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      06-19-2016, 02:10 PM   #1
mweisdorfer
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335i Oil Pan Gasket

To All:

I just did my oil pan gasket : Here is my DIY

If you have a 335i –

You Will Need :
- 4 cans of brake cleaner
- Lots of paper towel
- Maybe pig mats
- Steel wool
- Emery cloth
- Kroil Oil
- New oil pan gasket
- New oil pan bolts
- New oil level sensor gasket
- Torx and e torx sockets
- Metric socket sets in a variety of sizes & drives
- drive, 3/8 drive and drive "thin" ratchets
- Really Small & Large torque wrench
- Metric wrench set.
- Lots of swivels and extensions ranging from ” to 6” in length
- A friend to help you mount the oil pan back into place
- 7.5 qts of oil and a new filter
- A weekend free of distractions
- Lots of patience.

Steps I took:

1) Remove the upper tray, which holds the cabin air filter
2) Remove the valve cover, plastic cover
3) Grind your tow hook down with a grinder so it will screw in all the way in the screw hole located near the oil filter housing assembly.
4) Screw in the tow hook
5) Draw a picture of the drive belt and pulleys
6) Set up engine support bar on the tow hook
7) Loosen up lug nuts on both front wheels
8) Put the car on 4 jack stands and remove front wheels; try and put it up at least 5 clicks up on your jack stands.
9) Remove the Belly pan and Transmission Pan
10) Remove the fan
11) Remove the drive belt with e60 torx socket & 18" power bar
12) Drain the oil and replace the filter
13) Unbolt the radiator pipe from the front of the subframe
14) Unbolt the power steering pump from the oil pan
15) Unbolt the transmission cooler lines from the oil pan in two places
16) Unbolt & unplug the headlight level sensor from the control arm on the drivers side.
17) Unbolt the sway bar from the subframe
18) Unbolt the power steering rack from the subframe
19) Place 2x4's under each disc brake
20) Unbolt the front struts
21) Wire or Hook the struts up so they just don’t hang there loose
22) Undo the brake lines from the strut assembly
23) Unbolt the black cross bar at its 4 outer bolts & loosen up the two center bolts.
24) Place a jack under the subframe where the jack point is
25) Unbolt the subframe with 18" socket and e torx socket; (6) 18" bolts and (4) e torx bolts
26) SLOWLY lower the subframe down and remove the jack.
27) Unbolt the 3 horizontal bolts located in the bell housing of the flywheel that holds the rear main seal. They bolt this housing to the oil pan to the rear main seal. There are 3 of them. 2 of them hold a clip that holds the O2 sensors wiring harness and oil level sensor wire. One of them is north of the clip I described above on the drivers side, and is sort of hard to get to.

28) Unclip the oil level sensor

29) Unbolt the many, many bolts that hold the oil pan to the engine and remove the oil plan.
30) Remove the Oil Level Sensor and gasket
31) Clean up the oil pan; use a brass brush and emery cloth or steel wool.
32) Make sure the area where the new gasket(s) will be is smooth as silk.
33) Use Glycerin on the flat gasket area before putting on the new gaskets
34) Re-install the oil level sensor with a new gasket.
35) Place the oil pan gasket on and zip tie it on with at least 2 zip ties (loosely)
36) Clean up the gasket area on the engine with paper towel and brake cleaner. plus steel wool.
37) Clean up the bottom, part of the engine (subframe) with brake cleaner and paper towel.
38) Install the pan with maybe 8 bolts hand tight (snug); maybe 4 in the center and 2 on each corner.
39) Carefully snip and remove the zip ties.
40) Rebolt to hand tight the horizontal bolts on the bell housing that essentially bolt the pan to the rear main seal and hold the clip for the post-cat O2 sensors.
41) Install the rest of the oil pan bolts hand tight or snug
42) Starting at the center, cross work and tighten down with a small torque wrench to 8nm plus 90degrees and the large bolts, on the south end of the pan, to 8nm and 180 degrees; don’t forget the 3 horizontal bolts (they are reuseable).
43) Put the rest of the car back together using the suggested torque setting on the subframe and what not (A Bentley Repair Manual does Help) - DONT put the belly pan and transmission pan on yet.
44) Put new oil in; it may take you 7 1/2 qts of oil because you literally drained all the oil out of the engine.
42) Start the engine up and let run for 10 min. Check for leaks.
43) If all good, clean up the belly & trans pan with brake cleaner and good old fashioned soap and water and some elbow grease and reinstall
44) Get the car off jack stands and drive. Then re-check.

Also, consider other items that are old that might need to be proactively changed while your in there, like O2 sensors. They are really easy to get to once the subframe is dropped. If your over 100k or near it, change them.

