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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > DIY Guides > EAS Carbon Fiber Interior Trim Installation



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Mr. 5's Avatar EAS Carbon Fiber Interior Trim Installation
Mr. 5
04-27-2008
EAS Carbon Fiber Trim Installation Guide

Tools Needed:

1 Thin Flat Head Screwdriver
T10 Torx Wrench
8mm Wrench
Needle Nose Pliers (For transferring clips and Plugs)
Masking Tape (For...
  #22  
By O HELLA BMW on 12-08-2010, 11:27 AM
Will this diy be the same on a 08 e93 vert?
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  #23  
By O HELLA BMW on 12-08-2010, 05:10 PM
What did you use these two tools for?

T10 Torx Wrench
8mm Wrench
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  #24  
By O HELLA BMW on 12-09-2010, 06:11 PM
First off nice diy!

But how the h e l l did you plug that one top plug behind the center vents???there's 2 plugs behind the lock/unlock ,dtc and hazard lights correct. The bottom plug I plugged in no problem but the bigger plug on top I just can't install that back in!!!
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  #25  
By E90jonno on 12-30-2010, 06:11 AM
Nice going to give this ago next weekend
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  #26  
By NYCMCBM3 on 02-04-2011, 12:16 AM
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looks great bro
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  #27  
By morfinx on 02-15-2011, 05:31 PM
Hey guys, for this part:

Quote:
Make sure that nothing is in your cubby, and the ashtray/sunglass holder is empty.

Remove the shifter boot by pulling the knob straight up. Once the knob is loose then unclip the leather from the center console.
Could I not pull the center console trim up without having the pull the shift knob off? I heard it's a PITA to pull off.
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  #28  
By tr_horn on 04-17-2011, 07:37 PM
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Just did this with High Gloss Black trim today on an LCI e90 with IDrive. Great instructions - thank you.

A couple of observations/comments for folks interested in doing interior trim swaps:

- The one place I differed with what was done was the center console. I don't think removal of the wiring to the hazards/DTC(DSC?) is necessary. If you work from the bottom of the venting units with a moulding removal or small flathead screwdriver, and slightly push up (same basic motion as when you take off any of the trim), the vents come out quite easily. It took me a half hour to figure this out

- one can have a tendency to want to put things back quickly - I know I did - and twice found small parts that needed to go back on the trim - so take your time

- I like the beer idea - give yourself a nice long afternoon to do this and maybe a cold one as a break. It didn't take that long for me, but the clips in many cases are tiny (I have a theory that all short people with tiny hands work at BMW/Mercedes/Audi/VW/Porsche putting together these pieces - hence we only see tall Germans) and it's easy to get frustrated.

- I ended up using a trim removal kit (do a search on Amazon) and I like the plastic putty knife idea too. The flathead screwdriver does work, but there's just something about sharp metal around leather and hard plastic that I wanted to avoid
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  #29  
By Never-Enough on 05-04-2011, 10:38 AM
Looks great
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  #30  
By GIANNIS325 on 05-21-2011, 12:46 AM
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i did it

i did it and it was very easy!!!Thanks a lot
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  #31  
By nitehawk on 05-31-2011, 10:38 AM
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TY

Thank You OP! I will give this a try soon
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  #32  
By 0311_grunt on 06-03-2011, 10:00 PM
Thanks man! Literally took me 45 min and no broken parts vice multiple hours and new parts. Off to the paint shop for high gloss black! Excellent DIY
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  #33  
By raychak on 06-17-2011, 12:46 AM
Thanks for the guide! I just done the jobs today!

- Removing the "Hazard" button wiring plug is the most difficult part.
- Air vent is little bit hard to remove from the trim too, unless you have more than 2 hands.
- Note to E92/E93 owner, the rear trim with air vent has a wiring plug, don't pull the trim too hard as the length of wiring is tight.
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  #34  
By SaviorXi on 06-18-2011, 07:35 AM
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I removed my trim last night and I recognized a way that may help people re-connect the Hazzard wires when reinstalling. The entire module comes out. Here are some pics. I used a flathead screwdriver on the metal clamps. That trim is in tight as hell. Thank god I had a buddy help pull as I pryed.




