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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > DIY Guides > 335i - change spark plugs after 16000 miles



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      10-03-2011, 07:22 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timn View Post
The ECS tool didn't have a magnet on it, so I had to use needle nose pliers to get the spark plug out after I unscrewed it.

After changing my 46k miles spark plugs, I noticed right away that the engine ran smoother and quite a bit less backfire, too!
Thought i'd correct this. The ECS socket is magnetized and I was able to remove the spark plugs with the socket itself.
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      10-04-2011, 09:56 AM   #46
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Here is what my spark plugs looked like after 61,000 miles. No tunes except for a SSTT for a couple thousand miles. Just upgraded to a JB3 and figured I better change them. Don't look to different than the ones by the OP at 16,000 miles. Sorry for the crappy iPhone pics.
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      10-15-2011, 12:50 PM   #47
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Piece of crap Schwaben socket doesn't fit! Need to go buy another.
Means putting car back together and getting engine warm. DAMN
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      10-15-2011, 01:04 PM   #48
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You need #6 sledge for 335. #4 is for 328's.


Quote:
Originally Posted by swin500 View Post
I just grabbed mine with vise grips and pulled them out. Then I tapped them back in with 4# sledge. Car is running strangely.
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      10-25-2011, 01:48 PM   #49
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Arrow 135i Spark Plug replacement DIY...

Spark Plug replacemnt on my 135i N54...

http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showt...8#post10678498



Spark plug socket - Hazet #4766-2
(14mm 12pt 3/8 drive) 25 euros

3/8 drive extension 30cm long
Torque wrench (low strength) 23 NM(!)
Hex wrench 5 mm
Magnetic telescopic pickup
8mm drive (cowl cover)

6 spark plugs BMW 12 12 0 037 244
BOSCH ZGR6STE2


The spark plugs should be changed every 45K miles. IF your car is still under warranty BMW NA will change them for you. I live in Germany though, and here we must pay for ALL services. Nothing is free in Germany, except the autobahns(at least for now)!! lol

I decided to buy my spark plugs from BMW, mainly because I have read that some members have had misfire issues with equivalent BOSCH plugs. The spark plugs say BMW/BOSCH on them. BMW list price is 17 euros each, I paid 13 euros from my friends at my BMW Zentrum.

The spark plugs need to be torque to 23Nm. I bought a low spec 3/8s torque wrench from Gedore: 5 50Nm specs. Install them dry without any anti seize. Also install them with a cold engine.

Here are some of my DIY photos. More can be found in my thread link above.


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      11-24-2011, 01:39 AM   #50
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If your torque wrench is 1/2" drive, is it OK to use an 1/2" -> 3/8" adapter on it, to get the socket to fit, or will that mess up the torque readings?

Last edited by Lotus99; 11-24-2011 at 02:09 AM.
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      12-29-2011, 12:11 AM   #51
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i took out the old plugs and put new ones in and still having a misfire in certain cylinders. Some one had mentioned to me that they may need to be gapped... does anyone know what that may be and if it needs it?
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      12-29-2011, 10:55 PM   #52
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changing plugs on 2006 bmw 325i

i read the above posts,and i would like to change my plugs,but what and where is the cowling and microfilter?
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      12-29-2011, 11:00 PM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adam90z View Post
i read the above posts,and i would like to change my plugs,but what and where is the cowling and microfilter?
It's the big black piece of plastic that spans the engine bay, near the base of the windshield and under the hood. Same thing you need to remove to install a procede (gaining access to the ECU)...
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      01-02-2012, 06:51 PM   #54
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Great DIY, just used.
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      01-04-2012, 10:32 PM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by POW_MIA View Post
i took out the old plugs and put new ones in and still having a misfire in certain cylinders. Some one had mentioned to me that they may need to be gapped... does anyone know what that may be and if it needs it?
Yes according to the Bentley Manual. 2007-2008 N54 engine Bosch ZGR6STE2 plugs should have a .028 inch gap.
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      01-07-2012, 04:53 AM   #56
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Something just HAS to go wrong...

As I was putting on the engine cover I heard something drop and panicked thinking it was the bolt but I was clearly holding it in my hand... then I realized it was the 5mm head. Stupid weak magnet.

Anyways, for those who read these DIY agonizingly for every detail, the two things that had me most antsy were flipping up the coil top and taking the coil out

Use a screw driver to pry it up using however much force is necessary, it'll sorta "click" and move a millimeter then it takes no effort to swing it open.

When you get the coil to come out it sorta feels like it was held in under vacuum. Just put the handle of your socket wrench through, grab evenly on both sides and pull evenly. Nothing will happen, so increase pull strength and it'll start to slowly "unglue" and then pop out.
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      01-09-2012, 10:24 PM   #57
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nice

nice diy
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      01-31-2012, 11:57 PM   #58
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Hey guys how do you determine what cylinder is which? is the closest to firewall 6 and closest to front bumper 1?
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      02-01-2012, 07:56 AM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by E92murdered View Post
Hey guys how do you determine what cylinder is which? is the closest to firewall 6 and closest to front bumper 1?

Yes, that is correct. Cylinder #1 is up front by the headlight.
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      02-01-2012, 11:17 AM   #60
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I just recently changed mine last weekend. It was simple and straightforward. I bought the Bosch plugs and it runs great, no misfires to speak of. I also used the Schwaben socket, which works great after you knock the magnet out.
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      02-01-2012, 02:28 PM   #61
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Thank you!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dackelone View Post
Yes, that is correct. Cylinder #1 is up front by the headlight.
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      02-01-2012, 07:39 PM   #62
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What about coding the plugs? I haven't seen one reply mentioning this, but have seen on other threads that coding plugs is absolutely necessary...

Can someone confirm?
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      02-01-2012, 10:01 PM   #63
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You need to program injectors... Don't think that's true of the spark plugs.
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      02-01-2012, 10:37 PM   #64
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Great post! Did my change with no problems besides breaking the plastic part of the solenoid when trying to pry the boot off.
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      02-02-2012, 12:32 AM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by samdaman View Post
Great post! Did my change with no problems besides breaking the plastic part of the solenoid when trying to pry the boot off.

That is why you must pull out the coil packs - slowly. I used the wiggle method, because I was affriad of the coils breaking when pulling straight up - all of a sudden. That is also why I used a 1/2 inch ratchet extension for added leverage - while pulling out the coils.
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      02-03-2012, 01:18 PM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dackelone View Post
That is why you must pull out the coil packs - slowly. I used the wiggle method, because I was affriad of the coils breaking when pulling straight up - all of a sudden.

That is also why I used a 1/2 inch ratchet extension for added leverage - while pulling out the coils.
Can you elaborate?
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