The following DIY's helped guide me:

http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...et-replacement

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1180020

One is on an n52 motor and one is on an n54 motor

Last edited by mweisdorfer; 06-19-2016 at 02:42 PM.
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      08-21-2016, 08:45 AM   #2
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Great write up. Any reason why you didn't use any sealant for the gasket?
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      08-21-2016, 10:28 AM   #3
mweisdorfer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seccsc
Great write up. Any reason why you didn't use any sealant for the gasket?
The original gasket lasted maybe 123,000 miles. So, I figured the way BMW put the gasket on originally was good enough for me, which was without an additional sealant like ultra black permatex gasket maker.

On the valve cover gasket DIY, yes absolutely I would use gasket sealer on the edge of the west side of the cylinder head as you face the car. This is because the engine tilts and thus the oil gathers at this side of the valve cover.

On the oil pan gasket, it's fairly level front to back and side to side. Also, the oil doesn't gather or sit where the engine meets the oil pan. So, really no need.

I don't plan on keeping the car till it hits 250,000. If it do, it will be a while, before I have to change it again. I only drive 15k year.
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      08-21-2016, 09:51 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mweisdorfer
Quote:
Originally Posted by seccsc
Great write up. Any reason why you didn't use any sealant for the gasket?
The original gasket lasted maybe 123,000 miles. So, I figured the way BMW put the gasket on originally was good enough for me, which was without an additional sealant like ultra black permatex gasket maker.

On the valve cover gasket DIY, yes absolutely I would use gasket sealer on the edge of the west side of the cylinder head as you face the car. This is because the engine tilts and thus the oil gathers at this side of the valve cover.

On the oil pan gasket, it's fairly level front to back and side to side. Also, the oil doesn't gather or sit where the engine meets the oil pan. So, really no need.

I don't plan on keeping the car till it hits 250,000. If it do, it will be a while, before I have to change it again. I only drive 15k year.
Got it. Thank you for the input.
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      08-30-2016, 07:48 PM   #5
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Getting first Oil pan gasket changed out this week. First one lasted 88k. I am wondering how often these need to be changed... Maybe every 70-90k?
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      08-30-2016, 08:39 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gohan335i7
Getting first Oil pan gasket changed out this week. First one lasted 88k. I am wondering how often these need to be changed... Maybe every 70-90k?
Mine lasted 125k.

I just did the valve cover gasket this weekend. This is number 3, for that one. The 2nd one was done by an independent shop that specialized in European Autos a few years back. It only lasted 40k or so. Not good. So, so I used a new gasket and put a bead of gasket sealer on top of the gasket.

I don't really think you have to use additional gasket sealer for the oil pan gasket. The pan is very level. The valve cover gasket tilts to the left as you face the car. So, the oil pools on the west side of the gasket and then you eventually develop a leak.
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      08-31-2016, 09:01 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mweisdorfer
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gohan335i7
Getting first Oil pan gasket changed out this week. First one lasted 88k. I am wondering how often these need to be changed... Maybe every 70-90k?
Mine lasted 125k.

I just did the valve cover gasket this weekend. This is number 3, for that one. The 2nd one was done by an independent shop that specialized in European Autos a few years back. It only lasted 40k or so. Not good. So, so I used a new gasket and put a bead of gasket sealer on top of the gasket.

I don't really think you have to use additional gasket sealer for the oil pan gasket. The pan is very level. The valve cover gasket tilts to the left as you face the car. So, the oil pools on the west side of the gasket and then you eventually develop a leak.
IMHO based in my experience with this car(10years), the stark differences in mileage between cars when the gasket leaks, and when I'm replacing the car, I will be using sealant on the gasket. That will most likely ensure another 100k before I start having issues again.
Cheers!
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      09-02-2016, 02:59 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seccsc View Post
IMHO based in my experience with this car(10years), the stark differences in mileage between cars when the gasket leaks, and when I'm replacing the car, I will be using sealant on the gasket. That will most likely ensure another 100k before I start having issues again.
Cheers!
I just had my oil pan gasket replaced as well. I then read this post. I hope I get more than $40K from this new gasket....
I don't want to go through this expense again.
Good write up by the OP as well.
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      09-02-2016, 08:27 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M109Rider View Post
I just had my oil pan gasket replaced as well. I then read this post. I hope I get more than $40K from this new gasket....
I don't want to go through this expense again.
Good write up by the OP as well.
If they did it right,and used OEM gasket, it should last 100-125k in all likelyhood.

Its been my experience most, if not all the major gaskets on a bmw last about 90 to 125k on average.

1) Rear main seal
2) Oil pan gasket
3) Oil Filter Housing gasket
4) Megatronic Sleeve
5) Valve Cover Gasket
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      09-21-2016, 01:00 AM   #10
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I did this repair and added a thin layer of sealant for good measure- I never ever want to revisit the repair. I used sealant that does not harden.
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