Hope this helps
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  #35  
By Peertwelve on 06-30-2011, 03:40 PM
I just followed this DIY to swap Dark Burl wood trim to Glacier Silver in my '08 335 E90. The hardest part was trying to disconnect the wiring behind the center dash trim. I unbolted the two 8mm bolts on either side of the center air vent and detached it from the old trim. After disconnecting the Start/Stop button i was able to remove the old trim, leaving the center air vent attached to it's two wiring connectors. This was much easier than disconnecting/reconnecting the wiring after the new trim was installed. Instead i put the Start Button and passenger-side air vent on the aluminum trim, and then snapped the center air / DTC/ Hazard light assembly to the new trim as i put it on the car. the DIY steps are great. thanks for providing this
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  #36  
By djsniggedy on 09-06-2011, 02:18 PM
thank you for this thread! Just finished doing the cf wrap on my car. The only pain in the ass on my car was removing the center vent. a piece of advice is that you can remove the lock/dsc/hazard switchbox from that vent and that makes plugging it back in much easier. not sure how people did it any other way. Being careful not snap any clips on the center vent is a pain in the ass, but everything snaps right in on the replacement round. just removing it is a pain. thanks!!!
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  #37  
By zapingosays on 09-08-2011, 10:56 PM
not what i was looking for... but it i learned how to change my old vents that broke for new ones!!! but i have to buy them -_-
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  #38  
By AndreyT on 10-25-2011, 08:03 PM
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There's a [potentially major] problem with this writeup, concerning the removal of the "long" piece of dashboard trim. I can't speak for all model years, but what I say below certainly applies to my 2011 e90.

The removal of this piece of trim should start as described in the write up: by pulling the left-hand end of the trim. Almost all pegs that hold this piece of trim in place are held by friction, so all you need to do is just pull it away from the dash. However, the very rightmost peg (closest to the passenger door) is different. It is held in place by a metal clip (attached to the dashboard) that has two metal flaps that "bite" into that last peg. When you attempt to pull the trim away you are working against these metal flaps. Don't do it!

Yes, it is possible to successfully remove this piece of trim by "brute force" pulling. If you apply considerable force, the flaps will "shave" some amount of material from the rightmost peg and eventually release it. However, you risk damage to the trim as well as to that metal clip on the right end and to the surrounding dash material. Instead of force-pulling that last clip, you are supposed to disengage it.

The proper removal sequence is as follows:

1) Start pulling the trim on the left-hand side (as described in the writeup)
2) Proceed from left to right: continue to pull out the pegs one after another. You will notice that all pegs pull out rather easily, yet the rightmost end of the trim refuses to pull out. Don't force it.
3) Once all the pegs except the rightmost one are free, shift the entire piece of trim to the left. This will disengage the last peg from the metal flaps that were "biting" into it
4) Move the trim away. After the previous step (i.e. when the last peg is disengaged) that should not require any force at all
Last edited by AndreyT; 10-30-2011 at 01:43 AM.
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  #39  
By ramirez330i on 01-11-2012, 11:27 PM
can you remove the center console piece the same way if you have i-drive?? whats the best to go about it with that idrive knob instead of the little bucket thing?
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  #40  
By Arrow on 01-14-2012, 02:38 PM
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Fantastic guide - just what I was looking for!

Quick question - is it necessary or recommended to disconnect the battery before removing any of the wiring plugs - start button/cigarette lighter etc?
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  #41  
By kva on 02-02-2012, 07:13 PM
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awesome diy, thank you.
Last edited by kva; 02-02-2012 at 07:13 PM. Reason: ratings
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  #42  
By noovis on 05-14-2012, 03:42 PM
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Hi guys,

I'm about to remove trims but there are few points I'm not sure about:
-how about automatic transmission? the knob lifts up along with the trim.
-do i need to unplug the battery?
-any pics of how to remove the rear console in e92?

thanks!
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  #43  
By cmyk on 05-25-2012, 02:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by noovis View Post
Hi guys,

I'm about to remove trims but there are few points I'm not sure about:
-how about automatic transmission? the knob lifts up along with the trim.
-do i need to unplug the battery?
-any pics of how to remove the rear console in e92?

thanks!
Just did this today so I can answer some of these.
AT is identical. The shifter knob pulls off pretty easily. Bentley Service Manual states up to 90lbs of force may be necessary, but don't use a "steady" pull. It's more like one quick solid jerk (that's what she said, sorry). Comes off pretty easily. I'm a girl and I did it in 2 tries

No, you don't need to unplug the battery.

I don't have a coupe but the Bentley Service Manual has detailed photos of e92 rear console removal. Looks like you take the rear seat cushions out, then footwell lights, and everything looks pretty self-explanatory from there.

OP, thanks for the awesome DIY I wouldn't touch my trim w/ a screwdriver, so I got an interior trim tool from Harbor Freight. Quick and easy. Awesome writeup! Took me 30 minutes to do this (plus some extra time getting the center vents and ashtray lid off. Those were kind of a PITA).

I found lots of interesting German stickers under my trim pieces, lol.
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