[satz]

I'm sure I've seen this discussed before, but couldn't find it when I searched.

Autobarn is having a sale this weekend on engine oil, so thought I would get the oil from there rather than dealership.

According to dealer spares they use 6.5 L of BMW Twin Turbo LL01 5W30LL 01 oil, made by Shell.

What's the "real world" equivalent Shell and can I get this in shops like Autobarn?

cheers

[satz]

Just spoke to Shell (now looked after by some other distributor).

They recommend the Helix Ultra 5w40 long life oil. Available from retailers in 1 and 5 litre bottles.

Apparently it's okay to use the 40 weight rather than 30 weight, as the cold-start rating (5w) is the same in both.

Anyone else using the above oil? Does it last as long as the dealership's oil?

cheers

[bradsm87]

I use Nulon 0w-40. It's the lowest cost Group IV synthetic oil on the market. 0w-40 is excellent for quick lubrication on start-up and while warming up, where most of the wear takes place.

[vtl]

I've always used 5W40, little thicker so should provide a stronger film strength. All oils listed below are BMW LL01 approved. I'm currently using Motul 8100

The dealer stuff is all group III and nothing special. Any LL01 synthetic (5W30 and 5W40) from supercheap will work the same.

Normal oils (Group III):
Castrol Edge Titanium 5W-40 - Good value especially on sale ($30 for 5L on sae)
Penrite 5W-40 usually cheaper than Castrol when Castrol is not on sale (not usually discounted much, usually around $55 for 5L)

Better oils (suitable for cars that are driven very hard)
Motul 8100 exess 5W40 (Group IV) - Can be had for around $70-$90 for 5L. Sparesbox and Autobarn stock it
Redline 5W40 (Group V) - One of the best oils you can buy for your car but costs a lot and have to order it online

Personally I think Castrol is the best value for money for a car that's driven on the street and the oil is changed regularly (<10K intervals). If you track your car then look at some of the more expensive oils.

[MJ80.]

I was chasing the motul 8100 for my last change but just didnt have enough time before my service. I grabbed the penrite 10 tenths 0w40 instead. Apparently an extremely high grade of oil for a reasonable cost. Comes very highly reccomended.

[Ken Oath]

Originally Posted by satz

Just spoke to Shell (now looked after by some other distributor).

They recommend the Helix Ultra 5w40 long life oil.

Good oil, keep using it. Has excellent base stock and additive package.

[Mayuri Krab]

I always used Penrite HPR 5, does the job for me.

[Digitalism]

I think more frequent and regular oil changes are more important than what type of oil. In saying that though any of the approved oils should suffice.

[RacePace]

Originally Posted by Ken Oath

Good oil, keep using it. Has excellent base stock and additive package.

Hey Ken,
On your chart are higher values better or worse?

[Ken Oath]

The first number provides the ease of pumping at cold temperatures.

The higher the number at startup will cause higher viscous drag and higher fuel consumption until the oil has warmed and the viscosity has lowered.

As BMW TIS states, where outside temperatures regularly fall below -20°C they recommend 0W instead of 5W.

[RacePace]

Ah I see. So going off those values Shell would be the best in sub 20 degree temperature.

Also if that's what BMW recommend 5w is all that's needed for us here in Aus...

I would of thought that the Nulon would of performed better as its a group 4 oil?

[Ken Oath]

Nulon 0W-40 and Shell Helix 5W-40 both have a VI 179.
Nulon is a PAO and the Shell is hydrocracked GTL.

Shell Helix 5W-40 has HTHS 3.68
Both oils meet LL-01.

5W is all that is required for:

• Where I live
• The type of vehicle I drive
• How the vehicle is driven (easy, fast, slow)
• What the daily drive is like (short trip, long trip, city, highway?)

Remember there is 'No Best Oil'.
Importantly follow the manufacturers recommendations: LL-01, LL04, LL-01 FE, LL-98 etc.
UOA's should be used to determine how the oil you have chosen is performing.
And just to provide a contradictory example, I use an oil which does not have BMW (LL-04) specification. The oil exceeds the BMW specification but has not been submitted for approval.
A lot of oils (one brand previously mentioned in this thread) are submitted for approval testing and then any subsequent refined oils using the same formula with additional additive package’s etc. are labeled by the manufacturer of meeting the specification but never submitted for testing.

[RacePace]

hey Ken,
Yes I always look for BMW LL01 to begin with. Please correct me if im wrong but PAO based oils are better then hydrocracked as hydrocracked oils aren't pure synthetic or are group 3 oils that have been passed of as a group 4???

I cant recall where I read this..

[Ken Oath]

Rather than mineral vs synthetic it is more considered to compare all the components including additive package, VII, friction modifiers, anti wear agents and not excluding the previously posted variables.

There are some very good oils which have Group II, III & VI base stock that return better UOA's than Group IV.

Labeling requirements are also not tightly regulated or monitored and Germany is the only country which has regulatory control of the word synthetic. Marketing provides a big influence in how people choose their oils. Not so long ago a brand represented in this thread had a poor image and used to do all sort of marketing ploys. Draining the oil of a Holden Commodore and pouring in a can of their Teflon product and then driving from Sydney to Melbourne was a classic example.

So keep monitoring UOA's, run a gas Chromatogram or forget about it and enjoy the driving pleasure.