) Replace the 6.5inch floor subs with 8inch units.

Looking at the other posts, some people say a specific speaker type is suitable, then someone else says it isn't because it won't fit properly!

Could just stick to buying the HiFi versions of each from a BMW dealer. ???
Guessing 800. That's a bloody expensive amp/speaker combo for use in a car.

Virtually everybody says "it is not worth upgrading the rear speakers since the rear channels are frequency limited".
Can't answer the above, if you found it difficult fair enough, I know a few people who have done this now and your are the first that said they found it tricky.



Quote:
Originally Posted by BigBanana View Post
The original front and rear speakers are (rms) rated at 15w each. The THA275 2ch amp is rated 75w per channel. So, can probably get away without blowing the speakers at reasonable listening levels. Pushed into distortion, have no doubt they will blow.

It also means, the front speakers should be set approx 2.5 times louder than the back speakers. Since the 15w output level (volume setting) from the HU has to make the THA275 produce it's 75w.

How do you set the gain control on the THA275 for that?

Set it too low, you've wasted your time and money, since it may only be producing 20W.! Bugger!

Set it too high and the distortion will blow the speakers!! Oh double bugger!!

What's the sound field like in the car with that sort of volume difference front to rear?
I don't think you understand how amps and speakers work.

An amp has an input sensitivity not a gain. You are matching the output level from the head unit to the input sensitivity of the amp. Once this is matched the front and rear channels should be the same when the fader is set to 0.
The head unit outputs at 8v so you want the gain on -0, so as far left as it goes.

Wattage will give you more volume but it is not a multiple, it will be the same volume once the gain is set correct as the factory head unit, but it is not about volume it is more about headroom, you want to be able to get to the level you want without distortion, which starts to sound harsh and can cause damage.

You will find you can get to twice the volume easily without any distortion, it also doesn't actually sound as loud, but it fills the cabin and and has a wonderfully open sound stage, instruments are well separated, highs are clearer, bass hits harder and all round it just sounds better.
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      05-17-2008, 12:46 AM   #57
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Does anyone have pictures of THA275 install under the glovebox.

Also, can anyone confirm that a separate power lead to the battery is not required by the THA275
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      05-17-2008, 03:08 AM   #58
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I am trying to find the pics of the guy who fitted it under there, but it was a german forum and I stumbled across it while searching for info on the amps and didn't save it.

You don't need to run a seperate power lead, it will give you a little more control at higher volume, but will run fine without it.
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      05-17-2008, 05:44 AM   #59
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Quote:

I don't think you understand how amps and speakers work.

An amp has an input sensitivity not a gain. You are matching the output level from the head unit to the input sensitivity of the amp. Once this is matched the front and rear channels should be the same when the fader is set to 0.
The head unit outputs at 8v so you want the gain on -0, so as far left as it goes.

Wattage will give you more volume but it is not a multiple, it will be the same volume once the gain is set correct as the factory head unit, but it is not about volume it is more about headroom, you want to be able to get to the level you want without distortion, which starts to sound harsh and can cause damage.

You will find you can get to twice the volume easily without any distortion, it also doesn't actually sound as loud, but it fills the cabin and and has a wonderfully open sound stage, instruments are well separated, highs are clearer, bass hits harder and all round it just sounds better.

Ha ha ha ha ha...........

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      05-17-2008, 06:04 AM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigBanana View Post
Ha ha ha ha ha...........

Why don't you try and be a bit more polite and write out a proper repsonse, I have taken the time to give detailed instructions including lots of rezizing and hosting of images to help people on here and tried to explain that you need to match the input sensitivity of the amp to the output voltage of the head unit and and all you can do is repsond like that??

You my friend are an ignorant cnut!!
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      05-17-2008, 06:14 AM   #61
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You obviously undersatnd about amps and stuff and wattage vs db gain, but it just seemed that from your post you didn't, if you understand it so well then why ask questions like that?

I have never blown a speaker with too much power, cause you never need to drive it to the levels where distortion kicks in. I have seen loads of speakers blown with underated amps though because they are clipping by the time they get to the level the listener wants them to be.


I haven't actually got a clue where you are coming from on this with your replies??
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      05-17-2008, 07:11 AM   #62
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Sorry......

I just took umbridge about the 'not understand how amps and speakers work.' comment.

And thanks. You have been helpful with the pickies and info.

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      05-17-2008, 08:17 AM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by poggy View Post
Does anyone have pictures of THA275 install under the glovebox.

Also, can anyone confirm that a separate power lead to the battery is not required by the THA275
I can confirm, there is no need to run separate power cable if you use the PnP loom.

See my 'under- glovebox installation' - below ...

Now you see it-
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Now you don't...

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It may be better screwed to the underside of the glovebox, on the lhs, but this would obstruct an optical connector access point. I've no idea what it's for though. Mounted in the centre of the glovebox cover is the bluetooth antenna. Probably need to keep clear of that.
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      05-21-2008, 06:22 AM   #64
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How much did you pay for the Amp? You wrote earlier in this thread "Amp 120-150"? Because here in Sweden the THA-555 costs about 300!!!
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      05-21-2008, 11:19 AM   #65
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THA275 costs 180 including specific 2.5m connection cable kit for BMW.

Since my install, on two occasions now, the sound from the front speakers and the right rear has gone off. (At the same time)

On the first occasion, I switched the radio off for a few minutes and back on again. It recovered. I did not get chance to look at the THA unit.

Second occasion, I did manage to check the THA and the green light had gone off.

It recovered when car the ignition was switched off and back on again.

On neither occasion was the volume level high.

I will have to take the radio out again and check the connectors are fully home.

Then if it happens again, it'll be for sale. But I don't suppose there will be many takers....
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      05-21-2008, 11:56 AM   #66
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Bigbannana,

Did you get a chance to see (feel?) if the THA was overly warm?
Could it have been thermal protection shutting the amp down - I understand why you've done it, but having the amp sandwiched between what is essentially two bits of carpet can't be doing much for its cooling?

I used to come across this when friends woud install amps upside down onto parcel/stealth shelves, not realising the heat sinks of their amps wouldn't work upside down.

It;s such a shame you've had anightmare from beginning to end with this 'upgrade' (I'll surround the word in inverted commas, so as not to offend!)

Selfishly I'm hoping you've just got a duff amplifier, or the currently less than ideal is adversly affecting it, because I really want the 5 channel/component upgrade/Earthquake sub upgrade to sound as good as I hope it will, yet be as reliable as a factory install.

Think I need to get together with Gizee and take him up on his offer of a listen...
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