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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
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H&R Springs Install DIY (finally)
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H&R Springs Install DIY (finally)
Published by larryn
03-18-2006 |
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#2
By
larryn
on
03-18-2006, 05:37 PM
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Step 4:
Using a 19mm socket (deep, if possible), remove the nut that holds the shock to the lower control arm strut. You can step on the brake brake rotor and push down with your foot, which will free the shock. The assembly cannot fall to the ground, but keep an eye on the brake sensor and the brake lines. |
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#3
By
larryn
on
03-18-2006, 05:39 PM
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Step 5:
You should have your jack free to use, since you have the car on jackstands. Place the jack under where the spring seats into the lower control arm, and snug it up, but do not jack so it raises the wheel assembly. Step 6: On the Driver's side, you'll have to loosen a couple of exhaust mounts, to get the bolt out. Also, there is a tip sensor there, that you'll also need to remove (13mm) prior to removing the control arm mounting bolt. These are obvious as to how to remove them. You can now remove the inboard bolt that holds the lower swingarm on, with a 21mm socket wrench. Mark both washers and the bolt head with a sharpie so they can be aligned again when placing it back in (the bolt has an offset flange/washer on it). Once the bolt is loose, tap it out. I used a 1/4" drive socket extension. Once the bolt is removed, you can lower the jack slowly and remove the jack. You can now remove the spring. Take note of how the lower rubber spring seat sits in the control arm. |
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#4
By
larryn
on
03-18-2006, 05:41 PM
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Step 7:
Take the rubber spring seats off of the old spring, and place them on the new rear H&R spring. The rear ones are marked with an (R). Make sure you put them on correctly. You'll notice the springs are similar to the stock sport springs, but about and inch shorter. The H&R springs are rightside up, if the writing is also rightside up. Then slide the spring back into place, making sure the rubber seats remain in place, and you put the lower spring seat correctly in the control arm, as I mentioned in Step 6. Step 8: Place the jack back under the control arm and jack it up enough to get the bolt (that you removed in step 6) started back in the control arm mount. You'll notice that the control arm is twisted, adn you can't get it to come out the other side. Thanks ok. Lower the jack, and place the block of wood on the jack so you can align the other side of the control arm mount. Tap the bolt in the rest of the way, and tighten. You'll need to use the guide marks that you made with the sharpie to get the bolt/washer aligned. If you are working on the driver's side remount the tip sensor, and replace the exhaust nuts you removed a the beginning of step 6. Step 9: You can now replace the nut on the bottom of the shock absorber, and the end link nut back onto the swaybar. You'll need to hold the bolt with channel locks again. Do the other side repeating all of these steps. Then mount your tires, jack up the back, remove the jack stands, and lower the car on each side. You'll notice the car is pretty high. It settles once the car is moved, and you will notice the height difference. I mounted my track wheels, because that's the reason I'm installing the springs to begin with.  |
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#5
By
larryn
on
03-18-2006, 05:42 PM
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OK, lets start the front ones now! You're halfway home. Very important! Open your favorite beer now, and admire the rear of the car.
Most cars allow for the brake rotor to swing free when you loosen the upper shock mounts. The E90 does not. You'll have to compress the spring while it's still on the car. Don't worry though. If you do it right, it's pretty easy. Step 10 Open your hood. Jack up the car, using the BACK jacking point! Once you've raised the car all the way, you can put the jack stand under the front jacking point and remove the jack. On the other side, you'll need to jack the car from the control arm in front, so that you can place the jack stand under the front jacking point. Remember, you loosened the lugbolts in step 1, so now remove the lugbolts and both front wheels. |
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#9
By
larryn
on
03-18-2006, 05:46 PM
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Step 14
Remove the three nuts (13mm) that hold the top of the strut held to teh strut tower. Take note of the metal nipple that sticks up next to one of the nuts. It's the alignment nipple, adn you'll use it when re-assembling for alignment. You'll also notice that one of the nuts you have to use an open end wrench on, since it is partially obstructed by the strut tower brace. |
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#10
By
larryn
on
03-18-2006, 05:47 PM
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Step 15
You can push the assembly down with your foot, like you did on the rear, but it will not drop to the ground, making it more difficult. Normally, once those 3 nuts are removed, the whole shebang falls to the floor. Not so on the e90. So, grab those spring compressors (mine had 19mm bolts on them), and put them on opposite sides of the strut spring, with the bolt head on top. I could grab 3 coils on each side. Make sure when tightening, you tighten no more than 5 turns before doing the same to the other spring compressor. Eventually, you will have them as compressed as they will get. |
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#11
By
larryn
on
03-18-2006, 05:48 PM
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Step 16
You may need to unclip some of the wires for extra room for the brake rotor to swing down. Do this now. OK. Remember stepping on the brake rotor to make it swing down a little bit? Do the same now, but keep your hands on the strut/shock, and swing it out from under the fender. Make sure you don't scratch the fender, which would be easy to do. Keep an eye on the hoses/wires, and prop the jack under the brake rotor to keep it from putting too much strain on things. Step 17 Remove the plastic hat on top of the strut, that you can now get access to. Then, using a 19mm socket, loosen the nut that is underneath the plastic cap. Even though you compressed the spring all the way in step 15, you may get a tiny bit of pressure on the strut hat that gets released when teh nut comes loose. Take note of this! Mine just slightly jumped, only on one side, an nothing went flying, but if you did not completely tighten the 3 coils on each side in step 15, you could have more pressure being released. Remove the hat, swivel, and washer. You can now also remove the front spring! Make sure you don't rip the boot on the shock doing this though. Just ease the spring by the boot and you'll be ok. |
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#12
By
larryn
on
03-18-2006, 05:49 PM
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Step 18
Loosen the spring compressors on the old spring, using the same method as when tightening them.. no more than 5 turns on each side, and keep the pressure even. If you've looked at H&R front springs, you'll see they are pretty short. The stock ones are not short at all. They are about double the length, so it will take a while to take the pressure off of the old spring. However, once you've done that, grab a new front spring, make sure the writing is facing up, and start to compress that one. The front springs are marked with a (F). Do the same as on the factory spring. Grab 3 coils, opposite each other for each compressor, and have the bolt head facing up. Begin compressing that spring, using the 5 turns each side method, until you've tightened it as far as you can. Step 19 Place the new spring on the strut sticking out from underneath your front fender. Make sure you ease it over the shock boot, and if you pull the boot down, make sure you slide it back up onto the boot mount after getting the spring seated on the rubber mount. Now you can replace the top strut hat, washer, and swivel. If you've compressed the spring enough, you should have plenty of room to grab that nut and a 19mm socket and tighten it back down. Make sure you have the spring rightside up and seated properly. Once tight, replace the plastic cap. |
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#13
By
larryn
on
03-18-2006, 05:50 PM
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Step 20
Now you need to get that strut back under the fender, which is fairly easy, once you take out the jack you had under the brake rotor, and use you foot for downward pressure again. Once you have it under there, start unloosening the spring compressors (5 turns on each again). Since these springs are a lot shorter, it doesn't take too long to do. Take off the compressors,and slide that jack under the brake rotor again, applying upward pressure so that you are raising the strut up ito the strut tower. Don't jack it up too much, just enough to get close to the holes while still being able to swivel the hat. You'll see the nippple here and where it needs to align to. Raise the jack another pump or two until the strut hat bolts poke thru the 3 holes in the strut tower, as well as the alignment nipple is beginning to come through it's alignment hole. Tighten the 3 nuts up with a 13mm socket, and a wrench for teh one that's under the strut brace. |
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#14
By
larryn
on
03-18-2006, 05:51 PM
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Step 21
We are almost there! I had another beer at this point. I suggest you do the same. You now need to put that 19mm bolt back in place that has the brake line bracket on it. Also, put the 17mm nut back on the upper end link mount, and tighten both of those. Reclip any wires you unclipped during the install, and replace the headlight auto level sensor that you removed in step 13 Mount you wheel again and snug the lugbolts. Do the other side in the same manner, including the beer. Then put that wheel back on too. Step 22 Jack the car again to remove the jack stands and then lower it. TORQUE ALL LUGNUTS. While we are speaking of torquing bolts. Make sure you retighten all bolts with the smae amount of pressure as they fealt like when they ewre reomved. I did not have torque specs, but as they become available, I'll edit this DIY to incude them (and go back and torque the bolts). Check to make sure you removed all tools from the engine compartment before shutting the hood. Step 23 Take a quick jaunt down the driveway and back to settle the car. Then with great antcipation, put in park, or out of gear, parking brake.. LEAP from your car and behold it's lowered beauty. Wipe those tears from your eye that well up from the sheer joy you are encountering. Then grab a beer. |
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#15
By
larryn
on
03-18-2006, 05:55 PM
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By the way, those are my track tires/wheels. Yes, I know they are ugly and that my car is dirty.
 The wheels are only 16.5 lbs each, and the tires are: F: 255/40/17 R: 275/40/17 I may get another set of 275's for the front if I can do a few autox runs without rubbing. I may also be able to get a 10mm spacer for the rear, but that's really cutting it close. |
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#17
By
shadye90
on
03-18-2006, 07:04 PM
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Awesome DIY...question 4 u..I assume you already had the sport package on your car judging from the style 162's in your pics..if so how much lower did the H&R springs drop your car cuz I know the sport package springs already lower the car by 10mm? I think?...
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#18
By
larryn
on
03-18-2006, 07:10 PM
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I think it's about an inch lower. The tires are definitely more "tucked".
HRC, they are Kosei K1's. Unfortuantely, they stopped making them this year, even though they are extremely popular on the track. By the way, I lose about 15lbs. each corner (60lbs total) by putting those tires/wheels on, in lieu of the 162's and runflats. There is a huge difference in accelleration, which caused me issues last year at autocross with 255's in back. I would spin the tires all over the place. The 275's and the suspension work (hopefully) will keep me a bit more planted. |
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!
